In an interesting twist that highlights the sometimes surprising turns within the watch industry,
Studio Underd0g found itself in an unusual position early in 2024. The young British brand discovered that another company had produced a timepiece clearly inspired by Studio Underd0g's distinct design language, yet based on a model that Studio Underd0g itself had never actually created. This unexpected "homage" prompted a unique response from the brand known for its playful approach.
The story began when a watch appeared on the market bearing a striking resemblance to Studio Underd0g's established aesthetic, particularly echoing the popular "Watermelon" colorway, but applied to a configuration the brand hadn't released. Faced with a copy of something that wasn't technically theirs to begin with, Studio Underd0g saw an opportunity not for indignation, but for ingenuity. They decided to turn the situation on its head.
Courtesy of Studio Underd0g
Polling their active online community, the brand proposed a counter-move: what if Studio Underd0g were to create an "original" version based on the homage? The idea was met with enthusiastic approval. This led to the development of "The Unoriginals" collection, a clever and self-aware project embracing the strange circumstance and transforming it into a tangible product line, staying true to the brand's lighthearted ethos.
This collection features two new chronograph models: the Av0cado and the Guacam0le. Both timepieces are built upon the brand's third-generation 01SERIES platform and embody the core Studio Underd0g principles of vibrant color-blocking and distinct design, while directly referencing the genesis of their creation – an imitation of a phantom watch. The Av0cado takes inspiration from the specific homage piece, while the Guacam0le offers a complementary, thematic variation.
Studio Underd0g itself is a relatively new entrant, officially launching in March 2021. Founder Richard Benc established the brand during the 2020 lockdowns, driven by a desire to inject more fun into what he perceived as an often overly serious watch industry. His initial design concepts, shared on enthusiast forums, garnered significant positive feedback, encouraging him to pursue the venture full-time. The brand's mission crystallized: to create mechanically sound, well-designed watches that don't take themselves too seriously.
The development process started with Benc sketching ideas during his free time, aiming for a balance between solid watchmaking credentials and approachable, whimsical design. This philosophy quickly resonated with a segment of the watch community looking for something different from traditional offerings. The brand's engagement with its audience from the outset has been a key factor in its growth and direction, as evidenced by the community's role in greenlighting "The Unoriginals" project.
The design language of Studio Underd0g, evident in "The Unoriginals," draws inspiration from mid-century watch aesthetics but employs modern manufacturing techniques. This results in a silhouette that feels familiar yet fresh. A defining characteristic is the use of multi-layered dials with contrasting textures and often bold, unexpected color combinations. The asymmetric sizing of the chronograph sub-dials is another signature element, thoughtfully balanced by the placement of branding and text to ensure the central chronograph hand sweeps without visual obstruction.
Courtesy of Studio Underd0g
"The Unoriginals" represent the third generation (Gen3) of Studio Underd0g's 01SERIES chronographs. This generation introduces several considered refinements based on previous iterations and user feedback. Notably, the mid-case has been slimmed down, reducing the overall thickness from 13.6mm to a more wearable 12.9mm. This subtle change enhances the watch's profile on the wrist without compromising its presence.
Further Gen3 enhancements include an increased thickness for the crown, aimed at providing a smoother and more assured manual winding experience – crucial for a hand-wound chronograph. The dial tooling has also been updated. Significantly, the dials now bear the text "Assembled in Great Britain," a mark of provenance that distinguishes the brand and underscores its commitment to UK-based assembly and quality control.
Complementing the dial-side changes, the sapphire exhibition case back has been enlarged. This offers a broader, clearer view of the bespoke movement ticking within, allowing owners a better appreciation of the mechanical heart of the watch. This increased visibility highlights the custom ST-1901B calibre developed specifically for the brand.
A significant aspect of Studio Underd0g's operation is its commitment to final assembly and quality control in Great Britain, facilitated through a partnership with Horologium. Each watch undergoes a rigorous independent inspection process before shipping. This includes demagnetisation, a crucial step for maintaining mechanical accuracy, followed by a thorough accuracy and rate review conducted in three different positions. The movements are regulated to meet the specified standard. Every watch is accompanied by a report card detailing these checks, providing transparency and assurance to the owner.
At the core of "The Unoriginals" lies the bespoke ST-1901B movement, a manual-winding chronograph calibre developed in collaboration with the established movement manufacturer Seagull. This movement is exclusive to Studio Underd0g. A standout feature is its visually striking all-black main plate, which creates a dramatic backdrop for the contrasting bridges, gears, and the oscillating balance wheel. This aesthetic choice elevates the view through the exhibition case back.
Courtesy of Studio Underd0g
The ST-1901B also incorporates a silver swan neck regulator. This component, often found in higher-end mechanical movements, allows for finer adjustments to the watch's timing, enabling more precise regulation. Studio Underd0g ensures that each of these movements is regulated within Great Britain to an accuracy specification of -10 to +15 seconds per day, a respectable range for a mechanical chronograph in this category.
Functionally, the ST-1901B operates at a beat rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz). It provides standard timekeeping functions – hours, minutes, and running seconds alongside a column-wheel actuated chronograph complication. This includes a central chronograph seconds hand and minute counter sub-dial. The dial also features a tachymeter scale on its periphery, allowing for speed calculations over a fixed distance. The movement is wound manually via the crown in a clockwise direction and boasts a solid power reserve: approximately 50 hours with the chronograph function off, and around 45 hours when the chronograph is running.
Both the Av0cado and Guacam0le models share the same meticulously crafted case. Constructed from 316L stainless steel, known for its durability and corrosion resistance, the case features a three-part architecture. The diameter is a versatile 38.5mm, hitting a sweet spot that suits a wide range of wrist sizes. Coupled with a lug-to-lug measurement of 44.5mm and the newly slimmed thickness of 12.9mm, the proportions are designed for comfortable, everyday wear. The lug width is a standard 20mm, offering compatibility with a vast array of aftermarket straps. The case provides a water resistance of 5 ATM (50 meters), sufficient for handling splashes and brief immersion, though not intended for swimming or diving.
The dials on both models utilize a sophisticated two-layer construction. The base layer features a satin sandblast finish, providing a smooth, matte foundation. Overlaid is a top dial with a coarse dégradé finish, which introduces texture and a subtle gradient effect, adding visual depth. Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal, highly resistant to scratches. It's likely a second sapphire crystal is used for the exhibition case back, given the emphasis on viewing the movement. For low-light visibility, Super-LumiNova C3, known for its bright green glow, is applied to relevant dial elements like hands and potentially hour markers.
Courtesy of Studio Underd0g
The Av0cado dial presents a specific and playful color scheme. It features a textured green outer ring, framing a central dial area with a yellowish, slightly granular texture designed to evoke the flesh of an avocado. The sub-dial on the right side is rendered in a contrasting brown hue, cleverly representing the avocado pit. This thematic execution is characteristic of Studio Underd0g's creative approach to color.
The Guacam0le dial, while sharing the same layered structure, offers a different interpretation of the green theme. It employs various shades of green across the dial surfaces, creating a more blended, "mashed-up" visual texture, directly referencing its namesake dip. This model maintains the brand's signature color-blocking style but opts for a tonal exploration within the green spectrum, contrasting with the more segmented color fields of the Av0cado.
Completing the package for both watches is a high-quality strap sourced from The Strap Tailor. Crafted from Italian Epsom leather, known for its distinctive grain and durability, the strap measures 20mm at the lugs and tapers elegantly to 16mm at the buckle. This taper enhances wearing comfort and contributes to the watch's balanced proportions. The inclusion of quick-release spring bars is a practical touch, allowing for easy strap changes without the need for tools. The strap is secured by a custom pin buckle made from 316L stainless steel, featuring signed Studio Underd0g branding.
Visually, the Av0cado presents a striking contrast. The polished 316L stainless steel case provides a bright frame for the dial's unique colorway. The outer green ring clearly delineates the dial's edge, leading the eye inward to the textured yellow center. The brown sub-dial acts as a distinct focal point, breaking the symmetry in a deliberate and quirky manner typical of the brand. Paired with the texture of the Epsom leather strap, the overall look is distinctive and conversational.
The Guacam0le offers a more unified, yet texturally rich appearance. The interplay of different green shades across the dégradé top dial and potentially the sub-dials creates depth and visual interest. The satin sandblast base provides subtle contrast. The polished steel case highlights the nuances of the green tones. Depending on the strap color chosen, the Guacam0le can present either a more monochromatic look or introduce a complementary contrast, while still feeling cohesive due to the dial's blended nature.
Courtesy of Studio Underd0g
The genesis of "The Unoriginals" collection is a testament to Studio Underd0g's adaptable and community-focused nature. Instead of ignoring or legally challenging the unexpected homage, the brand embraced the situation with humor, turning it into a creative opportunity and involving their supporters in the decision-making process. This narrative adds an extra layer of interest to the watches themselves, making them conversation starters beyond their aesthetic appeal.
The Studio Underd0g "The Unoriginals" collection, featuring the Av0cado and Guacam0le models, is opening for orders on May 8th, 2025. Both watches are priced at $675.00 USD. They are designated as Limited Editions available only during a specific order window. Once this window closes, the collection will be permanently discontinued and will not be restocked. The first 800 orders placed are scheduled for delivery beginning in May 2025.
Case: 316L Stainless Steel, 3-part construction, Ø38.5mm diameter, 12.9mm thickness (W), 44.5mm lug-to-lug, 20mm lug width, 5 ATM water resistance.
Movement: Bespoke Seagull ST-1901B manual winding chronograph, exclusive to Studio Underd0g, 21,600 BPH, silver swan neck regulator, all-black main plate, regulated to -10/+15 s/d in GB, approx. 50h power reserve (chrono off) / 45h (chrono on), functions: hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, tachymeter.
Dial: 2-layer construction: Satin sandblast base-dial, coarse dégradé top-dial. Sapphire crystals. Super-LumiNova C3 lume. Available in Av0cado (green/yellow/brown) and Guacam0le (various greens) colorways.
Strap: Italian Epsom Leather by The Strap Tailor, 20mm width tapering to 16mm, quick-release spring bars, signed 316L stainless steel buckle.
Price: $675.00 USD
Notes: Part of the Gen3 01SERIES featuring a slimmer case and larger exhibition crystal. Watches are 'Assembled in Great Britain' and undergo full QC including regulation. The collection originated from Studio Underd0g creating an "original" watch based on a homage of a non-existent model. Limited Edition via order window.