The introduction of the new British Racing Green and Petrol Blue dials for the Renaud Tixier Monday marks a distinct shift in the visual identity of a brand that has already begun to carve out a significant niche in independent watchmaking. Unveiled initially at the Perpétuel Gallery during the horological festivities in Dubai, these two timepieces represent more than just a palette swap; they signal a considerate evolution in the model's design language. The Monday was originally conceived as the first chapter in a series of seven planned creations, each intended to deconstruct and improve upon a specific horological archetype. With these new variations, the brand has moved to refine the external aesthetics to match the intense mechanical ingenuity found within the case, offering a fresh perspective on their inaugural model.
The partnership between Dominique Renaud and Julien Tixier is one of the most compelling narratives in modern watchmaking, bridging a generational divide that rarely sees such equal footing in collaboration. Dominique Renaud is a veteran movement creator whose career spans four decades and who helped shape the landscape of modern complications, while Julien Tixier represents a younger generation of self-taught, highly skilled artisans capable of prototyping and manufacturing with immense speed and precision. Their union is built on a shared desire to solve mechanical problems that have lingered in the industry for years. The Monday is the physical manifestation of this philosophy, specifically targeting the inefficiencies of the micro-rotor automatic winding system, but these new releases show that their attention is equally focused on the artistic execution of the watch’s exterior.
Courtesy of Renaud Tixier
Visually, the new dials employ a sector layout that brings a sense of architectural rigor to the watch face, a choice that feels appropriate given the mechanical density of the movement. The composition is anchored by a larger flange that mirrors the geometry of the minute track, a subtle adjustment that significantly increases the perceived depth of the display. When viewing the watch, the eye is immediately drawn to the interplay between the central section and the perimeter, creating a taut visual dialogue that was perhaps less pronounced in earlier iterations. The indices have been reworked to be bolder and more sculptural, with a double index now situated at the twelve o’clock position to provide an immediate orientation point for the wearer.
The British Racing Green variant presents a particularly striking aesthetic, utilizing a rose gold case that contrasts warmly against the verdant tones of the dial. The dial itself is not a simple flat surface; it features a complex texture that captures light in interesting ways. The center of the dial displays a grained finish that has been enlivened by a circular satin-brushed treatment, creating a surface that appears almost like finely stippled metal or stone. This texture contrasts sharply with the smooth, polished surfaces of the rose gold hands and indices. The open-worked section at nine o'clock reveals the mechanical heart of the watch, where the golden hues of the gears and the balance wheel complement the case material, creating a cohesive color story that extends from the exterior to the interior mechanics.
In contrast, the Petrol Blue model offers a cooler, more understated temperament, housed in a white gold case that emphasizes the graphic poise of the sector dial. The blue tone is deep and saturated, providing a stark backdrop for the silver-toned indices and hands. The same textural complexity is present here, with the grained center contrasting against the smoother outer tracks, but the effect is sharper and more modern due to the monochromatic nature of the white metals. The small seconds indicator, located between four and five o'clock, has been reinterpreted to mirror the outer minute track, reinforcing the concentric geometry of the design. This model feels more industrial and perhaps slightly more contemporary, appealing to a collector who prefers the stealth wealth approach of white gold over the overt luxury of rose.
Courtesy of Renaud Tixier
The case dimensions remain a very wearable 40.8mm in diameter, with a height of 10.5mm excluding the crystal, rising to 12.6mm when the domed sapphire is accounted for. While the dimensions suggest a standard dress watch, the finishing of the case flanks elevates it into something far more artisanal. The sides of the case feature hand engraving that creates a hammered, organic texture, vastly different from the standard brushed or polished finishes found on mass-produced luxury watches. This engraving extends to the area between the lugs, a detail that is often overlooked but speaks to the obsession with finishing that defines the brand. This granular texture on the case serves to break up the reflection of light, slimming the profile visually and adding a tactile element that demands to be touched.
Beneath the dial lies the Caliber RVI2023, a movement that is the primary reason for the watch's existence and a marvel of modern engineering. Traditional micro-rotor movements often suffer from inefficient winding because the small rotor lacks the mass and leverage of a full-sized central rotor. To combat this, Dominique Renaud invented a central "dancer," or inertia wheel, which is placed at the heart of the mechanism. This auxiliary flywheel captures energy from shocks and movements that would otherwise be lost, feeding it back into the winding system. It is a kinetic solution to a kinetic problem, and seeing it in action through the open dial aperture or the exhibition caseback provides a dynamic spectacle that separates this caliber from standard automatic movements.
The construction of the movement utilizes materials chosen for both performance and aesthetics, with bridges and the balance cock crafted from titanium. This choice of material is significant because titanium is notoriously difficult to finish to high haute horlogerie standards, yet the movement boasts no fewer than 187 interior angles. Each of these angles requires hours of manual labor to file and polish, resulting in sharp, defined corners that machines simply cannot replicate. The micro-rotor itself is made of platinum to ensure maximum density and winding efficiency, but it is gold-plated to match the warm tones of the movement’s other components. The mainplate and barrel bridge are crafted from German silver, providing a sturdy and traditional foundation for the avant-garde mechanics layered above.
One of the most artistic flourishes within the movement is the barrel ratchet-wheel cover, which is visible through the caseback. This component is not merely stamped or machined; it is hand-chiseled and then finished with violet grand feu enamel. This splash of vibrant purple is a signature of the brand, a nod to the Métiers d'Art that Renaud Tixier seeks to preserve alongside their technical innovations. The engraving on this small component mimics the texture found on the case flanks, creating a unified aesthetic language that ties the internal and external elements of the watch together. It is a detail that could easily have been left plain, but its elaboration serves as a reminder that this is a handmade object intended for scrutiny under a loupe.
Courtesy of Renaud Tixier
The finishing throughout the movement is executed to a standard that rivals the most prestigious houses in Switzerland. The bevels are polished to a mirror shine, contrasting with the matte surfaces of the titanium bridges. The screw heads are polished, and the sinks are chamfered. Even the "dancer" mechanism, which spins rapidly and is functional in nature, is treated as an aesthetic object. The architecture of the movement is open and airy, allowing the viewer to trace the flow of power from the rotor to the barrel and finally to the escapement. It is a mechanism that celebrates its own complexity rather than hiding it behind full bridges.
To complement the new dials, the straps have been carefully selected to enhance the overall character of each reference. The British Racing Green model is paired with a green calf leather strap that features a unique textile-like texture. This woven appearance adds another layer of surface interest to the watch, playing off the grained texture of the dial and the hammered finish of the case. It is hand-stitched and lined with Brown Alicante leather, ensuring comfort and durability. The choice of a textile effect on leather is a clever way to dress down the gold case slightly, giving it a sporting edge that aligns with the "Racing Green" moniker.
The Petrol Blue model is secured with a deep blue calf suede strap, a material choice that enhances the softness and coolness of the white gold case. Suede absorbs light rather than reflecting it, which allows the polished elements of the watch head to pop more dramatically. The strap is lined with Black Alicante leather and is also hand-stitched, reinforcing the artisanal nature of the product. The interplay between the fuzzy texture of the suede, the granular finish of the case sides, and the complex finishing of the dial creates a tactile experience that is varied and rich.
Courtesy of Renaud Tixier
The launch of these new dials at Perpétuel Gallery is significant, as the Dubai-based retailer has been a staunch supporter of independent watchmaking and was one of the first to champion the Renaud Tixier project. Hamdan Bin Humaid, the owner of Perpétuel, has cultivated a reputation for offering exceptional creations to a discerning clientele, and the partnership with Renaud Tixier underscores a shared commitment to quality and human values. The gallery is not just a point of sale but a partner in the brand's journey, providing a platform for these limited creations to reach collectors who understand the nuance of what Dominique and Julien are achieving.
The changes made to the Monday for this release are described by the brand as a "considerate evolution," a phrase that aptly captures the subtlety of the updates. The re-proportioned markings and the larger flange are not radical departures, but they correct and refine the visual balance of the watch. The branding remains intentionally discreet, with the logotype repositioned to maintain a minimal signature. This restraint allows the craftsmanship—the hand engraving, the anglage, the enameling—to speak first. It is a confident move for a young brand to minimize its logo, trusting that the quality of the work will serve as its primary identifier.
The legibility of the new sector dials is notably improved, with the reinterpreted small seconds ring mirroring the outer track to create a clearer read. The double index at twelve serves a functional purpose but also adds a visual weight to the top of the dial that anchors the design. These are adjustments born from wearing and living with the watch, proving that the brand is listening to feedback and critically analyzing their own work to pursue perfection. It is a display that feels calmer to read than previous versions, yet richer to contemplate when one takes the time to study the details.
The specifications of the Monday are robust for a watch of this artistic caliber, offering a power reserve of at least 60 hours. This is particularly impressive given the energy requirements of the movement and the use of a micro-rotor. The frequency of 2.5Hz, or 18,000 vibrations per hour, is a traditional beat rate that harkens back to the golden age of pocket watches and allows for a larger balance wheel, which is aesthetically pleasing to watch in motion. The water resistance is rated at 30 meters, which is standard for a dress watch and sufficient for daily wear, provided one avoids swimming.
Courtesy of Renaud Tixier
Every component of the Renaud Tixier Monday, from the 274 parts of the caliber to the hand-engraved plates between the lugs, speaks to a refusal to cut corners. The project is ambitious, aiming to produce seven distinct inventions, but the Monday proves that the team is capable of delivering on their promises. The combination of Dominique Renaud’s inventive genius and Julien Tixier’s executional mastery has resulted in a watch that feels both old and new—rooted in traditional techniques like hand engraving and grand feu enamel, but powered by a novel mechanism that solves a modern problem.
The availability of these timepieces is naturally limited by the production capacity of the workshop. The level of hand-finishing involved, particularly the 187 interior angles and the manual engraving of the case, means that output will always be low. Initially, the watches are available exclusively for viewing and purchase through Perpétuel Gallery, serving the region's robust community of collectors. Following this initial launch window, the British Racing Green and Petrol Blue models will become available worldwide through the brand’s network of authorized retailers. As is common with high-end independent watchmaking of this tier, the price is available upon request, reflecting the bespoke and highly labor-intensive nature of each example produced.
Case: 40.8mm diameter x 10.5mm height (12.6mm with crystal) x 51.3mm lug-to-lug white gold or rose gold case featuring hand engraving on the flanks and between the lugs. Equipped with a domed sapphire crystal front and sapphire case back with water resistance rated to 30 meters (3 ATM).
Movement: Caliber RVI2023 automatic movement measuring 36.8mm x 6.69mm, comprised of 274 components and 31 jewels, operating at 2.5Hz (18,000 A/h) with a minimum power reserve of 60 hours. Distinguished by a gold-plated platinum micro-rotor with a central platinum inertia wheel, titanium bridges and balance cock, and 187 hand-finished interior angles.
Dial: Sector layout featuring grained, chiselled, and circular satin-brushed finishes in either racing green and taupe grey or petrol blue and silver. Displays nine-faced applied indices and polished, satin-brushed hands coated in rose gold or white gold.
Strap: British green calf leather with a textile texture and brown Alicante lining for the rose gold model, or deep blue calf suede with black Alicante lining for the white gold model; both are hand-stitched.
Price: Price Upon Request
Notes: This model introduces a patented central inertia wheel "dancer" mechanism to solve traditional micro-rotor winding inefficiencies. The movement features a barrel ratchet-wheel cover that is hand-chiselled and finished in signature violet grand feu enamel.