Parmigiani Fleurier introduces a compelling new iteration within its celebrated Tonda PF collection, the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm in Steel and Rose Gold. This particular model, distinguished by its Deep Ruby dial, builds upon the foundation of its predecessor, which earned a prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) award in 2022. The new timepiece is a study in material contrast and chromatic depth, blending the cool strength of stainless steel with the warm glow of 18-carat rose gold. It maintains the collection’s signature design codes while introducing a color palette that feels both assertive and sophisticated, aimed at an audience that values nuanced expressions of luxury.
The journey of Parmigiani Fleurier is inextricably linked to its founder, Michel Parmigiani, a master watchmaker and restorer. His career began in the restoration of priceless historical clocks and automata, a field that demands an almost impossibly deep understanding of horological history, mechanics, and artistry. This background instilled in him a profound respect for classical watchmaking techniques and proportions. When he founded his own brand in 1996 with the support of the Sandoz Family Foundation, it was with the mission to create timepieces that honored these traditions while pushing the boundaries of contemporary design and mechanical innovation. The manufacture quickly became known for its vertical integration, producing nearly every component in-house, from the smallest screws to the balance springs and cases.
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This philosophy of self-sufficiency and dedication to craft is the bedrock upon which the entire brand is built. Parmigiani Fleurier’s approach is not one of mass production but of meticulous creation. The brand’s ethos revolves around a concept of discreet luxury, where the value is found not in overt branding or flashy design, but in the subtle interplay of finishes, the perfection of proportions, and the quiet excellence of the mechanics within. Every surface, whether visible or hidden behind a case back, receives an extraordinary level of attention, from the hand-guilloché dials to the beveled bridges of the movements. This commitment ensures that each timepiece is a cohesive work of art, reflecting a deep-seated passion for horology that originated in the workshops of restoration.
The Tonda PF collection, launched to great acclaim, represents a modern chapter for the brand, masterfully guided by CEO Guido Terreni. This line distills the core principles of Parmigiani Fleurier into a more contemporary, integrated sports watch form. The collection is defined by several key visual signatures: a finely knurled bezel, a minimalist dial with a subtle guilloché pattern, the integrated bracelet that flows seamlessly from the case, and the iconic delta-shaped hands. The Tonda PF successfully translates the brand’s high-horology spirit into a design that is versatile and suitable for daily wear, without sacrificing any of the intricate detailing or mechanical integrity for which the manufacture is known. It speaks a language of refined understatement, appealing to collectors who prefer their luxury to be personal and discovered rather than broadcasted.
Examining the case of the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Steel Rose Gold Deep Ruby reveals a masterful execution of form and function. The 36.1 mm diameter is a deliberate choice, catering to a growing preference for more classically proportioned watches that offer superior comfort and a more refined presence on the wrist. With a slender thickness of just 8.6 mm, the watch sits low and comfortably, easily sliding under a cuff. This thoughtful sizing makes the timepiece exceptionally versatile, equally appropriate for a variety of wrist sizes and occasions. The ergonomic design is a testament to the brand's focus on the wearer's experience, ensuring that the physical interaction with the watch is as pleasing as its visual appeal.
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The case construction is a harmonious blend of stainless steel and 18-carat rose gold. The main body of the case is crafted from steel, providing a durable and resilient foundation. This is contrasted by the distinctive knurled bezel, which is rendered in solid 18-carat rose gold. This signature element, with its fine, precise fluting, catches and reflects light in a way that is both subtle and captivating. The surfaces of the case feature a dynamic interplay between satin-brushed and polished finishes, a complex treatment that accentuates the flowing lines of the Tonda PF design. The lugs, for instance, have polished upper facets that transition smoothly into brushed sides, demonstrating a high level of artisanal finishing that adds considerable visual depth.
Functionality has not been overlooked in the pursuit of aesthetic perfection. The timepiece is rated for a water resistance of 100 meters, a capability that makes it a practical companion for everyday life, capable of withstanding splashes, rain, and even swimming. This robustness is supported by a screw-down crown, also crafted from 18-carat rose gold and finished with a similar knurled pattern as the bezel for enhanced grip. Protecting the intricate dial is a sapphire crystal with an ARunic anti-reflective coating, which minimizes glare and ensures maximum clarity from any angle. The case back is also fitted with a sapphire crystal, offering an unobstructed view of the beautifully decorated in-house movement.
The dial is arguably the most captivating feature of this Tonda PF model. The color, described as "Deep Ruby," is a rich and complex shade that shifts in character depending on the ambient light. As the brand's CEO, Guido Terreni, suggests, the color is not a flat, static burgundy but a dynamic hue that can appear as a soft plum in one moment and a deep, intense cherry in the next. This nuanced color choice positions the watch as a sophisticated alternative to the more common black, blue, or silver dials prevalent in the industry, offering a touch of warmth and individuality.
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Further enhancing the dial's allure is the intricate "Grain d'Orge" guilloché pattern. This traditional decorative technique, performed by hand by skilled artisans, creates a fine, barleycorn texture that radiates from the center of the dial. The microscopic pattern interacts with light in a fascinating way, creating a shimmering effect that gives the dial a sense of life and depth. It is a testament to Parmigiani Fleurier's dedication to preserving and celebrating classical horological crafts. This subtle yet complex texture provides the perfect canvas for the other dial elements, preventing the rich ruby color from appearing monolithic.
In place of printed or applied metal markers, the hours are indicated by twelve baguette-cut diamonds. These gemstones are of exceptional quality, rated D-G for color and IF-VVS for clarity, with a total weight of approximately 0.36 carats. Each diamond is hand-applied and meticulously set, their clean, geometric lines providing a brilliant contrast to the organic texture of the guilloché. The use of baguette diamonds instead of more common brilliant-cut stones is a deliberate choice that aligns with the Tonda PF's refined and architectural aesthetic. The hands are the collection's signature delta-shaped design, skeletonized and crafted from 18-carat rose gold to match the bezel and crown, ensuring excellent legibility against the dark ruby background.
The bracelet of the Tonda PF is a critical component of its identity, designed not as a separate attachment but as an organic extension of the case. Its construction is remarkably fluid, creating an effect described by the brand as a "river of gold" flowing around the wrist. The design integrates stainless steel and 18-carat rose gold links, transcending the typical two-tone approach by making the gold an essential structural element. The central links of the bracelet are crafted from solid rose gold, flanked on either side by satin-finished stainless steel links, creating a striking and luxurious visual pathway.
Ergonomics are central to the bracelet's design. The links are carefully tapered from the case towards the clasp, a subtle but significant detail that ensures the bracelet wraps the wrist securely and comfortably. This gradual reduction in width contributes to the watch's overall balanced feel and visual harmony. The finishing on the bracelet mirrors that of the case, with a primary satin-brushed finish on the flat surfaces complemented by polished chamfers along the edges of the links. This mix of textures creates a constant play of light as the wrist moves. The bracelet is secured by a sturdy stainless steel folding clasp, which integrates smoothly into the final links for a clean, uninterrupted look.
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Visible through the sapphire case back is the in-house Caliber PF770-HM, an automatic movement that showcases Parmigiani Fleurier's technical prowess. This slim yet robust engine provides the hours and minutes, operating at a modern frequency of 4 Hz, or 28,800 vibrations per hour. This high frequency contributes to greater precision and stability in timekeeping. The movement offers a substantial power reserve of 60 hours, meaning the watch can be taken off for a full weekend and will still be running on Monday morning, a feature that adds a layer of practical convenience for the owner.
The architecture and decoration of the PF770-HM are executed to the highest standards of Swiss watchmaking. The bridges are adorned with traditional "Côtes de Genève" stripes, a classic form of decoration that creates a wave-like pattern across the surface. All the edges of the bridges are meticulously beveled and polished by hand, a process known as anglage, which catches the light and outlines the shape of each component. These finishing techniques are not merely decorative; they are a hallmark of a high-end movement, reflecting the immense amount of skilled labor invested in its creation. With 179 components and 29 jewels, the caliber is a testament to efficient and refined mechanical engineering.
A highlight of the movement's visual appeal is the oscillating weight, or rotor, which is responsible for automatically winding the mainspring. Crafted from solid 22-carat rose gold to provide greater winding efficiency due to its density, the rotor is fully skeletonized. Its open-worked design features the Parmigiani Fleurier "PF" logo at its center. The rotor's surface is treated with a combination of polished and sandblasted finishes, creating a sophisticated texture and depth that complements the decoration on the bridges below. This level of attention to an internal component underscores the brand’s philosophy that every part of the watch, seen or unseen, deserves to be finished to perfection.
The Tonda PF collection, and this Steel Gold Deep Ruby model in particular, embodies the maison's modern vision. It is a watch that communicates its quality through feel, finish, and proportion rather than through loud branding. The philosophy is one of creating an intimate object for the wearer, a piece that reveals its complexities and craftsmanship over time. This approach values authenticity and innovation equally, resulting in a timepiece that feels both contemporary in its design and deeply rooted in the traditions of fine watchmaking.
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This latest interpretation invites collectors to appreciate the profound pleasure of a watch that balances precious materials with a restrained aesthetic. The blend of steel and rose gold offers a versatile look, while the deep ruby dial provides a unique and expressive personality. It is a timepiece that doesn't demand attention but confidently earns it through its exceptional execution and thoughtfully considered design. It serves as a powerful statement of the brand's dedication to creating objects of quiet confidence and enduring quality.
Positioned in the market with a retail price of CHF 32,300, this timepiece competes in a highly discerning segment. Its value proposition is built not on brand ubiquity but on genuine watchmaking artistry, from the hand-guilloché dial and diamond setting to the impeccably finished in-house movement. The watch is available through authorized Parmigiani Fleurier retailers and boutiques worldwide.
Case: Polished and satin-finished stainless steel and 18ct rose gold with a knurled bezel. Diameter: 36 mm, Thickness: 8.6 mm. ARunic anti-reflective sapphire crystal and sapphire case back. Water resistance of 100m with a screwed-in crown.
Movement: Caliber PF770-HM automatic winding manufacture movement. 60-hour power reserve, 28,800 Vph (4 Hz) frequency, 29 jewels, 179 components. Features a skeletonized 22ct rose gold oscillating weight with Côtes de Genève decoration and beveled bridges.
Dial: Deep Ruby color with "Grain d’Orge" hand-guilloché finishing. Indices are set with 12 baguette diamonds (approx. 0.36 ct). Hands are 18ct rose gold skeletonized delta-shaped.
Strap: Integrated polished and satin-finished bracelet in 18ct rose gold and stainless steel. Stainless steel folding clasp.
Price: CHF 32,300
Reference Number: PFC804-1020006-100182
Notes: This model is an evolution of the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm which won a GPHG award in 2022. The dial features a traditional hand-guilloché pattern.