Angelus has released a new iteration of its Chronodate collection, exploring a warm and sophisticated palette inspired by the rich tones of roasted coffee and chocolate. This new release, known as the Chronodate Moka, arrives in two distinct variations that play with the juxtaposition of materials and the depth of color. Offered in both Red Gold and Titanium, the Moka editions present a cohesive aesthetic that bridges the gap between the brand’s historic manufacturing roots and its modern architectural ambitions. The overarching theme centers on a specific hue of brown—a mocha shade that shifts between amber and deep earth tones depending on the light—creating a visual experience that feels both organic and highly technical. These watches are not merely new colorways; they represent a continued evolution of the neo-retro design language that Angelus has been refining, merging complex case construction with a layout that honors the chronographs of the mid-20th century.
The history of Angelus is deeply entwined with the development of the chronograph complication, specifically during the golden era of the 1930s and 1940s. During this period, the manufacture established itself as a premier producer of timing instruments, known for movements that were both robust and innovative. The original Chronodate, launched in 1942, was a significant milestone, as it was one of the first wristwatches to feature a calendar date integrated into a chronograph mechanism. The modern Chronodate collection serves as a direct tribute to this heritage, yet it avoids the trap of simply reissuing a vintage watch. Instead, it takes the core DNA—the bicompax layout and the peripheral date—and transplants it into a vessel that is unapologetically contemporary. The Moka editions continue this narrative, using a color palette that feels reminiscent of vintage tropical dials, where black faces would fade to brown over decades of sun exposure, yet achieving this look through deliberate, high-tech manufacturing processes.
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Visually, the Chronodate Moka makes a striking first impression through its elaborate case architecture. The construction is modular, a multi-component system that allows for a distinct separation of structural elements. The core of the watch is a container crafted from a carbon-fibre-based composite, a material chosen for its extreme rigidity and lightness. This carbon container houses the movement and serves as the mounting point for the bezel ring and the chronograph pushers. Surrounding this inner core is an openworked cradle that integrates the lugs and the case middle into a single, continuous line. This outer skeleton is where the choice of metal becomes defining; in one version, it is machined from 5N 18-carat Red Gold, and in the other, from Grade 5 Titanium. The interplay between the matte, technical texture of the carbon composite and the refined, satin-finished metal of the cradle creates a dynamic visual tension. It is a design that looks engineered rather than simply sculpted, highlighting the separate functions of protection and structure.
A close examination of the dial reveals the depth of the "Moka" finish. The surface is treated with a PVD coating in a mocha-brown hue, which is then given a sunray-brushed finish. This brushing technique causes the light to radiate outward from the center, creating sectors of brightness and shadow that rotate as the wrist moves. In the metal, this results in a dial that feels alive; in direct light, it glows with an amber warmth, while in dimmer conditions, it settles into a deep, chocolate brown. This warm backdrop provides a high-contrast stage for the chronograph counters. Located at 3 and 9 o'clock, the 30-minute totalizer and the small seconds sub-dial are rendered in a metallic black with a snailed, or concentric circle, texture. This choice of black against brown is a classic combination that enhances legibility while adding a layer of aggressive sportiness to the otherwise elegant color scheme. The counters are notably large, a deliberate design choice that nods to the oversized counters found on early aviation and military chronographs, prioritizing readability above all else.
The peripheral date indication is perhaps the most distinctive feature of the Chronodate's face. Unlike a standard date window which breaks the symmetry of a dial, the peripheral date utilizes a hand that travels around the outer edge of the dial track. On the Moka editions, this is executed with a red-tipped, openworked arrowhead hand that frames the current date. This method of display keeps the central dial area uncluttered, allowing the chronograph counters to breathe. The red accent of the date hand is matched by the chronograph seconds hand and the 30-minute counter hand, creating a color-coded system where time-telling functions are neutral, and chronograph/date functions are highlighted in red. This use of color is subtle but effective, guiding the eye instantly to the relevant information without overwhelming the sophisticated brown palette. The large Arabic numerals are applied to the dial surface, filled with Super-LumiNova to ensure visibility in low light, and their font choice strikes a balance between retro signage and modern typography.
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The case profile reveals the complexity of the modular design. The pushers are not simple cylindrical plungers; they are shaped, carbon composite components that follow the lines of the case. They feature a distinct rectangular profile with chamfered edges, providing a tactile surface for operation. Between the pushers sits the crown, which features a rubber ring for grip and displays the Angelus logo. The bezel that tops the assembly is marked with twelve notches, a detail that breaks up the visual mass of the metal and adds a gear-like aesthetic. The chamfering on the lugs and the case edges is polished, contrasting with the dominant satin-brushed surfaces. This mixture of finishes is critical in defining the watch's presence; the polished lines catch the light and emphasize the architectural geometry, while the brushed areas reinforce the tool-watch capabilities. The watch measures 42.5mm in diameter, a size that commands attention but is managed ergonomically by the curvature of the lugs and the lightness of the materials, particularly in the titanium version.
Turning the watch over reveals the engine behind the Moka edition: the Calibre A-500. This is a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement developed and manufactured by Angelus. The view through the sapphire caseback is dominated by a modern, monochromatic aesthetic that contrasts with the warmth of the dial. The main plate and bridges are sandblasted and bead-blasted, then treated with NAC—a galvanic coating that gives them a dark, anthracite-grey finish. This dark grey canvas makes the moving parts, such as the rhodium-plated wheels and the ruby jewels, pop visually. The architecture of the movement is open, revealing the column wheel mechanism that controls the chronograph functions. The column wheel is the hallmark of a high-end chronograph, ensuring a precise and tactile start-stop-reset action that cam-actuated systems often lack. Additionally, a horizontal clutch is employed to couple the chronograph mechanism to the gear train, a traditional choice that allows for a slim profile relative to the movement's complexity.
The rotor, or oscillating weight, is a focal point of the movement's design. It takes the shape of the brand’s historic logo: a capital letter 'A' combined with a star, evoking the silhouette of a bell and clapper. On the Red Gold edition, the segment of the rotor that provides the winding inertia is crafted from solid 18-carat 5N red gold, matching the case material. On the Titanium edition, this segment is made from tungsten, a dense metal chosen to provide sufficient mass for efficient winding. The rotor is skeletonized, allowing a view of the gear train beneath it even when the weight is positioned over the center. The screws holding the movement components together feature a unique head design shaped like a three-bladed propeller—or the Angelus star logo—demonstrating the level of custom detailing that goes into the assembly. These are not off-the-shelf components; every element has been considered to reinforce the brand's identity.
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The material choices for the case heavily influence the character of each reference. The Red Gold version (Ref. 0CDZE.C01A.C1282B) exudes a sense of luxury and weight. The 5N gold alloy has a rich, coppery tone that perfectly complements the Moka dial. It feels substantial on the wrist, a dressy chronograph that bridges the gap between formal wear and casual luxury. The carbon composite elements in the mid-case and pushers temper the flashiness of the gold, grounding it in a modern, high-tech context. It suggests a wearer who appreciates traditional precious metals but demands a watch with contemporary engineering and durability. The interplay of the red gold with the brown alligator strap creates a monochromatic warmth that is very much in line with current trends favoring earth tones over stark blacks or blues.
Conversely, the Titanium version (Ref. 0CDZF.C01A.C1282E) leans heavily into the sport-chic category. Grade 5 titanium is known for its exceptional strength-to-weight ratio and its ability to take a high polish, unlike the greyer, matte finish of Grade 2 titanium. This allows the Titanium Moka to feature the same sophisticated finishing techniques as the gold model—alternating satin and polished surfaces—while being significantly lighter. The cool, silver-grey tone of the titanium provides a sharper contrast to the warm brown dial, making the face of the watch pop more dramatically. This version feels more utilitarian, a tool watch that has been elevated through color and finish. It is paired with a titanium bracelet or a rubber strap, further emphasizing its readiness for daily wear and active environments.
The straps provided with the Chronodate Moka editions are designed to integrate seamlessly with the case design. The primary option is a hand-stitched alligator leather strap in the signature "Moka" brown. The scales of the alligator leather are large and rectangular, lending a classic, masculine texture to the package. The color matching is precise, extending the dial's hue around the wrist for a complete look. However, Angelus also includes a black rubber strap with the watch. This rubber option transforms the watch's character immediately, stripping away the vintage dressiness and highlighting the carbon composite elements and the sportier aspects of the chronograph dial. The presence of an interchangeable strap system allows the owner to swap between these looks without tools, adding a layer of versatility that is essential for a modern luxury timepiece. For the titanium model, a full titanium bracelet is also available, featuring links that echo the chamfered geometry of the case lugs.
On the wrist, the 42.5mm diameter and 14.25mm thickness create a presence that is assertive but not overwhelming. The use of the carbon composite container helps to reduce the overall weight, preventing the watch from feeling top-heavy. The lugs are relatively short and curve downwards sharply, hugging the wrist and allowing the watch to wear smaller than the dimensions might suggest. The readability is excellent; the large Arabic numerals and the stark contrast of the sub-dials mean that time can be read at a glance. The peripheral date is intuitive once one gets used to looking at the edge of the dial, and the red accents provide just enough visual information to be useful without being distracting. The chronograph pushers have a crisp, mechanical actuation feel, a testament to the column-wheel architecture inside.
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The dial's sunray finish is particularly reactive to ambient light. In bright sunlight, the "Moka" brown explodes with golden and copper highlights, revealing the fine texture of the brushing. The snailed black sub-dials absorb light, remaining legible and distinct against the shimmering background. In lower light, the dial darkens to a near-black coffee color, allowing the luminous hands and numerals to take center stage. This dynamic nature of the dial ensures that the watch never looks flat; it changes character throughout the day. The red accents, particularly the date indicator, appear almost floating on the periphery, a modern touch that differentiates this piece from standard vintage reissues.
The technical specifications of the Calibre A-500 are robust and suited for daily wear. It operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), which is the standard for modern precision chronographs. The 60-hour power reserve is generous, allowing the watch to be taken off for a weekend and still be running on Monday morning. The movement contains 26 jewels and is adjusted to ensure accuracy across various positions. The water resistance of 30 meters (3 ATM) is perhaps the only area where the watch leans more towards "dress chronograph" than "diver," suitable for splashes and rain but not intended for swimming. This is consistent with the complexity of the modular case and the pushers, prioritizing aesthetic complexity and material fusion over deep-water sealing.
The choice of "Moka" as a theme is an interesting departure for Angelus, which has often favored skeletal open-working or cooler technical colors in recent years. Brown is a difficult color to get right in watchmaking; if too light, it looks faded; if too dark, it is indistinguishable from black. The specific shade achieved here—rich, saturated, and metallic—strikes a balance that feels luxurious. It taps into a broader trend in the luxury industry towards "warm luxury," moving away from the cold steel and blue dials that dominated the previous decade. It pairs exceptionally well with the resurgence of red gold, but its application on the titanium model is a bold move that pays off by softening the clinical look of the grey metal.
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The carbon composite material used for the inner case container and pushers is not merely aesthetic. It is a functional choice that aids in shock absorption and weight reduction. By machining the movement holder from this composite, Angelus ensures that the caliber is insulated within a rigid, lightweight shell. This construction method allows for the outer "cradle" (the gold or titanium part) to be purely structural and aesthetic, holding the strap and bezel without needing to be the primary water-tight vessel. This modularity is what allows for the complex lug shapes and the seamless integration of different materials, a feat that would be difficult to machine from a single block of metal.
Pricing for the Chronodate Moka reflects the tier of high horology in which Angelus operates, as well as the limited nature of these pieces. The Red Gold edition, limited to just 5 pieces worldwide, commands a premium price of CHF 43,100. This price point accounts for the significant weight of 18-carat gold used in the case and the gold rotor segment, as well as the exclusivity of the very small production run. The Titanium edition, limited to 25 pieces, is priced at CHF 25,100. This places it in a competitive segment of the luxury chronograph market, offering a compelling value proposition given the manufacture movement, the complex case construction, and the rarity of the model.
Case: 42.50 mm diameter by 14.25 mm thick; modular construction featuring a monobloc case middle, bezel, and crown in either 18-carat red gold (5N) or titanium; inner chamber, bezel ring, and pushers crafted from carbon composite; box sapphire crystal with double-sided anti-reflective coating and box sapphire case back; water-resistant to 30 meters (3 bar).
Movement: Angelus Calibre A-500 self-winding mechanical chronograph; 26 jewels; 30.00 mm diameter by 7.90 mm thick; operates at 4 Hz (28,800 vph); 60-hour power reserve; sandblasted and NAC-treated main plate and bridges with circular-grained, rhodium-plated wheels; oscillating weight features a segment in 18-carat red gold (5N) or tungsten depending on the model.
Dial: Sunray-brushed with 'Moka' brown PVD treatment; metallic black snailed counters (30-minute totaliser at 3 o'clock, small seconds at 9 o'clock); appliqué numerals and hands coated with Super-LumiNova; peripheral date display with red openworked arrowhead.
Strap: Interchangeable system; supplied with 'Moka' brown alligator leather and additional black rubber strap; titanium model also available with titanium bracelet; folding clasp in matching 18-carat red gold (5N) or titanium.
Price: CHF 43,100 (Red Gold); CHF 25,100 (Titanium)
Reference Number: 0CDZE.C01A.C1282B (Red Gold); 0CDZF.C01A.C1282E (Titanium)
Notes: Extremely limited production with only 5 pieces available in Red Gold and 25 pieces in Titanium. The design pays homage to the brand's 1942 Chronodate model while utilizing a complex modular case that fuses carbon composite with precious or technical metals.