The annual gathering of enthusiasts and industry insiders at Dubai Watch Week has become a critical staging ground for brands to launch new concepts outside of the traditional Swiss trade show cycle. For the 2025 edition of the event, Oris has unveiled a timepiece that feels specifically engineered for the host region’s geography while maintaining the functional utility the brand is known for. The Oris ProPilot Desert Edition arrives as a specialized iteration of the recently updated ProPilot Date, blending advanced material science with a color palette drawn directly from arid landscapes. It represents a continued push by the independent Swiss manufacturer to modernize their pilot’s watch offerings, moving away from purely vintage cues toward something more technical and contemporary.
Oris has a long and established history in aviation timekeeping, dating back to the early days of flight when wristwatches were essential tools for navigation. While many know the brand for their Big Crown models which lean heavily on nostalgia and retro styling, the ProPilot line has always served a different purpose in their catalog. It is the modern wing of their pilot collection, designed to prioritize legibility, reliability, and ergonomics without the need for faux-patina or historical reenactment. The introduction of the Desert Edition underscores this focus, utilizing high-tech manufacturing processes to create a watch that is physically robust yet surprisingly light on the wrist.
Courtesy of Oris
The most striking visual element of this new release is undoubtedly the dial, which features a color and texture Oris refers to as "sandbeige." Rather than a flat, painted surface, the dial presents a granular, matte finish that mimics the organic irregularity of desert sand. This texture prevents glare, a crucial feature for a pilot’s watch where reflection can hinder readability in bright cockpits or under the harsh sun. The beige tone is warm but muted, avoiding the starkness of white or the commonality of black, giving the watch a distinct military-industrial aesthetic that feels at home in tactical environments.
Contrasting sharply against this sandy backdrop are the indices and hands. The hour markers are applied Arabic numerals rendered in a solid, deep black. They stand tall off the dial surface, creating a sense of depth and ensuring that the time can be read at a mere glance. The decision to use black rather than polished silver or gold ensures that there are no distracting reflections. The hands follow suit, painted black to match the numerals, but they are tipped with luminescent material to provide low-light visibility.
A subtle but effective use of color is present in the red accents scattered across the dial. The tip of the seconds hand is painted a vibrant red, tracking along the outer minute track with a smooth sweep. Additionally, the text "PROPILOT" printed on the lower half of the dial is executed in the same red hue. These small pops of color break up the monochrome dominance of the beige and black, adding a sporty character to the face without compromising the overall utility-focused design language. It is a restrained approach to branding that enthusiasts often appreciate, keeping the dial uncluttered.
Housing this dial is a case that signifies a departure from standard stainless steel construction. The 41.00 mm case is crafted from a multi-piece carbon fiber composite. This is not the traditional woven carbon fiber often seen in automotive applications, but rather a material produced using an innovative 3D printing and molding technique. The result is a case that is exceptionally lightweight and possesses a unique, randomized surface pattern. The matte, dark grey charcoal tone of the carbon fiber absorbs light rather than reflecting it, reinforcing the stealthy, tool-watch vibe of the piece.
Courtesy of Oris
The engineering behind this carbon case is significant because it originated from Oris’s technical partnerships and experiments in additive manufacturing. By printing and molding the carbon, the engineers can achieve precise shapes that machining solid blocks of carbon might struggle to replicate efficiently. This method ensures that the structural integrity of the case is maintained while keeping the weight to an absolute minimum. For a watch measuring 41 mm, the lack of heft is immediately noticeable, making it a comfortable companion for all-day wear in hot climates where a heavy steel watch might become burdensome.
While the main body of the case is carbon, Oris has utilized stainless steel for key components to ensure durability and functionality. The bezel, crown, and case back are made of steel but have been treated with a grey PVD coating. This gunmetal-grey finish allows these metal parts to blend seamlessly with the dark tones of the carbon fiber mid-case. The bezel itself features the signature ProPilot "turbine" knurling. This angled, spiral groove pattern is designed to resemble the blades of a jet engine turbine, providing not just a visual link to aviation but also a tactile grip for handling the watch.
The crown at the 3 o’clock position is screw-down, contributing to the watch’s 10 bar (100 meters) water resistance rating. It is oversized, a traditional trait of pilot watches that historically allowed pilots to adjust their timepieces while wearing thick leather gloves. On this modern iteration, the size simply aids in easy operation. The grey PVD finish on the crown matches the bezel perfectly, creating a uniform look that disrupts the visual break between materials.
Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal that is domed on both sides. The double-doming is a premium feature that helps to minimize optical distortion when viewing the dial from acute angles. Oris has applied an anti-reflective coating to the inside of the crystal. This placement is strategic; by keeping the coating on the inside, it cannot be scratched off during daily wear, maintaining the clarity of the view indefinitely. The clarity of the glass combined with the high-contrast dial makes for an incredibly legible experience.
Courtesy of Oris
Turning the watch over reveals a screwed-in case back featuring a see-through mineral glass window. While sapphire is used on the front, mineral glass is often chosen for case backs in this segment to manage costs without sacrificing the view. Through this window, the wearer can view the mechanical heart of the watch. The rim of the case back is also grey PVD-plated steel, engraved with special text denoting the "Desert Edition" status and other technical specifications like the water resistance and Swiss origin.
Powering the ProPilot Desert Edition is the Oris Caliber 733. This automatic movement is based on the reliable Swiss Sellita SW200-1 architecture, a movement known for its serviceability and robustness. It beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), ensuring a smooth sweep of the seconds hand. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 41 hours. While not a multi-day power reserve found in some of the brand's in-house calibers, the Caliber 733 is a proven workhorse that offers instantaneous date changing and a stop-second mechanism for precise time setting.
Visible through the exhibition case back is the signature Oris Red Rotor. This rotating weight is a trademark of the brand’s automatic watches, symbolizing their philosophy of "High Mech" at an accessible price point. The red lacquer on the rotor provides a stark contrast to the industrial silver tones of the movement bridges and gears. It is a detail that is hidden from the world when the watch is on the wrist but serves as a private reminder of the brand’s identity to the owner.
The strap attached to the Desert Edition is as technical as the case itself. It is a hybrid construction, combining a durable black rubber base with a textile upper layer. This combination offers the best of both worlds: the comfort and sweat resistance of rubber against the skin, and the aesthetic appeal and toughness of fabric on the exterior. The strap features a woven pattern that complements the tactical look of the carbon case. It is flexible and requires no break-in period, conforming to the wrist immediately out of the box.
Courtesy of Oris
Securing the strap is Oris’s patented "LIFT" clasp. This mechanism is inspired by the seatbelt buckles found in commercial aircraft. To open it, one must lift a tab labeled "LIFT," mimicking the motion of unbuckling a seatbelt. It is a clever, thematic touch that adds a level of interaction to the watch distinct from standard pin buckles or deployants. For this new edition, the clasp has been redesigned to offer finer stepless adjustment, allowing the wearer to dial in the perfect fit as their wrist expands or contracts in the heat.
The interhorn width of the watch is 20 mm, a standard size that allows for a wide variety of aftermarket strap options should the owner wish to switch things up. However, the provided hybrid strap is integrated well with the design, tapering slightly to reduce bulk. The lugs curve downward gently, ensuring that the 41 mm case hugs the wrist rather than sitting proudly on top of it. This ergonomic profile is essential for a watch intended for "everyday adventure," as it prevents the watch from snagging on gear or clothing.
Oris highlights its relationship with Coulson Aviation, a leader in aerial firefighting. While this Desert Edition stands on its own as a thematic release, the carbon fiber technology used in the case was honed through projects like the Coulson Limited Edition. The lightweight and heat-resistant properties of the carbon material are spiritually aligned with the needs of pilots who operate in extreme environments, such as those combating forest fires.
The functionality of the ProPilot Desert Edition extends to its date display. Located at the 3 o’clock position, the date window is discreet yet legible. Oris has opted for a black background with white numerals for the date wheel. This color matching is a detail often overlooked by other manufacturers who leave the date wheel white on a dark dial. By matching the date wheel to the black accents of the numerals, the window integrates seamlessly into the overall design without disrupting the visual balance of the sand-colored dial.
Courtesy of Oris
Durability is a key component of the Oris value proposition. The use of PVD coating on the steel parts provides an extra layer of protection against scratches and corrosion. The carbon fiber mid-case is inherently resistant to impacts and does not show scratches in the same way polished metal does. The sapphire crystal is second only to diamond in hardness, ensuring the face remains pristine. With 100 meters of water resistance, the watch is capable of handling swimming and exposure to water, making it a true "go anywhere, do anything" tool watch.
The ProPilot Desert Edition is priced at USD 3,500.00. This positioning reflects the use of advanced materials like the 3D-printed carbon fiber and the specialized manufacturing processes involved. It sits at the higher end of the ProPilot range powered by third-party movements but offers a material specification that is often found in much more expensive timepieces. The watch is available through authorized Oris retailers and boutiques, arriving just in time to capture the attention of collectors looking for a rugged, visually distinct daily wearer that breaks the mold of the traditional steel pilot’s watch.
Case: Multi-piece carbon fibre and stainless steel case with grey PVD plating. 41.00 mm diameter with 20 mm interhorn width. Sapphire crystal, domed on both sides with anti-reflective coating inside. Grey PVD plated stainless steel screwed case back with see-through mineral glass and special engravings. Water resistant to 10 bar.
Movement: Oris Caliber 733 automatic winding movement. Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds with date window, instantaneous date, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second. 28,800 A/h (4 Hz) vibrations. 41-hour power reserve.
Dial: Grained sandbeige dial with high-contrast black numerals and hands. Lume-tipped hands with red detailing on the seconds hand and text.
Strap: Black hybrid rubber and textile strap. Redesigned LIFT clasp with stepless adjustment.
Price: USD 3,500.00
Reference Number: 01 733 7802 8766-07 4 20 30GLC
Notes: A surprise release introduced at Dubai Watch Week 2025. Features a lightweight carbon fibre case produced using an innovative additive manufacturing and moulding technique.