The intersection of Italian industrial design and Los Angeles avant-garde fashion has produced a sequel that embraces the darkness of the modern horological landscape. UNIMATIC, the Milan-based watchmaker known for its rigorous adherence to minimalist utility, has reunited with Maxfield, the legendary boutique on Melrose Avenue, to create the Modello Tre U3S-M. This collaboration represents a distinct departure from the colorful or vintage-inspired releases often seen in the limited edition space, opting instead for a monochromatic discipline that turns the mechanical chronograph into an object of stealth. It is a watch that refuses to shout, preferring to absorb light rather than reflect it, a philosophy that aligns perfectly with the curatorial history of Maxfield and the architectural austerity of UNIMATIC.
To understand the gravity of this release, one must first understand the institution that is Maxfield. Established in 1969 by Tommy Perse, the boutique is not merely a retail space but a cultural landmark that helped define the Los Angeles aesthetic. While the city is often associated with bright lights and Hollywood glamour, Maxfield introduced a darker, more sophisticated grunge sensibility. It was the gateway for Japanese deconstructionist designers like Yohji Yamamoto and the intellectual fashion of Comme des Garçons to enter the West Coast consciousness. The store is a curated gallery where vintage Hermès handbags sit comfortably alongside taxidermy and mid-century furniture. This specific release draws heavily on that legacy—it is a watch that feels like it belongs in a vitrine of rare curiosities, an artifact of industrial manufacturing that has been dipped in shadow to strip away everything but its essential form.
Courtesy of UNIMATIC
UNIMATIC, founded in 2015 by Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato, provides the perfect canvas for this aesthetic direction. Both founders were trained as industrial designers at the Politecnico di Milano, and their approach to watchmaking shuns the decorative flourishes that often clutter luxury timepieces. Their design language is rooted in a desire to subtract rather than add. The Modello Tre platform, which serves as the base for this collaboration, is their take on the chronograph. Yet, unlike traditional racing chronographs that prioritize high-contrast legibility for track side calculations, the U3S-M prioritizes form and atmosphere. It transforms the busy interface of a two-register chronograph into a study of texture and tone, challenging the wearer to engage with the object on a tactile level as much as a visual one.
The visual profile of the Modello Tre U3S-M is dominated by its absolute commitment to black. This is not the glossy, reflective black of ceramic dress watches, but a rugged, sandblasted finish achieved through a Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coating applied to 316L stainless steel. The case measures 40mm in diameter, though the bezel expands this footprint slightly to 41.5mm, creating a visual overhang that gives the watch a distinct architectural presence. The sandblasting process knocks back the shine of the steel, resulting in a matte surface that feels nearly organic to the touch, akin to a stone worn smooth by a river. This finish is crucial to the watch's character; it lends the piece a tactical, military-grade appearance while simultaneously serving the high-fashion ethos of Maxfield.
The bezel itself is a sterile component, devoid of the tachymeter scales or minute markers found on standard chronographs. This omission is a signature UNIMATIC move, reinforcing the idea that this is a design object first and a tool second. By removing the markings, the focus shifts entirely to the material and the shape. The bezel insert is aluminum, treated with the same black finish to ensure continuity with the case. It frames the dial without distraction, creating a deep, brutalist amphitheater for the time-telling functions. The absence of numerals on the bezel also changes the perceived size of the watch, making the dial aperture feel more significant and open.
Underneath the 2.5mm thick double-domed sapphire crystal, the dial continues the theme of "black on black" with a matte index design that requires close inspection to appreciate. The dial surface is a flat, matte black that absorbs incident light, preventing the glare that often plagues dark dials. The hour markers are present but subdued, rendered in a slightly different textural tone or "off-black" to provide just enough contrast for legibility without breaking the monochromatic scheme. There is a phantom-like quality to the display; in low light, the markers seem to disappear, only revealing themselves when the light catches the dial at the correct angle. This demands interaction from the user, turning the act of checking the time into a deliberate gesture.
Courtesy of UNIMATIC
The chronograph layout is a classic bi-compax arrangement, with subdials positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock. These subsidiary dials feature concentric circular graining, a subtle detail that adds depth and separates them from the main dial plate. The subdial at 9 o’clock serves as the running seconds indicator, while the register at 3 o’clock tracks elapsed minutes up to thirty. Even the printing on the dial is kept to a minimum, with the UNIMATIC logo and "Made in Italy" text rendered in a stealthy, tonal grey that barely lifts off the background. It is an exercise in restraint, rejecting the urge to plaster the dial with branding or technical claims.
The handset chosen for the U3S-M is particularly striking and aligns with the industrial DNA of the brand. The hour and minute hands feature a ladder skeleton design, a layout where the body of the hand is segmented with open spaces. These are finished in matte black, matching the dial, which creates a floating effect as they sweep across the face. The seconds hand, often the most active element on a watch dial, is a reverse lollipop style with an off-black tip. This specific design choice—skeletonizing the main hands—allows the texture of the subdials to remain visible even when the hands pass over them, maintaining the visual integrity of the chronograph registers.
Functionality is driven by the screw-down pushers and crown, features that significantly bolster the watch's utility. While many chronographs are content with 50 or 100 meters of water resistance, UNIMATIC engineers the Modello Tre to achieve a depth rating of 300 meters (1000 feet). This is accomplished through the use of robust seals and the screw-down mechanism for both the winding crown and the chronograph pushers. The pushers themselves are massive, measuring 5.5mm, and require the user to unscrew them before the chronograph can be engaged. This physical interaction reinforces the tool-watch capability of the piece, ensuring that accidental activation cannot occur underwater. The crown is an oversized 8mm component, offering excellent grip for setting the time and winding the movement.
Powering this dark monolith is the Sellita SW510 BH b automatic caliber. This is a Swiss-made movement renowned for its reliability and robustness. It beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and provides a hacking seconds function, allowing for precise time synchronization. One of the standout features of this movement is its extended power reserve, which clocks in at approximately 62 hours. This "weekend-proof" capability means the watch can be taken off on Friday evening and picked up on Monday morning without needing to be reset. For a collector who rotates through multiple timepieces, this practical extended reserve is a significant quality-of-life feature.
Courtesy of UNIMATIC
The movement is not hidden away behind a solid wall of steel; instead, the U3S-M features a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback. This is a rare treat for a watch with 300 meters of water resistance, as exhibition backs often introduce structural weaknesses that engineers prefer to avoid in dive-capable watches. UNIMATIC has managed to maintain the integrity of the seal while showcasing the mechanics within. The rotor has been customized with specific Maxfield engraving, a detail that marks the exclusivity of the collaboration. Seeing the mechanical heart beating within the totally black exterior provides a stark and satisfying contrast between the industrial shell and the fine Swiss engineering inside.
The bracelet attached to the U3S-M is a heavy-duty stainless steel link system, treated with the same sandblasted black DLC finish as the case. The integration of the bracelet is seamless, with solid end links that fit flush against the case between the 22mm lugs. The sandblasted texture of the links feels comfortable on the skin, avoiding the cold, sticky sensation that polished steel can sometimes have. The clasp is a secure, folding mechanism that balances the weight of the watch head, ensuring it stays centered on the wrist. For those who prefer a different look or weight, the drilled lugs make swapping to a NATO or leather strap a straightforward affair, though the supplied bracelet completes the intended "full stealth" aesthetic.
On the wrist, the watch commands attention through its absence of color. It wears with a dense, purposeful heft. The 15.8mm thickness is substantial, a result of the automatic chronograph movement and the high water-resistance rating. This is not a watch that slides easily under a tight dress shirt cuff; it is designed to be worn prominently. The height of the case, combined with the downward slope of the lugs, creates a silhouette that feels like a piece of tactical equipment. It pairs as easily with the avant-garde streetwear found on the racks at Maxfield as it does with a neoprene wetsuit.
The collaboration touches extend beyond the watch itself to the packaging. Each of the 30 pieces comes housed in a UNIMATIC x Maxfield tough case, a ruggedized box that mirrors the durability of the watch. Included is a warranty card with a unique ID seal, certifying the authenticity and the specific number within the limited run. This level of presentation appeals to the collector mindset, where the unboxing experience and the provenance of the object are nearly as important as the item itself. The packaging reinforces the narrative that this is a piece of gear, capable of surviving harsh environments, even if its most likely habitat is the urban jungle of Los Angeles or Milan.
Courtesy of UNIMATIC
The rarity of this timepiece cannot be overstated. With a strict production limit of only 30 units, it is positioned as a true collector's item. This scarcity is a hallmark of the UNIMATIC business model, which relies on small-batch production runs that often sell out almost instantly. By partnering with Maxfield, a retailer known for exclusivity, they have ensured that these 30 watches will end up in the hands of a very specific clientele—those who exist at the intersection of high fashion and horology. It is a demographic that values the story and the aesthetic rarity over mass-market luxury signifiers.
Comparing this model to the standard UNIMATIC lineup, the U3S-M stands out for its refusal to use "fauxtina" or vintage-colored lume. Many modern tool watches rely on artificially aged lume to evoke a sense of nostalgia. This collaboration rejects that trend entirely. It is resolutely modern, looking forward rather than backward. The choice of grey and black tones firmly plants the watch in the present day, avoiding the trap of being a "heritage" reissue. It feels like a prop from a near-future sci-fi film, a device stripped of obsolescence.
The legibility of the watch is an interesting topic of discussion. Critics might argue that a black-on-black dial is impractical for a tool watch. However, this argument misses the point of the collaboration. The U3S-M is an exercise in design philosophy. It sacrifices instant readability for a specific visual impact. It is legible enough for the wearer, who becomes attuned to the subtle contrasts of the dial, but it remains obscure to observers. This privacy of time-telling is a luxury in itself. It is not a public clock; it is a personal instrument.
Furthermore, the durability specs ensure that despite its fashion-forward origins, the watch is no delicate flower. The DLC coating is extremely hard, protecting the steel underneath from scratches and scuffs that would mar a polished finish. The sandblasting also hides minor wear better than a brushed or polished surface. Combined with the sapphire crystal and the shock-protected movement, the U3S-M is built to be worn daily and worn hard. It is a "beater" watch in terms of specs, but a "grail" watch in terms of desirability and finish.
Courtesy of UNIMATIC
The Modello Tre U3S-M serves as a testament to the versatility of the UNIMATIC design language. The same case architecture that looks retro-diver in stainless steel looks strictly tactical in DLC. It highlights how Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato have created a platform that transcends genre. Maxfield’s input has pushed the platform into its darkest iteration yet, proving that removing color can actually add character. It is a synthesis of Italian manufacturing and Los Angeles cool, resulting in a product that feels authentic to both locales.
In terms of acquisition, the UNIMATIC x Maxfield Modello Tre U3S-M is priced at $4,295 USD. The release date is set for November 21, 2025. Given the extremely low production number of just 30 pieces, availability is expected to be fleeting. The watch will be available exclusively through Maxfield Los Angeles, both at their physical concept stores and through their online portal. For the thirty individuals fortunate enough to secure one, they will own not just a Swiss-powered chronograph, but a piece of design history that bridges the gap between the utilitarian and the avant-garde.
Case: 316L stainless steel with black DLC sandblasted finish; 40mm diameter (41.5mm with bezel); 15.8mm thickness; 300m (30 ATM) water resistance; 2.5mm thick double domed sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating; sapphire exhibition caseback; 8mm screw-down crown; 5.5mm screw-in pushers.
Movement: Swiss Sellita SW510 BH b automatic chronograph caliber; 28,800 bph frequency; 62-hour power reserve; hacking seconds; custom engraved rotor.
Dial: Matte black index dial; two off-black concentric subdials; off-black second rail and dial trims; matte black ladder skeleton hour and minute hands; reverse lollipop seconds hand with off-black tip.
Strap: Black DLC sandblasted stainless steel bracelet; 22mm lug width.
Price: $4,295 USD
Reference Number: UWK-U3S-M
Notes: Limited edition of 30 pieces; exclusive collaboration with Maxfield Los Angeles; includes UNIMATIC x Maxfield tough case and warranty card with unique ID seal.