Squale recently introduced a remarkable project, the Corallo NOS 2008, a series of watches born from a unique intersection of past and present. This release isn't merely inspired by history; it utilizes components directly from it. Limited to just 300 pieces worldwide, these watches leverage original cases manufactured in the 1980s, blending them with modern materials and engineering to create something genuinely distinct in today's market.
The story of
Squale stretches back to 1959 in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, where Charles Von Büren founded the brand with a clear focus on professional dive watches. Von Büren's expertise wasn't just limited to his own brand; Squale quickly gained a reputation for producing high-quality, water-resistant watch cases that were supplied to numerous other Swiss brands, often identified by the Squale shark logo appearing on the dial as a mark of quality and reliability. Since the 1980s, the brand has been under the stewardship of the Maggi family, continuing its dedication to robust, functional timepieces rooted in Swiss watchmaking traditions.
Courtesy of Squale
Throughout its history, Squale watches have graced the wrists of notable figures in the diving world, including pioneers like Jacques Mayol and Enzo Maiorca. The brand also developed strong ties with various military and professional units, crafting special editions for groups such as the Italian Folgore Paratroopers and the Navy's Comsubin Frogmen. This legacy underscores Squale's commitment to producing watches capable of performing under demanding underwater conditions.
The original Corallo collection emerged during the 1980s, perfectly capturing the design spirit of that decade for Squale. Characterized by its compact case dimensions and a style that resonated with contemporary trends, the Corallo aimed for a balance between underwater functionality and everyday wearability. It was initially offered in time-only versions with case sizes of 28mm, 34mm, and 36mm, later expanding to include a chronograph variant for those seeking more technical complexity.
The name "Corallo," Italian for coral, was derived directly from the watch's most defining visual feature: its bezel. Unlike conventional coin-edge or geared bezels, the Corallo featured eight prominent, rounded humps encircling its edge. This design choice wasn't purely aesthetic; these protrusions were intended to provide divers with enhanced grip for operating the rotating bezel, even when wearing thick diving gloves – a practical consideration deeply rooted in the brand's diving heritage. This unique bezel gave the Corallo an unmistakable 1980s look.
A significant development occurred three years ago when Squale uncovered a batch of 300 original Corallo cases within its archives. These weren't damaged or used parts, but "New Old Stock" (NOS) – components manufactured decades ago but never assembled into finished watches. Produced in the 1980s by the highly regarded Swiss case maker MRP SA, these cases were pristine examples of vintage manufacturing, complete with their original serial numbers engraved by MRP on the case flank.
Courtesy of Squale
The concept of NOS is particularly intriguing in watchmaking. It allows brands to connect directly with their past in a tangible way. Unlike a reissue, which recreates a historical design using entirely new parts, an NOS project incorporates actual vintage components. The Squale Corallo NOS 2008 embodies this approach, presenting not a replica of a 1980s watch, but an actual 1980s case brought to life in the 21st century.
Faced with this historical find, Squale embarked on a novel path. Instead of simply assembling the watches exactly as they would have been in the 1980s, or merely recreating the design, they opted for a hybrid strategy. The decision was made to preserve the integrity of the original NOS cases while thoughtfully upgrading other elements to meet contemporary expectations for performance, durability, and safety. This involved integrating modern materials and technologies where appropriate.
This process required considerable effort in re-engineering. The goal was to ensure that the watches, built around decades-old cases, could offer the reliability and water resistance expected today. This involved careful assessment and the implementation of updated components like modern gaskets and a robust sapphire crystal, ensuring the final product respects its vintage core while delivering modern functionality.
The case itself, crafted from 316L stainless steel, features dimensions that were typical for the era but feel surprisingly relevant today. Measuring 36.8mm in diameter, 10.5mm in thickness, and with a lug-to-lug distance of 44mm, it offers a compact yet substantial presence on the wrist. The 20mm lug width provides versatility for strap changes. The entire case features a consistent brushed finish, reinforcing its tool-watch origins. It includes a solid screw-in case back and a screw-in crown, protected by integrated crown guards – essential features for ensuring water resistance.
A key upgrade contributing to the watch's modern capability is its water resistance rating of 200 meters (20 ATM). While the original Corallo was designed for diving, achieving this level of water resistance reliably necessitated the use of contemporary gasket technology and the replacement of the original crystal type with a more resilient alternative, ensuring the watch is suitable for recreational diving and water sports.
Courtesy of Squale
Protecting the dial is a domed sapphire crystal. Sapphire is significantly more scratch-resistant than the acrylic or mineral glass likely used in the original 1980s production, offering vastly improved durability for everyday wear. The domed shape adds a vintage character, while an anti-reflective coating applied to the crystal's underside minimizes glare and enhances legibility in various lighting conditions.
The bezel remains the star of the show, retaining the original Corallo structure with its distinctive eight coral-like humps. Functionally, it has been updated to a unidirectional rotating mechanism, a standard safety feature on modern dive watches that prevents accidental adjustments that could overestimate remaining dive time. While the structure is original, the insert is a modern aluminum component, redesigned in two color variations. Crucially, the numerals and markers on the bezel insert are treated with Super-LumiNova, ensuring they are visible in low light.
Powering the Corallo NOS 2008 is the ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement, itself a caliber with historical significance and a strong reputation. Known for its reliability and precision, this Swiss-made movement has been a workhorse in the industry for decades. Its slim profile, with a diameter of 25.60mm and a height of just 3.60mm, makes it an ideal choice for the relatively slender Corallo case. The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), features 26 jewels, and offers a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The specified Elaborè grade indicates a higher level of adjustment and finishing compared to standard grades.
Squale offers the Corallo NOS 2008 in three distinct dial variations. One model features a classic Black dial, providing a versatile and understated look. Another option is a Sunray Blue dial, which catches light beautifully and offers a richer, deeper hue. The third variant is a vibrant Light Blue Sunray dial, offering a brighter and perhaps more retro aesthetic. All three dials feature applied hour markers, adding a touch of depth, alongside a printed minute track for precise time reading. The Squale logo and model name are clearly printed on the dial.
Visibility in low-light conditions is addressed through the application of Super-LumiNova C3. This high-performance luminescent material is applied to the applied dial indexes and the hands, as well as the markers on the bezel insert. The green glow of C3 ensures that the time can be easily read in the dark or underwater, maintaining the watch's functional credentials as a dive-capable instrument.
Courtesy of Squale
Two distinct strap options are available, depending on the model variant. The Corallo NOS 2008 Black and Corallo NOS 2008 Blue models come fitted with a black rubber strap produced by Italian specialist Bonetto Cinturini. This strap features a vintage-style perforated design, reminiscent of tropic straps popular in the 1960s and 70s, which suits the watch's heritage. It measures 20mm at the lugs, tapering to 16mm at the signed buckle.
The historical discoveries associated with this project extended beyond the watch cases. Alongside the 300 cases, Squale also found a small batch of only 100 original NOS steel bracelets dating back to the 1980s. These bracelets are authentic period pieces, constructed from sheet metal with hollow end links and a hollow clasp bearing the original vintage Squale logo – characteristics typical of bracelets from that era.
This rare NOS steel bracelet is exclusively paired with the Corallo NOS 2008 Sky model (Reference: CORALBICLB.AC). This variant features the Light Blue Sunray dial and a two-tone bezel insert (black and sky blue). The combination of the bright dial and the authentic vintage steel bracelet makes this 100-piece run particularly unique and desirable for collectors seeking the full NOS experience. This version is noted as being exclusive to Squale's e-commerce platform.
The Corallo NOS 2008 Black (Reference: CORALBICBK.RBK) pairs the solid black dial with the two-tone black and sky blue bezel insert. This model is mounted on the black Bonetto Cinturini perforated rubber strap, offering a classic tool-watch aesthetic with a splash of color on the bezel that complements the dial markers and hands.
The Corallo NOS 2008 Blue (Reference: CORALBLBL.RBK) features the Sunray Blue dial matched with a solid blue aluminum bezel insert. Like the black dial version, this model comes standard with the black Bonetto Cinturini rubber strap, presenting a cohesive blue-themed dive watch appearance.
An interesting detail tying the watch directly to its origins is the name "2008." This number doesn't refer to the year of release but to the original production reference code assigned to these cases back in the 1980s. This reference number is still engraved on the case back of each watch, serving as a permanent reminder of the components' historical provenance.
Courtesy of Squale
It is important to emphasize the limited nature of this release. Only 300 Corallo NOS 2008 watches have been produced in total, distributed across the three dial variations. The Sky Blue dial version on the NOS bracelet is further limited to just 100 pieces within that total production run. This scarcity, combined with the unique story and use of genuine vintage parts, makes the collection particularly noteworthy.
The Squale Corallo NOS 2008 models were made available for pre-order with shipping indicated to begin from May 12th. All three variations are priced at $1,999.00. Prospective buyers should note the exclusivity of the Sky Blue dial variant with the NOS steel bracelet to Squale's direct e-commerce channel, while the Black and Blue dial versions on rubber straps may be available through authorized retailers as well.
Case: 316L Steel, 36.8mm diameter, 10.5mm thickness, 44mm lug-to-lug, 20mm lug width. Brushed finish. Screw-in crown with guards, screw-in case back. Monodirectional bezel with aluminum insert (SuperLuminova markers). Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. 200m (20 ATM) water resistance. Original 1980s NOS cases by MRP SA with engraved serial numbers.
Movement: Automatic ETA 2892-A2, Elaborè grade. Diameter 25.60mm, Height 3.60mm. 26 jewels. Frequency 28,800 A/h (4 Hz). 42-hour power reserve.
Dial: Available in Black, Sunray Blue, or Light Blue Sunray. Applied indexes with SuperLumiNova C3. Printed minute track.
Strap: Black model & Blue model: Black perforated rubber strap by Bonetto Cinturini (20mm lug / 16mm buckle). Sky model: Exclusive NOS 1980s steel bracelet (sheet metal, hollow end links, hollow clasp, vintage logo).
Price: $1,999.00
Reference Number: Sky: CORALBICLB.AC; Black: CORALBICBK.RBK; Blue: CORALBLBL.RBK
Notes: Limited Edition of 300 pieces total. Uses authentic 1980s "New Old Stock" cases. "2008" in name refers to original case production reference. Sky model with NOS bracelet limited to 100 pieces (e-commerce exclusive).