• Biver Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series a Grand Complication in Disguise
  • Biver Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series

    A Grand Complication in Disguise

    Hourstriker Staff
    Words by: Hourstriker Staff
    June 26, 2025
  • In a bold move that redefines the concept of a grand complication, the house of Biver has introduced the Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series. This new pair of timepieces, presented in both a striking two-tone and a sleek all-titanium execution, takes the brand’s foundational masterpiece and veils its mechanical complexity behind a facade of refined, vintage-inspired understatement. It is a watch that whispers its secrets rather than shouting them, reserving its most profound marvels for the eyes and ears of its owner alone.

    The Biver name carries with it a weight of horological history that is nearly unparalleled. Jean-Claude Biver, a titan of the industry for half a century, is a figure synonymous with the revival and meteoric success of some of Switzerland's most revered watch brands. His decision to launch a new, eponymous brand in 2023 alongside his son, Pierre, was not merely a final chapter but a bold new thesis on the future of high-end watchmaking. Free from the typical corporate structures, they assembled what can only be described as a dream team of artisans and specialists, each a master of their craft, with a singular goal: to create uncompromising timepieces that blend historical reverence with a forward-thinking vision.

    Courtesy of Biver
    Courtesy of Biver


    This philosophy, which they term "neoclassical watchmaking," is not about recreating the past but about drawing inspiration from its enduring principles to create something entirely new. It's a dialogue between eras, a fusion of time-honored techniques with contemporary materials and design sensibilities. The brand's inaugural creation, the Carillon Tourbillon, was a testament to this ethos, a complex masterpiece featuring a tourbillon, a minute repeater, and a micro-rotor. It laid the groundwork for the brand's identity, and now, with the Signature Series, that identity continues to evolve in fascinating and unexpected ways.

    The original Carillon Tourbillon, launched in March 2023, was a showcase of mechanical artistry. Subsequent iterations explored diverse aesthetic paths, from dials crafted from hard stones to those featuring intricate engravings and open-worked designs that celebrated the intricate dance of the Calibre JCB.001-B within. A constant across these variations was the prominent display of the tourbillon at the six o'clock position, with its distinctive cage and bridge serving as a focal point. The new Signature Series marks a deliberate and dramatic departure from this tradition.

    With these latest references, Biver makes the audacious choice to conceal the complications entirely. The tourbillon, the minute repeater's gongs and hammers—all are hidden behind a solid, layered dial. "Our first watch, developed more than two years ago, was the Carillon Tourbillon. It represents not only one of the six masterpieces of the art of watchmaking, but certainly the most complex of them,” explains co-founder Jean-Claude Biver. He continues, “This is a new expression of that complication that perfectly embodies Biver watchmaking as our brand continues to grow and evolve.” It's a move that speaks to a mature confidence, a belief that true luxury doesn't always need to be on display.

    Courtesy of Biver
    Courtesy of Biver


    Visually, the watches are a study in texture and depth. The first of the pair, the Signature Series Two-Tone, presents a captivating blend of modern and classic materials. The case combines the warm, rich hue of 18k 5N rose gold with the cool, technical gray of titanium. This dual-material approach extends to the intricate bracelet, creating a visual rhythm that is both dynamic and cohesive. The dial itself is a multi-layered construction of titanium and 18k gold, featuring a central circular section in a soft gold tone, surrounded by a contrasting silver-colored outer ring. This design creates a "sector dial" feel, a nod to classic watch designs of the mid-20th century.

    The second model, the Signature Series Titanium, offers a more contemporary, monochromatic aesthetic. The case and bracelet are crafted entirely from lightweight titanium, giving the watch a focused, almost futuristic presence. The dial echoes this purity, rendered in shades of titanium and 18k white gold. Its clean, silvery appearance emphasizes the architectural qualities of the design, from the subtle textures of the surface to the sharp, precise application of its elements. For this model, the focus is on the interplay of light across different finishes, creating a look that is both understated and technically sophisticated.

    Both timepieces share crucial design elements that tie them to the Biver DNA. The hands, crafted from 18k white gold, are faceted and feature a satin finish, hand-beveled with four interior angles—a detail that reveals the immense level of manual craftsmanship involved. The applied hour markers, also in 18k white gold, are substantial and expertly finished, providing excellent legibility. Encircling the dial is an applied white gold chemin de fer, or railway track, which adds another layer of depth and serves as a classic horological grace note, framing the dial with precision.

    Courtesy of Biver
    Courtesy of Biver


    The decision to hide the tourbillon transforms the very nature of the watch. It becomes an object of personal discovery, a piece of "stealth wealth" for the true connoisseur. The only external clue to the mechanical symphony within is the minute repeater slide discreetly integrated into the left side of the case. As Biver CEO James Marks notes, "Visually, the watch feels smaller and more classical in its architecture, appealing to collectors who appreciate the stealth nature of this grand complication. It’s a very personal watch.” The full pleasure of its chiming function and the hypnotic rotation of its tourbillon is reserved solely for the wearer and those they choose to share it with.

    The case architecture itself is a work of art, measuring 42mm in diameter and 13.7mm in thickness. These are modern proportions, yet the clever design and integration with the bracelet allow it to wear comfortably. The case is water-resistant to 50 meters (5 ATM), a practical feature not always found on such complex timepieces, ensuring a degree of robustness for daily wear. Sapphire crystals with an inner anti-reflective coating are used for both the front and the display caseback, providing a clear, unobstructed view when one chooses to admire the movement from the rear.

    A key element of the watch's design and comfort is its bespoke bracelet. The links are faceted and asymmetrical, a signature Biver design that integrates flawlessly with the complex lines of the case and lugs. This is not a standard, off-the-shelf bracelet; it is an integral part of the overall aesthetic. For the Signature Series, the bracelet is rendered in either full titanium or the combination of titanium and 18k rose gold, perfectly matching its corresponding case.

    Enhancing the practicality of this exquisite bracelet is a new easy link system. This thoughtful addition allows for a seamless 4mm adjustment without the need for tools, providing enhanced comfort as the wrist expands or contracts throughout the day. The two-tone model is fitted with a rose gold deployant buckle, while the titanium version features a matching titanium clasp, ensuring every detail is consistent with the watch's overall theme.

    Courtesy of Biver
    Courtesy of Biver


    At the heart of these watches beats the Calibre JCB.001-B. This is the engine that powers the magic, a movement composed of 374 individual components, each meticulously hand-decorated to the highest standards of haute horlogerie. The movement measures 34mm in diameter and a relatively slim 7.1mm in thickness, a feat of micro-engineering given its complexity. It operates at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and offers a generous power reserve of 72 hours.

    The movement boasts three major complications. The first is the 60-second tourbillon, a rotating cage that houses the escapement and balance wheel to average out and negate the effects of gravity on the watch's precision. Though hidden from the dial side, its beautiful execution can be admired through the sapphire caseback. The second is the automatic winding system, driven by a bi-directional platinum micro-rotor. The use of platinum, a dense metal, ensures efficient winding with even the slightest movement of the wrist, while its small size prevents it from obscuring the view of the magnificent movement architecture.

    The final, and arguably most captivating, complication is the Carillon Minute Repeater. Unlike a standard minute repeater which uses two hammers and two gongs to chime the hours, quarters, and minutes, a carillon utilizes three. This allows for a more complex and melodious three-note chime for the quarter-hours, adding a significant layer of acoustic richness and mechanical complexity. The sound produced by the repeater is a critical focus for Biver, with the choice of titanium for the cases being partially driven by the material's excellent acoustic properties, ensuring a clear and powerful chime.

    To complete the ownership experience, Biver offers a pair of matching cufflinks for each of the Signature Series models. These are not mere afterthoughts but carefully designed extensions of the brand's aesthetic. They feature hand-brushed gold inlays (18k 5N rose gold or 18k white gold) framed by a concave bezel, directly referencing the finishing and architecture of the watches themselves. A signed swivel back ensures they are both secure and easy to wear, offering a subtle yet distinct way to engage with the Biver design language.

    Courtesy of Biver
    Courtesy of Biver


    The Biver Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series represents a confident and mature step for the young brand. It is a watch that understands the difference between being seen and being appreciated. It is a testament to the idea that the greatest complexities can be presented with the simplest face, and that the ultimate luxury is a secret shared only between the timepiece and its owner.

    The Biver Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series Two-Tone and Signature Series Titanium are both priced at 475,000 Swiss Francs, exclusive of local taxes and duties. They are available for purchase immediately through Biver’s official online boutique, as well as select global retail partners and the exclusive Biver Lounge in Hong Kong. In the United States the watch is available at Material Good. This release further cements the brand's position at the pinnacle of modern watchmaking, offering a deeply personal and mechanically profound experience for the discerning collector.

    Biver Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series Two-Tone

    Case: Material: Titanium & 18k Rose Gold; Diameter: 42mm; Thickness: 13.7mm; Lug Width: 21.3mm; Crystal: Sapphire with inner anti-reflective coating; Caseback: Display with sapphire crystal; Water Resistance: 50 meters / 5 ATM.

    Movement: Calibre JCB-001-B; Winding: Automatic via bi-directional platinum micro-rotor; Power Reserve: 72 hours; Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph); Jewels: 44; Total Components: 374; Functions: Hours, Minutes, Carillon Minute Repeater, 60-second Tourbillon.

    Dial: Material: Titanium and 18k gold; Markers: Applied 18k white gold; Hands: 18k white gold, satin-finished and hand-beveled; Details: Applied white gold chemin de fer.

    Strap: Material: Two-Tone titanium & 18k rose gold bracelet; Buckle: Rose Gold Deployant; Features: Enhanced comfort with 4mm Easy Link extension.

    Price: 475,000 CHF (excl. local taxes and duties).

    Notes: A grand complication featuring a carillon minute repeater and tourbillon, with both complications intentionally concealed behind the dial. This creates an understated watch with a vintage-inspired two-tone aesthetic.



    Biver Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series Titanium

    Case: Material: Titanium; Diameter: 42mm; Thickness: 13.7mm; Lug Width: 21.3mm; Crystal: Sapphire with inner anti-reflective coating; Caseback: Display with sapphire crystal; Water Resistance: 50 meters / 5 ATM.

    Movement: Calibre JCB-001-B; Winding: Automatic via bi-directional platinum micro-rotor; Power Reserve: 72 hours; Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph); Jewels: 44; Total Components: 374; Functions: Hours, Minutes, Carillon Minute Repeater, 60-second Tourbillon.

    Dial: Material: Titanium and 18k white gold; Markers: Applied 18k white gold; Hands: 18k white gold, satin-finished and hand-beveled; Details: Applied white gold chemin de fer.

    Strap: Material: Titanium bracelet; Buckle: Titanium Deployant; Features: Enhanced comfort with 4mm Easy Link extension.

    Price: 475,000 CHF (excl. local taxes and duties).

    Notes: This monochromatic, all-titanium version prioritizes a clean look and the acoustic performance of the carillon minute repeater. It represents a more contemporary and focused execution of the "hidden complication" concept.
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