Perrelet is set to introduce two new collections for women at the 2025 edition of Geneva Watch Days, named Cleopatra and Joséphine. These lines are designed as exquisite jewelry timepieces, heavily adorned with natural diamonds and centered around the brand's unique Double Rotor mechanism, which has been reinterpreted to achieve new levels of luxurious design. These watches aim to capture the essence of their namesakes, paying tribute to the enduring charm and beauty of women through horological artistry.
The foundation of Perrelet’s watchmaking identity rests on a rich history of mechanical innovation. The Maison’s founder, Abraham-Louis Perrelet, was a pioneering figure in the 18th century, recognized for creating one of the earliest self-winding mechanisms. He devised a system that could capture the kinetic energy from the wearer's movements to automatically wind a pocket watch, eliminating the need for a separate key. This spirit of invention became a core tenet of the brand, with subsequent generations of watchmakers continuing to refine and develop complex components and complications.
Courtesy of Perrelet
This legacy of forward-thinking design led to a significant development in 1995 when Perrelet patented the Double Rotor. This invention was a technical departure from conventional automatic movements. The system utilizes two distinct oscillating weights to wind the mainspring. One rotor is positioned in the traditional location on the back of the movement, while a second, synchronized rotor is placed on the dial side. The combined and coordinated motion of these two masses provides a more consistent and efficient power source for the watch's barrel, which can enhance the stability and accuracy of its timekeeping.
Beyond its technical advantages, the Double Rotor offers a compelling visual experience. The constant, fluid motion of the upper rotor transforms the dial into a dynamic display, allowing the owner to observe the automatic winding process in action. This feature became a signature of Perrelet, blending mechanical function with a captivating aesthetic that brings the watch face to life. It is this unique element that forms the centerpiece of the new Cleopatra and Joséphine collections.
Perrelet first adapted its Double Rotor for a women's collection in 2008 with the Diamond Flower series. In these models, the dial-side rotor was reimagined as a creative canvas, taking on forms like a moon shape embellished with mother-of-pearl or intricately carved floral motifs, often set with precious stones. This approach continued to evolve, culminating in the 2015 Amytis collection, which marked the 20th anniversary of the Double Rotor. Named for the Babylonian queen, the Amytis featured a rotor composed of stylized petals and leaves, further showcasing the brand’s ability to merge mechanics with jewelry design.
For 2025, Perrelet turns to two of history’s most influential female figures for inspiration: Cleopatra and Joséphine de Beauharnais. Each collection features a distinct and newly designed Double Rotor that reflects the character of its namesake. These pieces are not merely watches; they are statements of personality and artistry, powered by a mechanism that is both technically sophisticated and visually mesmerizing.
Courtesy of Perrelet
The Cleopatra model channels the mystique of ancient Egypt and the legendary allure of its last queen. The Double Rotor on this timepiece is configured to resemble a delicate fan, composed of a round frame set with 20 diamonds and ten twisted "leaves," each adorned with a diamond and a mother-of-pearl inlay. The result is a total of 30 diamonds on the rotor, which spins gracefully with the slightest movement of the wrist, creating a subtle yet captivating dance across the dial. This design evokes a sense of ancient luxury and refined power, befitting the queen it is named after.
The Joséphine edition draws its inspiration from Joséphine de Beauharnais, the first Empress of France and a celebrated patron of the arts. This model's Double Rotor is designed to evoke a brilliant cascade of diamonds, resembling a firework bursting from the center of the dial. The stones are set along polished, rhodium-plated rays that radiate outwards. A total of 33 diamonds of varying sizes are meticulously set into this structure, creating an explosion of light and sparkle as the rotor moves. The design reflects the opulence and grace of the French imperial court.
In both collections, the rotors are meticulously crafted, demonstrating Perrelet's mastery of Métiers d'Arts. The surfaces are polished and beveled, and the precious stones are set with precision. As these rotors spin over the watch face, they interact with the light and the underlying dial texture, producing an ever-changing spectacle of iridescent flashes and reflections. The constant motion serves as a visual reminder of the mechanical heart beating within.
The case for both the Cleopatra and Joséphine watches is constructed from grade 2 titanium, a material chosen for its lightweight and hypoallergenic properties, ensuring comfort on the wrist. The round case measures 36.5 mm in diameter, with a thickness of 12.9 mm, striking a balance that is substantial yet wearable. The case middle and lugs feature a polished finish, enhancing the watch's lustrous appearance. Each model is offered with two bezel options: a clean, polished titanium bezel or a more lavish version set with 64 full-cut diamonds, totaling nearly a carat.
Courtesy of Perrelet
The dials of both collections serve as a textured backdrop for the animated rotors. Each dial is embellished with an embossed sunray pattern that radiates from the center, creating a sense of depth and playing with light. The Cleopatra models feature a single solitaire diamond set as the hour marker at 12 o'clock, a subtle yet distinct detail. In contrast, the Joséphine collection uses rhodium-plated, faceted round hour markers for all positions, which catch the light like small jewels.
Perrelet has curated a specific color palette for each collection, with names that evoke the worlds of their respective historical figures. The Cleopatra is available in five shades: Perle du Nile (white mother-of-pearl), Azur de Thèbes (sky blue), Rosée d'Alexandrie (pink), Plume de Paon (petrol green), and Kohl Eternel (anthracite). The Joséphine collection offers its own distinct range: Perle Impériale (white mother-of-pearl), Bleu de Saxe (blue), Soie des boudoirs (pink), Vert Impérial (green), and Velours de Napoléon (black).
Each watch is fitted with a five-row bracelet also crafted from grade 2 titanium, featuring a mix of polished and satin-finished links for added visual texture. The bracelet secures with a folding clasp personalized with the Perrelet logo. For versatility, the watches incorporate a quick-release system, allowing the wearer to easily swap the titanium bracelet for an additional calf leather strap that is included with the purchase. The leather strap is color-matched to the dial, offering a refined, monochrome look that further accentuates the Double Rotor.
Powering these timepieces is the in-house automatic calibre P-181-H. This movement is the product of five years of dedicated development, specifically focused on perfecting the integration and performance of the patented Double Rotor system. Despite the complexity of having a second oscillating weight on the dial side, the movement maintains a relatively slim profile of 4.9 mm.
A notable technical feature of the P-181-H is that the dial-side rotor is mounted on a ruby jewel rather than on ball bearings, which are used for the caseback rotor. This construction reduces the friction coefficient, contributing to the movement's efficiency and helping it achieve a 42-hour power reserve when fully wound. This detail underscores the meticulous engineering that went into creating a movement that is both reliable and visually unique.
Courtesy of Perrelet
The calibre P-181-H is composed of 100 components and 26 jewels, operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) for smooth and accurate timekeeping. The movement is equipped with an Incabloc® shock absorption system to protect the delicate balance wheel. The finishing of the calibre adheres to the high standards of Swiss watchmaking.
Through the anti-reflective sapphire crystal caseback, the intricate details of the movement are on full display. The mainplate features circular graining, while the bridges are decorated with the classic Côtes de Genève pattern. The traditional oscillating weight on the back is openworked to reveal more of the mechanism beneath and is engraved with the Perrelet logo, completing a presentation that is as carefully considered as the dial side.
The Cleopatra and Joséphine collections represent a thoughtful fusion of Perrelet's mechanical identity with the artistry of high jewelry. The use of grade 2 titanium for the case and bracelet makes these diamond-set timepieces surprisingly light and comfortable for daily wear, while the animated dials provide a unique and personal connection to the watch's inner workings. The constant motion is a defining characteristic that sets these pieces apart from static jewelry watches.
The choice of namesakes is also significant. By invoking Cleopatra and Joséphine, Perrelet aligns these creations with figures known for their strength, influence, and appreciation for beauty. This narrative layer adds depth to the collections, suggesting that the watches are intended for modern women who embody similar qualities of charisma and sophistication.
Courtesy of Perrelet
The combination of an in-house, patented movement with intricate gem-setting and artistic dial work positions these watches in a unique niche. They appeal to those who appreciate not only the external beauty of a timepiece but also the complex mechanics that bring it to life. The Double Rotor is more than just a winding mechanism; it is the animated soul of the watch.
The Cleopatra and Joséphine collections will be made available for early purchase on Perrelet's official website in Europe and the United States starting in October 2025. A worldwide release at authorized retailers is scheduled for December 2025. The models with a polished bezel are priced at CHF 6,000.00, while the versions with the diamond-set bezel are priced at CHF 8,500.00, reflecting the craftsmanship and precious materials involved in their creation.
Case: Round, grade 2 titanium; 36.5 mm diameter, 12.9 mm thickness; Polished finish with optional bezel set with 64 diamonds (0.914 ct); Water resistance 5 ATM; Anti-reflective sapphire crystal on dial and case back.
Movement: In-house automatic calibre Perrelet P-181-H; Patented Double Rotor Technology; 26 jewels; 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 42-hour power reserve.
Dial: Embossed sunray pattern in various colors. Cleopatra: Fan-shaped rotor with 30 diamonds (0.14 ct) and mother-of-pearl, single diamond hour marker at 12. Joséphine: Radiating ray rotor with 33 diamonds (0.19 ct), faceted rhodium-plated hour markers.
Strap: Five-row grade 2 titanium bracelet (polished and satin-finished) with folding clasp; Includes additional color-matched calf leather strap with quick-release system.
Price: CHF 6,000.00 (polished bezel); CHF 8,500.00 (diamond-set bezel).
Reference Number: Cleopatra: A2071/1-5 & A2072/1-5. Joséphine: A2071/A-E & A2072/A-E.
Notes: The watch features Perrelet's signature Double Rotor on the dial. The Cleopatra model has a fan-shaped rotor with diamonds and mother-of-pearl, while the Joséphine model's rotor resembles a firework burst of 33 diamonds.