MICROMILSPEC Hercules

MICROMILSPEC’s beginnings are not steeped in traditional Swiss watchmaking lore but in a story of fortunate timing and entrepreneurial spirit in Oslo, Norway. The brand's founder, Henrik Rye, was not part of the horological world. He was an entrepreneur who, by chance, rented an office located directly behind a small, classic watchmaking shop. This shop, run by Erik Sutterud, was a vibrant place, always filled with jazz music and conversation, which Rye later noted had a significant impact on him.



While working from that office, Rye was occupied with his own business, which involved sourcing and reselling a wide variety of surplus goods, including shoes, coffee, and even batches of closeout watches. This resale activity, while seemingly unrelated, inadvertently gave him a working network of suppliers and contacts within the Swiss watch industry. His physical proximity to Sutterud's shop meant he was a passive observer of the watchmaker's daily business, overhearing the various customer requests and discussions.



The pivotal moment came when a visitor entered the watchmaker's shop seeking to commission a small, custom run of watches for a special military unit. Rye, overhearing the request, realized his unique position. He had the Swiss supply-chain connections that the small, independent watchmaker lacked for such a project. He introduced himself and joined the conversation. The visitor, who was representing the Norwegian military, and Rye quickly found common ground.



This chance meeting led to action. In just a few months, Rye used his network to successfully design and deliver 200 watches for the Norwegian military unit. The project's success was immediate and profound. The watches were so well-regarded that Rye and his military contact co-founded MICROMILSPEC soon after. The brand's legitimacy was sealed almost overnight. Just four days after its official establishment on May 29th, 2019, the Royal Norwegian Air Force commissioned 330 custom watches, a landmark order. This was particularly noteworthy as it was the first time that branch of the armed forces had ordered a custom timepiece since a well-known 1970s collaboration with Heuer.



This rapid and successful launch defined the company's path. Word of the durable, purpose-built watches spread quickly within the exclusive international military community. MICROMILSPEC carved out a niche as the premier specialist for bespoke military-issue timepieces. Today, the company has created unique designs for over 30 different military units worldwide. This background is the essential context for understanding their public-facing timepieces; they are born from a design-first, function-first philosophy that has been field-tested by some of the most demanding users on the planet.



This brings us to the brand's "Declassified Edition" series. This annual event marks a shift from their primary focus on custom military contracts to a limited-production model available to the public. These releases are, as the name suggests, "declassified," offering watch enthusiasts a chance to acquire a timepiece built with the same mission-ready DNA as the brand's military-exclusive hardware.



The latest offering in this exclusive line is the HERCULES, a watch born from a year-long collaboration between MICROMILSPEC and the 335 Squadron, the operators of the Hercules aircraft. This "Declassified Edition" is strictly limited, with an annual production of only 25 pieces, making it an exceptionally rare piece for collectors and aviation enthusiasts alike.



The HERCULES immediately presents as a piece of modern tactical equipment. It forgoes any vintage pilot watch cues in favor of a contemporary, stealth-inspired design. The entire watch, from its angular case to the integrated bracelet, is treated with a micro-blasted PVD coating. This finish is a flat, non-reflective black that absorbs light and gives the watch an uncompromising, purposeful appearance.



The case, crafted from 316L surgical-grade stainless steel, is the brand's signature octagonal shape. It measures 42mm in diameter with a 50.3mm lug-to-lug distance, giving it a substantial and modern footprint on the wrist. Despite its robust presence, it maintains a relatively slim profile at just 12mm thick, allowing it to sit comfortably during active use.



Functionality is clearly a primary driver of the case design. It features prominent, chamfered crown guards that shield the crown from impacts while being ergonomically shaped to avoid digging into the wrist. The crown itself is a screw-in type, which is essential for achieving the watch's 100-meter (10 bar / 328 feet) water resistance rating, ensuring it is protected from the elements.



A 120-click bezel frames the dial, providing a crisp, tactile interface for timing or tracking. The bezel insert is marked with "ZULU TIME" at the 12 o'clock position, a direct reference to its aviation heritage and its utility for tracking UTC or a second time zone. The entire dial is protected by a domed sapphire crystal, which has been treated with an anti-reflective coating to ensure maximum legibility, even in the direct, harsh light often encountered in a cockpit.



An open sapphire caseback provides a view into the watch's mechanical core. This feature, often appreciated by enthusiasts, creates a compelling contrast between the watch's utilitarian, tactical exterior and the intricate, traditional Swiss-made movement beating within. It serves as a reminder that even a tool watch can celebrate the art of micromechanics.



The dial is perhaps the most striking element of the HERCULES, described by the brand as a "mechanical HUD-display on the wrist." Its design is directly inspired by the cockpit instruments and panels of the C-130J Hercules aircraft. The base is a matte grey, two-part sandwich construction. The top layer features cutouts for the hour indices, which reveals a luminous layer beneath, creating a distinct sense of depth and dimension.



The dial's layout is clean and technical. The "MICROMILSPEC" name and its crosshair logo are printed at 12 o'clock, with "HERCULES" just above the central hands. The lower half of the dial features text that looks as if it were taken directly from an aircraft's data plate, reading "C-130J / MMS / 10ATM" and "AUTOMATIC." A date window is cleanly executed at 3 o'clock, using a black date wheel with white numerals to maintain the dial's dark, cohesive aesthetic.



The watch's most defining feature is its use of illumination. The HERCULES is layered with high-performance Super-LumiNova X1. This luminous material is not just applied to the hands and dial markers; it is also infused into the bezel and the sapphire crystal itself. The brand notes that this was curated in partnership with aviation professionals to precisely match the night-flight colors of a Hercules cockpit.



In low light, the watch transforms. The entire dial assembly, bezel, and even the edge of the crystal radiate a bright green glow, uncannily resembling an illuminated instrument panel. This is not merely a design choice; it is a functional application of the watch's core theme, providing outstanding legibility in the darkest conditions.



Powering the HERCULES is the Sellita SW200-1, a reliable and respected Swiss-made automatic movement. MICROMILSPEC utilizes the Spécial (Elaboré) grade, which is a higher-grade version of the caliber that is adjusted for better timekeeping performance. This movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) for a smooth seconds-hand sweep and provides a 38-hour power reserve.



The movement, which is visible through the caseback, is fitted with a custom MICROMILSPEC rotor. It features 26 jewels to reduce friction on critical parts, ensuring long-term durability and reliability, all befitting a watch with military-spec origins. This movement is made in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, by Sellita.



The watch is available with several strap options, all designed to integrate seamlessly with the angular lugs of the case. These include a full PVD-coated stainless steel bracelet, a durable black rubber strap, and a black leather strap. The integrated design ensures a secure fit and a cohesive look that completes the watch's tool-like character.



The presentation package reinforces the watch's premium, specialized nature. It comes in a display box with a high-gloss, piano-black lacquer finish and a soft-touch interior. The box is designed with three compartments to hold the watch, a spring bar tool for strap changes, and any additional straps the owner may have.



Alongside the watch, the box includes a certificate of authenticity detailing the model name and unique serial number. This certificate is also required for any future warranty claims, even by a second owner. A MICROMILSPEC-branded fiber cloth is included for cleaning, and in a fitting nod to the brand's heritage, a complimentary custom military patch is included with every watch.



MICROMILSPEC provides a class-leading 5-year international warranty. The brand is transparent about its coverage, stating it covers all material and manufacturing defects, including both internal and external components. Their commitment is straightforward: if a fault is theirs, they will repair the defect or replace the watch. This confidence stems from their manufacturing process, which relies on leading Swiss specialists and involves manual 'eye-to-hand' finishing and rigorous quality control, a process that inherently limits their production capacity.



The MICROMILSPEC HERCULES is currently available as the 2nd "Declassified Edition," with production strictly limited to 25 pieces. The watch is listed as ready to ship within 48 hours. Pricing is set at $2,110 for the model on the PVD bracelet, $1,910 for the rubber strap version, and $1,960 for the leather strap option.



Case: 42mm diameter, 12mm thickness, 50.3mm lug-to-lug. 316L surgical grade stainless steel with micro-blasted PVD coating. Octagon shape. Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Sapphire open caseback. Screw-in crown with chamfered crown guard. Water resistant to 100m / 10bar.

Movement: Sellita SW200-1, Spécial (Elaboré) grade. Automatic, self-winding mechanical. Swiss Made. 38-hour power reserve. 28,800 vph (4 Hz). 26 jewels. MICROMILSPEC adjusted movement and custom rotor.

Dial: Matte grey, two-part sandwich dial. Super-LumiNova X1 lume infused on sapphire crystal, bezel, dial, and hands. Date window at 3 o'clock. Inspired by Hercules cockpit instruments.

Strap: Integrated 20mm straps. Available on integrated PVD stainless steel bracelet, rubber strap, or leather strap.

Price: $2,110 (Bracelet), $1,910 (Rubber), $1,960 (Leather).

Notes: Declassified Edition limited to 25 pieces annually. A collaboration with the 335 Squadron, custodians of the Hercules aircraft. Lume is designed to match the Hercules cockpit's night-flight colors. 5-year international warranty.