Atelier Wen, a brand founded on the mission of bridging high-end Chinese artisanship with modern watch design, has taken a significant step forward from its celebrated Perception line. The new collection, dubbed Inflection, represents what the brand's founders call the realization of a "pipe dream"—a watch created without confines, aimed squarely at measuring up with the industry's best. This new series is an ambitious exploration of exotic materials, complex case architecture, and premier Swiss-Chinese collaboration, centered on an integrated bracelet design, a high-craft grand feu enamel dial, and a heavily customized movement from an esteemed haute horlogerie manufacturer.
The collection is built upon the philosophical concept of yin and yáng, representing the harmony of complementary dualities. This isn't just marketing copy; it's physically expressed in the watch's design, which is a study in contrasts. The entire architecture of the case and bracelet is a flow of concave and convex surfaces, creating a dynamic interplay of light and shadow that shifts with every movement of the wrist. It’s a design that deliberately avoids flat planes, opting for a more organic and complex curvature that serves as a canvas for the watch's primary material.
Courtesy of Atelier Wen
The most defining feature of the Inflection, and its biggest manufacturing challenge, is the case and bracelet, which are milled entirely from 99.9% pure tantalum. Tantalum is an incredibly dense, rare, and inert metal, known for its distinct dark bluish-grey tone. It is notoriously difficult to machine, a property that has kept it from widespread use in watchmaking. Atelier Wen's choice to not only use this material but to shape it into such a complex, ergonomic form is a statement of intent, pushing their manufacturing partners to new limits.
The 40mm case is a masterclass in finishing. To highlight the unique properties of the tantalum, a mix of surface treatments has been applied. Strong vertical brushing runs along the main surfaces, providing a satin, industrial feel that contrasts sharply with the mirror-polished chamfers that define the case's edges. Sandblasted accents are used in other areas to create a frosted texture, adding a third layer of visual complexity. The result is a watch that seems to absorb light in some areas and reflect it sharply in others, amplifying the enigmatic beauty of the metal.
This design language extends directly into the integrated bracelet, also crafted from pure tantalum. The links are not simple, flat blocks; they are composed of curved external and middle links. The external links feature the same strong vertical brushing seen on the case, creating a seamless visual flow, while the middle links are mirror-polished, catching the light and providing a striking contrast. The bracelet features a subtle taper from 22mm at the case down to 18mm at the clasp, ensuring a comfortable and balanced fit on the wrist.
Functionally, the bracelet is equipped with modern, high-end features. It includes a quick-release system, allowing for easy removal without tools. More impressively, it incorporates a patent-pending, on-the-fly micro-adjustment system built into the clasp. This allows the wearer to make fine adjustments to the fit across four positions, a high-convenience feature often reserved for top-tier luxury sports watches. The clasp itself utilizes a telescopic deployant blade, ensuring a secure and clean closure.
Courtesy of Atelier Wen
For those who prefer a strap, Atelier Wen offers an integrated alternative that maintains the watch's high-end, sporty character. The strap features a premium sailcloth upper portion, known for its durability and texture, which is bonded to an injection-molded FKM rubber base for superior comfort and resistance to the elements. This strap also includes a quick-release system and tapers from 22mm to 18mm. It secures with a folding clasp made of 99.9% pure tantalum, ensuring the material continuity and quality are not compromised.
At the heart of the Inflection series are its dials, each an example of grand feu enameling from the Beijing workshop of Kong Lingjun, China's foremost enamel dial atelier. This traditional craft is incredibly demanding, requiring multiple firings in a kiln at temperatures between 750°C and 850°C. The failure rate is exceptionally high, as the enamel can crack, bubble, or discolor at any stage, making each successful dial a costly and time-consuming achievement.
The collection launches with three distinct dial variations. The first is a limited edition of 30 pieces, known as "You" (Green). This dial begins with a 925 silver base that is hand-hammered to create a unique, textured surface. Translucent grand feu enamel is then applied to create a fumé or gradient effect, ranging from a pale green in the center to a deep viridian at the dial's edge. Achieving a smooth and consistent gradient with this technique is especially challenging, making this variant a showcase of the artisan's skill.
The second version, part of the permanent collection, is "Mo" (Black). This dial is a deep, obsidian black grand feu enamel. While a solid color might seem simpler, achieving a perfectly level, glossy, and pitch-black surface without any imperfections requires multiple trials of firing and polishing. The result is a dial with an inky, liquid depth that contrasts powerfully with the case and hands.
Courtesy of Atelier Wen
The third variant, also in the permanent collection, is "Yuan" (Blue). This grand feu enamel dial is described as midnight blue. Like many high-quality enamel dials, its character changes dramatically depending on the lighting conditions, shifting from a near-black in low light to a vibrant, deep blue when it catches the sun. This "Mo" dial is paired with voluminous "leaf" hands plated in 5N rose gold, a warm contrast to the black dial.
All three dials share a unique set of hour markers. The numerals are a custom Western-Arabic set designed by Lee Yuen-Rapati, who drew inspiration from the flowing strokes of Chinese bamboo leaf calligraphy. This detail is a perfect example of Atelier Wen's mission, blending Eastern and Western aesthetics into a cohesive and original design.
The handset is equally detailed. The "You" (Green) and "Yuan" (Blue) models feature rhodium-plated "leaf" hands, while the "Mo" (Black) model uses 5N rose gold-plated hands. These hands are not flat; they are voluminous, with deeply concave side planes that are mirror-polished. This three-dimensional shape allows them to catch and reflect light, significantly enhancing legibility. As a final watchmaking touch, the minute and seconds hands are subtly hand-bent at the tips to follow the curvature of the crystal, minimizing parallax error.
Protecting the dial is a double-domed sapphire box crystal, a shape that adds a slight vintage character and pleasing distortion at the edges. The crystal is treated with five layers of anti-reflective coating to ensure clarity. The case back also features a domed sapphire crystal, similarly coated, to provide a wide, unobstructed view of the movement.
Powering the Inflection is a customized Girard-Perregaux GP03300 calibre. The decision to partner with one of Switzerland's oldest and most respected haute horlogerie manufactures signals Atelier Wen's commitment to high-end mechanics and finishing. This movement is not simply a stock calibre dropped into a case; it has been heavily customized in a collaboration between Atelier Wen's designer, Alfred Chan, Sidoine Lescauville, and the Girard-Perregaux technical team.
Courtesy of Atelier Wen
The bridges have been completely redesigned and skeletonised, featuring curved, sweeping lines inspired by motifs of wind in historical Chinese paintings. This "wind" theme is a symbolic contrast to the immense density and weight of the tantalum case. The movement's finishing is intricate, featuring a dark grey ruthenium plating that gives it a modern, technical look. The bridges are decorated with dramatic anglage (polished, beveled edges), sharp exterior angles, and laser-etched "waved" côtes that emanate radially from the movement's center.
This high-level decoration is complemented by black-polished screws. Even the automatic winding rotor has been customized, featuring a similar wind-inspired motif and plated in 5N rose gold, which provides a warm focal point against the dark grey bridges. The base GP03300 is a proven, high-performance automatic movement, featuring 27 jewels, a 48-hour power reserve, and a frequency of 28,800 bph. It is adjusted to five positions and to temperature, and includes a stop-seconds (hacking) function for precise time-setting.
Despite its exotic materials and complex movement, the Inflection is designed for wearability. The case measures 40mm in diameter, with a compact 45mm lug-to-lug measurement that will fit a wide variety of wrists. Its thickness is a very reasonable 10.2mm, including the domed crystal, allowing it to slip easily under a cuff. Combined with a screw-down crown and a 100-meter water resistance rating, the watch is a robust and practical piece for daily wear.
The brand's name, Atelier Wen, translates to "Culture Workshop." It's a literal expression of its identity, founded by two French friends, Robin Tallendier and Wilfried, who met while studying in Beijing. They shared a passion for Chinese culture and horology and became disillusioned with the dismissive attitude their peers in Europe often had towards Chinese craftsmanship. Atelier Wen was founded in 2018 to challenge that perception and showcase the country's deep artisanal roots.
Courtesy of Atelier Wen
Their journey began with the Porcelain Odyssey on Kickstarter, followed by a long hiatus where, in their words, "tough but valuable lessons" were learned. In 2022, they launched Perception, a watch featuring a stunning guilloché dial made by a master craftsman, which sold out its initial batch in 16 hours. The Inflection is the next logical, albeit massive, leap in that journey, fulfilling the founders' goal of creating a watch that pushes the limits of Chinese craftsmanship and material science, supported by one of the best movement suppliers in Switzerland.
The Atelier Wen Inflection collection is accompanied by a 5-year warranty, a sign of the brand's confidence in its product, testing, and partners. The "Mo" (Black) and "Yuan" (Blue) dial versions are part of the permanent collection. The "You" (Green) dial, with its hand-hammered base and fumé enamel, is a launch-exclusive limited edition of just 30 pieces. The watch is priced at $29,800.00 USD on the full 99.9% pure tantalum bracelet, and $19,800.00 USD on the integrated sailcloth and FKM rubber strap.
Case: 99.9% pure tantalum, 40mm diameter x 45mm lug-to-lug x 10.2mm thickness. Mixed concave and convex surfaces with mirror-polished chamfers, vertical brushing, and sandblasted accents. Screw-down crown, 100m water resistance. Double-domed sapphire box crystal and full-display, domed sapphire crystal case back, both with 5 layers of AR coating.
Movement: Customised Girard-Perregaux GP03300 automatic calibre. Features Chinese wind-motif inspired, skeletonised bridges with anglage, exterior angles, and radial, wavy côtes. Dark grey ruthenium plating, 5N rose gold plated rotor. 27 jewels, 28,800 bph, 48-hour power reserve. Adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, stop (hacking) seconds.
Dial: Grand feu enamel dial on 925 silver base by Kong Lingjun's workshop. Available in Green (You - hand-hammered, fumé, limited), Black (Mo - obsidian black), and Blue (Yuan - midnight blue). Western-Arabic numerals by Lee Yuen-Rapati. Voluminous "leaf" hands (rhodium or 5N rose gold plated) with mirror-polished concave planes; hand-bent minute/seconds hands.
Strap: 99.9% pure tantalum integrated bracelet with vertical brushing and mirror-polishing, tapering 22mm to 18mm. Patent-pending, on-the-fly micro-adjustment system (4 positions), telescopic deployant blade, quick-release system. Also available: Integrated premium sailcloth/FKM rubber strap (22mm to 18mm) with 99.9% tantalum folding clasp, telescopic deployant blade, quick-release.
Price: $29,800.00 USD (Bracelet) / $19,800.00 USD (Strap).
Notes: The case and bracelet are crafted from 99.9% pure tantalum, a rare and notoriously difficult-to-machine metal. Features high-craft grand feu enamel dials from Kong Lingjun's workshop, the foremost enamel atelier in China. Green (You) dial is limited to 30 pieces.