• MB&F HM11 Art Deco from Organic Curves to Geometric Rhythm
  • MB&F HM11 Art Deco

    From Organic Curves to Geometric Rhythm

    Hourstriker Staff
    Words by: Hourstriker Staff
    November 18, 2025
  • The world of high-concept horology has once again been shaken by the emergence of a new machine from MB&F, the audacious conceptual laboratory founded by Maximilian Büsser. For two decades, MB&F has operated under the premise of deconstructing conventional watchmaking to create three-dimensional kinetic art, a philosophy that has yielded over twenty remarkable calibers forming the foundation for their renowned Horological Machines and Legacy Machines. Büsser established MB&F in 2005 after a fifteen-year tenure managing prestigious watch brands, envisioning it as an artistic and micro-engineering laboratory dedicated to designing and crafting small series of radical concept watches. This unique approach involves bringing together talented professionals he respects, enabling the creation of fiercely unconventional wrist-worn objects that tell the time, rather than merely being tools for time-telling. The thematic range explored by these creations is vast, spanning space, science fiction, aviation, supercars, the animal kingdom, and, notably, architecture.

    The conceptual framework for the Horological Machine N°11 (HM11), initially unveiled in 2023, stemmed from a literal interpretation of architectural maxims, particularly Le Corbusier's declaration: "A house is a machine to live in." This notion was made palpable in the HM11, which transformed the idea of a mere watch case into a miniature, wearable dwelling. The inaugural design, conceived by Maximilian Büsser and Eric Giroud, took aesthetic cues from the organic, neo-futuristic architecture prevalent in the 1960s and 1970s. This "Architect" edition introduced a micro-architecture to the wrist, featuring four symmetrical, functional volumes radiating from a central area. This atrium was crowned by a flying tourbillon nestled beneath a double-domed sapphire roof, lending the timepiece the distinct appearance of a sophisticated, futuristic micro-structure.

    Courtesy of MB&F
    Courtesy of MB&F


    The four peripheral volumes, or "rooms," of the HM11 were designed with specific functions. One room was dedicated to the time display, clearly showing the hours and minutes using rod-mounted orbs—larger, lighter aluminum spheres for the quarters and smaller, darker titanium spheres for the remaining markers. The next room housed the power reserve indicator, where five orbs gradually increased in size to signal a full barrel, culminating in a 2.4-millimeter polished aluminum orb. A third chamber integrated a mechanical thermometer, utilizing a bimetallic strip to measure temperatures ranging from -20 to 60 degrees Celsius, or zero to 140 degrees Fahrenheit, based on the owner's preference. The final space was the time-setting module, a quiet, transparent void marked only by a small MB&F battle axe emblem badge; pulling this unit out allowed the hands to be set by turning it, making the crown the "key to the house."

    A truly distinctive feature of the HM11 is its winding mechanism, which completely bypasses the traditional crown. Instead, the owner engages with the machine through a tactile ritual by rotating the entire case on its base. Every 45-degree clockwise rotation results in a satisfying click and delivers exactly 72 minutes of power to the barrel. Ten complete turns are required to achieve the full four-day (96-hour) autonomy. This design choice deepens the connection between the owner and the mechanism, making the act of powering the watch an intimate, playful yet precise, twist of the object itself, rather than a tiny finger movement on a crown. The sensation of the case clicking into a new 45-degree orientation is a surprise to first-time wearers, emphasizing the piece's nature as an object to be interacted with, not merely worn.

    The 42mm case for the HM11, constructed from Grade 5 titanium, demonstrates how far the architectural metaphor was taken. The outer walls of the functional rooms are formed by this robust material. The central atrium allows light to flood the central mechanics through a roof composed of two stacked sapphire crystal domes. The time-setting crown, unusually large at nearly ten millimeters across, required a complex engineering solution for water resistance; it couldn't rely on a single large gasket due to friction. Instead, it employs a multi-gasket "airlock" system, stacking seals to ensure functionality, with a total of eight gaskets supporting the crown alone, and nineteen in total across the case and bezel. The complexity and robustness of the titanium case, with its curved walls and stacked crystal, gives it the look of both micro-architecture and a vintage spaceship.

    Powering the HM11 is an in-house manual movement, constructed three-dimensionally and built around bevel gears. The flying tourbillon, which forms the spectacular visual centrepiece, beats at a frequency of 2.5 hertz, or 18,000 vibrations per hour. The engine is isolated from external shocks by a system dampener: four custom high-tension suspension springs positioned between the movement and the lower shell. These are not standard coils but elements laser cut from a hardened steel tube with a chrome finish, a sophisticated solution derived from aerospace technology. The inaugural HM11 "Architect" editions, launched in 2023, featured plates and bridges in ozone blue or rose gold tones and were each limited to 25 pieces, instantly establishing the Horological Machine N°11 as an unmistakable new species in watchmaking.

    Courtesy of MB&F
    Courtesy of MB&F


    For 2025, MB&F introduces the next chapter in this series: the HM11 Art Deco. This new edition, guided by designer Maximilian Maertens, retains the exact foundational architecture and technical specifications of the original but adopts a completely distinct visual language. Maertens, who was captivated by the early 20th-century architectural rhythm found in places like Parisian cinemas and Manhattan skyscrapers, pivots the aesthetic from the organic, flowing lines of the 1970s inspiration to the structured, geometric vocabulary of the 1930s Art Deco movement. This results in a study in contrast: while the Architect felt experimental and softly curved, the Art Deco stands upright, graphic, and structured, translating the feeling of a rising city skyline into a wearable form.

    The Art Deco influence is immediately apparent in the dial side of the machine. The original conical rods are replaced by radiating "sunbeam" motifs, a characteristic graphic element of the period, which are partially skeletonized to maintain legibility. The displays are further defined by a two-tone logic using distinct rings and fields, along with period-inspired typography. The hands receive a special treatment, featuring a red stained-glass effect achieved through a translucent enamel, a shade that was established after dozens of trials to ensure it reads well under direct light and with light passing through from beneath. Although rubies were considered, transparent enamel was used as the necessary geometry could not be attained otherwise, resulting in a look that is both slightly milky and clearly translucent.

    The architectural transformation extends to the visible metalwork of the HM11 Art Deco. The bridges, visible from the top, are redesigned into more vertical, block-like stances that evoke ornamental stonework and the measured cadence of facades. The profile of the roof elements is re-worked with fine grooves that directly echo the stepped silhouettes of famous Art Deco skyscrapers, such as the Chrysler Building. These subtle modifications, viewed from above, make the structure resemble miniature towers, introducing a vertical rhythm that perfectly complements the sunbeam dials. The tourbillon bridge itself has been redrawn to align its axis with the larger base plate bridges, creating a clean visual line that ties the entire architectural structure together when the alignment is just right.

    Even the time-setting crown, the "key" to the house, receives Art Deco styling, gaining small steps that subtly mirror the layered effects often seen in period poster art. The sum of these modifications reinforces a palpable sense of upward momentum, giving the HM11 Art Deco the feeling of an Art Deco skyline translated onto the wrist. The overall aesthetic changes are numerous but subtle, illustrating a dedicated approach to evolving the machine's identity without losing its foundational spirit. This new chapter speaks in verticals and sunbeams, a structured and graphic contrast to the soft curves of its predecessor, creating a machine that is still built to be lived, but within a different visual era.

    Courtesy of MB&F
    Courtesy of MB&F


    Examining the construction of the HM11 Art Deco in more detail reveals the meticulous attention paid to every surface and design element. The dial frame, for instance, was transformed from an opaque ring into a skeletonized structure via precise laser cutting. This was a crucial decision made during prototyping, as a full ring obscured the orientation, making the reading of the time at the quarters non-immediate. The apertures were cut so precisely that the space left around each hand measures only about two-tenths of a millimeter, demanding absolute exactness in repositioning and indexing during assembly. This risky step was strategically moved in the production order to occur before the final finishing, which included diamond-cut accents, micro blasting, and a circular satin finish, ensuring the look remained crisp and the reading clear.

    The four hands across the watch, each slightly different to respect the intended graphics of its respective display, are a testament to the finishing detail. The pursuit of the red stained-glass effect through transparent enamel was a complex endeavor, requiring extensive trials to find a shade that achieved the desired translucent and slightly milky quality, whether under direct light or when light shone through the movement from behind. This level of dedication to a subtle visual detail underscores the depth of the Art Deco reinterpretation. The transparent crown, essential to the "house" concept, is itself made of sapphire crystal, a visually demanding and technically challenging element to produce.

    The finishing work on the metal components is a key part of the Art Deco presentation. The upper and lower cage bridges are designed with numerous inward angles, which must be finished by hand by only a few specialized craftspeople to achieve clean and consistent surfaces. The four peripheral bridges on the exterior are finished to alternate between polished and satin faces in a deliberate sequence. While this effect may nearly vanish in a simple render, in person, it is the first detail the eye tracks as the wrist moves, creating a mesmerizing play of light across the surfaces that underscores the piece's mechanical artistry. The case’s titanium shell is kept lightweight and comfortable for the wearer, a factor enhanced by the curved feet which spread the load and add stability during the winding process.

    The glass elements of the HM11 Art Deco, from the double-domed roof to the small sapphire crystals covering each chamber, also receive extensive finishing. Every groove cut into the glass requires a specific tool, and the larger grooves are finished by hand to meticulously erase any machining marks. A very dark anthracite metallisation is applied to hug the edges of the glass, a technique proven effective in the first HM11 to conceal the necessary gaskets and other structural parts that secure the crystals. The underside of the case is micro blasted for a calm, even tone, contrasting with the upper areas where polish and satin finishes alternate in a pattern dictated by the new Art Deco graphics, with the stepped outer ring being the most visible change that pulls the theme together.

    Despite the complexity of its three-dimensional structure, the HM11 Art Deco case sits at a compact 42mm diameter with a height of 23mm. It maintains a water resistance rating of 20 meters / 68 feet / 2 ATM. The movement specifications remain consistent with the original HM11: a three-dimensional horological engine featuring a flying tourbillon and bevel gears, manually wound by turning the entire case clockwise. The power reserve is a substantial 96 hours, with the balance operating at 2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour). The technical architecture is robust, utilizing antireflective coatings on both faces of the sapphire crystals across the top, back, and individual chambers.

    Courtesy of MB&F
    Courtesy of MB&F


    A key point of differentiation in the HM11 Art Deco editions lies in the color and material finishes. The Art Deco variants feature distinct PVD treatments on the plates and bridges. The first edition showcases a blue dial plate combined with 3N yellow-gold-toned bridges. This model is paired with a white lizard strap and a titanium folding buckle, providing a bright, contrasting aesthetic that emphasizes the graphic nature of the design. The blue PVD plate treatment provides a rich backdrop for the yellow-gold accents.

    The second edition of the HM11 Art Deco employs a green dial plate accented by 5N rose-gold-toned bridges. This version is presented on a beige lizard strap with a titanium folding buckle, offering a warmer, more subdued yet equally striking presentation. In both editions, the laser-cut circular grained markers are PVD-treated to match the gold tones of the bridges—3N PVD for the blue model and 5N PVD for the green model—creating cohesion across the entire micro-architectural piece. The movement components, 330 in the Art Deco version, are a slightly lower count than the 364 in the Architect, a distinction likely attributable to the graphic and display changes.

    The history of MB&F provides context for the boldness of the HM11 Art Deco. Since its founding, the laboratory has been dedicated to creating objects that defy traditional categorization. In 2007, the first Horological Machine, HM1, with its sculptured, three-dimensional case, set the standard. This was followed in 2011 by the Legacy Machine collection, which, while more traditionally round-cased, still represented a reinterpretation of 19th-century watchmaking complications to create contemporary objets d'art. The constant alternation between unconventional Horological Machines and historically inspired Legacy Machines, along with collaborations known as Performance Art and Co-creations (often non-wristwatches like clocks with L’Epée 1839), defines MB&F's status as a conceptual powerhouse rather than a conventional watch producer.

    The HM11 Art Deco, in its graphic structure and verticality, embodies the core ethos of MB&F: to not just create a watch, but to create a story, a specific time, or a world to be inhabited by the wearer. It stands as a testament to the brand’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of what a timepiece can look like and how it can be experienced. The transformation from the organic curves of the Architect to the structured geometry of the Art Deco demonstrates the versatility of the underlying machine, proving it is a foundation capable of supporting multiple artistic languages. The intricate interplay of finishes, the technical complexity of the movement and case, and the interactive winding ritual all contribute to a machine that is meant to be lived with.

    Courtesy of MB&F
    Courtesy of MB&F


    The HM11 Art Deco is a highly exclusive offering, marking a significant moment for the brand. The release is limited to 20 total pieces for MB&F’s 20th Anniversary, split into two editions of 10 pieces each. This extreme scarcity underlines its positioning as a collector’s piece. Given the limited nature and the technical and artistic complexity, these pieces are reserved for the most dedicated collectors of the brand’s mechanical art. The retail price for either edition of this miniature wearable skyscraper is set at CHF 198,000, excluding any applicable value-added taxes. The Art Deco version, in its vibrant reinterpretation and commemorative exclusivity, is a standout addition to the MB&F universe, offering an intimate, architectural dialogue with the machine on one's wrist.

    The dedication to creating a truly unique and aesthetically demanding piece is clear in the numerous hand-finished elements and the complexity of the custom components, from the laser-cut suspension springs to the custom-colored translucent enamel hands. The HM11 Art Deco is a creation where the minutiae of the finishing, such as the alternating polished and satin faces of the peripheral bridges, are as important as the grand architecture of the case itself. The watch isn't simply a device to measure time; it's a meticulously crafted city in miniature, a piece of wearable kinetic sculpture that captures the dynamic, structured spirit of the Art Deco era with contemporary micro-engineering.

    Case: Grade 5 titanium, 42mm diameter x 23mm height, 92 components, 20m water resistance, sapphire crystals on top, back, and all four chambers with anti-reflective coating, sapphire crystal time-setting crown, entire case rotates for winding.

    Movement: Three-dimensional horological engine developed in-house, manual winding by rotating the entire case clockwise, 4 days (96 hours) power reserve, 18,000bph (2.5Hz) balance frequency, 330 components, 29 jewels, features flying tourbillon and bevel gears, PVD-treated plates and 3N or 5N PVD bridges.

    Dial: Hours and minutes, power reserve, and temperature (-20 to 60° Celsius or 0 to 140° Fahrenheit) indications, features radiating sunbeam motifs (laser-cut circular grained markers in 3N or 5N PVD), hands are white gold skeleton with transparent red enamel insert.

    Strap: Lizard strap with titanium folding buckle; white lizard for the blue dial plate model, beige lizard for the green dial plate model.

    Price: CHF 198,000 + VAT

    Notes: Limited to 20 pieces total (10 of blue/3N yellow gold and 10 of green/5N rose gold) for MB&F's 20th Anniversary. Design inspired by 1930s Art Deco architecture, transforming the original HM11 Architect's organic forms into structured, graphic verticals.
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