In the landscape of Swiss manufacturing, certain names stand out not just for their longevity but for their profound impact on design and function. Two such pillars, Zenith in the world of horology and USM Modular Furniture in the realm of interior design, have announced a collaboration that feels both surprising and perfectly inevitable. The result is the Zenith DEFY Chronograph USM, a capsule collection that explores a fascinating question: what if these two icons, born of the same innovative 1960s spirit, had joined forces back when their most revolutionary creations first saw the light of day? This project is more than a simple co-branding exercise; it is a piece of "imagined heritage," a tangible answer to a creative query that bridges the gap between precision timekeeping and architectural modularity.
The collaboration is rooted in a shared moment of historical significance. The 1960s was a decade of profound cultural and technological change, an era that championed bold forms, functional aesthetics, and a forward-thinking vision of modern life. It was during this period that USM, in 1965, patented its groundbreaking Haller modular furniture system, a design that remains a benchmark of versatility and industrial style. Just four years later, in 1969, Zenith unveiled its own revolution: the El Primero, the world's first integrated high-frequency automatic chronograph movement. This new collection imagines a convergence of these two paths, creating a timepiece that feels authentically vintage yet entirely new.
Courtesy of Zenith
The conceptual foundation for this creative endeavor is the original Zenith DEFY model from 1969. Known for its robust and unapologetically angular case, the DEFY was a statement of durability and modern design. Its distinct octagonal silhouette and fourteen-sided bezel already shared a certain geometric DNA with the structural clarity of USM's furniture. The sharp lines, faceted surfaces, and interplay of brushed and polished finishes on the original DEFY made it the perfect canvas for this fusion. However, despite its various iterations, the vintage DEFY was never produced with a chronograph function. This collection rectifies that historical omission.
At its core, the DEFY Chronograph USM is an exploration of this "what if" scenario. It poses that if the DEFY had been fitted with the legendary El Primero movement in 1969, its design might have also drawn inspiration from its contemporary in the world of design, the USM Haller system. The resulting watch is a direct expression of this idea, channeling the aesthetic codes of the era through a modern lens, creating a watch that never existed but feels as if it should have. It is a tribute to the creative minds and visionaries who defined a generation of design across multiple disciplines.
Courtesy of Zenith
The case of the DEFY Chronograph USM remains remarkably faithful to its 1969 predecessor, rendered in stainless steel with a compact and period-correct diameter of 37.3 mm. This size ensures the watch maintains its vintage character on the wrist, avoiding the oversized trend of many modern sports watches. The iconic octagonal main case is topped by the distinctive 14-sided bezel, creating a complex geometry that plays with light. The addition of classic pump-style chronograph pushers flanking the screw-down crown enhances the retro-chronograph silhouette, while a water resistance of 10 ATM (100 meters) provides a level of robustness that honors the DEFY name.
The visual link to USM is most powerfully expressed on the dial, which is offered in four vibrant colors taken directly from the USM Haller signature palette. These are not just approximations; they are USM Green, USM Pure Orange, USM Golden Yellow, and USM Gentian Blue, colors that have defined the iconic furniture for decades. This direct use of the USM colorways creates an immediate and unmistakable connection between the two brands, lending the watch an architectural and industrial feel that is both playful and purposeful.
Courtesy of Zenith
Beyond the striking colors, the dial architecture itself is thoughtfully executed. The three chronograph subdials—a 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, a 12-hour counter at 6, and running small seconds at 9—are rendered in a contrasting silver with a fine concentric circular finish. This azuré pattern adds texture and depth, catching the light in a way that enhances legibility. The applied hour markers are square and feature horizontal grooves, a subtle detail that reinforces the structured, almost architectural character of the overall design. The date window is placed at the 4:30 position, a hallmark of many historical and modern El Primero-powered watches.
A particularly clever and delightful detail can be found on the central chronograph seconds hand. Its tip is adorned with a miniature representation of the iconic USM Haller ball joint, the very component that allows for the furniture's modularity. This tiny sphere is filled with Super-LumiNova, ensuring visibility in low-light conditions. This detail serves as a constant, kinetic reminder of the collaboration's source of inspiration. When the chronograph is activated, this hand sweeps across the dial, revealing another hidden element: a Zenith star logo concealed beneath it when at rest, a playful secret shared between the watch and its owner.
Courtesy of Zenith
Completing the vintage aesthetic is the celebrated "ladder" bracelet. This is not a modern interpretation but a faithful recreation of the bracelet originally designed for Zenith in 1969 by the legendary bracelet manufacturer Gay Frères. Its open-link design is comfortable, allows for air circulation, and perfectly complements the angular case geometry. The combination of the faceted case and the structured ladder bracelet creates a cohesive and integrated design that feels lifted directly from the era it celebrates.
Visible through a sapphire exhibition case-back is the beating heart of the watch: the El Primero 400 calibre. This movement is a direct descendant of the original El Primero from 1969, a caliber that continues to be a benchmark in chronometry more than 55 years after its introduction. Its high frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz) allows the chronograph to measure time with an accuracy of 1/10th of a second, a feat that remains impressive today.
The El Primero 400 is an integrated, column-wheel automatic chronograph movement, a sophisticated architecture favored by watch enthusiasts for its smooth pusher feel and operational reliability. It provides a substantial power reserve of 55 hours and incorporates modern enhancements such as a silicon escape-wheel and lever for improved durability and anti-magnetic properties. The view from the back is not purely functional; the oscillating weight is decorated with a "Côtes de Genève" motif and features an openworked Zenith star, with the logos of both Zenith and USM flanking it to commemorate the partnership.
Courtesy of Zenith
This collaboration is thoughtfully articulated by the leadership of both companies. Benoit de Clerck, CEO of Zenith, notes, "This partnership unites the excellence of Swiss design and horology, embodying a mutual appreciation for enduring, modern aesthetics." He emphasizes that the functional beauty of USM's modular design resonates deeply with Zenith's own dedication to craftsmanship and precision in watchmaking.
Alexander Schärer, CEO of USM, provides further context on their shared heritage. He explains, “Both USM Modular Furniture and ZENITH were founded as owner-driven workshops integrated in a microcosm of Swiss craftsmanship — a shared origin that has naturally guided us toward partnership.” He acknowledges that while their products and industries seem distinct, they are bound by a shared devotion to quality, refined aesthetics, and purposeful functionality.
The presentation of the watch further solidifies the theme of this collaboration. Each timepiece is accompanied by a custom-designed USM Haller timepiece chest created specifically for this limited edition. This is not merely packaging but an extension of the product itself, a piece of the iconic modular furniture perfectly scaled to house the watch. This thoughtful inclusion elevates the entire ownership experience, making it a true collector's set for aficionados of both horology and design.
Courtesy of Zenith
The Zenith DEFY Chronograph USM collection is a testament to the enduring power of good design. It successfully merges the worlds of high-precision watchmaking and iconic industrial furniture, creating something that is at once nostalgic and contemporary. The watch speaks to a specific sensibility, appealing not only to seasoned watch collectors but also to designers, architects, and anyone with an appreciation for the groundbreaking creativity of the 1960s.
This is a highly exclusive release, befitting its unique concept. Each of the four dial colors—USM Gentian Blue (Ref: 03.A780.400/19.M3642), USM Golden Yellow (Ref: 03.A780.400-1/65.M3642), USM Green (Ref: 03.A780.400-2/91.M3642), and USM Pure Orange (Ref: 03.A780.400-3/56.M3642)—is produced in a limited edition of just 60 pieces worldwide. The watch is priced at $11,800 USD, a figure that reflects the quality of the movement, the uniqueness of the design, and the exclusivity of the collaboration.
Case: 37 mm stainless steel case. Octagonal shape with a 14-sided bezel. Screwed-in crown. Water resistance of 10 ATM.
Movement: El Primero 400 automatic column-wheel chronograph. 36,000 VpH (5 Hz) frequency. 55-hour power reserve. Silicon escape-wheel and lever. Oscillating weight with Zenith & USM Logo.
Dial: Available in USM Gentian Blue, USM Golden Yellow, USM Green, or USM Pure Orange. Rhodium-plated, faceted hands and applied square hour markers coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1.
Strap: Stainless steel “ladder” bracelet and buckle.
Price: $11,800 USD; 10,900 CHF; $16,000 CAD
Reference Number: 03.A780.400/19.M3642 (Blue); 03.A780.400-1/65.M3642 (Yellow); 03.A780.400-2/91.M3642 (Green); 03.A780.400-3/56.M3642 (Orange)
Notes: A collaboration between Zenith and USM Modular Furniture. Limited edition of 60 pieces for each dial color. The central chronograph hand is tipped with a miniature USM Haller ball joint.