Manufacture
Breguet has chosen to mark its 250th anniversary not merely by looking backward at a quarter-millennium of history, but by forcefully projecting its identity into the future of high horology. The release of the Expérimentale 1, bearing the reference E001BH/S9/5ZV, represents the inaugural chapter of a completely new lineage within the brand, appropriately titled the Expérimentale collection. This is not a subtle evolution of existing designs, nor is it a vintage reissue meant to placate traditionalists; rather, it is a statement of intent that marries the brand’s maritime heritage with aggressive research and development. The watch serves as a vessel for the brand's most advanced concepts, specifically showcasing a high-frequency 10 Hz tourbillon equipped with a constant-force magnetic escapement, a combination that pushes the boundaries of what mechanical timekeeping can achieve in terms of stability and precision.
To understand the gravity of this release, one must first consider the historical context from which it emerges. Abraham-Louis Breguet was not simply a watchmaker in the artisan sense; he was a scientist and a physicist who utilized mechanics to solve the problems of his era. Since the brand’s inception in 1775, the pursuit of precision has been the central dogma, leading to inventions that defined the industry, such as the natural escapement, the shock absorber, and the gong-spring. The Expérimentale 1 is positioned as the spiritual successor to this scientific approach. It revives the experimental spirit that led Breguet to file a patent for constant force in 1798 and the tourbillon in 1801, yet it executes these concepts with materials and physics that were unavailable to the founder. This new collection is designed to run parallel to the existing Marine, Classique, and Tradition lines, serving as a dedicated platform for innovations that will eventually trickle down into the broader catalogue.
Courtesy of Breguet
Visually, the Expérimentale 1 strikes an imposing figure, utilizing the established architecture of the Marine collection but stripping it of any classicism in favor of a technical, almost industrial aesthetic. The case is crafted from 18K Breguet gold, a material that offers a warm, rich hue that contrasts sharply with the predominantly blue and silver tones of the dial and movement components. Measuring 43.5 millimeters in diameter with a thickness of 13.3 millimeters, the case commands presence on the wrist without becoming unwieldy. The silhouette features the brand’s signature fluted caseband, but here it is executed with a double-stepped profile that adds a degree of structural complexity to the side view. The lugs are particularly noteworthy; they are hollowed-out and close-set, featuring satinated finishes and chamfered edges that catch the light, while the interior spaces of the lugs are inlaid with blue ALD-treated gold, creating a continuity of color that flows from the strap into the case itself.
The dial of the Expérimentale 1 is an exercise in depth and transparency, utilizing a sapphire crystal disc that allows for an unobstructed view of the movement’s architecture. The layout is a regulator configuration, a deliberate nod to the precision chronometers of the past where the hours, minutes, and seconds are separated to prevent the hands from obscuring one another. The hours are displayed on a sub-dial at the 6 o'clock position, framed by a chapter ring with Roman numerals that float above the baseplate. The minutes are indicated by a large, central open-tipped hand that sweeps across a peripheral track, while the running seconds are mounted directly onto the tourbillon axis at 12 o'clock. This vertical symmetry provides a balanced, harmonious look that anchors the technical complexity of the open-worked movement visible beneath the indicators.
The dominant visual feature, and the mechanical heart of the watch, is undoubtedly the large tourbillon assembly located at the 12 o'clock position. Unlike traditional tourbillons that are often tucked away or integrated subtly, this mechanism is exhibited with pride, occupying a significant portion of the upper dial. The tourbillon cage rotates once every minute and carries the small seconds hand, but its speed is what sets it apart visually and mechanically. Beating at a frequency of 10 Hz, or 72,000 vibrations per hour, the balance wheel moves with a frenetic energy that is visibly different from the leisurely oscillation of a standard 3 Hz or 4 Hz movement. This high speed is not merely for show; it acts as a stabilizing force, allowing the oscillator to recover from shocks and positional changes far more rapidly than a lower-frequency counterpart, thereby enhancing the watch’s chronometric performance in real-world wearing conditions.
The movement powering this machine is the manual-winding Caliber 7250, a mechanical engine that comprises 266 individual components and 37 jewels. The architecture of the movement bridges is a departure from the soft curves found in traditional Breguet calibers. Here, the solid gold bridges are cut with sharp, aggressive angles and finished with a satin-brushed surface texture that emphasizes the modernity of the piece. The edges are hand-finished and mirror-polished, providing a gleaming outline that defines the geometry of the mechanism against the dark backdrop. A striking feature of the movement is the use of blue atomic layer deposition (ALD) coating on various components, including the mainplate and the barrel springs. This deep, metallic blue is not only a reference to the Marine collection’s nautical themes but also serves to highlight the technical elements, creating a multi-layered visual experience where gold, steel, and blue interact in three dimensions.
Courtesy of Breguet
At the core of the Caliber 7250 lies the innovative constant-force magnetic escapement, a system that represents years of research into the control of magnetic fields within a watch movement. Traditionally, magnetism is the enemy of mechanical watches, causing hairsprings to stick and rates to drift. However, Breguet has harnessed magnetism to create an escapement that manages the energy flow from the barrels to the balance wheel. The system utilizes two escape wheels equipped with magnetic tracks and a pallet lever that interacts with them through magnetic fields rather than solely mechanical friction. This allows for a consistent impulse to be delivered to the balance wheel regardless of the torque remaining in the mainspring, solving the age-old problem of isochronism where a watch tends to run differently when fully wound versus when it is near the end of its power reserve.
The energy storage system of the Expérimentale 1 is equally impressive, featuring a patented twin-barrel arrangement. These barrels are coupled in series and are visible through the open-worked dial, positioned symmetrically at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. Each barrel contains a double spring separated by a sapphire spacer, allowing the movement to achieve a substantial power reserve of 72 hours despite the immense energy consumption required to drive a 10 Hz oscillator. The springs themselves are blue, a unique aesthetic choice that makes the energy source a visible part of the design. This double-sprung configuration ensures that the torque curve remains as flat as possible for as long as possible, working in tandem with the magnetic escapement to ensure that the amplitude of the balance remains stable throughout the entire running time of the watch.
The integration of the tourbillon with the high-frequency magnetic escapement creates a decoupling effect that is beneficial for precision. In a standard movement, the inertia of the gear train can influence the balance wheel, especially during shocks. By using magnetic fields to transmit the impulse, the balance is effectively isolated from the mechanical noise of the train. The tourbillon cage itself is crafted from Grade 5 titanium, chosen for its light weight and strength, keeping the total mass of the cage to just 0.60 grams. This lightness is critical for a mechanism that must start, stop, and rotate at high speeds with minimal energy loss. The balance spring is made from flat silicon, a material that is impervious to magnetic interference and temperature fluctuations, further insulating the timekeeping organ from environmental variables.
The aesthetic execution of the dial elements reinforces the "Scientific" nature of the watch. The minute track is a broad ring of blue ALD-treated metal that circles the periphery, with the indices and numerals treated with Super-LumiNova for legibility in low light. The hands are gold, open-worked, and also luminescent, ensuring that despite the skeletonized background, the time remains easily readable. A subtle detail is the "Expérimentale 1" cartouche located above the tourbillon, crowning the assembly. The use of sapphire for the dial itself, supported by gold pillars, creates a sense of airiness, allowing the viewer to look past the numbers and see the grinding gears, the coiled springs, and the beating heart of the machine. The sapphire is treated with anti-reflective coatings on both sides, making the crystal almost disappear and enhancing the sensation that one can reach in and touch the mechanism.
Courtesy of Breguet
The caseback of the Expérimentale 1 offers another view of the Caliber 7250, which is just as meticulously finished on the reverse side. A large sapphire crystal reveals the backside of the mainplate and the gear train, surrounded by a ring engraved with the 250th-anniversary inscription. The bridges on the back continue the angular, satin-brushed gold theme, reinforcing the structural integrity of the movement. The watch is water-resistant to 10 bars, or 100 meters, a specification that certifies its utility as a true sports watch within the Marine line. This is not a delicate dress watch to be hidden under a cuff; it is a robust machine designed to be worn and used, capable of withstanding the rigors of daily life while maintaining chronometer-grade accuracy.
Speaking of accuracy, the Expérimentale 1 carries a specific certification that underscores its capabilities. It is certified by the Breguet hallmark in the "Scientific" category. This internal standard guarantees a precision rate of -1 to +1 second per day, a tolerance that is significantly tighter than the standard COSC certification. This level of performance is the direct result of the high-frequency 10 Hz beat rate and the constant-force mechanism. It is a testament to the brand's refusal to compromise on the fundamental purpose of a watch: to tell time as accurately as possible. The distinctiveness of this certification highlights that the innovations within the watch are not merely theoretical exercises but practical improvements to the art of timekeeping.
The wearability of the piece is addressed through its integration with the strap. The watch is fitted with a blue rubber strap that complements the blue accents on the dial and case. The strap connects to the case via the central lugs, utilizing a new tool-free interchangeability system that allows the owner to swap straps without visiting a boutique. The buckle is an 18K Breguet gold pin buckle, designed to echo the shape of the lugs. The use of rubber on a watch of this complexity and price point serves to ground it in the realm of active luxury, acknowledging that the modern collector desires a timepiece that is both mechanically superior and physically resilient.
The historical lineage of the regulator display used in the Expérimentale 1 can be traced back to the Reference 3448 pocket marine chronometer and the Reference 1747 wristwatch. The Reference 1747 was created for the brand’s 250th anniversary of the founder’s birth in 1997, and it was the first modern Breguet wristwatch to feature a regulator dial. By adopting this layout for the Expérimentale 1, the brand draws a clear line of succession, connecting the current anniversary with previous milestones. It is a respectful nod to the past, acknowledging that the layout was originally chosen by A.-L. Breguet for its superior legibility when setting time against a reference standard. In the modern context, it serves to declutter the dial and give prominence to the running seconds on the tourbillon, which is the star of the show.
Courtesy of Breguet
From a materials standpoint, the watch is a study in contrasts. The warmth of the 18K Breguet gold case softens the stark, high-tech appearance of the grey titanium and blue ALD components. Breguet gold is a specific alloy used by the manufacture, known for its distinct color which sits somewhere between rose and yellow gold, offering a unique luster. The combination of this traditional precious metal with modern surface treatments like ALD—which is used in the aerospace and semiconductor industries—encapsulates the dual nature of the watch. It is an artifact that straddles the line between 18th-century craftsmanship and 21st-century materials science.
The Expérimentale 1 also places a heavy emphasis on shock resistance, a factor often overlooked in high-complication horology. The 10 Hz frequency plays a crucial role here. When a watch is subjected to an impact, the balance wheel is disturbed from its regular rhythm. A faster oscillating balance has higher inertia and returns to its stable amplitude much faster than a slower one. This means that for an active user, the Expérimentale 1 will theoretically keep better time over the course of a day filled with arm movements and minor impacts than a standard tourbillon. This focus on "vibro-mechanics" and acoustics is part of the broader research agenda of the Expérimentale program, which seeks to understand how watches interact with the physical world.
The crown of the watch is another element where design meets function. It is non-screwed, yet the watch maintains a 100-meter water resistance, a feat of engineering in itself. The crown features a blue ALD-treated sandblasted gold inlay with the Breguet "B" logo, matching the aesthetic of the lugs. Its size and knurling are designed for easy manipulation, which is essential for a manual-wind watch that requires interaction from the user to keep the 72-hour power reserve topped up. The tactile experience of winding the watch, feeling the tension of the four mainsprings, connects the wearer physically to the mechanics inside.
As the first entrant in the Expérimentale line, this timepiece sets a high bar for future releases. It suggests that Breguet is moving toward a future where the catalog is bifurcated between the strictly traditional and the radically experimental. The "Scientific" hallmark and the focus on magnetic regulation imply that future developments may see further integration of non-traditional materials and forces to solve horological problems. The Expérimentale 1 acts as a laboratory on the wrist, a proof of concept that demonstrates that the oldest techniques can still be improved upon with fresh thinking.
Courtesy of Breguet
For the collector, the visual experience of the watch is dynamic. As the wrist moves, the light plays off the different finishes—the matte blue, the brushed gold, the polished steel of the screws. The constant rotation of the tourbillon at 12 o'clock provides a focal point that draws the eye, while the rapid flutter of the 10 Hz balance creates a sense of urgency and life. It is a watch that rewards close inspection, revealing details like the secret signature on the sapphire dial or the intricate meshing of the keyless works only when viewed under magnification or specific lighting angles.
In terms of acquisition, the Breguet Expérimentale 1 is positioned at the very apex of the brand’s offering. It is priced at CHF 320,000, a figure that reflects the immense amount of research, the precious materials, and the complexity of the manufacturing process involved. As a limited edition novelty and the debut of a new collection, availability will be restricted to a very exclusive circle of clients. It is a timepiece for the connoisseur who appreciates the intersection of history and physics, offering a tangible connection to the spirit of Abraham-Louis Breguet—not just as a name on a dial, but as an unrelenting innovator whose legacy is still propelling the mechanics of time forward.
Case: 18K Breguet gold construction with a round shape, measuring 43.5mm in width and 13.3mm in thickness. Features a double-stepped fluted caseband, hollowed-out close-set lugs with blue ALD-treated gold inlays, and a non-screwed crown. Equipped with a sapphire caseback and rated for 10 bars (100 meters) of water resistance with a 22mm lug width.
Movement: Manual winding Caliber 7250 measuring 33.8mm wide and 6.3mm thick with 266 components and 37 jewels. Operates at a high frequency of 10.00 Hz (72,000 vph) with a 72-hour power reserve provided by two series-coupled barrels. Features a flat silicon balance spring, Breguet balance, and a constant-force magnetic escapement. Certified by the Breguet hallmark in the Scientific category.
Dial: Sapphire dial glare-proofed on both sides featuring a regulator-type display with hours at 6 o'clock, offset minutes, and seconds on the tourbillon. Indices and open-tipped hands are enhanced with Super-LumiNova, with a blue ALD-treated titanium seconds hand. Includes gold applied chapter and seconds rings.
Strap: Blue rubber strap featuring a tool-free interchangeability system. Secured by an 18K Breguet gold Ardillon buckle.
Price: CHF 320,000
Reference Number: E001BH/S9/5ZV
Notes: This Limited Edition Novelty serves as the first chapter in the brand’s new exploratory Expérimentale R&D line. It features the very first high-frequency (10 Hz) tourbillon equipped with a magnetic escapement that delivers constant force to the balance.