URWERK has once again ventured into the annals of history with its latest creation, the UR-100V Time and Culture III. This timepiece is the third installment in a series dedicated to exploring how different civilizations have perceived and recorded the passage of time. Moving beyond the Mesopotamian and Native American inspirations of its predecessors, URWERK now turns its attention to the rich spiritual and artistic heritage of Georgia, resulting in a watch that merges avant-garde mechanics with ancient sacred art.
The foundation of URWERK, established in 1997, is built upon a philosophy of radical innovation, a vision shared by its co-founders, master watchmaker Felix Baumgartner and artistic director Martin Frei. Their stated goal is not to merely refine or reinterpret existing horological complications but to forge entirely new paths in time display. They consciously operate outside the traditional confines of the watchmaking industry, drawing inspiration from a broader cultural and artistic landscape. This approach has positioned URWERK as a leading name in independent watchmaking, a space where creative freedom and mechanical genius converge.
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This commitment to originality is evident in every piece that leaves their workshop. With an annual production intentionally limited to around 150 pieces, URWERK functions as an authentic artisan atelier. It is a place where futuristic design principles are realized through meticulous hand-finishing and the application of advanced materials. This methodology ensures that each watch is not only a complex time-telling instrument but also a distinct piece of mechanical sculpture, adhering to the highest standards of Haute Horlogerie while simultaneously challenging its conventions.
The very name of the brand encapsulates its ethos. "Ur," the first part of URWERK, references the ancient Sumerian city of Ur in Mesopotamia, a place where, some 6,000 years ago, the fundamentals of timekeeping were first established by observing the sun's shadow. "Ur" also translates from German as "origin" or "beginning." The second part, "werk," is the German verb for to work, create, and innovate. Together, the name signifies a dedication to creating novel works rooted in the very origins of timekeeping, a tribute to the generations of watchmakers who laid the groundwork for the craft.
The "Time and Culture" collection is a direct expression of this philosophy. It serves as a horological journey, a series of meditations on the diverse ways humanity has sought to measure and understand time. Each watch in the series is a dialogue between URWERK's contemporary mechanical language and the symbolic systems of a specific culture. The UR-100V Time and Culture III continues this exploration, carrying its audience to the heart of Georgian Orthodox tradition, a realm where faith, history, and art are inextricably linked.
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At the core of this new creation is an extraordinary artistic collaboration with the David Kakabadze studio, based in Tbilisi, Georgia. The resulting watch is a singular masterpiece, a pièce unique that showcases a level of artistry rarely seen in modern watchmaking. The decoration on the dome of the UR-100V is a breathtaking display of 24K cloisonné enamel and miniature painting, an intricate process that required an astounding 1,152 days to complete. This meticulous work involved the application of nineteen different enamel colors and sixteen separate firings in a kiln at 750°C, a testament to the immense skill and patience of the Kakabadze atelier artisans.
Visually, the watch is immediately striking. The case, crafted from a warm and lustrous 2N 18K yellow gold, possesses a distinctive octagonal shape that has become a hallmark of URWERK design. It provides a rich, substantial frame for the spectacle that unfolds beneath the prominent sapphire crystal dome. The deep blue Alcantara and leather strap offers a powerful contrast to the radiance of the gold, creating a composition that is both bold and harmonious.
The true focal point, however, is the intricate artwork that covers the dome. Inspired by a fragment of the zodiac wall frescoes found in the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, a cornerstone of Georgian cultural and religious heritage, the design is a miniature icon. A central figure of Christ, rendered in vibrant reds and blues, holds a book and makes a gesture of blessing. This figure is encircled by twelve celestial symbols, each meticulously painted within its own ornate cartouche. These symbols represent the twelve cycles of time that govern both the heavens and the liturgical calendar: the twelve months of the year, the twelve hours on a dial, and the twelve constellations of the zodiac.
The story that inspired this artwork is deeply woven into the fabric of Georgian identity. It begins with a man named Elias, who, according to legend, was present at the Crucifixion and brought the robe of Christ back to his home in Georgia. Upon his return, his sister, Sidonia, touched the sacred garment and was so overcome with emotion that she died instantly, clutching it in her hands. As she could not be separated from the robe, she was buried with it. From her grave, a great cedar tree grew, which was later felled to build the nation's first church. This narrative imbues the watch with a profound sense of history and spirituality.
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The UR-100V Time and Culture III is therefore presented as a horological manifesto, a point of convergence where contemporary mechanics enter into a dialogue with ancient faith and tradition. It becomes a vessel for memory, a "time capsule," as the creators describe it, where the mechanical ticking of seconds is transformed into a radiant echo of a story that has spanned millennia. Every glance at the dial is an invitation to contemplate not just the current hour, but the deep cultural and spiritual currents that have shaped our understanding of time itself.
Beneath this magnificent artistic display beats the heart of the watch: the self-winding Caliber UR 12.02. This movement is a testament to URWERK's technical prowess, featuring the brand's signature satellite complication for its wandering hour display. Instead of conventional hands, three satellite arms, each bearing four-hour numerals, revolve on a central carousel. As one satellite completes its 60-minute journey along the arched track at the bottom of the dial, the next satellite seamlessly swings into position to indicate the following hour.
This complex mechanism is governed by a Windfänger airscrew, a specialized component that regulates the efficiency of the automatic winding system, protecting it from excessive wear or shock. The movement itself is a showcase of advanced materials, featuring aluminum for the satellite hours, which are mounted on beryllium-bronze Geneva crosses. The carousel and the triple baseplates are constructed from ARCAP, a non-magnetic and corrosion-resistant alloy favored in high-end watchmaking for its stability and durability.
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The finishing of the Caliber UR 12.02 is executed to the highest standards, with a variety of techniques applied to its components. Surfaces exhibit circular satin brushing, sand-blasting, shot-blasting, and circular graining, creating a visually complex and technically sophisticated appearance. The screw heads are polished to a mirror finish, and the hour and minute indications are hand-painted with Super-LumiNova, ensuring excellent legibility in low-light conditions. The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and provides a reliable power reserve of 48 hours.
The case construction is robust and precisely engineered. Measuring 41 mm in width, 49.70 mm in length, and 14 mm in thickness, the 18K yellow gold case makes a confident statement on the wrist. The complex geometry of the octagonal form is perfectly machined, with sharp lines and smooth curves that reflect light in dynamic ways. The entire assembly is protected by a custom-domed sapphire crystal that allows an unobstructed view of the dial and wandering hour complication. The watch is pressure-tested to 3ATM, equivalent to a water resistance of 30 meters, suitable for protecting against everyday splashes.
The choice of strap material complements the overall design narrative. The combination of supple leather and technical Alcantara in a deep blue hue provides both comfort and a modern aesthetic touch. It is fastened with a pin buckle also crafted from 2N 18K yellow gold, ensuring a cohesive look and feel throughout the piece. Every detail, from the case construction to the strap, has been considered to create a unified and compelling whole.
The collaboration with the Kakabadze studio is central to the identity of this watch. It highlights a meeting of two different worlds of craftsmanship: the high-tech, precision-driven world of Swiss independent watchmaking and the patient, centuries-old tradition of Georgian enamel work. The 1,152-day period required for the dial's creation is a powerful statistic that underscores the human element and dedication involved, a stark contrast to the mass-production ethos that defines much of the modern world.
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This timepiece is a singular creation, designated as a pièce unique. Its exclusivity is absolute; there is only one in existence. This fact elevates it from a luxury product to a genuine work of art, a collector's item of the highest order. It represents a unique confluence of vision, skill, and storytelling that cannot be replicated.
As is customary for a timepiece of this caliber and rarity, the URWERK UR-100V Time and Culture III is offered with its price available only upon request. This practice acknowledges that its value is not merely a function of its materials and mechanics, but of its unique artistic and cultural significance. It is a watch destined for a discerning collector who appreciates not only the frontiers of horological innovation but also the profound and enduring power of human history and belief.
Case: 2N 18K yellow gold. Dimensions: 41mm width, 49.70mm length, 14mm thickness. Sapphire crystal. Water resistance is pressure-tested at 3ATM (30m).
Movement: Self-winding Caliber UR 12.02 governed by a Windfänger airscrew. Contains 40 jewels, runs at 28,800 v/h (4Hz) with a 48-hour power reserve. Features an aluminium carousel and satellite hours on beryllium-bronze Geneva crosses.
Dial: Displays satellite hours and minutes. Features a dome crafted from 24-carat gold with cloisonné enamel and miniature painting. Hour and minute indications are painted with Super-LumiNova.
Strap: Blue Alcantara and leather strap with a 2N 18K yellow gold pin buckle.
Price: Price on request.
Reference Number: Pièce unique.
Notes: This is a unique piece. The enamel and miniature painting on the dial took 1,152 days to create, involving 19 different enamel colors and 16 separate firings in a kiln.