Perrelet x DIAA ALLAM

The collaboration between Swiss manufacturer Perrelet and Emirati artist Diaa Allam represents a specific intersection of mechanical engineering and regional artistic heritage. This partnership has resulted in the release of the Perrelet x Diaa Allam, a timepiece that integrates the brand's signature turbine technology with a bespoke aesthetic grounded in Middle Eastern culture. Limited to just 50 pieces worldwide, the watch serves as a tangible merging of two distinct disciplines: the precise, regulated world of Swiss horology and the fluid, expressive nature of Arabic calligraphy. The release coincides with Dubai Watch Week in November 2025, positioning the watch directly within the market and cultural context that inspired its creation.



Perrelet has long maintained a reputation for kinetic dial animations, primarily through its Turbine collection. The central concept of the Turbine is the placement of a spinning rotor on the dial side, which sits above a lower dial surface. As the wearer moves their wrist, the upper rotor spins, creating an optical effect that reveals the surface beneath. In standard models, this might reveal a solid color or a simple pattern, but in this collaboration, the sub-dial becomes a canvas. This mechanism allows the watch to change its visual character dynamically; it is static one moment and a blur of color and motion the next, responding directly to the physical activity of the user.



Diaa Allam, a celebrated calligrapher from the United Arab Emirates, brings a specific stylistic approach to this project. Known for modernizing traditional Arabic scripts and integrating them into contemporary formats, Allam's work often bridges the gap between ancient communication forms and modern graphic design. For this timepiece, the artwork hidden beneath the turbine blades is not merely a splash of paint but a structured composition. The design draws direct inspiration from traditional Emirati palm weaving, a craft deeply rooted in the history of the region. This weaving motif is reinterpreted through the lens of calligraphy, creating an interlocking pattern of colors and shapes that feels both structural and fluid.



The case of the watch is constructed from Grade 2 titanium, a material chosen for its high strength-to-weight ratio. Titanium is significantly lighter than stainless steel, which improves the wearability of the 41mm case, especially given the slightly thicker profile required to house the turbine mechanism. To achieve a sleek, stealthy aesthetic that contrasts with the vibrant dial, the titanium has been treated with a black Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coating. This coating not only changes the color of the metal to a deep, matte black but also enhances its surface hardness, providing substantial resistance against scratches and daily wear.



Visually, the watch presents a stark, monochromatic exterior that frames the explosion of color within the dial. The black turbine blades, when stationary, obscure much of the artwork, offering only glimpses of the teal, yellow, purple, blue, red, and pink hues underneath. However, once the turbine is set in motion, these colors blend and shift, creating a cohesive visual tapestry that rotates at high speed. The chapter ring surrounding the turbine features applied Arabic numerals, further reinforcing the regional theme. These numerals are treated with luminous material, ensuring that the time remains legible even in low-light conditions, maintaining the watch's utility alongside its artistic merit.



The sapphire crystal protecting the dial is treated with a double anti-reflective coating. This is a crucial detail for a watch with a black dial and complex internal components, as it minimizes glare and ensures that the view of the turbine and the artwork beneath remains unobstructed. The clarity of the glass allows the wearer to appreciate the depth of the dial construction, where the spinning blades sit perceptibly higher than the painted surface, creating a three-dimensional architectural effect that is characteristic of the Turbine series.



Turning the watch over reveals the mechanical heart of the timepiece through a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback. The movement powering this limited edition is the varying Calibre P-331-MH, an in-house automatic movement manufactured by Perrelet. This is a significant engine, boasting certification from both COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) and Chronofiable®. The COSC certification guarantees the movement's accuracy falls within strict daily variation tolerances, ensuring that the artistic elements do not come at the expense of timekeeping precision.



The Chronofiable® certification is equally important, though often less discussed in consumer circles. This certification focuses on durability and aging. It subjects the movement to accelerated aging cycles, simulating six months of wear in just a few weeks, along with tests for pull forces on the stem and pushers, and resistance to shocks and magnetism. By achieving this standard, Perrelet ensures that the P-331-MH is not just accurate in a static position but robust enough to handle the rigors of long-term daily use. This focus on reliability creates a compelling contrast with the delicate, intricate nature of the calligraphy it powers.



The movement itself is finished with a level of detail expected at this price point. The main plate features circular graining, while the bridges are sandblasted and rhodium-plated, providing a clean, industrial look. The oscillating weight—distinct from the turbine on the dial side—is hollowed out and personalized, featuring the Perrelet logo. The integration of gold-toned lettering on the crystal or the rotor itself adds a layer of exclusivity, marking the specific limited nature of the edition. The text on the caseback often includes the individual number of the watch, such as "01 of 50," cementing its collectibility.



Technical specifications of the movement include a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz. This high beat rate contributes to the smooth sweep of the seconds hand and the overall stability of the rate. The movement contains 25 jewels, which serve to reduce friction at critical pivot points, prolonging the life of the mechanism. With a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound, the watch can be left off the wrist for nearly two days without stopping, a practical feature for those who may rotate between different watches in a collection.



The shock protection system employed is the Incabloc® shock absorber, which protects the balance wheel pivots from damage during impacts. This is a standard but essential feature for any modern mechanical watch, particularly one with a titanium case that implies a degree of sportiness. The movement also features a fine adjustment device, allowing watchmakers to regulate the timing with high precision during service intervals. These technical details underpin the watch’s status as a serious horological instrument, rather than just a design object.



The strap choice for this edition is a black rubber strap, which complements the sporty, contemporary feel of the DLC-coated case. Rubber is an ideal material for daily wear, as it is impervious to water and sweat, and offers a degree of flexibility that metal bracelets or leather straps cannot match. The strap integrates seamlessly with the lugs of the case, creating a unified silhouette that wraps comfortably around the wrist. The black-on-black aesthetic of the strap and case directs all attention to the dial, ensuring that the kinetic art remains the focal point of the design.



Water resistance is rated at 10 ATM, or 100 meters. This level of resistance is sufficient for swimming and general water exposure, making the watch a viable companion for most recreational activities. While it is not a dedicated dive watch, the 10 ATM rating provides peace of mind that the intricate mechanics and the custom artwork inside are well-protected against moisture ingress. The combination of a screw-down caseback and substantial gaskets ensures the integrity of the case sealing.



The dimensions of the watch are carefully balanced. At 41mm in diameter, it sits in a sweet spot that accommodates a wide range of wrist sizes. It is large enough to provide a generous canvas for the turbine and the artwork but not so large as to be unwieldy. The thickness of 13.90mm is substantial, largely due to the vertical space required for the turbine mechanism and the automatic winding system, but the lightweight titanium construction helps to mitigate the feeling of bulk. The fitting diameter of the movement is 25.60mm, while the total movement diameter is slightly larger at 26.20mm, indicating a movement that is appropriately sized for the case.



The packaging for the Perrelet x Diaa Allam is as thoughtfully designed as the watch itself. The timepiece arrives in a special presentation box that features the same colorful, woven calligraphy motif found on the dial. Opening the box reveals the watch sitting against a dark interior, with the vibrant artwork on the inside of the lid immediately catching the eye. Included with the watch is a certificate of authenticity and the official COSC chronometer certificate, documenting the specific performance of the movement during testing. This attention to the unboxing experience reinforces the limited nature of the product.



The artwork by Diaa Allam is worth examining in greater detail. The intertwining lines of the calligraphy mimic the physical structure of palm weaving, creating a lattice of color that feels organic. The colors used—bright turquoises, deep reds, warm yellows, and muted purples—are not random but are chosen to vibrate against one another. When the black turbine spins over this complex background, the phenomenon known as the persistence of vision blends the colors, creating a new, shifting hue that seems to float above the dial. This interaction invites the wearer to constantly engage with the watch, flicking the wrist to activate the display.



From a collector's perspective, the use of Arabic numerals on the chapter ring is a significant detail. It contextualizes the watch within the Middle Eastern market, which has become an increasingly important hub for luxury watchmaking. The font used for the numerals is stylized to match the fluidity of Allam’s calligraphy, ensuring that the functional elements of the dial do not clash with the artistic ones. The red central seconds hand provides a sharp contrast to the black and the multi-colored background, offering excellent legibility and a sporty touch.



The collaboration is a testament to Perrelet’s willingness to experiment with its core identity. While the Turbine has seen many iterations, from skulls to playing cards, the partnership with a regional artist like Diaa Allam elevates the concept from pop culture reference to fine art. It acknowledges the global nature of the watch community and the specific importance of the UAE in the current horological landscape. By launching the watch at Dubai Watch Week, Perrelet ensures that the piece is introduced directly to the audience that will appreciate its cultural nuance the most.



Pricing for the Perrelet x Diaa Allam is set at $5,450.00. Given the materials—Grade 2 titanium, DLC coating, sapphire crystal—and the technical specifications of the COSC-certified in-house movement, the price point places it competitively within the luxury sector. The extreme limitation of only 50 pieces worldwide suggests that availability will be scarce, likely restricted to select retailers or the brand's own channels during the launch event. For those interested in acquiring this fusion of Swiss mechanics and Arabic artistry, acting quickly during the Dubai launch window will likely be essential.



Case: 41mm diameter, 13.90mm thickness, round Grade 2 titanium with black DLC coating. Water resistant to 10 ATM (100 meters). Features a double anti-reflective sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback.

Movement: In-house manufactured mechanical automatic calibre P-331-MH. COSC and Chronofiable® certified with a frequency of 28,800 A/h (4 Hz), 25 jewels, and a 42-hour power reserve. Features circular grained and sandblasted rhodium-plated finishes with a hollowed, personalized oscillating weight.

Dial: Turbine technology with black blades revealing a multi-colored bespoke artwork by Diaa Allam inspired by Emirati palm weaving and Arabic calligraphy. Features luminous Arabic numerals and central hands for hours, minutes, and seconds.

Strap: Black rubber strap.

Price: $5,450.00

Reference Number: A4067/S8

Notes: Limited edition of 50 pieces created in collaboration with UAE calligrapher Diaa Allam. Officially revealed during Dubai Watch Week 2025.