Christopher Ward Twelve Titanium Non-Fume

Christopher Ward has expanded its well-received The Twelve collection with the introduction of new titanium models featuring non-fumé dials. This development signals a notable response to customer preferences and a willingness by the brand to revisit established design conventions within its own product lines. The launch introduces three distinct watches: the Glacier Blue, Arctic White, and Fjord Blue, all unified by their Grade 2 titanium construction and clean, uniformly colored dials.



Founded in 2004, Christopher Ward has carved a distinct niche in the watchmaking industry. Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, the British company disrupted traditional retail models by being the world’s first online-only premium watch brand. This direct-to-consumer approach allows them to offer Swiss-made mechanical timepieces at price points that are often more accessible than those of established luxury houses. The brand is also recognized for its commitment to horological innovation, a prime example being the development of Calibre SH21, the first commercially viable mechanical watch movement from a British watch brand in over half a century. This spirit of pushing boundaries and prioritizing customer value underpins their latest releases.



The Twelve collection, since its initial launch in 2023, quickly became a significant offering for Christopher Ward. These timepieces are characterized by their integrated bracelet design, a style that has seen a major resurgence in popularity. Integrated bracelet sports watches are sought after for their blend of robustness, visual appeal, and versatility, suitable for a wide range of occasions. The Twelve series draws inspiration from the design language often associated with the work of Gérald Genta, seen in elements like sharp case lines, exposed screw heads, textured dials, and distinctive bezels, reinterpreting these cues for a contemporary audience.



Initially, Christopher Ward established a clear design demarcation within The Twelve range: steel models featured monotone dials, while the titanium versions were distinguished by their graduated fumé dials, which darken towards the periphery. The new non-fumé titanium models represent a deliberate departure from this self-imposed rule. This change reflects the company's attentiveness to feedback from its collector base, many of whom expressed a desire for the lightweight properties of titanium combined with the crisp, even aesthetic of a non-graduated dial.



Jörg Bader, Christopher Ward's Director of Product, acknowledged this evolution in thought: "We initially felt the dial distinction gave each collection its own visual identity. But watches don’t live in collections - they live on customers’ wrists. After years of feedback asking for a flat-dial titanium model, it was time to break our own rules." This statement highlights a pragmatic, customer-centric approach to product development, valuing real-world usability and desire over rigid adherence to internal design philosophies.



The case of The Twelve (Ti) Non-Fumé measures 40mm in diameter, a versatile size suitable for a broad range of wrist profiles. Crafted from Grade 2 titanium, the case is notably lightweight, with a case weight of just 41 grams. This characteristic significantly enhances wearing comfort, especially when compared to stainless steel counterparts. The slimness of the watch is another key attribute, with a total case height of only 8.95mm, making it the thinnest automatic sports watch in Christopher Ward’s current collection and allowing it to sit unobtrusively on the wrist.



A defining feature of The Twelve is its dodecagonal (12-sided) bezel. This geometric element is not merely a simple flat polygon; it features a complex interplay of three distinct finishes: high polish, fine linear brushing, and sandblasting. These varied textures interact with light in multifaceted ways, creating a dynamic visual effect that shifts with the viewing angle. From certain perspectives, the facets of the bezel can appear like a series of low, smooth arches, lending a unique architectural quality to the watch head.



The dials of these new titanium models are central to their appeal. Moving away from the previous fumé effect, the Arctic White, Glacier Blue, and the newly introduced Fjord Blue dials present a consistent, uniform color across their entire surface. This provides a clean and crisp backdrop for the time display. Each dial retains the striking undulating pattern inspired by the Christopher Ward twin-flags logo. This intricate three-dimensional texture, composed of tiny pyramid-like structures, is designed to play with light from every angle, adding depth and visual interest without the need for a color gradient. Protecting the dial is a flat sapphire crystal, treated with an anti-reflective coating to minimize glare and enhance legibility.



The hands and indices have been thoughtfully designed to complement the overall aesthetic. They feature refined shapes with multiple light-reflecting surfaces, contributing to the watch's intricate visual character. For excellent low-light visibility, both the dial markers and the hands are filled with Grade X1 BL C1 Super-LumiNova®, ensuring that the time can be read easily in dim conditions. The careful reappraisal of these elements results in a dial that is both informative and visually engaging.



The integrated bracelet is a crucial component of The Twelve's design identity. Constructed from Grade 2 titanium to match the case, it features a seamless transition from the lugs. The bracelet exhibits meticulous finishing, with vertical brushing on the main surfaces of the links and polished chamfers that catch the light. It tapers elegantly from 25mm at the case connection to 16mm at the clasp, enhancing comfort and contributing to a refined profile. A hidden micro-adjustment system within the butterfly clasp offers practical sizing flexibility without disrupting the bracelet's sleek lines. Furthermore, the bracelet is equipped with Christopher Ward’s quick-release system, allowing for easy strap changes without the need for tools.



At the heart of The Twelve (Ti) Non-Fumé is the Sellita SW300-1 COSC automatic movement. This Swiss-made calibre, launched in 2008, is a well-respected engine in modern watchmaking, often considered an alternative to ETA's 2892-A2. Its COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certification is a testament to its precision and reliability, signifying that each movement has undergone rigorous testing to meet an accuracy tolerance of -4 to +6 seconds per day. This level of certification provides an assurance of high-quality timekeeping.



The 25-jewel Sellita SW300-1 operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), which contributes to a smooth sweep of the seconds hand. It offers a robust power reserve of 56 hours, meaning the watch can be taken off for a couple of days and still be running when picked up again. The movement also features an Elaboré ‘Colimaçoné’ finish, visible through the caseback, adding a touch of decorative refinement. An anti-shock system is incorporated to protect the delicate mechanics from the jolts of daily wear. The relative slimness of the SW300-1, at just 3.6mm thick (one millimetre less than the SW200-1 often found in other models), is a key factor in achieving the watch's slender 8.95mm overall case height.



Turning the watch over reveals a screw-down exhibition caseback, which allows a view of the Sellita SW300-1 and its custom rotor. The design of the caseback surround is noteworthy, featuring six large, exposed screw heads that hold it in place. This is a deliberate design choice, perhaps a subtle nod to iconic sports watch designs of the past, adding to the semi-industrial character of the timepiece. Each watch also bears a unique engraved serial number, a standard for Christopher Ward pieces.



The choice of Grade 2 titanium for both the case and bracelet dramatically transforms the wearing experience, especially for a watch in the integrated bracelet sports category, which can sometimes feel substantial on the wrist. Titanium is significantly lighter than steel – The Twelve Ti case weighs 41g, a full 24g less than its steel counterpart. This reduction in mass results in a watch that is exceptionally comfortable for all-day wear, almost making you forget it's there until you glance down to check the time. The material also offers other benefits, such as being hypoallergenic and having a high strength-to-weight ratio.



Christopher Ward's commitment to quality is evident in the finishing of The Twelve (Ti). Titanium is notoriously challenging to finish to a high standard due to its material properties. The brand has successfully applied multiple finishes – sandblasting, polishing, and fine linear brushing – across the case, bezel, and bracelet. The transitions between these different surfaces are crucial and have been executed with precision, reflecting a high level of attention to detail in the manufacturing process.



Practical considerations are also well addressed. The Twelve (Ti) Non-Fumé models boast a water resistance of 10 ATM, equivalent to 100 meters. This level of water resistance makes the watch suitable for swimming and other water-based activities, though not for deep-sea diving. The screw-down crown contributes to this water resistance and also protects the movement from dust and moisture ingress. These features solidify its credentials as a versatile sports watch.



The three dial color options each offer a distinct personality. The Arctic White dial provides a stark, highly legible, and clean look, emphasizing the geometric purity of the design. The Glacier Blue variant offers a lighter, cooler tone, reminiscent of icy landscapes, which pairs well with the cool grey of the titanium. The Fjord Blue, a new and exclusive color for these non-fumé titanium models, presents a deeper, more saturated blue, adding a richer option to the lineup. All three maintain the crisp aesthetic that the non-fumé treatment provides, enhancing the visual impact of the triple-finished, 12-sided bezel.



The design philosophy of The Twelve series channels what the brand describes as semi-industrial, quasi-nautical sensibilities. This is achieved through the combination of sharp creases, the distinctive bezel, the textured dial, and the integrated form. The introduction of the non-fumé titanium models adds another dimension to this philosophy, offering a version that highlights the material and form with a more direct and uniform dial presentation. It speaks to a modern interpretation of a classic sports watch concept.



This launch underscores Christopher Ward's responsiveness to its community. By actively listening to and acting upon years of consistent collector demand for a flat-dial titanium model, the brand reinforces its customer-focused reputation. It demonstrates a willingness to evolve its product lines based on practical feedback, even if it means revising initial design distinctions. This agility is a key strength for a brand that operates in a competitive market.



The Christopher Ward Twelve (Ti) Non-Fumé models are priced at $1,895 when paired with the full titanium integrated bracelet, and $1,450 when selected with a compatible rubber strap. These price points position the watches competitively within the market for Swiss-made, COSC-certified titanium sports watches. The watches are available directly from the Christopher Ward website, adhering to their established online retail model, which facilitates global accessibility for enthusiasts and collectors.



Case: Grade 2 titanium, 40mm diameter, 8.95mm height, 44.5mm lug-to-lug. Case weight 41g. Dodecagonal bezel with high polish, fine linear brushing, and sandblasting. Screw-down crown and exhibition caseback. Flat anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Water resistance 10 ATM (100m).

Movement: Sellita SW300-1 COSC automatic. 25 jewels, 56-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph (4Hz). COSC certified (-4/+6 sec p/day). Features Elaboré ‘Colimaçoné’ finish, anti-shock system, date complication, custom rotor.

Dial: Non-fumé options: Glacier Blue, Arctic White, Fjord Blue. Three-dimensional stamped undulating pattern. Top-brushed indexes with diamond polished facets. Hands and indexes filled with Super-LumiNova® Grade X1 BL C1.

Strap: Integrated Grade 2 titanium bracelet or rubber strap. Bracelet tapers 25mm to 16mm, features vertical brushing, polished chamfers, butterfly clasp with hidden micro-adjustment, screw links, and quick-release system.

Price: $1895 on titanium bracelet, $1450 on rubber strap.

Reference Number: Glacier Blue: C12-40ADC2-T00B1-B0; Arctic White: C12-40ADC2-T00W0-B0; Fjord Blue: C12-40ADC2-T00B2-B0. Model C12.

Notes: Combines lightweight titanium with a non-fumé dial finish in response to customer demand. Features a COSC-certified slim movement contributing to its 8.95mm case height, making it Christopher Ward's slimmest automatic sports watch. Unique 12-sided bezel and intricate dial texture.