Urban Jurgensen UJ-1

In the esteemed annals of watchmaking, certain names resonate with a gravity earned over centuries of dedication to the craft. Urban Jürgensen, founded in Copenhagen in 1773, is one such name. For over two and a half centuries, the maison has represented a quiet, confident pursuit of horological perfection, from producing exacting marine chronometers for the Danish Navy to crafting exquisite pocket watches for royalty. Now, under new stewardship and with a revitalized vision, the brand has embarked on what can only be described as its third golden age, heralded by a timepiece of profound historical and technical significance: the Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Anniversary Watch.



The story of the UJ-1 is inextricably linked to the legacy of the brand’s previous generation of leadership, particularly the partnership between its former owner, Peter Baumberger, and the legendary English watchmaker, Derek Pratt. Together, they embarked on a monumental project that would become a cult classic among horological cognoscenti: the Urban Jürgensen Pratt Oval Pocket Watch. This creation was not merely a time-telling device; it was an intricate mechanical sculpture, a testament to what was possible at the highest echelons of watchmaking. The project was so ambitious that it spanned nearly two decades, a slow and deliberate burn of creative and technical energy.



At the core of the Oval Pocket Watch was a movement of immense complexity, featuring a tourbillon, a remontoir d’égalité, and dead-beat seconds. It was a mechanical symphony that captured the very essence of precision timekeeping. For years, the idea of translating this large, intricate pocket watch caliber into the constrained dimensions of a wristwatch was considered a horological fantasy, a challenge so daunting that it remained an unfulfilled dream for collectors and watchmakers alike. The UJ-1, however, turns this long-held dream into a tangible reality.



This ambitious undertaking is guided by a new leadership team that provides a direct and personal link to the brand’s storied past. Co-CEO Kari Voutilainen is a name that commands immense respect in the world of independent watchmaking, a craftsman with a staggering eleven Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève awards to his name. His connection to Urban Jürgensen is not a recent development. Years ago, when Derek Pratt was no longer able to complete the work on the original Oval project, it was Voutilainen whom Peter Baumberger trusted to see the complex task through to its conclusion. His return to the brand is a homecoming, a continuation of a narrative he helped write.



Sharing the Helm is Co-CEO Alex Rosenfield, a former fashion and media executive whose collector’s eye and strategic acumen are focused on shaping the brand’s global presence. His role is to ensure that the soul of Urban Jürgensen—its independence, its commitment to handcraft, and its rich history—is communicated clearly to a new generation of enthusiasts. Together, Voutilainen and Rosenfield are not merely reviving a name; they are reinvigorating a philosophy, one encapsulated in the idea of "Time Well Spent," where the beauty of the instrument inspires a deeper appreciation for the moments it measures.



The UJ-1 is the physical manifestation of this philosophy. Billed as the 250th Anniversary Watch, it is far more than a commemorative piece. It is a bridge connecting the brand’s historical achievements with its future aspirations. The watch does not seek to replicate the past but to reimagine it for the wrist. It takes the spirit and the mechanical genius of the Pratt Oval Pocket Watch and adapts it, a process of miniaturization and re-engineering that represents a significant milestone in modern horology. Every component is a testament to the patient, painstaking artistry that defines the highest level of watchmaking.



Visually, the UJ-1 presents a study in harmonious design and meticulous finishing. The case, measuring a contemporary 39.5mm in diameter and 12.2mm in thickness, is crafted from either 950 platinum or 5N rose gold. Its construction is a complex interplay of surfaces. A stepped bezel, with alternating polished and satin-polished finishes, frames the dial, creating a dynamic dance of light. The case middle features a fine satin polish, providing a subtle contrast that enhances the overall architecture of the watch.



Perhaps one of the most distinctive features of an Urban Jürgensen timepiece is its lugs, and the UJ-1 presents a masterful reinterpretation of the iconic teardrop design. These are not simple attachments but sculptural elements that flow organically from the case. Their stepped and polished form is a signature of the brand, a detail that is instantly recognizable to the discerning collector and speaks to a design language refined over generations. The lugs are set at a width of 20mm, providing a balanced stance on the wrist.



The dial of the UJ-1 is where the brand’s mastery of traditional decorative arts is most vividly expressed. The dial itself is a solid silver plate, which is then given its final color—either a luminous light silver or a deep, contemplative grey—through a galvanic treatment. The surface is not flat but is a canvas for exquisite hand-guilloché. The main portion of the dial is adorned with a linear Grain d’orge, or barleycorn pattern, a classic motif that requires immense skill and a steady hand to execute perfectly. This intricate engraving creates a texture that captures and refracts light in a way that flat surfaces never could.



Further texture and depth are added through the subsidiary dials. At the 6 o’clock position, a small seconds display is recessed and finished with a contrasting Clous de Paris 45° pattern, a hobnail design that adds another layer of geometric complexity. This sub-dial, along with the main chapter ring, is framed by an applied surround in either silver or 5N rose gold, which has been satin-polished to a soft sheen. Balancing the composition at 12 o’clock is a discreet fractional power reserve indicator, providing a practical function without disrupting the dial's serene aesthetic.



No description of an Urban Jürgensen watch would be complete without mentioning the hands. The UJ-1 features the signature Jürgensen hands, which are painstakingly crafted and then flame-blued to a brilliant, iridescent cobalt hue. Their unique design, with the elegantly shaped eye of the hour hand, is another hallmark of the brand, a testament to the belief that every single detail, no matter how small, contributes to the character of the whole. A domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective treatment protects this intricate dial work, while the case back also features a sapphire crystal, offering an uninterrupted view of the spectacular movement within, framed by a hand-guilloché circular Grain d’orge pattern on the case back metal itself.



At the heart of the UJ-1 beats the Caliber UJ-1, an entirely in-house, hand-wound movement that is the technical and spiritual core of the watch. Plated in warm 5N rose gold, the caliber measures 30mm in diameter and 8.17mm in height. Its architecture is a direct descendant of Derek Pratt’s legendary pocket watch movement, now brilliantly adapted for the wrist. The movement incorporates a formidable trio of horological complications that work in concert to achieve superior timekeeping performance.



The most visually captivating of these complications is the one-minute flying tourbillon. Unlike a traditional tourbillon supported by a bridge on both sides, a flying tourbillon is cantilevered, supported only from below. This construction provides a completely unobstructed view of the rotating cage, which houses the balance wheel and escapement, as it completes a full rotation every 60 seconds. This constant rotation is designed to average out and mitigate the effect of gravity on the regulating organ, thus improving accuracy.



Working in tandem with the tourbillon is a remontoir d’égalité, a constant-force mechanism that is a true mark of high horology. In a standard watch movement, the energy delivered by the mainspring to the escapement varies as the spring unwinds. The remontoir solves this problem by inserting a small, secondary spring between the gear train and the escapement. This small spring is rewound at frequent, regular intervals by the mainspring, ensuring that the energy reaching the balance wheel is virtually constant, regardless of the mainspring's state of wind. This results in a more stable amplitude and therefore more precise timekeeping.



The power for this intricate system is delivered by a flying barrel, which is paired with a Geneva stop-work mechanism to prevent over-winding. The Caliber UJ-1 boasts a power reserve of 47 hours and operates at a traditional frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour, or 2.5 Hz. This slower beat rate is a nod to classic watchmaking and allows for a clearer appreciation of the movement’s mechanical ballet. The regulation is achieved through a Swiss lever escapement, a balance wheel with micrometric timing screws for fine adjustment, and a hairspring featuring a Phillips terminal curve for improved isochronism.



The finishing of the Caliber UJ-1 is, as expected, executed to the highest possible standard, all by hand. The bridges and plates are adorned with techniques such as Grenage, a traditional frosting finish, and Perlage, or circular graining. The edges of all components feature a broad, domed chamfering, polished to a mirror shine, a process that requires incredible skill and countless hours of work. Even the screws are mirror-polished, and the wheels are satin-polished, completing a movement that is as beautiful to behold as it is technically sophisticated.



Completing the watch is a hand-stitched strap made from ethically sourced alligator leather, which is lined with soft calfskin for exceptional comfort on the wrist. The strap is secured with a classic pin buckle, crafted from the same material as the case—either 950 platinum or 5N rose gold—ensuring a cohesive and refined presentation from every angle.



The Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 is being released in three distinct references, each limited to an exceptionally small series of just 25 pieces, making for a total production of only 75 watches worldwide. The references are the UJ-1-PT-S-001, featuring a platinum case with a light silver dial; the UJ-1-PT-G-001, which pairs the platinum case with a striking grey dial; and the UJ-1-RG-S-001, which offers the warm tones of a rose gold case with the light silver dial.



With its profound historical connections, immense technical achievements, and superlative hand-craftsmanship, the UJ-1 stands as a powerful statement of intent from the newly relaunched Urban Jürgensen. It is a watch that honors the legacy of Pratt and Baumberger while being unequivocally a creation of Kari Voutilainen’s vision.



The pricing for the Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 is set at CHF 368,000. This places it in the upper echelons of modern watchmaking, a position justified by the extraordinary level of artistry, technical innovation, and extreme exclusivity it represents. For the 75 collectors who will have the privilege of owning one, the UJ-1 will be a profound connection to watchmaking history and a stunning example of its vibrant future. It is a masterpiece that encapsulates the very soul of a brand reborn.



Case: 950 platinum or 5N rose gold; 39.5mm diameter, 12.2mm thickness; stepped and polished bezel, reinterpreted teardrop lugs; domed sapphire crystal front, sapphire exhibition case back with hand-guilloché surround; water resistance 3 ATM (30 meters).

Movement: In-house Caliber UJ-1, hand-wound; 30mm diameter, 8.17mm height; 32 jewels, 47-hour power reserve, 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz) frequency; one-minute flying tourbillon with remontoir d’égalité constant-force mechanism; flying barrel with Geneva stop-work; extensive hand-finishing including Grenage and perlage.

Dial: Solid silver with galvanic color treatment (light silver or grey); central hours and minutes, small seconds at 6 o'clock, fractional power reserve at 12 o'clock; hand-guilloché Grain d’orge and Clous de Paris patterns; flame-blued Jürgensen hands.

Strap: Hand-stitched, ethically sourced alligator leather with a soft calfskin lining; 950 platinum or 5N rose gold pin buckle.

Price: CHF 368,000

Reference Number: UJ-1-PT-S-001; UJ-1-PT-G-001; UJ-1-RG-S-001

Notes: The 250th Anniversary watch miniaturizes the legendary Urban Jürgensen Derek Pratt Oval Pocket Watch movement into a wristwatch for the first time. It features a tourbillon, remontoir d’égalité, and dead-beat seconds. Limited to 75 total pieces (25 per reference).