Zenith introduces a noteworthy addition to its acclaimed CHRONOMASTER line with the Original Acier Lapis Lazuli, a timepiece that combines complex watchmaking with a dial material of distinctive character. This model builds upon the legacy of the 1969 A386 and its subsequent reinterpretations, offering a complete calendar chronograph housed within a classically proportioned steel case, now distinguished by a dial crafted from the deep blue, mineral-rich stone.
The story of Zenith began in 1865 in Le Locle, Switzerland, a place that would become synonymous with Swiss watchmaking ingenuity. Georges Favre-Jacot, the founder, was a visionary who dreamt of creating the most precise and reliable timepieces. His ambition was reflected in the very name he chose for his company, "Zenith," representing the highest point an astronomical body reaches in the sky, a metaphor for the pinnacle of watchmaking achievement he aspired to. This celestial inspiration has remained a guiding light for the brand throughout its history, influencing its designs and its unyielding pursuit of perfection.
Courtesy of Zenith
From its inception, Zenith set itself apart by becoming the first vertically integrated Swiss watch manufacture. This meant that every component of its timepieces, from the initial design sketches to the final assembly of the movement and casing, was handled in-house. This comprehensive control over the production process allowed Zenith to push the boundaries of innovation and maintain an exceptional standard of quality. Over its more than 160-year history, this dedication has been recognized with an astounding 2,333 chronometry prizes, a testament to the enduring precision and reliability of Zenith movements, a record that remains unmatched in the industry.
The year 1969 stands as a monumental milestone in Zenith's history, and indeed, in the annals of horology. It was the year Zenith unveiled the El Primero, the world's first automatic, high-frequency chronograph calibre. This groundbreaking movement, whose name translates to "the first," was a marvel of engineering, beating at an impressive 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz). This high frequency allowed it to measure time with greater precision, specifically down to 1/10th of a second, a capability that set it apart from its contemporaries and cemented Zenith's reputation as a master of the chronograph.
The El Primero was not just a technical achievement; it was a movement that nearly vanished into history. During the quartz crisis of the 1970s, when battery-powered watches threatened the existence of mechanical watchmaking, the tooling and plans for the El Primero were famously saved from destruction by the foresight and bravery of Charles Vermot, a watchmaker at Zenith. His actions ensured that this exceptional calibre would survive to power future generations of Zenith chronographs, and it remains one of the most respected and sought-after movements among watch enthusiasts today, continually evolving while retaining its core high-frequency architecture.
The CHRONOMASTER Original Acier Lapis Lazuli draws upon this rich heritage, particularly the spirit of celestial connection. The choice of lapis lazuli for the dial is a deliberate nod to the cosmos. This semi-precious stone, prized for millennia for its intense, deep blue color, often flecked with golden pyrite inclusions, naturally evokes the image of a star-dusted night sky. The very name Zenith was inspired by the celestial canopy, and this timepiece makes that connection tangible. Each slab of lapis lazuli is unique, its patterns and pyrite speckles formed by nature, ensuring that no two watches in this series will be absolutely identical.
Courtesy of Zenith
Horology itself has deep roots in astronomy, humanity's earliest attempts to measure time being based on the observation of celestial cycles – the rotation of the Earth, the orbit of the moon, and the journey of our planet around the sun. The CHRONOMASTER Original Triple Calendar, in its Lapis Lazuli iteration, beautifully reflects these cosmic rhythms through its comprehensive display of time and calendar functions. The shimmering, gold-toned pyrite inclusions scattered across the blue surface of the dial are like distant stars, adding a unique visual depth to each individual piece and reinforcing the watch's thematic link to the heavens.
The dial itself is a canvas of deep cerulean blue, where the natural character of the lapis lazuli takes center stage. Against this vibrant backdrop, three silver-colored counters provide a clear and contrasting display for the chronograph functions. At 3 o’clock rests the 60-second counter, mirrored by the 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock. The small seconds indication is subtly placed at the 9 o’clock position. A rhodium-plated, faceted central chronograph hand sweeps across the dial, capable of measuring time with remarkable precision. The hour markers are also rhodium-plated and faceted, filled with SuperLuminova SLN C1 for visibility in low-light conditions, as are the main hour and minute hands.
Further enhancing the dial’s functionality are the complete calendar indications. The day of the week is displayed in an aperture positioned at approximately 10 o'clock, while the month is shown in a corresponding aperture near 2 o'clock. The date is discreetly yet clearly presented at the 4:30 position, a placement characteristic of many El Primero calendar models. Integrated within the 60-minute chronograph counter at 6 o'clock is the moonphase display, a charming complication that tracks the lunar cycle, adding another layer of astronomical connection to the watch's functions. The silver-toned chapter ring for the 1/10th of a second scale offers a striking visual contrast and underscores the precision of the movement within.
This intricate dial is housed within a stainless steel case that measures a versatile 38mm in diameter. The case design pays homage to the iconic 1969 Zenith A386, retaining its classic proportions, including the distinctive pump-style chronograph pushers and elegantly tapered lugs. A raised, box-shaped sapphire crystal protects the dial, adding a vintage touch while providing modern scratch resistance. The case thickness is a balanced 14mm, and the lug-to-lug dimension is 46mm, ensuring a comfortable presence on a variety of wrist sizes. The water resistance is rated at 5 ATM, suitable for everyday wear and minor exposure to moisture.
Courtesy of Zenith
Beating at the core of this timepiece is the El Primero 3610 automatic calibre. This movement is a contemporary evolution of Zenith's legendary high-frequency chronograph, further refined to meet modern standards while preserving the spirit of its predecessor. It is composed of 366 individual components, each meticulously finished and assembled. The movement's high frequency of 36,000 VpH (5 Hz) is fundamental to its precision, enabling the chronograph to offer a true 1/10th of a second measurement. This capability is visually demonstrated by the central chronograph hand, which completes a full rotation of the dial in just 10 seconds.
Beyond its impressive chronograph capabilities, the El Primero 3610 offers a substantial power reserve of approximately 60 hours, a practical feature that means the watch can be taken off for a couple of days and still be running when picked up again. It also incorporates a stop-seconds mechanism, allowing the wearer to halt the seconds hand when pulling out the crown, enabling precise time-setting to a reference source. The integration of a triple calendar and moonphase complication into this high-frequency chronograph base is a testament to Zenith's watchmaking prowess.
The chronograph functions are intuitive to operate using the pump-style pushers. The central chronograph hand measures elapsed seconds with 1/10th of a second precision, directly indicated on the peripheral scale. The sub-dial at 3 o’clock tracks elapsed seconds up to 60, while the sub-dial at 6 o’clock accumulates minutes up to 60. This layout is both traditional and highly functional, providing clear readings of timed events. The small seconds at 9 o'clock confirms the watch is running.
Turning the watch over reveals a sapphire display case back, offering an unobstructed view of the El Primero 3610 movement. This exhibition back allows an appreciation of the intricate architecture of the calibre, showcasing its various levers, gears, and springs. Notable features visible include a striking blue column wheel, a key component in high-end chronographs that ensures smooth and precise pusher operation. The openworked oscillating weight, or rotor, is shaped like the Zenith five-pointed star and features satined finishings, winding the mainspring automatically with the motion of the wearer's wrist.
Courtesy of Zenith
The CHRONOMASTER Original Acier Lapis Lazuli is presented with a rich blue calfskin leather strap, perfectly complementing the hue of the dial. This strap is secured with a stainless steel folding clasp, providing both comfort and security. For added versatility, Zenith also includes a matching stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp. This thoughtful inclusion allows the owner to easily change the watch's character, transitioning from a more formal appearance on leather to a sportier look on the bracelet. The interchangeable strap system further enhances this adaptability.
The CHRONOMASTER collection itself stands as a cornerstone of Zenith’s offerings, consistently highlighting the brand's mastery in the realm of high-precision chronographs. These are timepieces that blend historical reverence with contemporary performance, and the Lapis Lazuli edition is a compelling example of this philosophy, adding a unique artisanal touch through its natural stone dial. This particular model follows other notable blue-themed releases, such as the G.F.J. collection and the 160th-anniversary blue ceramic trilogy, underscoring blue's significance as a signature color for the brand, reflecting limitless possibilities and its celestial muse.
Zenith’s commitment to in-house manufacturing remains a core tenet. This vertical integration not only allows for stringent quality control but also fosters a culture of continuous innovation. The brand’s heritage is rich with examples of pioneering spirit, from accompanying Louis Blériot on his historic flight across the English Channel to being on the wrist of Felix Baumgartner during his record-breaking stratospheric free-fall. This daring spirit continues to fuel Zenith's ambitions as it shapes the future of Swiss watchmaking, empowering individuals who challenge conventions.
The reintroduction of the complete calendar chronograph in 2024 as the CHRONOMASTER Original Triple Calendar was a welcome event for enthusiasts, and this Lapis Lazuli version adds another dimension of desirability. It expertly merges the functional complexity of a triple calendar and moonphase with the sporting prowess of a high-frequency chronograph, all presented with a dial that is both visually captivating and uniquely individual.
Courtesy of Zenith
The watch stands as a testament to Zenith's ability to draw inspiration from its past while confidently striding into the future. The combination of the A386-inspired case, the advanced El Primero 3610 movement, and the distinctive lapis lazuli dial creates a package that is both aesthetically pleasing and technically impressive. It’s a timepiece designed for those who appreciate fine mechanics, historical significance, and a touch of natural artistry.
The Zenith CHRONOMASTER Original Acier Lapis Lazuli, with reference number 03.3400.3610/51.C910, is priced at $22,700.00 USD (21,900 CHF / 23,700 Euros). It is available through Zenith boutiques, the brand’s official website, and authorized Zenith retailers worldwide, offering watch aficionados a chance to own a piece that marries celestial beauty with terrestrial precision.
Case: Stainless steel, 38mm diameter, 14mm thickness, 46mm lug to lug, water resistance 5 ATM.
Movement: El Primero 3610 automatic, 366 components, frequency 36,000 VpH (5 Hz), power reserve approx. 60 hours. Features 1/10th of a second chronograph, complete calendar (day, date, month), moonphase indication, small seconds, hours, minutes, and stop-second mechanism.
Dial: Lapis Lazuli with three silver-colored counters. Rhodium-plated, faceted hour markers and hands, coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1.
Strap: Blue calfskin leather strap with steel folding clasp and a matching steel bracelet with folding clasp. Features an interchangeable strap system.
Price: $22,700.00 USD / 21,900 CHF / 23,700 Euros
Reference Number: 03.3400.3610/51.C910
Notes: High-frequency El Primero column-wheel chronograph measures 1/10th of a second. Features complete calendar and moonphase. Each natural Lapis Lazuli dial is unique. Movement has a star-shaped oscillating weight with satined finishings.