Collaborations between watch brands and enthusiast communities often act as a bridge between heritage and modernity, but few execute this concept as effectively as the new Chronofixe Diver Gotham Watch Club edition. This timepiece represents a carefully considered fusion of French watchmaking legacy and the discerning tastes of a prominent New York-based collector group. It moves far beyond a simple co-branding exercise to become a watch that speaks to both history and the present-day aficionado, a tangible result of a partnership grounded in a mutual respect for horology.
The name Chronofixe carries with it a significant weight of history, originating in the mid-19th century. The manufacture was established in 1857 by François-Xavier Joubert in La Rasse, a location nestled in the Doubs gorges right on the Franco-Swiss border, an area steeped in watchmaking tradition. From its early days, Chronofixe demonstrated a penchant for technical innovation, eventually becoming the sole French company certified to produce highly specialized altimeter chronographs. This expertise in crafting precision instruments for aviation would come to define the brand's most celebrated chapter.
Courtesy of Chronofixe
That defining moment arrived in the early 1950s. The French Ministry of Defense put forth a stringent set of specifications for a new pilot's chronograph, a watch that needed to be exceptionally robust, highly legible, and utterly reliable for its Air Force personnel. Chronofixe rose to the occasion, developing the legendary "Type 20." These watches were not sold commercially at first but were issued as standard equipment to French pilots, remaining the property of the government. The Type 20's utilitarian perfection and historical importance have since made original examples into prized collector's items, cementing Chronofixe's reputation for building professional-grade tool watches.
On the other side of this collaboration is the Gotham Watch Club, an exclusive collective of watch enthusiasts based in New York City. The club is closely associated with the personality and platform known as WatchChris. Through his popular YouTube channel and online presence, WatchChris has cultivated a following by focusing on a specific horological philosophy: a hyper-focus on value, quality, and style. As an industry insider, his reviews and content champion watches that deliver exceptional specifications and design without demanding a prohibitive price tag, making the hobby more accessible to a wider audience. This partnership, therefore, is a logical extension of that ethos, bringing a tangible product to a community that values substance and thoughtful design.
Visually, the Chronofixe Diver Gotham Watch Club watch immediately presents as a classic, purpose-built dive watch with a strong vintage-inspired aesthetic. The timepiece is anchored by a stainless steel case that features a satisfying mix of brushed and polished surfaces, giving it a dynamic presence without being overly flashy. A unidirectional rotating bezel with a black insert frames the dial, providing the essential functionality for timing dives or other events. The overall impression is one of competence and understated confidence, a watch designed for utility but with an undeniable stylistic appeal that feels drawn from the golden age of underwater exploration.
Courtesy of Chronofixe
The case construction is a study in classic, wearable proportions. Fashioned from robust 316L stainless steel, it measures a modest 37.00 mm in diameter. This sizing is a deliberate and welcome nod to vintage pieces, offering a comfortable and versatile fit for a wide array of wrist sizes, a stark contrast to the oversized dimensions that have dominated the market for years. With a thickness of 12.80 mm, it maintains a substantial presence without feeling bulky, easily slipping under a shirt cuff. The 20mm lug width is a standard size, allowing for a plethora of aftermarket strap options, though the included strap is a perfect match for its character.
A dive watch is defined by its ability to withstand the pressures of the deep, and this model is appropriately specified with a water resistance rating of 20 ATM, equivalent to 200 meters. This level of protection ensures the watch is more than capable of handling recreational scuba diving, swimming, and any other aquatic activities, providing genuine peace of mind. Protecting the dial is a flat, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a premium feature at this price point that offers superior clarity and durability compared to lesser mineral or acrylic crystals, ensuring the face of the watch remains pristine through daily wear and tear.
Turning the watch over reveals a detail that firmly cements its identity as a special edition. Instead of a display window, it features a solid stainless steel case back, a practical choice that enhances structural integrity and water resistance. This solid canvas is used to showcase the collaboration's emblem: the "GOTHAM WATCH CLUB NEW YORK CITY" text is deeply engraved in a circular pattern, surrounding a stylized trefoil symbol at the center. This bold marking transforms the watch from a standard production model into a distinct and collectible piece, a badge of honor for club members and followers of the project.
Courtesy of Chronofixe
The dial is the functional and aesthetic heart of the watch, rendered in a deep, matte black finish. This choice is highly practical, as a matte surface minimizes reflections and glare, maximizing legibility in all lighting conditions—a critical feature for any tool watch. The dial is populated with large, clear Arabic numerals at the 12, 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 o'clock positions, interspersed with baton markers for the remaining hours. A subtle date window is neatly integrated at the 3 o'clock position, adding everyday practicality without disrupting the dial's symmetry.
All of the numerals, markers, and the metal hands are treated with a generous application of luminescent paint. The lume has a creamy, off-white hue in daylight, a deliberate design choice that evokes the "aged" look of vintage tritium lume from mid-century watches. This so-called "fauxtina" adds a layer of warmth and character to the dial, reinforcing the watch's retro appeal. When the lights go down, this material glows brightly, ensuring that the time is readable in low-light or underwater environments. The hands themselves are simple and effective, designed for instant recognition.
The movement powering the Chronofixe Diver is the TMI NH35. This automatic caliber, produced by a subsidiary of Seiko, is widely regarded in the industry as a true "workhorse." It is celebrated for its exceptional reliability, robustness, and ease of service. Beating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, it provides a smooth sweep of the central seconds hand and offers hacking (the second hand stops when the crown is pulled out) and hand-winding capabilities. The choice of the NH35 is a clear reflection of the WatchChris philosophy: it's a proven, dependable engine that delivers excellent performance and longevity without unnecessarily inflating the cost of the final product. It’s a smart choice that prioritizes function and trust.
Courtesy of Chronofixe
Complementing the watch's utilitarian ethos is the choice of an adjustable black Nato-style nylon strap. This type of strap is a favorite among military personnel and divers for its supreme practicality. Woven from durable nylon, it is comfortable, quick-drying, and incredibly secure. The single-pass design ensures that even if one of the watch's spring bars were to fail, the watch head would remain attached to the strap and the wrist. The strap is fitted with stainless steel hardware, including the buckle and keepers, matching the case material and completing the cohesive, tool-watch look.
When all these elements are considered together, the Chronofixe Diver Gotham Watch Club edition emerges as a thoughtfully executed timepiece. It successfully channels the historical spirit of Chronofixe's military and aviation instruments into the classic format of a skin diver. The design is not a direct copy of any single vintage model but rather a thoughtful amalgamation of classic cues: the modest case size, the simple and legible dial, the aged lume, and the functional bezel. It is a watch that feels both familiar and unique, a testament to a successful collaboration where the final product is greater than the sum of its parts.
This watch is clearly aimed at a discerning segment of the watch community. It will undoubtedly appeal to members of the Gotham Watch Club and fans of WatchChris, but its reach extends far beyond that. It is a perfect piece for someone beginning their journey into mechanical watches, offering a taste of heritage, a unique design, and rock-solid specifications from a brand with a genuine history. At the same time, it holds immense appeal for seasoned collectors who may own far more expensive timepieces but appreciate a well-made, affordable, and fun "grab-and-go" watch with a great backstory.
Courtesy of Chronofixe
The wearability of the 37mm case cannot be overstated. In a market often saturated with watches exceeding 42mm, this more restrained size is a significant feature. It allows the watch to sit comfortably on nearly any wrist, providing a wearing experience that is balanced and unobtrusive. This versatility means it is just as suitable for a weekend adventure as it is for daily office wear, making it a truly practical and enjoyable companion for its owner.
In terms of availability and value, the Chronofixe Diver Gotham Watch Club edition presents a compelling proposition. Offered as a limited edition, it has an inherent exclusivity that adds to its appeal for collectors. The retail price is set at €395.00, which represents remarkable value for a watch with these features. An automatic movement from a respected manufacturer, a sapphire crystal, 200 meters of water resistance, and a unique collaborative design make for a package that is highly competitive in the crowded microbrand and independent watch space. This special edition is a celebration of community, history, and the shared passion for a well-made mechanical watch.
Case: 316L stainless steel, round shape, 37.00 mm diameter, 12.80 mm thickness, 20mm lug width. Features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a solid case back with an engraved Gotham Watch Club logo. Water resistance is rated at 20 ATM.
Movement: TMI NH35 automatic movement. Features include hours, minutes, seconds, and date functions. The movement operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour.
Dial: Matte black with the Gotham Watch Club logo. Applied Arabic numerals and metal hands feature a luminescent coating for low-light visibility.
Strap: Adjustable black Nato nylon strap with stainless steel hardware.
Price: €395,00
Notes: This is a limited edition timepiece created in collaboration between the historic French brand Chronofixe and the New York-based enthusiast group, Gotham Watch Club.