To mark its 30th anniversary, Roger Dubuis has reached into its own history to produce a timepiece that serves as a bridge between its foundational past and its expressive present. The new Hommage La Placide Perpetual Calendar Biretrograde is not a simple re-issue but a complex celebration of the brand's founder, Mr. Roger Dubuis, and the specific complications he championed. This limited-edition piece resurrects an important movement from the archives, combining it with modern manufacturing standards to create a watch that is both a tribute and a technical statement. It revives the Hommage collection, which was originally conceived in 1995 as the founder's way of expressing gratitude to the watchmaking masters who had inspired his own career.
The name of the watch itself is deeply personal. "La Placide" is a direct reference to the lifelong nickname of Mr. Roger Dubuis himself, "Placide." This nickname, which he carried from his childhood, is said to have reflected his calm, precise, and strong personality. By bestowing this name upon the 30th-anniversary timepiece, the Maison creates a heartfelt homage to the man who started it all, imbuing the watch with a character that goes beyond its mechanical functions. It is a nod to the quiet wisdom and devotion to watchmaking excellence that defined his art and his legacy.
Courtesy of Roger Dubuis
The new timepiece lands as a 38mm model, a diameter that speaks to more classical sensibilities, yet the watch is unmistakSably a modern Roger Dubuis creation. The case is crafted from 18K pink gold, a warm and substantial material that provides a rich frame for the intricate dial. The case design itself, with its polished and brushed surfaces, signature three-lug design (though more integrated here), and fluted crown, balances traditional case-making with the brand's distinctive design language. The crown itself is detailed with the original Roger Dubuis logo, a subtle but important link to the heritage this watch celebrates.
At the very core of the Hommage La Placide is its complex display, which unites two of Mr. Roger Dubuis's favorite mechanical expressions: the perpetual calendar and the biretrograde display. The perpetual calendar is a grand complication, a mechanical memory that correctly accounts for the varying lengths of the months, including the 28, 29, 30, and 31-day cycles, and the leap year. It is designed to run accurately without manual correction, assuming the watch remains wound. This mechanism represents a high point of traditional horology, a craft Mr. Dubuis mastered.
What gives this perpetual calendar its expressive dynamism is the biretrograde function. Instead of hands traveling in a full 360-degree circle, two key indications—the day and the date—are displayed on arced scales. The day of the week is shown on a semi-circle on the left side of the dial, from "MON" to "SUN." The date is displayed on a corresponding, larger arc on the right, from "1" to "31." As time progresses, the hands for each sweep across their respective scales. At the end of the cycle (midnight on Sunday for the day, and midnight on the 31st for the date), the hands instantly snap back to their starting position, a visually engaging event that brings the dial to life.
This complication, specifically the co-patented bi-retrograde display, was a signature of Mr. Roger Dubuis, first redefined by him in 1989. The display's segments are wide on the outside and narrow towards the center, creating a unique visual ellipsis. This watch embodies that signature, a clear nod to the founder's passion for giving time an expressive and dynamic face. It’s a complication that demands precision engineering to manage the high tension and release of energy required for the instantaneous flyback of the hands.
Courtesy of Roger Dubuis
The dial is not merely a surface but a deeply constructed landscape, composed of five distinct layers that create a tangible sense of depth and light. This multi-layered architecture is a hallmark of the brand's modern approach to "expressive fine watchmaking." The main plate of the dial is finished in a deep, rich "Leman Blue." This specific lacquered hue is another tribute, inspired by the serene waters of Lake Geneva (Lac Léman), which Mr. Roger Dubuis would view daily during his early career. This blue serves as the foundational canvas for the complications.
The first layer, at the very periphery, is the flange. This rhodium-coated, circular-brushed ring catches the light and provides a technical framework for the dial. It features a precise minute track with transferred numerals in white and red, adding a touch of sporty instrumentation to the otherwise classical arrangement. Polished angles on the applied hour markers, which are shaped like sharp, faceted triangles, further enhance the play of light.
The next layer consists of the biretrograde segments themselves. These are not printed on the main dial but are separate, raised components. Crafted from mother-of-pearl, these "ecliptic segments" have a subtle, iridescent sheen that contrasts beautifully with the deep blue lacquer. The segments feature hand-beveled chamfers, a fine watchmaking finish that highlights their three-dimensional form, and crisply transferred texts for the days and dates.
At the 12 o'clock position sits a prominent sub-dial, also crafted from azuré (finely snailed) mother-of-pearl. This counter cleverly combines two functions with two co-axial hands. The outer ring of the counter, marked with "JAN" through "DEC," indicates the month. The center of this sub-dial features a four-sector display marked "1," "2," "3," and "L," which indicates the current position in the leap year cycle. This concentration of information in a single, elegant counter maintains the dial's balance.
Courtesy of Roger Dubuis
Directly opposite, at the 6 o'clock position, is the moonphase display. This is perhaps the most poetic part of the dial. The base of the display is a disc of dark blue aventurine, a type of glass with glittering mineral inclusions that perfectly mimics a starry night sky. Set against this celestial backdrop are two curved, realistic moons crafted from 18K yellow gold, tracking the lunar cycle with precision. The counter is framed by a transferred scale indicating the lunar month.
Powering this intricate display is the automatic RD1472 calibre, which is the true heart of the "then and now" story. This movement is a combination of two distinct historical components from the Maison's archives. It is only the second time in the brand's history that the RD14 calibre and the RD72 module have been brought together. The movement is constructed from 307 components and is meticulously decorated with more than 15 traditional finishing techniques, a requirement for its prestigious certification.
The foundation of the movement is the RD14, which holds the distinction of being the very first in-house automatic movement launched by Roger Dubuis in 2004. For this limited edition, the Maison sourced original RD14 calibres from its archives. Each one was fully checked, diagnosed, and restored to like-new condition. A significant technical improvement was made by repositioning all wheel axes after a complete recalculation of the gear train, optimizing its performance for today's standards.
These restored RD14 base calibres still feature two respected, traditional components. The first is the swan neck regulator, a classic mechanism that allows for very fine, precise manual adjustment of the watch's rate and offers better shock resistance. The second is the use of original Roger Dubuis balance springs, the in-house production of which was a milestone that first earned the Maison the official title of "Manufacture" in the early 2000s.
To this restored base calibre, the watchmakers added the RD72 module, a component first launched in 1999. This module is what provides the complete perpetual calendar and biretrograde functionality. Due to the passage of time and the evolution of standards, the Maison's integrated manufacture had to remanufacture approximately 50% of the module's components, including the main plate, a large bridge, and numerous levers, springs, and wheels, all based on the original 1989 patent co-signed by Mr. Dubuis.
Courtesy of Roger Dubuis
The synthesis of these two parts, the RD1472, is a modern revival. It meets the current, stringent criteria of the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal). This certification, which was a mark of excellence for Mr. Roger Dubuis from the beginning, has evolved since the RD14 and RD72 were first created. The standards, updated in 2012, now test the entire cased-up timepiece for chronometry and performance, not just the movement. The artisans focused intensely on the setting of the calibre to ensure this historical hybrid movement could meet these modern demands.
Turning the watch over reveals a view of this calibre through a sapphire crystal caseback. The view is dominated by a newly made, full-size rotor, crafted in 18K pink gold. The rotor is skeletonized with the brand's modern "spider-web" aesthetic, which allows for a clearer view of the movement bridges beneath. Those bridges are decorated with traditional finishes like Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes), perlage (circular graining), and mirror-polished bevels on the "pistol bridges" that pay homage to Mr. Dubuis's heritage in pocket watch restoration.
The caseback itself is engraved with several key pieces of information. The limited-edition number, "XX/28," is clearly visible, confirming the watch's exclusivity. It also holds an emotive message that captures the spirit of the project: “This is a watch of today, inspired but not restricted to the past, projected into a future that belongs to us.” This statement serves as a testament from the founders and the philosophy of the modern Maison.
The Hommage La Placide is presented on a blue calf leather strap. The color perfectly matches the "Leman Blue" of the dial, creating a cohesive visual identity. The strap is equipped with an interchangeable system, allowing for easy removal via a spur on the spring bar. This system, while modern, is paired with a clasp that continues the heritage theme. The 18K pink gold triple-folding buckle features a cover and blades, and the cover itself is adorned with the original Roger Dubuis emblem, matching the detail on the crown.
Courtesy of Roger Dubuis
This 30th-anniversary creation is a celebration that extends beyond the watch itself. In a gesture of gratitude to its long-time collectors, Roger Dubuis has announced that all existing owners of original Hommage timepieces will be welcomed at any of the brand's monobrand boutiques worldwide to receive a complimentary new strap fitted to their watch, a move that thoughtfully connects the past and present collector base.
The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide Perpetual Calendar Biretrograde is a highly exclusive release, consistent with the brand's approach to high-complication watchmaking. It is strictly limited to just 28 pieces worldwide. This scarcity, combined with its unique story of resurrecting and modernizing historical components, places it firmly in the category of a true collector's piece. As is standard for a watch of this complexity and precious material, pricing is available only upon request through the brand's authorized points of sale.
Case: 38mm 18K Pink Gold case.
Movement: Calibre RD1472, automatic. Combination of restored RD14 base calibre and remanufactured RD72 perpetual calendar module. 307 components. Features perpetual calendar with biretrograde day and date, month, leap year, and moonphase. Poinçon de Genève certified. 18K pink gold rotor.
Dial: 5-layer dial. Leman Blue lacquered main plate. Rhodium-coated, circular-brushed flange. Mother-of-pearl ecliptic segments. Azuré mother-of-pearl leap year/month counter. Aventurine disc with 18K yellow gold moons for moonphase.
Strap: Blue calf leather strap. Interchangeable with spur on spring bar. 18K pink gold triple-folding buckle.
Price: Upon Request
Reference Number: DBHO0612
Notes: Limited edition of 28 pieces. Celebrates the Maison's 30th anniversary. Named after Mr. Roger Dubuis's nickname, "Placide." Features the founder's favorite complication, the Perpetual Calendar with Biretrograde display.