In the confluence of horological tradition and modern design, certain combinations emerge that feel both inevitable and entirely new.
H. Moser & Cie. has achieved such a synthesis with the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon. This timepiece is not a singular invention but a careful fusion of three established pillars of the brand's identity: the refined Endeavour case, the groundbreaking Perpetual Calendar complication, and the distinctively warm Smoked Salmon dial. The result is a watch that articulates the brand's core principles of minimalist design, mechanical ingenuity, and an unconventional approach to luxury.
The journey of H. Moser & Cie. provides the essential context for a creation like this. Founded in 1828 by Heinrich Moser in St. Petersburg, Russia, the company established its manufacturing base in Switzerland, building a reputation for robust and finely crafted pocket watches. After a period of dormancy during the quartz crisis, the brand was revived in the 21st century in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, returning to its roots as a true manufacture. Today, with a team of around 120 individuals, H. Moser & Cie. produces a limited number of timepieces annually, underscoring a commitment to quality over quantity. This independence is further solidified by its sister company, Precision Engineering AG, which supplies critical components like regulating organs and balance springs not only for Moser but for other esteemed brands, showcasing a profound depth of watchmaking capability.
Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.
At the heart of this particular model's allure is its dial, a surface that commands immediate attention. The "Smoked Salmon" color, which first made a notable appearance in the brand's Streamliner collection, returns here with a new texture and character. The hue itself defies simple categorization, shifting between coppery pinks, warm amber, and rich brown depending on the angle and intensity of the light. It evokes the deep, complex tones of a well-aged single malt whisky, offering a visual warmth that contrasts beautifully with the cool luster of the white gold case.
Further enhancing the dial's character is its vertical griffé finish. This technique imparts a subtle, brushed texture to the surface, creating a grain that runs from top to bottom. This finishing prevents the dial from appearing flat, instead giving it an almost mineral-like quality that catches and plays with light in a dynamic way. Paired with Moser's signature fumé effect—a gradient that darkens towards the dial's periphery—the griffé finish contributes to a remarkable sense of depth and vibrancy, ensuring the watch presents a different facet of its personality with every glance.
True to the manufacturer's minimalist philosophy, the branding on the dial is exceptionally discreet. Instead of an applied metal logo, the H. Moser & Cie. name is rendered in a clear, transparent lacquer. This "secret signature" is visible only at certain angles, a deliberate choice that allows the color and texture of the Smoked Salmon dial to remain the undisputed focal point. It’s a confident expression of identity, one that relies on the watch’s distinctive design cues rather than overt branding to make its mark.
Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.
The canvas for this captivating dial is the Endeavour case, crafted from 18-carat white gold. Measuring 42.0 mm in diameter and 13.1 mm in height, the case possesses a substantial yet balanced presence on the wrist. Its design is a study in neoclassical forms, with sculpted, concave case sides and fluidly integrated lugs that curve downwards to ensure a comfortable fit. The surfaces are meticulously polished, reflecting light with pristine clarity and highlighting the case's complex geometry. A curved sapphire crystal on the front and a see-through sapphire case back complete the structure, offering unimpeded views of the dial and the intricate movement within.
The hands and markers are executed with equal attention to detail. Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, finished in 5N red gold, sweep gracefully over the dial, their warm tone harmonizing perfectly with the salmon hue. The applied hour indices share this red gold finish, their slender forms providing clear legibility without cluttering the dial. This thoughtful coordination of colors and materials demonstrates a holistic design approach where every element is considered in relation to the whole.
The true genius of this timepiece, however, lies in its mechanical heart: the hand-wound HMC 800 Manufacture calibre. This movement is celebrated not just for its complexity but for its revolutionary simplicity in operation. The perpetual calendar, a complication that correctly accounts for the varying lengths of months and leap years, is often presented through a busy array of sub-dials and windows. Moser's interpretation strips away this complexity, integrating the calendar in a way that is both intuitive and visually clean.
The most clever feature of the HMC 800 is its month indicator. A small, central, arrow-tipped hand points to the 12 hour indices, each one doubling as a marker for a month of the year (1 o’clock for January, 2 o’clock for February, and so on). This simple solution eliminates the need for a dedicated sub-dial, preserving the dial’s clean aesthetic. This is a perpetual calendar that doesn't shout about its complexity; it whispers it.
Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.
Complementing the month display is a large date window at 3 o’clock. This is not a slow-changing date. The movement incorporates a "Flash Calendar" mechanism, which ensures the date jumps instantaneously at the stroke of midnight. This feature is not only satisfying to watch but also a testament to the movement's precise engineering.
Perhaps the most significant functional advantage of the HMC 800 calibre is its user-friendliness. Unlike many perpetual calendar movements, which can be easily damaged if adjusted at the wrong time of day, the Moser calibre allows the owner to set the date and month forwards or backwards at any time using only the crown. This removes the anxiety often associated with owning such a complicated watch, making it a practical companion for daily wear.
The dial’s layout is a masterclass in balanced design. Opposite the date window, at the 9 o’clock position, is a power reserve indicator. This arc-shaped display tracks the movement's impressive seven-day (168-hour) power reserve, letting the wearer know when it’s time to wind the watch. This long autonomy is achieved through the use of a double barrel system, ensuring consistent energy delivery and stable timekeeping over an extended period.
At the 6 o'clock position, a small seconds sub-dial is subtly integrated into the design. It features a lacquered surface with a fine circular pattern (snailed), providing a delicate textural contrast to the vertical brushing of the main dial. This sub-dial houses a simple seconds hand, completing the primary time-telling functions with understated poise.
Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.
Turning the watch over reveals the beauty of the HMC 800 calibre through the sapphire case back. The movement, which measures 34.0 mm in diameter, is hand-finished and decorated with Moser's characteristic double stripes. The architecture is clean and modern, showcasing large bridges and plates that provide a canvas for the impeccable finishing. The jewels, pallet fork, and escapement wheel made from gold stand out against the rhodium-plated surfaces, adding touches of color and technical sophistication.
Visible on the movement side is the leap year cycle indicator, designed as a star-shaped wheel. Placing this less frequently referenced information on the back is another conscious decision to maintain the purity of the dial. It is a practical solution that adheres to the brand's minimalist ethos, revealing information only when it is truly needed.
The technical prowess extends to the escapement, the regulating heart of the watch. It features an interchangeable Moser escapement module, which allows for easier servicing, and the original double hairspring. This innovation, developed in-house, involves two perfectly matched hairsprings that work in opposition to average out gravitational errors, significantly improving the watch's accuracy and isochronism.
This exceptional timepiece is secured to the wrist by a hand-stitched strap made from dark brown alligator nubuck leather. The matte, velvety texture of the nubuck complements the warmth of the dial and the refined finish of the white gold case. The strap is fitted with an 18-carat white gold pin buckle, which is engraved with the Moser logo, providing a secure and aesthetically cohesive final touch.
Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.
The water resistance of the watch is rated at 3 ATM, which is appropriate for a complicated dress watch, protecting it from incidental splashes and rain but not intended for submersion. This specification aligns with its role as a piece of fine mechanical art meant for appreciation in daily life and special occasions.
Identified by the reference number 1800-0207, the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon represents a pinnacle of the brand's contemporary collection. It is a sophisticated and thoughtfully designed timepiece that brings together the best of Moser's aesthetic and technical worlds. The watch is priced at $68,000 USD, reflecting its 18-carat white gold construction, in-house perpetual calendar movement, and the high level of craftsmanship evident in every component.
Case: 18-carat white gold; 42.0 mm diameter, 13.1 mm height; Curved sapphire crystal front and see-through case back; Water resistance 3 ATM.
Movement: Hand-wound HMC 800 Manufacture calibre; 7-day (168 hours) minimum power reserve; 18,000 Vib/h frequency; 32 jewels; Double barrel; Interchangeable Moser escapement with original double hairspring.
Dial: Smoked Salmon with vertical griffé finish and fumé effect; 5N red gold finished hands and indices; Functions include perpetual calendar with central month hand, big date, power reserve indicator, and small seconds.
Strap: Hand-stitched dark brown alligator nubuck leather; 18-carat white gold pin buckle.
Price: $68,000 USD
Reference Number: 1800-0207
Notes: The highly user-friendly perpetual calendar can be set forwards and backwards at any time via the crown. The month is indicated by a small central hand pointing to the hour indices. The leap year indicator is visible on the movement side.