Atelier Wen Ancestra

Atelier Wen has steadily carved a niche for itself by championing Chinese culture and artisanal craftsmanship within the sphere of horology. With each release, the brand has deepened its narrative, exploring unique facets of its heritage. The new Ancestra Jiao marks a significant leap forward, representing the brand's most ambitious project to date. It is a timepiece that not only showcases extraordinary traditional artistry but also integrates high-performance French mechanical engineering, creating a compelling dialogue between past and present, East and West.

The philosophy of Atelier Wen has always been to provide a stage for Chinese arts that are often overlooked by the mainstream watch industry. From porcelain dials to intricate guilloché, the brand has consistently demonstrated that the highest levels of craft exist and thrive within China. The Ancestra collection, and its launch edition, the Jiao, is the culmination of this journey. It pushes the boundaries of what the brand has previously accomplished, combining a profoundly intricate dial, a uniquely sculpted case, and a top-tier European movement into a single, cohesive design.



The very name and form of the watch are steeped in millennia of history. "Jiao" is a reference to a type of dragon, and the watch's design draws direct inspiration from one of the earliest known depictions of this mythical creature: the zhu long, or "pig-dragon." These C-shaped jade carvings, originating from the Hongshan culture of Northeast China between 4700-2900 BC, are not just artifacts; they are foundational symbols of Chinese cultural identity and early craftsmanship. The Ancestra Jiao reinterprets this ancient form for the wrist, translating a piece of archaeological significance into a contemporary object of wearable art.

This historical narrative is most powerfully expressed through the watch’s case. Crafted from 904L stainless steel, a grade known for its superior corrosion resistance and ability to hold a brilliant polish, the case is a complex, multi-part construction. Designed by Sifan Guo and Alfred Chan, its form is a direct homage to the zhu long. The most striking features are the sinuous, detached lugs that curve gracefully around a central, pebble-like mid-case. This construction mimics the coiled body of the jade dragon and allows for an exceptional level of finishing, with sharp, defined transitions between brushed and polished surfaces that would be impossible to achieve on a monobloc case.

The dimensions of the case are thoughtfully considered for modern wearability. At 38mm in diameter with a compact lug-to-lug measurement of 46mm, it promises a comfortable fit on a wide range of wrists. The lugs themselves curve downwards sharply, further enhancing ergonomics. Despite its intricate construction and the depth of its dial and movement, the watch maintains a svelte profile of just 11.3mm, allowing it to slip easily under a shirt cuff. The detached lugs are secured by internal screws, which are capped by external bolts intricately engraved with a traditional Chinese hui wen motif, adding another layer of sophisticated detail. Practicality is also addressed with a screw-down crown that helps secure a water resistance rating of 100 meters.

While the case tells a story of ancient sculpture, the dial plunges the wearer into a world of color and texture. The Ancestra Jiao features a grand feu enamel dial that is nothing short of breathtaking. The dial begins as a 925 silver base that is painstakingly hand-hammered to create a textured, undulating surface reminiscent of a dynamic body of water. This martéle base is then covered in layers of translucent enamel, which is fired in a kiln at temperatures between 750-850°C. The process is repeated up to six times to achieve the desired effect: a stunning fumé gradient that transitions from a pale, silvery blue at the center to a deep, oceanic cobalt at the periphery.



This level of artistry is immensely challenging. The combination of hammering and multiple firings results in a high failure rate of approximately 50%, making each successful dial a testament to skill and patience. These dials are crafted by the workshop of Mr. Kong Lingjun, a master artisan whose studio has been designated as the China Enamel Watch Manufacturing Center by the China Horologe Association, cementing its status as the foremost dial enameler in the country. The visual effect is one of mesmerizing depth, as if one is gazing into the mythical aquatic domain of the dragon kings.

This intricate canvas is adorned with a host of carefully considered details. The watch is available in two variants, each offering a unique take on its time-telling indices. The first variant features odd hour markers rendered in traditional Chinese numerals, specially designed by Hong Kong calligrapher Elaine Wong. This set includes an original, stylized representation for the number "11," a creative solution akin to the "watchmaker's four" in Western horology. The second variant, conceived by designer Lee Yuen-Rapati, uses Western-Arabic numerals for the even hours, with a font inspired by the elegant strokes of Chinese bamboo leaf calligraphy.

Between these primary markers, subtle baguette-cut lab-grown diamonds mark the alternate hours, adding a quiet coruscation that complements the shimmering dial without overpowering it. The time is indicated by a set of voluminous, tri-planed "leaf" hands. The top surface features a fine frosted finish, while the sides are deeply concave and highly polished, creating a dynamic play of light as the watch moves. The minute hand is also gently bent by hand to follow the curvature of the crystal, a minute detail that speaks volumes about the level of care invested in the watch's creation.

Protecting this intricate dial is a double-domed box sapphire crystal, a feature that adds vintage character while providing modern scratch resistance. The crystal is treated with five layers of anti-reflective coating on the underside, ensuring maximum clarity and minimizing glare from all angles. This allows the owner to fully appreciate the complex interplay of color, texture, and light on the dial's surface.



Turning the watch over reveals a decision that marks a new chapter for Atelier Wen. A full-display, slightly domed sapphire crystal caseback offers an uninterrupted view of the movement, and for the first time, the brand has partnered with a European manufacture. The Ancestra Jiao is powered by the Pequignet Calibre EPM03, a state-of-the-art movement from France’s oldest continuously operating true watch manufacturer. This partnership was born from a desire to elevate the brand's mechanical standards to match its artisanal prowess.

The Calibre EPM03 is an impressive piece of engineering. It is an automatic movement that boasts a substantial 65-hour power reserve, beating at a modern frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). Winding is handled by a highly efficient bi-directional system that uses a pawl-based, "Pellaton-style" lever and a patented tooth profile in the gear train to improve energy transmission and reduce long-term wear. The movement also supports manual winding and features a hacking function for precise time-setting.

Pequignet’s commitment to precision is evident in the movement's regulation. Each calibre is adjusted in six positions and to three different temperatures, achieving an accuracy that meets the stringent chronometer standard of -4/+6 seconds per day. The testing period itself spans 16 continuous days, exceeding the requirements for COSC certification and comfortably meeting the standards of the prestigious Observatoire Chronométrique de Besançon. This ensures a level of reliability and performance befitting a watch of this caliber.

While the movement's origin is French, Atelier Wen has ensured it carries a distinctively Chinese soul. The most captivating feature of the decorated calibre is the expansive three-quarter bridge, which has been transformed into a canvas for a 446-character excerpt from the ancient Chinese poem, Tian Wen, or "Heavenly Questions." Attributed to the poet Qu Yuan (c. 340–278 BCE), the text is a profound series of questions about cosmology and Chinese mythology, forming a perfect philosophical complement to the Jiao's draconic theme.



This decoration was achieved through high-precision YAG laser micro-etching, a process fraught with technical challenges. The laser's heat could easily distort the thin 0.25mm bridge, and achieving legible text engraved to a depth of 0.10mm required immense effort to perfect. The result is a stunning, concentric tapestry of text that is exceptionally rare in the industry. This intricate engraving is beautifully framed by the generous, polished anglage on the bridge's edges.

Further finishing details elevate the movement's visual appeal. The ratchet return wheel and the balance bridge are both black-polished to a flawless, mirror-like sheen. The monobloc tungsten rotor, which provides the winding power, is skeletonized and plated in 5N rose gold. It features a sophisticated mix of finishes, including frosting, colimaçonnage, and laser-engraved hui wen patterns, tying it visually to the details on the case.

The final connection between the watch and the wearer is the strap, which has been given the same meticulous attention to detail as the rest of the timepiece. The Ancestra Jiao comes on a full-grain leather strap, hand-stitched by skilled artisans. The upper is made from textured Epsom leather, prized for its durability and distinctive grain, while the lining is Zermatt leather from the famed Tanneries Haas, a soft and hypoallergenic calfskin considered one of the finest linings available.

The strap tapers from 20mm at the lugs to a more refined 16mm at the buckle, enhancing comfort and creating a more elegant profile on the wrist. It is equipped with quick-release spring bars, allowing for easy strap changes without the need for tools. The custom-designed 904L steel buckle is a small work of art in itself, featuring hand-applied, mirror-polished bevels that contrast with sharp satin-brushed surfaces. As a final hidden touch, the interior of the buckle is embellished with a lacquer-filled seal of the Atelier Wen logo.



Atelier Wen stands behind the Ancestra Jiao with an extensive ownership package. The watch is covered by a 5-year warranty, a clear statement of the brand's confidence in its product, its manufacturing partners, and its own longevity. The brand has also made provisions for replacement parts to ensure that each watch can be serviced and maintained for its entire lifetime. They are committed to providing seamless after-sales support, including doorstep-to-doorstep service for any warranty or service needs.

The Atelier Wen Ancestra Jiao Launch Edition is available exclusively for pre-order, priced at $5,850 USD. Given the complexity of the dial manufacturing and the overall craftsmanship involved, production is limited, with deliveries anticipated for the second quarter of 2026. For customers in the United States, Atelier Wen offers a Delivered Duty Paid (DDP) shipping option, meaning the final price at checkout includes all customs, duties, and tariffs, simplifying the purchasing process significantly.

Case: 904L stainless steel; 38mm diameter x 46mm lug-to-lug x 11.3mm thickness; Screw-down crown; 100m water resistance; Double-domed box sapphire crystal with 5 layers of AR coating; Sapphire display caseback.

Movement: Heavily-customised Pequignet Calibre EPM03; Automatic winding with 65-hour power reserve; 28,800 bph; Adjusted to 6 positions and three temperatures for -4/+6s per day accuracy; Hacking function.

Dial: Hand-hammered 925 silver base with a grand feu, fumé enamel finish by the workshop of Kong Lingjun; Alternating indices with either traditional Chinese or Western-Arabic numerals and baguette-cut diamonds; Tri-planed rhodium-plated "leaf" hands.

Strap: Hand-stitched full-grain leather strap with Epsom upper and Zermatt lining; 20mm width tapering to 16mm; Custom steel buckle with mixed finishing; Quick-release spring bars.

Price: $5,850.00 USD (Pre-order, delivery Q2 2026).

Notes: The case design is inspired by ancient Hongshan jade "pig-dragon" carvings. The movement's 3/4 bridge is deeply micro-etched with a 446-character ancient Chinese poem, *Tian Wen*.