Tissot has managed to capture massive attention in the watch community with the re-introduction of its PRX line, a design that pulls heavily from a 1978 original. The accessible price point, '70s integrated-bracelet styling, and solid Swiss mechanics have made it a go-to for new and seasoned collectors alike. With that success firmly established, Tissot is now using the PRX as a platform for one of its other long-standing traditions: material innovation. The company has a history of experimenting with unusual materials, and its latest release, the PRX 38mm Damascus Steel, is a striking example of this spirit, blending an ancient material's aesthetic with a thoroughly modern manufacturing process.
The Tissot name dates back to 1853, and while many associate the brand with traditional Swiss watchmaking, it has a rebellious streak when it comes to materials. This isn't a new strategy; it's part of the brand's DNA. This willingness to look beyond stainless steel and gold has produced some of the industry's most unique pieces. This pursuit of the unconventional demonstrates a long-held belief at Tissot that a watch's case is as much a part of its character as the movement ticking inside it. This philosophy, "innovators by tradition," is what separates the brand from many of its contemporaries.
Courtesy of Tissot
This legacy of material science really kicked into high gear in the latter half of the 20th century. In 1969, Tissot introduced the Sideral, a watch that used fiberglass for its case. This was a radical move, utilizing a material from the worlds of boating and automotive racing. It was lightweight, durable, and could be produced in bright, bold colors that were impossible to achieve with metal at the time. It was a watch that perfectly captured the spirit of its era, and it set the stage for even more daring experiments.
Just two years later, in 1971, Tissot unveiled the Idea 2001. This was the world's first mechanical watch made from synthetic materials. It featured an innovative "Sytal" system, which was a movement design that effectively eliminated the need for traditional lubrication by using self-lubricating synthetic components. This was a serious technical achievement aimed at improving long-term reliability and reducing the need for servicing, proving their material focus wasn't just for show.
Perhaps the most famous example of Tissot's material experimentation was the 1985 RockWatch. This watch did exactly what its name implied: it featured a case milled directly from a solid piece of granite. Because of the natural variations in the stone, every single RockWatch was unique. This idea of a mass-produced, yet individually distinct, timepiece was groundbreaking. Tissot didn't stop with granite, later releasing versions in other stones. This concept has been revisited recently, with a 40th-anniversary re-launch, and it solidifies Tissot's identity as a brand unafraid to challenge what a watch case can be made of.
This heritage provides the necessary context for the new PRX in Damascus steel. It's not a random gimmick. It's the next logical step for a brand that has already used fiberglass, synthetics, stone, and even forged carbon in its PRX and Sideral lines. The PRX, with its simple, geometric, and slab-sided case, provides an ideal canvas for a material whose primary appeal is its intricate surface pattern. It’s a design that lets the material do all the talking.
Courtesy of Tissot
The PRX itself is a modern interpretation of a Tissot Seastar from 1978. That original watch emerged during the height of the "luxury sports watch" boom, a time defined by tonneau-shaped cases, integrated bracelets, and a go-anywhere, do-anything attitude. When Tissot revived the PRX name in 2021, it hit the market at the perfect moment, as enthusiasm for this specific 1970s design language was at an all-time high. The combination of its sharp finishing, reliable Powermatic 80 movement, and aggressive pricing made it an undeniable success.
Now, Tissot introduces a 38mm version, a size many enthusiasts have been requesting, which hits a sweet spot for a wide range of wrists. But the main story here is the case and dial material. The watch, reference T137.807.96.081.00, is crafted from marbled stainless steel Damascus. This isn't just a surface treatment or an engraved pattern; the entire case and dial are milled from a solid block of this specialized metal, and the visual result is hypnotic.
Historically, Damascus steel refers to a material used for blades in the Near East, famed for its strength, sharp edge, and a distinctive wavy, mottled pattern. The original technique for making it has been lost to time, but the name and its mystique have endured for centuries. It's a material associated with master craftsmanship, mythical quality, and a unique, organic beauty. It carries an artisanal prestige that is completely different from the cold, uniform precision of standard 316L stainless steel.
Tissot's method for creating this material is, of course, a modern, high-tech process that honors the visual spirit of the original. It's not forged by a smith with a hammer and anvil. Instead, the process begins with two different grades of stainless-steel powder, chosen specifically for their contrasting properties. These powders are meticulously layered, one after the other, inside a mold, creating what will eventually become the visible pattern.
Courtesy of Tissot
This mold, filled with the layered powders, is then subjected to a process called Hot Isostatic Pressing, or HIP. This is an advanced industrial technique that combines two powerful forces: intense heat that approaches the fusion point of the metals, and extreme pressure, up to 1000 bar. Under this immense heat and pressure, the individual grains of powder bond at an atomic level, fusing together into one dense, solid, multilayered block of steel. This new block is composed of 70 successive layers of the two different steel grades.
Once this composite block is formed, it is treated like any other block of high-grade steel. It is precision-machined using CNC machines to create the complex, angular shapes of the PRX case and the flat disc of the dial. After machining, a combination of polished and satin-brushed finishes is applied. This final finishing step is what reveals the pattern; the two different steel types react differently to the finishing, creating a striking interplay of light and shadow that highlights the 70-layer structure.
The most compelling aspect of this process is that the swirling, marbled pattern is completely unique to each watch. Just like the RockWatch, no two PRX Damascus Steel models will be identical. The flow of the layers is organic and random, meaning the watch a customer receives is a one-of-a-kind piece. The visual effect is extraordinary, with the pattern flowing seamlessly from the sharp bezel, down the tonneau-shaped case sides, and across the dial itself.
The case specifications are in line with the classic PRX formula, updated to the 38mm size. The official dimensions are 38mm in width and 37.5mm in length, with a relatively slim profile of 10.98mm. This slimness is a key part of the PRX's appeal, allowing it to slide easily under a cuff. The case back is made from standard 316L stainless steel and is a see-through exhibition caseback, allowing a view of the movement. Water resistance is rated at 10 bar, or 100 meters (330 feet), which is more than enough for daily wear, including swimming.
Courtesy of Tissot
The dial is where the commitment to the material is fully realized. Instead of opting for a standard dial color, Tissot has used a slice from the same Damascus steel block. This creates a continuous, unified aesthetic that is rare to see. The dial is listed as "Grey," but in reality, it's a complex tapestry of light and dark greys in the characteristic swirling pattern. To ensure legibility against this busy backdrop, Tissot used applied baton indexes and simple stick hands, all of which are polished for contrast. The hands are also treated with Super-LumiNova for low-light visibility. A framed date window sits at the 3 o'clock position, a practical feature for a daily-wear watch.
Protecting this unique dial is a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Tissot has also given the crystal an antireflective coating. This is a crucial addition, as it cuts down on glare and allows the intricate details of the Damascus pattern to be seen clearly from all angles. On a watch where the dial material is the main attraction, minimizing reflections is a must.
Driving the PRX Damascus Steel is the tried-and-true Powermatic 80 movement, specifically the calibre 11 1/2'''. This is a Swiss automatic movement that has become the workhorse for Tissot and other Swatch Group brands. Its name gives away its main feature: an impressive power reserve of up to 80 hours. This is a significant practical benefit. A standard watch movement often has a power reserve of around 38 to 42 hours. The 80-hour reserve means you can take the watch off on a Friday evening, leave it for the entire weekend, and it will still be ticking come Monday morning.
Another key technical feature of this movement is its use of a patented Nivachron balance spring. This component is the heart of the watch, regulating its timekeeping. The Nivachron alloy is an advanced material developed by the Swatch Group that is highly resistant to magnetic fields. In our modern lives, we are constantly surrounded by magnets in phones, laptops, and speakers, which can magnetize a watch's hairspring and severely impact its accuracy. The Nivachron spring helps shield the movement from these everyday magnetic forces, leading to more reliable and precise performance over time.
Instead of the PRX's signature integrated bracelet, this model comes on a black embossed cow leather strap. This choice helps to frame the Damascus case, making the material itself the hero. The strap is listed as having a synthetic backing, which aids in durability and comfort against the skin. The strap reference is T600051267, with a 120mm 6 o'clock side and a 75mm 12 o'clock side.
Courtesy of Tissot
A critical feature of the strap is the "Interchangeable quick release bracelet" system. This means that despite the proprietary 11mm lug width, the strap has small tabs on the spring bars that allow it to be removed and swapped out in seconds, with no tools required. A fantastic and thoughtful final detail is the buckle. The standard pin buckle is also crafted from the same marbled Damascus steel, ensuring the unique pattern is visible even on the clasp. It’s a small touch that shows a complete commitment to the design concept.
The Tissot PRX 38mm Damascus Steel (SKU: T1378079608100) is priced at $1,175.00. This places it at a significant premium over the standard stainless steel Powermatic 80 models, but it's a price that reflects the complex and advanced manufacturing process of the case, dial, and buckle. For this, the buyer gets a watch that is genuinely unique, backed by a 2-year warranty and all the proven technical benefits of the PRX platform. It's a bold watch for someone who appreciates the PRX design but wants a version that is far from common, turning a popular, accessible design into a piece of industrial art.
Case: Marbled stainless steel damascus material with 316L stainless steel see-through caseback. Tonneau shape. 38.00mm width, 37.50mm length, 10.98mm thickness. 11.00mm lugs. Water-resistant up to 10 bar (100 m / 330 ft). Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with antireflective coating.
Movement: Swiss automatic, Powermatic 80. Caliber 11 1/2'''. Power reserve up to 80 hours. Patented Nivachron balance spring. Functions: HMSD (Hour, Minute, Second, Date).
Dial: Grey color, made from marbled stainless steel damascus. Features indexes and hands with Super-LumiNova.
Strap: Black embossed cow leather with synthetic back. Features interchangeable quick release system. Standard buckle made from matching marbled stainless steel damascus.
Price: $1,175.00
Reference Number: T1378079608100
Notes: The case, dial, and buckle are crafted from a modern Damascus steel, made by fusing 70 layers of two steel powders via hot isostatic pressing. This process makes the marbled pattern of each watch unique.