A remarkable fusion of Russian whimsy and Chinese mechanical ingenuity has materialized in the world of independent watchmaking. The Behrens x Konstantin Chaykin Ace of Hearts is not merely a joint effort; it is a testament to a three-year partnership, a conversation between two distinct design philosophies that have found common ground. This limited-edition series combines the asymmetrical, complication-driven approach of Behrens with the iconic and expressive "Wristmon" character art of Konstantin Chaykin. The result is a timepiece that tells a story, drawing inspiration from ancient Chinese artistry while celebrating a decidedly modern and playful spirit. It stands as a complex piece of horology rich in both mechanical substance and emotional character.
The journey of this timepiece begins with its creators, two powerhouses of independent watchmaking from opposite ends of the Eurasian continent. Behrens, founded in Shenzhen, China, in 2012 by Mr. Lin Bingqiang, has rapidly carved out a significant niche for itself in the high-end sector. The brand is defined by its relentless pursuit of originality, focusing on developing unique complications and pushing the boundaries of traditional watch displays. Behrens operates as a fully integrated manufacture, handling everything from initial design and research to final production. Its collections, including the MASTER, INVENTOR, and ORIGINAL series, are known for their bold, often unconventional aesthetics that challenge the norms of how time can be represented on a wrist.
Courtesy of Behrens
On the other side of this collaboration is Konstantin Chaykin, a name that resonates deeply with collectors who appreciate creativity and mechanical invention. Operating from his manufacture in Russia, founded in 2003, Chaykin holds the unique distinction of being the country's premier producer of exclusively Russian-made luxury timepieces. He is an inventor as much as he is a watchmaker, renowned globally for his "Wristmons" collection, which gives watches expressive faces. The Joker watch, his most famous creation, transformed the traditional dial into a playful, animated character, a concept that has earned him worldwide acclaim and a dedicated following. His work is a masterclass in combining high-level watchmaking skill with a sense of humor and personality.
The Ace of Hearts is the culmination of these two distinct identities, a timepiece that proudly showcases the DNA of both its parents. The project commemorates three years of successful partnership, blending Behrens' expertise in creating intricate, asymmetrical movements with Chaykin’s celebrated talent for character design. Furthermore, the watch introduces a fascinating third element: a deep-seated homage to the artistry of the Chinese Han Dynasty. This cultural infusion adds another layer of narrative, creating a bridge between Eastern and Western traditions, ancient art, and contemporary mechanical design.
Courtesy of Behrens
At the very center of the Ace of Hearts is a dial that is immediately captivating and entirely unconventional. It eschews a traditional hand stack in favor of a character-driven display. The time is shown through two large, circular "eyes" that dominate the upper portion of the face, indicating the hours and minutes. This is a signature element borrowed from Chaykin's design language, giving the watch an immediate and recognizable personality. The dial itself has a complex, multi-layered construction that provides a sense of depth, with a texture that evokes both mechanical precision and organic artistry, reminiscent of a stylized, grinning skull.
The most whimsical feature of the time display is undoubtedly the seconds indicator. Here, Behrens' mechanical prowess comes to the forefront. A red, heart-shaped hand, the "Ace of Hearts" itself, does not sweep in a conventional circle. Instead, it follows a whimsical, looping path at the bottom of the dial, moving in a motion akin to a millstone grinding. This unique animation is powered by Behrens’ patented stone mill mechanism, a complication that adds a dynamic and perpetually entertaining element to the watch. To maintain the dial's clean, character-focused layout, the power reserve indicator is subtly integrated as a small display at the 12 o'clock position, providing a clear reading of the movement's remaining 46 hours of autonomy.
Courtesy of Behrens
The dial's design inspiration is a fascinating fusion of cultures. It pays direct homage to the "Pottery Storyteller Beating a Drum," a type of ceramic sculpture from the Chinese Han era known for its expressive and joyful depiction of performers. This ancient artistic reference is masterfully blended with the modern, iconic visage of Konstantin Chaykin's Joker character. The result is a face that is optimistic and playful, a storyteller for the wrist. The complexity of this design is not just aesthetic; the watch incorporates an impressive 11 patents, a clear indicator of the technical innovation required to bring this unique vision to life.
Powering this expressive display is the in-house Calibre BM07, a manual wind movement developed by Behrens. This engine is the mechanical heart of the watch, built to be both robust and visually engaging. It operates with a 46-hour power reserve, providing nearly two full days of operation on a single wind. The commitment to high-level craftsmanship is evident in the finishing of every component, a detail that Behrens has made a cornerstone of its brand identity. The movement plates feature a fine brush finish, the pivots are mirror-polished to a brilliant shine, and the edges are decorated with carefully executed chamfers.
Courtesy of Behrens
This mechanical artistry is not hidden away. The Ace of Hearts features a fully transparent sapphire case back, offering an unobstructed view of the Calibre BM07 in action. This window reveals the intricate interplay of gears, springs, and levers, creating a visual dialogue between the watch's internal world and its owner. A glance at the back showcases the thoughtful architecture of the movement, with its brushed plates creating a textured landscape, punctuated by the bright red of the jewels and the gleam of the polished components. It is a display of technical skill that complements the artistic expression of the dial.
The case that houses this mechanical marvel is as distinctive as the dial itself. It features a modern, trapezoidal shape with dimensions of 42mm by 37mm and a surprisingly slender profile of just 7.9mm thick. This unique geometry makes a strong statement on the wrist, distinguishing it from the round or rectangular cases that dominate the market. The design feels both architectural and ergonomic, providing a bold frame for the expressive face within.
Courtesy of Behrens
Further enhancing the watch's appeal is the variety of case materials available, each with its own distinct character and level of exclusivity. The most accessible version is crafted from Grade 5 Titanium, a material prized for its combination of high strength and low weight. This version, presented in a sleek gray finish, is limited to 600 pieces and offers a contemporary, industrial feel.
For those seeking a more cutting-edge aesthetic, the Ace of Hearts is also offered in a material called SPSCF Diamond Carbon Fiber. This advanced composite material is incredibly lightweight and durable, with a distinctive woven pattern that is unique to each piece. This variant comes in either black or white, each limited to just 150 pieces, appealing to collectors with a taste for modern, high-tech materials.
At the highest end of the collection are the spectacular full-sapphire cases. These are feats of manufacturing, machined from a single block of synthetic sapphire, a material almost as hard as diamond. The transparency of the case allows light to flood the movement and dial from all angles, creating a truly three-dimensional viewing experience. This version is available in a vibrant blue, limited to 80 pieces, and an exceptionally rare pink, with a production run of only 20 pieces worldwide. These sapphire models transform the watch into a piece of kinetic sculpture for the wrist.
Courtesy of Behrens
Across all variations, the case is rated for 5 ATM of water resistance, ensuring it is protected from splashes and daily wear. A unique serial number is engraved on the side of each case, confirming its individual identity and its place within a strictly limited series. This detail underscores the collectible nature of the timepiece and its status as a unique creation.
To ensure the Ace of Hearts is as comfortable to wear as it is fascinating to look at, it is paired with a high-quality fluoroelastomer strap. This material was chosen for its superior properties, including excellent resistance to heat, oxidation, and corrosion, making it incredibly durable and well-suited for daily wear. It is soft and flexible, providing all-day comfort on the wrist. The straps are available in both short and long lengths to accommodate all wrist sizes.
A key feature of the strap system is its versatility. The case is equipped with a smart quick-release mechanism that allows the owner to change straps instantly without the need for any tools. This thoughtful design encourages personalization, allowing the watch's look to be changed to suit any occasion. The available strap colors—including light blue, pink, white, black, and gray—can be mixed and matched with the different case variations, offering a wide range of stylistic possibilities.
Courtesy of Behrens
Attention to detail extends to every component, including the clasp, which is crafted from Grade 5 Titanium to match the robustness and quality of the case itself. To enhance the watch's expressive personality even in low-light conditions, key elements on the dial are treated with Super-LumiNova. The heart-shaped seconds hand and the hour and minute indices emit a vibrant glow in the dark, ensuring legibility while adding another layer of visual flair to the watch's character.
The pricing of the Behrens x Konstantin Chaykin Ace of Hearts reflects its status as a piece of limited-edition, high-end independent watchmaking. The price structure is tiered based on the complexity and rarity of the case material. The Grade 5 Titanium model in gray is the entry point to the collection, priced at $8,250 USD. The SPSCF Diamond Carbon Fiber models in black or white are positioned at $10,120 USD each. The most exclusive and intricate models, the synthetic sapphire cases, are priced at $14,960 USD for both the blue and pink versions. These prices correspond to the strict limitation numbers of 600 (Titanium), 150 (Carbon Fiber), 80 (Blue Sapphire), and 20 (Pink Sapphire) pieces.
Case: Trapezoidal shape (42mm x 37mm x 7.9mm). Available in Grade 5 Titanium, SPSCF Diamond Carbon Fiber (Black or White), or Synthetic Sapphire (Blue or Pink). Synthetic sapphire crystal front and back. Water resistance of 5ATM.
Movement: In-house Calibre BM07 manual wind movement. 46-hour power reserve. Hand-finished with brush-finished plates, mirror-polished pivots, and angled chamfers.
Dial: Hours and minutes displayed in two sub-dials ("eyes"). Patented stone mill mechanism powers a rotating, heart-shaped seconds hand. Power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. Super-LumiNova on indices and heart hand.
Strap: Fluororubber strap with a quick-release system. Grade 5 Titanium clasp.
Price: $8,250 (Gray Titanium), $10,120 (Black/White Carbon Fiber), $14,960 (Blue/Pink Sapphire).
Reference Number: BHR033
Notes: A limited-edition collaboration between Behrens and Konstantin Chaykin holding 11 patents. The design fuses Chaykin's "Joker" aesthetic with inspiration from Chinese Han Dynasty ceramic art.