The annals of watchmaking contain names that resonate with a quiet authority, brands whose contributions have shaped the very course of horology. Urban Jürgensen, founded in Copenhagen in 1773, is one such name. For over two and a half centuries, this Maison has navigated the currents of time, producing instruments of exceptional precision and understated beauty. After a period of relative quiet, Urban Jürgensen has re-emerged, propelled by new family ownership and a leadership team poised to guide it into a third golden age. This revival is not merely a re-release of past glories but a profound reaffirmation of the brand’s foundational values, embodied in a completely new collection of timepieces.
The history of Urban Jürgensen is a story of ingenuity and royal patronage. Jürgen Jürgensen established the workshop, but it was his son, Urban, who elevated the family name to international renown. A student of the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet, Urban Jürgensen possessed a rare combination of scientific acumen and artistic sensibility. His marine chronometers were vital instruments for the Danish Navy, celebrated for their reliability and precision. Simultaneously, his pocket watches, with their distinct Scandinavian design principles, became coveted by the Danish royal court and connoisseurs across Europe. The brand's influence often worked subtly, shaping the high standards of the industry from behind the scenes.
Courtesy of Urban Jürgensen
A second significant era for the brand unfolded between the 1980s and the 2000s under the stewardship of Peter Baumberger. During this period, the technical direction of the masterful British watchmaker Derek Pratt brought forth creations that were admired for their mechanical sophistication and sheer aesthetic purity. This generation solidified Urban Jürgensen’s reputation among a discerning clientele who valued uncompromising craftsmanship over fleeting trends. Now, the Maison begins a new chapter, one that honors its rich past while boldly stepping into the future.
This new era is guided by the complementary visions of its Co-CEOs, Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield. Voutilainen, one of the most decorated and respected independent watchmakers of his generation, returns to a brand that was formative in his early career. He now oversees all technical development, design, and production, ensuring that every timepiece meets his exacting standards. His profound respect for the craft is palpable, viewing his role as a duty to uphold the legacy of horological excellence that Urban himself established. He is the technical soul of the revived manufacture, the guarantor of its mechanical integrity.
On the other side of this partnership is Alex Rosenfield, a former executive in the realms of fashion and media. Rosenfield brings a collector’s passion and a storyteller’s skill to the brand’s global strategy, operations, and creative direction. His focus is on preserving the fierce independence of the house while introducing its unique philosophy to a new generation of watch lovers. He understands that a watch is not just a collection of parts, but an object with a narrative, a vessel for the values it represents. Together, Voutilainen and Rosenfield are the stewards of this grand revival, balancing technical mastery with a clear, contemporary voice.
Courtesy of Urban Jürgensen
Within the inaugural 2025 collection, the Urban Jürgensen UJ-2 stands as a powerful statement of the brand’s core philosophy. It is a three-hand watch, a seemingly simple complication, yet it is executed with a level of mechanical and artistic detail that elevates it to the extraordinary. It serves as a testament to the belief that the pursuit of perfection is a worthy goal in itself and that even the most fundamental act of time-telling can be a source of profound satisfaction. The UJ-2 is the embodiment of the Maison's approach: what other brands might reserve for a limited, pinnacle creation, Urban Jürgensen establishes as its foundational standard.
The visual identity of the UJ-2 is one of refined complexity and deep textural beauty. Offered in either 950 platinum or 5N rose gold, the 39mm case immediately strikes a chord of classical proportion. The gaze is drawn to the reinterpreted Jürgensen teardrop lugs, a signature of the brand, which are stepped and polished, creating a dynamic play of light as the watch moves. These lugs are not merely functional attachments for the strap; they are sculptural elements that define the character of the watch, flowing seamlessly from the case middle.
Further inspection of the case reveals a meticulous attention to finishing. The bezel is a stepped design, with alternating polished and satin-polished surfaces that create a subtle and sophisticated frame for the dial. The case middle itself is satin-polished, providing a soft contrast to the brilliance of the bezel and lugs. This thoughtful application of different textures demonstrates a mastery of case-making, transforming the metal into a canvas of light and shadow. The fluted, non-screwed crown, engraved with the UJ insignia, is perfectly proportioned, ensuring tactile pleasure with every interaction.
Turning the watch over reveals a case back that is as considered as the front. A sapphire crystal exhibition window allows a view into the heart of the timepiece, but it is the surrounding metal that captivates. The case back is adorned with hand-guilloché in a circular Grain d’orge, or "barleycorn," pattern. This intricate, traditional decorative craft adds a layer of artistry to a part of the watch that is often overlooked. It is a private pleasure for the owner, a testament to the brand's commitment to finishing every surface, seen or unseen, to the highest possible standard.
Courtesy of Urban Jürgensen
The dial of the UJ-2 is a masterpiece of traditional craftsmanship. Crafted from a solid silver base, it is offered in a deep, galvanic blue or a classic light silver. The layout is thoughtfully asymmetrical, with the main dial for the hours and minutes offset from the center. The periphery of this main dial is decorated with a hand-guilloché circular Grain d’orge pattern, echoing the case back and creating a beautiful, shimmering texture. An applied chapter ring in either silver or 5N rose gold, with a satin-polished finish, frames this central display, providing clear delineation for the time.
At the 5 o’clock position rests the small seconds sub-dial, a feature that adds a dynamic element to the dial's composition. This auxiliary dial features its own distinct hand-guilloché pattern, a Clous de Paris 45°, or "hobnail," design. This contrasting texture provides visual depth and separates the indication of the seconds from the primary time display. Like the main dial, it is encircled by an applied, satin-polished surround. This layering of textures and finishes gives the dial a remarkable sense of dimension and life.
Completing the dial's indications is a fractional power reserve indicator, discreetly placed at the 12 o’clock position. This useful complication allows the wearer to know how much of the 52-hour power reserve remains, ensuring the watch is wound when needed. The hands themselves are a signature of the brand: the flame-blued steel Jürgensen hands. This traditional process of heating the steel to achieve a specific, vibrant blue hue requires immense skill and results in hands that are both highly legible against the dial and objects of beauty in their own right.
Courtesy of Urban Jürgensen
At the heart of the UJ-2 beats the in-house Caliber UJ-2, a hand-wound movement that is both technically advanced and exquisitely finished. Plated in 5N rose gold, the 32mm movement is a spectacle of horological art. Its most significant feature is the direct double wheel natural escapement. This sophisticated mechanism, inspired by a concept from Urban Jürgensen’s own mentor, Abraham-Louis Breguet, represents a significant advancement over the ubiquitous Swiss lever escapement.
The natural escapement utilizes two escape wheels that provide direct impulses to the balance, resulting in a more efficient transfer of energy. This system is inherently more complex to design, manufacture, and regulate, which is why it is so rarely seen in serial production. Urban Jürgensen's decision to feature it in the UJ-2 speaks volumes about the brand’s technical ambitions. The tangible benefit for the wearer is a more stable and efficient movement, contributing to its consistent performance throughout its 52-hour power reserve.
The regulation of the movement is handled by a free-sprung balance, a feature common in high-end chronometers, which allows for finer and more stable adjustments to the rate. The balance oscillates at a traditional frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), a stately pace that allows the intricate dance of the double wheel escapement to be fully appreciated. This slower beat rate is a nod to classical watchmaking, a deliberate choice in an era often obsessed with high-frequency movements.
The philosophy of the Maison is perhaps best expressed through the finishing of the Caliber UJ-2. Every component, whether visible through the sapphire case back or hidden within the mechanism, is finished by hand to an extraordinary degree. The bridges feature Grenage, a traditional frosting technique that gives the surface a subtle, granular texture. Other components are decorated with perlage (circular graining) and domed chamfering (angling), which involves creating a rounded, polished edge on the components. All screws are mirror-polished, and the wheels are satin-polished, creating a stunning visual tapestry of different finishes.
Courtesy of Urban Jürgensen
This relentless dedication to hand-finishing is not merely for aesthetic purposes; it is a core part of the watchmaking tradition that Urban Jürgensen champions. It is a process that imbues the mechanical object with a human touch, a soul. It reflects the belief that doing things the right way, no matter how much effort is required, is the key to creating something of lasting worth. The 565 hours required to complete each UJ-2 is a testament to this philosophy, a clear statement that excellence cannot be rushed.
The UJ-2 is secured to the wrist by a hand-stitched strap made from ethically sourced alligator leather. The strap is lined with soft calfskin for enhanced comfort, ensuring that the experience of wearing the watch is as pleasing as viewing it. It represents a commitment to quality that extends to every single component, no matter how small. The strap is fastened with a classic pin buckle, crafted from the same precious metal as the case—either 950 platinum or 5N rose gold—ensuring a cohesive and luxurious presentation.
The UJ-2 does not exist in a vacuum; it is the cornerstone of the broader 2025 collection that marks the brand's relaunch. This collection also includes the UJ-1, a remarkable anniversary watch that miniaturizes the tourbillon movement with remontoir d’égalité and dead-beat seconds from an iconic Derek Pratt pocket watch into a wristwatch. Additionally, the UJ-3 perpetual calendar, developed with master watchmaker Andreas Strehler, uniquely combines a Strehler precise moon phase with the brand's double wheel natural escapement. The UJ-2, as the three-hand model, provides the most direct and pure expression of the brand’s new direction.
Courtesy of Urban Jürgensen
Urban Jürgensen’s new chapter is also marked by a fresh approach to its storytelling. The brand has introduced a portrait series titled "Time Well Spent," created with the renowned photographer Ellen von Unwerth. This series moves away from traditional watch advertising, instead capturing creative individuals immersed in their passions. It is a campaign that focuses on the ethos of the brand—the idea of time being spent beautifully and meaningfully—rather than just the product itself. This reflects a deep understanding of the modern luxury consumer, who seeks connection and narrative as much as quality and craftsmanship.
The Urban Jürgensen UJ-2 is available in four distinct references, allowing for a choice between a 950 platinum or 5N rose gold case, each paired with either a light silver or a deep blue dial. The model numbers are UJ-2-PT-S-001 (Platinum, Silver Dial), UJ-2-PT-B-001 (Platinum, Blue Dial), UJ-1-RG-S-001 (Rose Gold, Silver Dial), and UJ-1-RG-B-001 (Rose Gold, Blue Dial). The price is set at CHF 105,000, and the availability of these watches will be naturally limited by the sheer amount of time and skill required to produce each one, making them truly exclusive objects for those who appreciate the profound beauty of time kept perfectly.
Case: 950 platinum or 5N rose gold; 39mm diameter, 10.9mm thickness. Stepped polished and satin-polished bezel with reinterpreted teardrop lugs. Domed sapphire crystal, exhibition case back with hand guilloché, 30m water resistance.
Movement: In-house Caliber UJ-2, hand-wound with 52-hour power reserve. Features a direct double wheel natural escapement with a free-sprung balance, 32 jewels, 18,000 vph frequency. Hand-finished with Grenage, perlage, and chamfering.
Dial: Solid silver with galvanic color treatment (blue or light silver). Offset hours/minutes, power reserve at 12, small seconds at 5. Hand-guilloché finishes (Grain d’orge and Clous de Paris 45°). Flame-blued Jürgensen hands.
Strap: Hand-stitched, ethically sourced alligator leather with calfskin lining. Pin buckle in matching 950 platinum or 5N rose gold.
Price: CHF 105,000
Reference Number: UJ-2-PT-S-001 (Platinum, Silver Dial); UJ-2-PT-B-001 (Platinum, Blue Dial); UJ-1-RG-S-001 (Rose Gold, Silver Dial); UJ-1-RG-B-001 (Rose Gold, Blue Dial)
Notes: The double wheel natural escapement is inspired by an 18th-century concept from Abraham-Louis Breguet and perfected by Kari Voutilainen. Each timepiece takes an extensive 565 hours to complete.