Louis Erard has introduced a significant new piece to its Métiers d’Art collection, the Gravée Main. This timepiece focuses entirely on the ancient craft of hand-engraving, presenting a limited series of 99 watches where nearly every metallic surface becomes a canvas for detailed artistic expression. It represents a continuation of the brand’s mission to make high-end traditional crafts accessible, merging a minimalist watch architecture with elaborate, baroque-inspired ornamentation.
Founded in the Swiss Jura region in 1929, Louis Erard has carved a distinct niche for itself in the modern watch industry. While deeply rooted in the traditions of Swiss mechanical watchmaking, the brand consciously avoids simply replicating the past. Under the leadership of Manuel Emch, Louis Erard has pivoted towards a philosophy of creative exploration and collaboration. This approach seeks to break down the barriers that often separate haute horlogerie from a broader audience, reinterpreting foundational watchmaking principles and infusing centuries-old crafts with a modern sensibility.
Courtesy of Louis Erard
The brand's identity is defined by this spirit of independence and innovation. Rather than conforming to industry trends, Louis Erard forges its own path, prioritizing collaboration with avant-garde creators like Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter. These partnerships are not mere marketing exercises; they result in timepieces that challenge conventional design codes and redefine the visual language of watchmaking. The Métiers d’Art series is a direct extension of this ethos, aiming to bring crafts like Grand Feu enamel, guilloché, and now hand-engraving into a more approachable price segment without compromising the integrity of the art form.
The Gravée Main, or "Hand Engraved," is the latest chapter in this narrative. The central idea is to take a clean, modern watch design and completely transform it through the intensive labor of a single artisan. The project is a study in contrasts: the industrial nature of stainless steel against the organic, flowing lines of floral engraving; the pure, unadorned design of the Noirmont case against the lavish ornamentation that covers it. Each of the 99 pieces is inherently unique, as the subtle variations of the human hand ensure no two watches will ever be identical.
Manuel Emch describes the vision behind the piece, noting his fascination with how a minimalist object can be entirely re-contextualized by an artist. The baroque floral motifs that overtake the watch are not just decoration; they give the cold steel a sense of life and vitality. This clash between lavish detail and clean design forms the core identity of the Gravée Main. The watch is meant to communicate more than just the time; it speaks to the importance of preserving and transmitting rare crafts, making them wearable and part of a living tradition.
The art of engraving predates horology itself, originating with goldsmiths and jewelers. By the 18th century, it was a common and highly respected method for decorating everything from pocket watch cases to large clocks. During this same period, baroque floral patterns, with their swirling, organic, and intricate forms, became a dominant aesthetic. The Gravée Main brings these two traditions together, applying a historical decorative style to a contemporary timepiece. This fusion honors the past while firmly planting the craft in the present.
Courtesy of Louis Erard
The canvas for this work is the 42mm Louis Erard Noirmont case, crafted from stainless steel. The choice of material is significant. Steel is substantially harder and more resistant to scratching and deformation than softer metals like gold or silver, making it considerably more challenging to engrave by hand. It demands more force, more control, and more time from the engraver, making the final result a testament to both skill and physical effort. The complete engraving of the case, bezel, lugs, crown, and even the buckle requires over 50 hours of meticulous work.
This demanding process begins not with a tool, but with a concept. The artist first sketches the intricate floral pattern, refining the design before transferring it to the metal surface, often freehand. With the design mapped out, the physical work commences. A variety of specialized tools, including burins and drypoints, are selected to achieve different line weights and depths. The surface is first lightly etched with a drypoint to create a guide, after which the deeper carving begins, millimeter by millimeter. The artist must constantly adapt their movements to the specific contours of the watch component being worked on.
Once the primary engraving is complete, the process of refinement begins. Additional details, textures, and shading are added by hand and eye to create a sense of depth and contrast. The engraved components are then thoroughly cleaned and polished to make the intricate patterns stand out against the metallic sheen. A final, rigorous quality control check ensures the visual balance of the design is perfect and that the structural integrity of the case has not been compromised. This multi-step, labor-intensive process results in an object that is impossible to replicate with a machine.
Each of the 99 pieces is engraved in Ukraine by Maksym Shavlak, a watchmaker and artist renowned for his skill in hand-engraving and for his work in transforming antique timepieces into modern hybrids. His involvement elevates the Gravée Main from a product to a personal artistic statement. Shavlak views case engraving as more than mere decoration; for him, it is a method of making the metal itself communicate. His work is characterized by a patient, emotionally resonant precision that pays deep respect to traditional craftsmanship.
Courtesy of Louis Erard
The collaboration began over a year ago, evolving from design discussions into a full creative partnership. Shavlak explains that Louis Erard was not interested in simply adding engraving as a surface treatment. Instead, they sought to build the entire watch concept around the craft, giving it the space and prominence it deserved. In the context of the ongoing challenges in his home country, Shavlak’s work takes on an added layer of meaning, becoming a quiet but powerful expression of cultural resilience, identity, and artistic rebirth through craftsmanship.
Visually, the watch is a compelling object. The 42mm case is completely enveloped in a dynamic, swirling pattern of baroque-inspired floral motifs. The engraving flows seamlessly across every surface, from the thin bezel, down the polished sides of the case, and over the contours of the lugs. Even the fluted crown has been painstakingly engraved, ensuring a cohesive and immersive artistic theme. The polished finish of the steel interacts with the engraved lines, creating a constant play of light and shadow that gives the watch a remarkable sense of depth and texture.
In stark contrast to the ornate case, the dial is intentionally understated, providing a moment of visual calm and clarity. It features a deep black polished lacquer finish, creating a glossy, ink-like surface. This minimalist backdrop allows the other elements to stand out. The use of Roman numerals, rendered in a shiny anthracite transfer, connects the dial to the classical inspiration behind the engraving. The black-on-black effect of the transfers adds a subtle, modern touch, revealing themselves as the light catches the dial.
The hands are a classic "pear" shape, finished in rhodium for a bright, metallic luster that ensures legibility against the dark dial. This choice of handset is a direct nod to the style of baroque-era clocks, reinforcing the historical theme while maintaining a clean, contemporary feel. The combination of the highly decorative case and the minimalist, legible dial is a deliberate design choice that creates a balanced and sophisticated aesthetic.
Driving the Gravée Main is the automatic Sellita SW261-1 calibre. This Swiss-made movement is a reliable and well-regarded workhorse known for its durability. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and contains 31 jewels, providing a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. The movement is an élaboré grade version, which signifies a higher level of adjustment and finishing compared to a standard grade, ensuring better timekeeping performance.
Courtesy of Louis Erard
The functions are straightforward: hours, minutes, and a small seconds display located at the 6 o'clock position, which adds a touch of classical symmetry to the dial layout. The movement is visible through a transparent black caseback, allowing a view of its inner workings. A notable detail is the specially openworked oscillating weight, which features a black lacquered Louis Erard symbol, adding a customized touch to the otherwise industrial appearance of the calibre.
The watch is secured to the wrist by a black grained calf leather strap. The strap features tone-on-tone stitching for a clean look, and the lining is also made of black grained calf leather for comfort. In keeping with the exhaustive attention to detail, the polished stainless steel pin buckle is also fully hand-engraved, carrying the baroque motif through to the final component. The strap is fitted with ergot bars, a practical feature that allows for quick and easy strap changes without the need for tools.
The case specifications contribute to a modern and wearable presence on the wrist. The 42mm diameter is paired with a lug-to-lug distance of 49.90mm and a total thickness of 12.25mm. A domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides protects the dial, ensuring maximum clarity and scratch resistance. The watch also offers a water resistance of 5 bars, equivalent to 50 meters, making it suitable for daily wear and resistant to splashes.
The Gravée Main fits perfectly within the broader context of Louis Erard's Métiers d’Art collection. It follows successful launches that highlighted other traditional crafts such as Grand Feu enamel, intricate wood marquetry, and classic guilloché. Alongside the simultaneously released Fil d’Or (gold wire inlay) model, the Gravée Main demonstrates the brand's continued commitment to exploring and democratizing these highly specialized artistic skills. In a market where such crafts are often reserved for prohibitively expensive, museum-grade timepieces, Louis Erard is building a bridge between high craft and everyday wearability.
Courtesy of Louis Erard
The Louis Erard Gravée Main, reference 34237GA82.BVAG170, is a limited edition of just 99 unique pieces. The limited production run is a natural consequence of the more than 50 hours of manual labor required to engrave each individual watch. This exclusivity ensures that each owner possesses a piece that is truly one-of-a-kind.
The pricing for this unique offering is set at CHF 5,450, excluding taxes. This price point represents a remarkable value proposition within the industry, offering collectors and enthusiasts an opportunity to acquire a timepiece featuring an extensive amount of hand-craftsmanship from a skilled artist. It aligns perfectly with Louis Erard’s mission to make the world of artistic watchmaking more accessible, providing a wearable piece of art that celebrates both tradition and modern design.
Case: Polished stainless steel, Ø42 mm diameter, 12.25 mm thickness, 49.90 mm lug to lug, 22 mm lug width. Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides. Transparent caseback. Water resistance 5 bars (50 m/165 ft). Entire case, crown, and lugs are hand-engraved.
Movement: Automatic Sellita SW261-1 calibre, élaboré grade. Approx. 38-hour power reserve, 31 jewels, 28,800 VpH (4Hz). Features a special openworked oscillating weight with black lacquered Louis Erard symbol. Functions include central hours, central minutes, and small seconds at 6 o’clock.
Dial: Black polished lacquer finish with shiny anthracite and black transferred Roman numerals and markings. Rhodium-plated pear-shaped hands.
Strap: Black grained calf leather with tone-on-tone stitching and black grained calf leather lining. Hand-engraved polished stainless steel pin buckle. Fitted with ergot bars for quick strap changes.
Price: CHF 5,450 (excluding tax).
Reference Number: 34237GA82.BVAG170
Notes: Limited edition of 99 unique pieces. Each watch requires over 50 hours of hand-engraving work performed by Ukrainian artist Maksym Shavlak. No two pieces are exactly alike due to the manual craftsmanship.