Breguet embarks on a significant chapter of its 250th anniversary celebrations with the introduction of the Type XX Chronographe 2075. Unveiled in New York, these two new timepieces are a direct homage to an iconic 1955 civilian model, encapsulating the manufacture's enduring spirit of innovation and its profound respect for a rich aeronautical and horological past. The launch follows commemorative events in Paris and Shanghai, further underscoring Breguet's global heritage and its continued relevance in the contemporary watchmaking landscape. These chronographs are not merely instruments for measuring time; they are a narrative of human ingenuity, exploration, and the remarkable intersection of precision mechanics and aviation.
The lineage of
Breguet is distinguished by a relentless pursuit of invention. Abraham-Louis Breguet, the founder, revolutionized watchmaking with numerous groundbreaking creations that fundamentally altered the course of horology. His inventive spirit was inherited by subsequent generations, notably his great-great-grandson, Louis Breguet. An engineer with a pioneering vision, Louis Breguet turned his attention to the nascent field of aviation, establishing his own aircraft manufacturing company. His contributions were pivotal, developing advanced biplane and monoplane designs, including the famed Breguet 19, an aircraft celebrated for its performance in long-distance reconnaissance and bombing missions, thereby opening new frontiers in the sky much like his ancestor had done for timekeeping.
Courtesy of Breguet
A testament to this era of aerial adventure is the historic non-stop flight from Paris to New York accomplished by Dieudonné Costes and Maurice Bellonte. Between September 1st and 2nd, 1930, these aviators traversed the Atlantic in just over 37 hours. Their aircraft, a specially adapted Breguet 19TR Super Bidon, was distinctively marked with a large white question mark on its fuselage. This symbol reflected the considerable public and expert skepticism surrounding the feasibility of an east-to-west transatlantic flight, a journey made significantly more challenging by prevailing headwinds compared to Charles Lindbergh's 1927 west-to-east crossing. The success of this "questionable" aircraft became a landmark achievement, celebrated by the new Type XX Chronographe 2075.
The genesis of the Type XX series dates to the early 1950s when the French Air Force issued a tender for a robust and precise chronograph wristwatch for its pilots, codenamed "Type 20." Breguet was among the manufacturers selected to supply these critical instruments. This led to the creation of military versions – the Type 20 for the Air Force and the Type XX for the Aéronavale (Naval Aviation) – as well as numerous Type XX iterations designed for the civilian market. These watches quickly became indispensable tools for aviators. Building upon this storied past, Breguet reintroduced the Type XX line into its contemporary collections, with the fourth generation unveiled in 2023. The new reference 2075 models honor this legacy, specifically drawing inspiration from a rare gold civilian model produced in 1955.
As part of its 250th anniversary, Breguet presents the Type XX Chronographe reference 2075 in two distinct yet related versions. Both are crafted in an exclusive Breguet gold alloy, a unique blend offering warm, blond highlights. These models are thoughtfully designed to reflect the aesthetic and technical codes of their mid-century predecessor, particularly the historic timepiece bearing the serial number 1780. One version features a striking black dial, while the other, a limited edition, showcases a sophisticated silver dial. According to Gregory Kissling, CEO of Breguet, "These new Type XX timepieces, with their smaller diameter and hand-wound movement, venerate the design codes of the original models," aiming to connect with purists and connoisseurs who appreciate a direct lineage to the 1950s classics.
The first of these new chronographs presents a compelling visual character with its black dial. Crafted from anodized aluminum, the dial surface is a deep, matte black, providing a strong contrast for the indications. The Arabic numerals are rendered in a beige hue, as are the fillings for the Breguet gold hour and minute hands, all of which feature a green emission luminescent paint for readability in low-light conditions. The chronograph hand, also plated in Breguet gold, shares this beige luminescent treatment. At 3 o'clock, a 15-minute counter is clearly displayed, balanced by a small seconds sub-dial at 9 o'clock. The applied Breguet name, executed in Breguet gold, sits prominently below the 12 o'clock position, affirming the watch's pedigree.
Courtesy of Breguet
The second version of the Type XX Chronographe 2075 offers a different but equally refined aesthetic with its solid silver dial. This model, produced in a limited series of 250 pieces, features a vertically brushed finish on its 925 silver surface, creating a subtle play of light and texture. Applied Arabic numerals and hour markers, fashioned from Breguet gold, lend a distinguished air. The hour and minute hands mirror those of its black-dialed counterpart in Breguet gold with beige luminescent paint. However, the chronograph hand and the hand for the 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock are rendered in blued steel, offering a classic contrast against the silvery backdrop. This version also incorporates a tachymeter scale on the dial's periphery, enhancing its functionality for speed measurement.
The case for both Type XX Chronographe 2075 models is meticulously crafted from Breguet gold, an exclusive 18K alloy developed by the manufacture, which incorporates silver, copper, and palladium to achieve its characteristic blond radiance. This alloy was first introduced with the Classique Souscription 2025 watch. The case diameter is a historically accurate 38.3 mm, with a thickness of 13.2 mm, dimensions that echo the 1955 timepiece that served as its inspiration. A satin-finished case middle provides a subtle contrast to polished elements. The slim, bi-directional rotating bezel is a key feature, with numerals picked out in black for the black-dialed version and in blue for the silver-dialed iteration. The fluted crown, a signature Breguet detail, is proudly embossed with the letter "B."
Delving deeper into the dial of the black version, the choice of aluminum is a deliberate nod to Louis Breguet’s pioneering use of Duralumin (an alloy containing 95% aluminum) in aircraft construction. A discreet "Al" marking between 7 and 8 o’clock signifies this material choice, a first for Breguet's collections. The deep black hue is achieved through anodization, an electrochemical process that creates a thickened oxide layer, enhancing protection against corrosion and wear. Breguet employs cutting-edge deep black anodizing with high mechanical resistance, a technology also utilized in the aerospace industry, ensuring both enhanced legibility and remarkable durability.
The silver-dialed model pays tribute to the original N°1780 timepiece as it was first produced, with a dial made of solid silver. The vertically brushed finish imparts an understated yet sophisticated brilliance. A subtle "Ag925" marking is nestled between the 7 and 8 o’clock positions, a discreet confirmation of the precious metal beneath. The presence of the tachymeter scale adds a layer of functionality directly linked to the chronograph's historical use in calculating speed over a known distance, a feature often appreciated by enthusiasts of pilot's watches. Both dials feature the exquisitely fine and delicate applied Breguet name in Breguet gold, a testament to the brand's attention to detail.
Courtesy of Breguet
The hands and numerals on both versions are designed for clarity and recall the functional aesthetics of vintage pilot chronographs. The primary hour and minute hands, crafted from 18K Breguet gold, are filled with beige Super-LumiNova that emits a green glow, ensuring time can be read easily under various lighting conditions. The Arabic numerals on the black dial are fully luminescent, while the silver dial features applied gold numerals and markers which, combined with the luminescent hands, offer excellent visibility. The chronograph hands are also treated with luminescence, enhancing the watch’s utility as a precise timing instrument.
At the heart of these new Type XX models beat manually wound movements, variations of the high-performance Calibre 728 introduced by Breguet in 2023. These calibres, the 7279 for the black-dialed version and the 7278 for the silver-dialed version, are gilded in Breguet gold and prominently feature the flyback function. This complication, highly valued by pilots, allows the chronograph to be reset to zero and instantly restarted with a single press of the pusher located at 4 o’clock, a significant time-saver compared to standard chronographs requiring three separate actions (stop, reset, restart). This function was requested by aviation authorities in the mid-20th century and has been a staple of Type XX chronographs since 1954.
The Calibre 7279, powering the black-dialed Type XX Chronographe 2075, is meticulously engineered with 258 components and 28 jewels. It operates at a high frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour), contributing to its precision, and offers a substantial 60-hour power reserve from a single barrel. This movement features a 15-minute counter at the 3 o'clock position. Technical highlights include a flat silicon hairspring and an inverted anchor with silicon horns, materials known for their stability, anti-magnetic properties, and resistance to wear, ensuring long-term reliability and performance. The movement measures 32.2 mm in diameter (14.5 lines) and 6 mm in thickness.
Courtesy of Breguet
Similarly, the Calibre 7278 drives the limited-edition silver-dialed model. It shares the same high-frequency 5 Hz operation, 60-hour power reserve, silicon hairspring, and inverted silicon anchor as its counterpart. Comprising 257 components and 28 jewels, its primary distinction lies in the chronograph’s 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, catering to a different preference in elapsed time display. Both movements are numbered and signed by Breguet, underscoring their exclusivity and the craftsmanship invested in their creation. The choice of manual winding is a deliberate one, appealing to those who appreciate the tactile engagement and traditional mechanics of winding their timepiece.
A significant element of artistry is revealed through the sapphire crystal case back of both models. An intricate hand-engraving, executed in Breguet’s workshops, depicts the Breguet 19 aircraft in flight. The engraving also meticulously traces the route of the historic 1930 Paris to New York flight, with the frosted finishing of the European and North American landmasses contrasting beautifully against the smooth representation of the Atlantic Ocean. The case back crystal is also engraved with "BREGUET 250 YEARS" and features an internal anti-reflective coating to enhance the view of this miniature masterpiece. This detailed artwork serves as a permanent tribute to the daring spirit of early aviators and Breguet's role in their endeavors.
Complementing the refined cases and intricate dials, both Type XX Chronographe 2075 models are fitted with interchangeable leather straps. The version with the black dial comes with a gradient black calfskin strap, while the silver-dialed model is paired with a gradient blue calfskin strap. These straps are secured with an 18K Breguet gold pin buckle, ensuring both comfort and security on the wrist. The estimated weight of Breguet gold in each watch is 53 grams, providing a substantial yet wearable presence. The interchangeability of the straps offers versatility, allowing owners to adapt the watch's appearance to different occasions.
The connection between Montres Breguet and the world of aviation is profound and multifaceted. As Emmanuel Breguet, Head of Patrimony, explains, the House has always been attentive to the needs of the aviation world, a natural extension of its tradition of supporting major technical advancements, much like it did for maritime navigation. The involvement of Louis Breguet, the aircraft manufacturer and direct descendant of A.-L. Breguet, undoubtedly played a crucial role in sensitizing the watchmaking company to the specific requirements of air navigation, fostering a fruitful collaboration between these two pioneering fields.
Courtesy of Breguet
Louis Charles Breguet's aviation company, Breguet Aviation, founded in 1911, left an indelible mark on French and international aeronautical history. From the early experimental gyroplane in 1907, capable of lifting off with a passenger, to iconic aircraft like the Breguet XIV during World War I, and later innovations such as the Breguet Deux-Ponts and the Breguet 941, the company was at the forefront of aircraft development for both military and civilian purposes. Louis Breguet was also instrumental in the creation of Air France. In 1971, Breguet Aviation merged with Dassault, eventually becoming Dassault Aviation in 1990. Though the Breguet name in aviation was subsumed, its innovative legacy continues within the French aerospace industry. The historic Breguet XIX aircraft that made the famed transatlantic flight is preserved and displayed at the Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace at Le Bourget, Paris.
The Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 with the black anodized aluminum dial (reference 2075BH/99/398) is priced at $43,500 USD. The limited-edition Type XX Chronographe 2075 with the solid silver dial (reference 2075BH/G9/398), restricted to 250 pieces numbered and hand-engraved on the case back, is priced at $45,200 USD. Both watches come with a 5-year international sales guarantee and are presented in a special red leather box, individually numbered and inspired by the red Breguet Moroccan leather cases of the period, fittingly commemorating the manufacture's 250th anniversary. These new chronographs stand as a vibrant continuation of Breguet’s storied journey through time and sky.
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075BH/99/398 (Black Dial)Case: 18K Breguet gold, 38.3 mm diameter, 13.2 mm thick. Satin-finished case middle, front sapphire crystal with double-sided anti-reflective coating. Back sapphire crystal engraved “BREGUET 250 YEARS” with internal anti-reflective coating. Water resistance 5 bar (50 m).
Movement: Calibre 7279, manual winding. Numbered and signed Breguet. 258 components, 28 jewels. 32.2 mm diameter, 6 mm thick. Frequency 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour). Flat, silicon hairspring, inverted anchor with silicon horns, single barrel. 60-hour power reserve. Hand engraving of Breguet 19 aircraft, route and coasts on movement back. Flyback chronograph.
Dial: Black anodized aluminium. Arabic numerals, hour track, and 3 o'clock counter in beige luminescent paint (green emission). Hour and minute hands in 18K Breguet gold with beige luminescent paint. 18K Breguet gold-plated chronograph hand with beige luminescent paint. Applied Breguet name in 18K Breguet gold. 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock with straight 18K Breguet gold hand. Discreet "Al" marking between 7 and 8 o'clock.
Strap: Interchangeable, gradient black calfskin. 18K Breguet gold pin buckle.
Price: $43,500 USD
Reference Number: 2075BH/99/398
Notes: Special Edition celebrating Breguet's 250th anniversary. The black dial is crafted from anodized aluminium, a first in Breguet's collections. Presented in a red leather, individually numbered box inspired by period cases.
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075BH/G9/398 (Silver Dial - Limited Edition)Case: 18K Breguet gold, 38.3 mm diameter, 13.2 mm thick. Satin-finished case middle, front sapphire crystal with double-sided anti-reflective coating. Back sapphire crystal engraved “BREGUET 250 YEARS” with internal anti-reflective coating. Water resistance 5 bar (50 m). Case back hand-engraved with limited series number (e.g., 1/250).
Movement: Calibre 7278, manual winding. Numbered and signed Breguet. 257 components, 28 jewels. 32.2 mm diameter, 6 mm thick. Frequency 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour). Silicon flat spiral, inverted anchor with silicon horns, single barrel. 60-hour power reserve. Hand engraving of Breguet 19 aircraft, route and coasts on movement back. Flyback chronograph.
Dial: Silver 925, vertically brushed finish. Applied Arabic numerals and hour markers in 18K Breguet gold. Hour and minute hands in 18K Breguet gold with beige luminescent paint (green emission). Chronograph hand in blued steel with beige luminescent paint. Applied Breguet name in 18K Breguet gold. 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock with straight blued steel hand, small seconds at 9 o’clock with straight blued steel hand. Tachymetric scale. Subtle "Ag925" marking between 7 and 8 o'clock.
Strap: Interchangeable, gradient blue calfskin. 18K Breguet gold pin buckle.
Price: $45,200 USD
Reference Number: 2075BH/G9/398
Notes: Limited edition of 250 pieces for Breguet's 250th anniversary. Features a solid 925 silver dial. Presented in a Special Edition 250th red leather, individually numbered box.