Angelus Monochrome Montre de Souscription 5 Chronographe Tachymetre

Historical Lineage and the THA Caliber A5000

The Angelus Monochrome Montre de Souscription 5 Chronographe Tachymetre represents a significant horological intersection, uniting contemporary independent manufacturing with a movement architecture rooted in the peak of late 20th-century watchmaking. The heart of this timepiece is the Calibre A5000, a hand-wound monopusher chronograph whose provenance is inextricably linked to Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA). Founded in the early 1990s by the triumvirate of François-Paul Journe, Vianney Halter, and Denis Flageollet, THA was a laboratory for high-concept complications. This specific architecture was famously utilized in the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir (Calibre 045MC), a watch that remains a touchstone for collectors of neo-vintage design. Now produced under the aegis of Manufacture La Joux-Perret, which shares corporate lineage with Angelus, the A5000 preserves the traditional horizontal clutch and column-wheel engagement that defines the classical chronograph aesthetic.

The mechanical advantage of the monopusher, or monopoussoir, configuration lies in its streamlined operation and the purity of the case silhouette. By integrating the start, stop, and reset functions into a single actuation point located within the crown, the caliber avoids the cluttered ergonomics of a traditional dual-pusher layout. This necessitates a highly precise sequence of engagement within the movement; the column wheel must rotate through specific indices to toggle the operating levers with absolute reliability. In an era dominated by modular vertical clutch chronographs, the A5000 offers a transparent mechanical narrative. Through the sapphire caseback, the user can observe the physical displacement of the lateral clutch as it interfaces with the driving wheel, a visual and tactile experience that is often obscured in modern, thicker automatic movements.

Architecture and Technical Execution of the Case

Constructed from stainless steel, the case measures a restrained 37mm in diameter with a remarkably slim profile of 9.25mm. This height is particularly notable for a mechanical chronograph, as the inclusion of complex lever systems typically results in significant vertical bulk. The case finishing exhibits a meticulous juxtaposition of textures; the mid-case and the tops of the lugs feature a fine longitudinal brushing that diffuses light, while the bezel and the chamfers along the lug edges are polished to a mirror-like luster. This high-degree anglage on the case creates a sharp transition between surfaces, emphasizing the geometric precision of the lug architecture. The lugs themselves are tapered and feature a subtle downward curvature, ensuring the 37mm footprint remains centered on the wrist for optimal ergonomics.

The tactile interface is dominated by a large, fluted crown that serves as the singular command center for both time-setting and chronograph operation. The integration of the pusher into the crown requires precise tolerances to ensure that winding the watch does not inadvertently trigger the chronograph mechanism. Protecting the dial is a box-type sapphire crystal, which is treated with anti-reflective coating on both surfaces. This crystal choice mimics the aesthetic of mid-century hesalite but provides the scratch resistance and clarity of modern materials. The caseback is secured by screws and features a secondary sapphire portal, providing an unobstructed view of the internal mechanics. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters, consistent with the dress-chronograph nature of the timepiece.

Dial Composition and Chronographic Scales

The dial of the Montre de Souscription 5 departs from the brand’s standard telemeter configuration in favor of a tachymeter scale, a choice that reflects a deliberate alignment with motorsports heritage. The base of the dial is finished in a 2N pale yellow gold color with a distinct grained texture. This galvanic treatment provides a matte, non-reflective surface that serves as a high-contrast backdrop for the polished rhodium-plated hardware. The hour markers consist of hand-applied baton indexes and Arabic numerals at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. These elements are faceted and polished, allowing them to catch ambient light and remain legible despite the monochromatic nature of the yellow-gold-on-yellow-gold palette.

A defining feature of this edition is the snailed tachymeter scale located on the periphery. Unlike many modern tachymeters that are printed on external bezels, this scale is graduated from 500 down to 30 units and features a double-coil design. This "snail" layout allows for the measurement of lower average speeds over a fixed distance, a technical rarity in contemporary chronograph design. The sub-counters—small seconds at 9 o'clock and a 30-minute recorder at 3 o'clock—are recessed and finished with a fine circular snailing. The syringe-style hands are rhodium-plated and filled with Super-LumiNova, ensuring that the primary time-telling functions remain visible in low-light conditions without compromising the vintage-inspired aesthetic of the handset.

The Calibre A5000: Finishing and Performance

The Calibre A5000 is a showcase of traditional Swiss finissage, executed with a level of detail usually reserved for bespoke independent watchmaking. For this specific collaboration, the main plate and bridges are treated with a 3N gold finish, creating a warm, historicist contrast against the steel and palladium-plated components of the chronograph works. The bridges are decorated with wide Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes), and every edge features hand-applied anglage, or chamfering. These beveled edges are polished to a high shine, creating a brilliant frame for the straight-grained levers and springs that populate the movement’s architecture. The use of a column wheel to coordinate the chronograph functions ensures a crisp, tactile "click" upon actuation, free from the mushy resistance often found in cam-actuated alternatives.

Technically, the movement operates at a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), a cadence that is historically appropriate for a manually wound caliber of this type. It incorporates 23 jewels and provides a power reserve of approximately 42 hours when fully wound. The movement measures 24mm in diameter with a thickness of only 4.20mm, which is the primary factor allowing for the watch’s sub-10mm total case height. Other notable finishes include circular-grained (perlage) golden wheels and polished screw heads with chamfered slots. The steel components of the chronograph mechanism feature straight-graining on their top surfaces and hand-polished bevels on their flanks, representing a comprehensive approach to haute horlogerie decoration.

Strap Integration and Ergonomics

To complement the pale yellow gold and steel tones, the timepiece is paired with a handmade mid-grey Nubuck leather strap. Nubuck, which is top-grain cattle hide that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side to produce a velvet-like surface, provides a softer tactile feel than traditional calfskin while maintaining significant durability. The grey tone is neutral, allowing the warmth of the dial to remain the visual focal point. The strap is secured with a stainless steel pin buckle, which is signed and finished to match the case. The use of a standard pin buckle rather than a deployant clasp maintains the slim profile of the watch on the underside of the wrist, reinforcing the traditional character of the subscription series.

Pricing and Subscription Details

The Angelus Monochrome Montre de Souscription 5 is offered as a limited edition of 20 pieces. This model follows the "subscription" format, a historical method of watch sales where customers provide a down payment to fund the production of the piece. The retail price is set at EUR 18,500, excluding VAT. To secure a reservation, a non-refundable down payment of EUR 5,000 is required. Given the movement's pedigree and the level of hand-finishing involved, this price point positions the watch as a specialized offering for enthusiasts of independent horology. Deliveries for the twenty units are scheduled for April 2026, following the manufacturing cycle at Angelus’ facilities in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Each caseback is individually engraved with the serial number (XX/20), denoting its place in this highly restricted production run.

Technical Specifications

Case: 37mm diameter x 9.25mm thickness, brushed and polished stainless steel, box sapphire crystal, 30m water resistance.

Movement: Angelus Calibre A5000, hand-wound monopusher chronograph, 3Hz frequency, 42h power reserve, 23 jewels, column-wheel.

Dial: 2N yellow-gold-coloured galvanic dial, grained finish, snailed tachymeter scale, rhodium-plated syringe hands with Super-LumiNova.

Strap: Mid-grey Nubuck leather strap with stainless steel pin buckle.

Price: EUR 18,500 (Excluding VAT).

Reference Number: Montre de Souscription 5.

Notes: Limited edition of 20 pieces, movement architecture originally developed by THA (Journe, Halter, Flageollet).