• Montblanc Boheme Perpetual Calendar 36 mm High Horology meets High Jewelry
  • Montblanc Boheme Perpetual Calendar 36 mm

    High Horology meets High Jewelry

    Hourstriker Staff
    Words by: Hourstriker Staff
    August 1, 2025
  • Montblanc continues its focused push into the realm of high-complication watchmaking for women with the introduction of the Boheme Perpetual Calendar in a newly proportioned 36 mm case. These timepieces represent a significant step in offering mechanically complex and aesthetically refined watches designed specifically with a smaller wrist in mind. By integrating one of horology's most revered complications into a decidedly feminine form, Montblanc presents two distinct models that blend technical prowess with an artistic sensibility drawn from the brand's heritage in fine writing culture.

    The history of Montblanc is deeply rooted in the art of writing, a legacy that began in Hamburg, Germany, over a century ago. Famous for its masterfully crafted fountain pens, the brand became a symbol of sophisticated craftsmanship. This commitment to precision and quality eventually translated into the world of watchmaking. With the acquisition of the legendary Minerva manufacture in Villeret, Switzerland, Montblanc gained access to a trove of horological knowledge and capability dating back to 1858. This infusion of tradition and expertise allowed Montblanc to establish itself as a serious player in fine watchmaking, capable of producing everything from simple three-hand watches to grand complications, a journey that now culminates in pieces like the new Boheme Perpetual Calendar.

    Courtesy of Montblanc
    Courtesy of Montblanc


    The Boheme collection itself serves as Montblanc's canvas for its most expressive and feminine creations. It is a line that consistently eschews minimalist design in favor of romantic details, intricate patterns, and a celebration of texture and color. Inspired by a free-spirited and artistic lifestyle, the collection often incorporates guilloché work, gem-setting, and unique displays. The introduction of a perpetual calendar into this family is a deliberate statement, positioning the Boheme woman as someone who appreciates not only beauty and artistry but also the intellectual and mechanical depth of traditional horology.

    At the heart of these new models is the perpetual calendar, a complication that commands immense respect within the watch community. A perpetual calendar, or Quantième Perpétuel (QP), is a sophisticated mechanism that accurately displays the day, date, and month, while also automatically accounting for the varying lengths of the months and the occurrence of leap years. A watch equipped with this function will not require manual correction until the year 2100, a non-leap year in the Gregorian calendar. To engineer and house such a complex system within the confines of a 36 mm case is a notable technical feat, making this complication accessible without demanding a large, imposing presence on the wrist.

    The case of the Montblanc Boheme Perpetual Calendar measures a perfectly balanced 36 mm in diameter and a relatively slim 10 mm in thickness. These proportions ensure a comfortable and proportionate fit for a variety of wrist sizes. Two versions are available: one crafted entirely from polished 18k rose gold, and a two-tone variant that combines a stainless steel case body with a polished 18k rose gold bezel. Both models feature a bezel meticulously set with a continuous circle of 60 brilliant-cut diamonds, totaling approximately 0.9 carats, which frames the dial in a brilliant display of light. The case is finished with a domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating for maximum legibility, while a second sapphire crystal on the caseback provides a view of the intricate mechanics within. Water resistance is rated to 30 meters, appropriate for a watch of this character.

    Courtesy of Montblanc
    Courtesy of Montblanc


    The dial is where the watch's personality truly comes to life, serving as a multi-layered tableau of textures and information. The base is a silvery-white canvas with a delicate sunbrushed finish that emanates from the center. An outer chapter ring features a stamped pattern known as "filé d’étoiles," or a trail of stars, adding a subtle celestial motif. The very center of the dial is distinguished by a surface of micro-diamonds with a grey PVD coating, a unique treatment that provides a glittering yet understated texture, amounting to approximately 0.14 carats. This central medallion is encircled by a classic "filet sauté" pattern, a traditional decorative technique.

    Further examining the dial reveals applied floral-style Arabic numerals and dot indices, all coated in rose gold to match the hands and case accents. The calendar information is displayed across three crisp white sub-dials. The date is positioned at 3 o’clock, the day of the week at 9 o’clock, and a combined month and leap year indicator resides at 12 o’clock. A defining characteristic of these displays is the use of a graceful, cursive font for the inscriptions, a direct nod to Montblanc's heritage in handwriting and a detail that softens the technical nature of the complication.

    A beautifully executed moon phase display is situated within an aperture at the 6 o'clock position. The disc itself features a realistic serigraphy of the moon against a starry night sky, tracking its journey through the lunar cycle. This complication adds a poetic dimension to the watch, complementing the star-themed pattern on the chapter ring. Tying the entire display together are the central hour and minute hands, crafted in a classic leaf shape and plated in gold, which sweep gracefully over the complex yet harmonious dial.

    Courtesy of Montblanc
    Courtesy of Montblanc


    Powering the Boheme Perpetual Calendar is the automatic Calibre MB 29.15. This movement is constructed using a reliable Sellita SW 300-1a as its base, a choice known for its robustness and serviceability. This base is then paired with a highly specialized perpetual calendar module from the renowned complication experts at Dubois-Dépraz. This modular approach allows Montblanc to offer a high-complication watch with proven reliability. The movement operates at a modern frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and provides a power reserve of 42 hours. Its functions—hours, minutes, and the full perpetual calendar with moon phase—are adjusted via discreet correctors set into the middle of the case.

    The layout of the perpetual calendar is both traditional and intuitive. The three-register display is a classic format, with the day, date, and month clearly segregated for at-a-glance reading. The inclusion of the leap year indicator within the month sub-dial at 12 o'clock is a crucial element of the QP, ensuring the user knows exactly where they are in the four-year cycle. The symmetry of the dial, with the large sub-dial at the top balanced by the moon phase at the bottom, and flanked by the day and date, creates a visual harmony that prevents the complex display from feeling cluttered.

    Versatility is a key aspect of the new Boheme models, highlighted by the inclusion of an interchangeable strap system. Each watch is delivered with a set of three distinct straps, allowing the owner to easily adapt the watch's appearance to suit different occasions or outfits. The primary strap is a sophisticated beige calfskin leather with an alligator print. This is supplemented by a classic black calfskin strap and a striking shiny burgundy strap, also with an alligator print. The two-tone model is fitted with a stainless steel pin buckle, while the full rose gold version comes with a matching 18k rose gold pin buckle, ensuring a cohesive look.

    Courtesy of Montblanc
    Courtesy of Montblanc


    The craftsmanship extends beyond the movement and dial. The gem-setting on both the bezel and the crown is executed with precision. The crown itself is not merely functional but is a piece of jewelry, set with a patented Montblanc-cut diamond of approximately 0.11 carats. This unique star-shaped diamond cut is a signature of the brand, connecting the timepiece directly back to the iconic Montblanc emblem. Looking through the sapphire caseback, one can appreciate the finishing on the movement, a testament to the blend of industrial efficiency and traditional horological decoration.

    The full 18k rose gold model, reference MB134989, offers an undeniable warmth and presence. The monolithic use of rose gold across the case, bezel, crown, and buckle creates a rich, luxurious object. The way the warm metal interacts with the brilliant white of the diamonds and the silvery tones of the dial produces a look of classic opulence. It is a powerful statement piece that fully embraces its precious materials.

    In contrast, the two-tone model, reference MB134988, presents a different but equally compelling character. The combination of cool stainless steel for the main case body with the warmth of the 18k rose gold bezel and crown offers a dynamic visual contrast. This version feels slightly more contemporary and perhaps more versatile for everyday wear, as the steel tones down the formality just enough while the gold and diamonds maintain a high level of luxury. It’s a design that bridges the gap between a daily watch and a special occasion piece.

    The decision to house this complication in a 36 mm case is significant. For many years, highly complicated watches were almost exclusively made in larger, masculine sizes. By creating a watch with these dimensions, Montblanc actively caters to a clientele that desires serious mechanical watchmaking in a form factor that is both comfortable and aesthetically suited to a more slender wrist. The 10 mm thickness is particularly impressive, ensuring the watch sits low and does not feel bulky, a common challenge for modular automatic perpetual calendars.

    Courtesy of Montblanc
    Courtesy of Montblanc


    This watch is a clear embodiment of its "Boheme" namesake. It is not a sterile, purely technical instrument. Instead, it is infused with an artistic and romantic spirit. The handwritten fonts, the "trail of stars" pattern, and the central micro-diamond texture are all creative choices that prioritize beauty and expression. It successfully marries the left-brain logic of a mechanical calendar with the right-brain creativity of its decorative arts, resulting in a watch for someone who lives with a foot in both worlds.

    The Montblanc Boheme Perpetual Calendar 36 mm watches are now available as part of the brand's permanent collection. The two-tone stainless steel and 18k rose gold model, reference MB134988, is priced at $23,500. The full 18k rose gold model, reference MB134989, is priced at $30,000. These prices position the watches in a competitive segment of the market for precious metal, diamond-set perpetual calendars, offering a compelling blend of recognized brand heritage, sophisticated mechanics, and a distinctively artistic design.

    Rose Gold

    Case: 36mm x 10mm; 18k rose gold, polished finish; bezel set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.9 carat); crown set with a Montblanc-cut diamond (approx. 0.11 carat); domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating; sapphire crystal caseback; 30m water-resistance.

    Movement: Calibre MB 29.15; automatic; Sellita SW 300-1a base with a Dubois-Dépraz perpetual calendar module; 42-hour power reserve; 28,800 vph; functions include hours, minutes, perpetual calendar with day, date, month, leap year, and moon phase.

    Dial: Silvery white with sunbrushed finish; chapter ring with stamped "trail of stars" pattern; center features micro diamonds (approx. 0.14 carat) with a grey PVD coating; applied rose gold-coated floral Arabic numerals and indices; leaf-shaped gold-plated hands.

    Strap: Interchangeable system with three calfskin leather straps included: beige with alligator print, black, and shiny burgundy with alligator print; 18k rose gold pin buckle.

    Price: $30,000.00

    Reference Number: MB134989

    Notes: A high-complication perpetual calendar housed in a compact 36mm case. The calendar sub-dials feature a romantic, handwritten font.



    Two Tone Rose Gold and Stainless Steel

    Case: 36mm x 10mm; two-tone stainless steel and 18k rose gold, polished finish; 18k rose gold bezel set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.9 carat); domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating; sapphire crystal caseback; 30m water-resistance.

    Movement: Calibre MB 29.15; automatic; Sellita SW 300-1a base with a Dubois-Dépraz perpetual calendar module; 42-hour power reserve; 28,800 vph; functions include hours, minutes, perpetual calendar with day, date, month, leap year, and moon phase.

    Dial: Silvery white with sunbrushed finish; chapter ring with stamped "trail of stars" pattern; center features micro diamonds (approx. 0.14 carat) with a grey PVD coating; applied rose gold-coated floral Arabic numerals and indices; leaf-shaped gold-plated hands.

    Strap: Interchangeable system with three calfskin leather straps included: beige with alligator print, black, and shiny burgundy with alligator print; steel pin buckle.

    Price: $23,500.00

    Reference Number: MB134988

    Notes: The watch combines the durability of steel with the luxury of a diamond-set rose gold bezel. The dial features multiple refined finishes, including a micro-diamond surface in the center.
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