In eight years, the horological landscape has witnessed the assertive and rapid ascent of MING. The Malaysian-born, Swiss-made independent brand has cultivated a fiercely loyal following by consistently delivering watches that are architecturally complex, visually distinctive, and intellectually stimulating. To celebrate its eighth anniversary, a significant milestone marked by the delivery of over 15,000 timepieces to more than 8,000 collectors worldwide, the brand introduces a watch that is both a culmination of its past and a bold declaration of its future: the MING 57.04 Iris. This new creation is a landmark release, serving as the debut for the brand's fifth-generation design language and marking its first foray into a "destro" configuration.
The journey of MING's design philosophy is a story of deliberate and thoughtful evolution, a narrative that provides crucial context for the arrival of the 57.04. The first generation of watches was born from a period of experimentation, a phase of discovery where the foundational design codes were established. This initial exploration gave way to a second generation characterized by a maximalist approach; designs were elaborate, ornate, and often featured the brand's iconic hollow flying blade lugs, creating a sense of dramatic, almost skeletal, architecture. The pendulum then swung towards a more restrained aesthetic with the third generation, which championed monobloc simplicity and minimalism, softened by the subtle interplay of light across delicate ribbon surfacing.
Courtesy of MING
Intriguingly, the brand’s history includes a fourth generation that was designed but never produced. In a nod to Asian superstitions, this entire design family was intentionally consigned to a stillborn fate, a fascinating footnote that highlights the unique cultural perspective influencing the brand's decisions. This deliberate omission makes the arrival of the fifth generation even more impactful. It represents a clean break and a fresh start, built upon the hard-won lessons of its predecessors. This new era is defined by a modern interpretation of Art Deco principles: tightly sculptural forms, a powerful visual presence, and ornamentation that is applied with precision and restraint. It is a design language that is confident, bold, and unapologetic in its execution.
The stainless steel case of the 57.04 Iris is the first and most tangible expression of this new fifth-generation philosophy. It demonstrates a mastery of complex and unconventional case construction, pushing the brand’s engineering prowess to new heights. The most striking feature is the new stepped lugs. These are not simple extensions of the case band but intricate, nested structures composed of nine separate pieces. This complex assembly creates a unique visual effect, a series of cascading levels with crisply defined lines that separate different finishing techniques. The top surfaces of the lugs are polished to a mirror shine, while the side facets are treated with a fine satin brush, creating a dynamic interplay of light and texture that commands attention from every angle.
Responding to popular demand from its dedicated community, MING has crafted the Iris with a larger 40mm case diameter. However, size alone does not dictate wearability. The proportions have been meticulously considered to ensure comfort across a wide range of wrist sizes. A compact lug-to-lug distance of just 47.8mm means the watch sits securely and comfortably, avoiding the overhang that can plague larger timepieces. This thoughtful engineering ensures that while the watch has a strong visual presence, it remains a practical and well-suited companion for daily wear. This practicality is further reinforced by a screw-down crown system that provides a robust 100 meters of water resistance.
Courtesy of MING
For the debut of the new 57-series, MING selected the monopusher chronograph, a complication long favored by the brand’s founder, Ming Thein. Since the brand's inception in 2017, Thein held a desire to create a chronograph that was both mechanically interesting and accessibly priced. This ambition was previously hindered by limitations in movement choice and the constraints of existing case architectures. The development of the versatile 57-series case provided the solution to the latter challenge, while a strengthened partnership with the renowned Swiss movement manufacturer Sellita provided the answer to the former.
This collaboration resulted in the creation of a unique caliber, the Sellita for MING SW562.M1. This is not an off-the-shelf movement but a specific configuration developed jointly to meet MING's exacting standards. It is a manually wound movement featuring a central chronograph seconds hand and a 30-minute counter positioned at the 6 o’clock location on the dial. The most notable aspect of its design is the destro configuration, which places the crown and the single chronograph pusher on the left side of the case. This unconventional layout is a deliberate ergonomic choice, allowing for the use of a large, tactile crown and pusher that are easy to operate without the risk of them digging into the back of the wearer's wrist.
The view through the sapphire exhibition caseback reveals a movement that is as aesthetically considered as it is mechanically proficient. The architecture is dominated by a uniquely sculptural three-quarter plate, coated in a warm 4N rose gold. This large, contoured plate, with its circular brushing, contrasts beautifully against the modern anthracite coating applied to the underlying mainplate and other components. This two-tone finish creates a sense of visual depth and highlights the meticulous finishing, transforming the functional mechanics into a captivating visual display for the owner to appreciate. The movement provides a healthy power reserve of approximately 60 hours when fully wound.
Courtesy of MING
While the case and movement are technically impressive, the watch truly earns its "Iris" moniker on the dial side. The initial impression is one of almost impossible color. The dial is in a constant state of flux, shifting dynamically between deep shades of turquoise and rich, velvety purple, with all the transitional hues of blue appearing in between. It is a color that defies a single definition, changing its personality with every subtle shift of light and angle. This mesmerizing effect is achieved through the application of a sophisticated multiphasic coating over a precisely machined brass base, a testament to the brand's expertise in advanced material treatments.
The color is only one part of the dial's allure. Its physical form is equally captivating. The dial is deeply dished, curving down from its outer edge towards the center, and is decorated with a fine, fluted pattern that radiates outwards. This curvilinear, radial pattern works in concert with the iridescent coating, catching and scattering light to create an incredible sense of depth and dynamism. The effect is reminiscent of the delicate, colored structures within a human eye or the petals of an iris flower, making the watch's name feel perfectly apt.
Adding to the sense of depth is a signature MING design element: the use of sapphire for displaying the indices. Instead of being applied to the dial surface, the hour markers are laser-etched into the underside of the top sapphire crystal itself. These markings are then filled with MING Polar White luminous material, causing them to appear as if they are floating in space, suspended high above the color-shifting dial below. This technique creates a distinct parallax effect and enhances legibility, while also keeping the dial surface pure and uninterrupted.
Courtesy of MING
The handset is equally well-considered, with diamond-cut hands coated in a subtle blue that complements the dial’s palette. They are filled with Super-LumiNova X1 for clear visibility in low-light conditions. The chronograph’s 30-minute counter at 6 o’clock is not a simple sub-dial. Instead, it is a uniquely shaped disc that rotates beneath an aperture. It features a sandwich-style construction, with a lower layer overflowing with luminous material that shines through the cutout numerals of the upper disc, ensuring that the elapsed chronograph minutes are just as legible in the dark as the main time display.
The MING 57.04 Iris represents a significant moment for the brand, a synthesis of eight years of accumulated knowledge. It is a creative evolution that brings together hard-won lessons in complex case engineering, the innovative use of sapphire crystal, and the application of cutting-edge coatings and manufacturing processes. It is a watch that feels both like a natural progression and a bold leap forward, showcasing a maturity and confidence that belies the brand’s relatively young age in the grand scheme of watchmaking history.
The choice to make this anniversary piece the brand’s first-ever destro chronograph is a clear signal of MING’s continued commitment to challenging conventions and prioritizing a unique user experience. It is a decision rooted in a combination of ergonomic practicality and a desire to create something visually distinct. This willingness to experiment, even with foundational elements like crown placement, is a core part of the brand’s identity and a key reason it has resonated so strongly with a new generation of watch collectors.
Courtesy of MING
The visual presence of the 57.04 Iris is undeniable. The complexity of the nine-part lugs, with their alternating polished and brushed surfaces, creates a jewel-like quality. When viewed from the side, the stepped design gives the case a sculptural, architectural feel that is far more intricate than a standard watch case. This complexity is balanced by the clean, expansive view of the dial, where the floating indices and minimalist hands allow the extraordinary color and texture to take center stage.
The tactile experience of the watch is just as important as its visual appeal. The large, deeply grooved crown promises a satisfying winding experience, a direct connection to the manual-wind caliber within. The single, oversized pusher for the chronograph provides positive, reassuring feedback, making the starting, stopping, and resetting of the timing function an intuitive and enjoyable action. It is a watch designed to be interacted with, not just observed.
To ensure versatility, the MING 57.04 Iris is delivered with two distinct wearing options. The first is a stainless steel Universal Bracelet, whose polished and brushed links perfectly complement the finishing of the case, creating a cohesive and integrated look. The second option is a supple anthracite goat leather strap, which offers a softer, more classic aesthetic. This strap is fitted with MING’s signature stainless steel tuck buckle, which allows the tail of the strap to be neatly tucked underneath for a clean and secure fit.
The MING 57.04 Iris is a reflection of a brand that is comfortable in its own skin and confident in its direction. It is a watch that successfully merges artistic design with robust engineering, creating a final product that is both beautiful and highly functional. The combination of its modern Art Deco case, its otherworldly color-shifting dial, and its user-friendly destro monopusher complication makes it one of the most compelling releases of the year.
Courtesy of MING
As a celebratory piece, the Iris encapsulates the spirit of MING: innovative, meticulously detailed, and always pushing the boundaries of what is possible at its price point. It honors the brand’s journey by incorporating and refining signature elements while simultaneously forging a new path forward with a bold and expressive design language that promises an exciting future for the brand and its collectors.
The MING 57.04 Iris is presented as a general release, though it is limited to an edition of just 100 pieces. Orders are scheduled to open on August 26, 2025, at 1 PM GMT. The price is set at CHF 6,250, excluding any applicable taxes. The watch is sold with a two-year warranty, and the purchase price includes complimentary worldwide shipping, with an estimated delivery time of five to six weeks from the order date. Given the brand’s history of rapid sell-outs, prospective buyers will need to be prepared for a highly anticipated release.
Case: 316L stainless steel; 40mm diameter x 11.85mm thickness; 47.8mm lug-to-lug; 20mm lug width. Sapphire crystal front and rear with double-sided AR coating; top crystal with laser cut indices filled with MING Polar White. 100m water resistance.
Movement: Sellita for MING SW562.M1; manual winding monopusher chronograph with central seconds and 30-minute counter. ~60 hour power reserve. Anthracite mainplate with a contrasting 4N three-quarter plate.
Dial: Metallic deep dish dial with a multiphasic, color-shifting coating. Diamond cut, blue coated hands filled with Super-LumiNova X1. Sandwich construction chronograph minute counter disc at 6 o'clock.
Strap: Stainless steel Universal Bracelet and an anthracite goat strap fitted with a stainless steel tuck buckle.
Price: CHF 6,250 (excluding taxes).
Reference Number: 57.04
Notes: Limited to 100 pieces. This is MING's first ever "destro" model, with the crown on the left side. It debuts the brand's 5th-generation design language, which is inspired by a modern take on Art Deco.