• Longines Legend Diver White Dial Echoes of a Diving Pioneer
  • Longines Legend Diver White Dial

    Echoes of a Diving Pioneer

    Hourstriker Staff
    Words by: Hourstriker Staff
    June 5, 2025
  • Longines has introduced a new iteration to its esteemed Legend Diver collection, presenting a model with a distinct white matt dial. This addition, designated L3.764.4.16.6, continues the lineage of a watch series that first appeared in 1959, maintaining the core characteristics that have defined this line of dive watches while incorporating contemporary technical standards. The introduction of this white dial version seeks to offer a different visual appeal within a collection known for its robust performance and historical roots.

    The history of the Longines company stretches back to 1832, with its establishment in Saint-Imier, Switzerland. Throughout its many decades of operation, Longines has developed a reputation for its watchmaking capabilities, contributing to various advancements in horology. The brand has a notable record as a timekeeper for international sporting events and has built a portfolio that reflects a commitment to performance and precision. This long-standing presence in the watchmaking world provides a deep well of experience from which current collections, including the Legend Diver, draw their inspiration and manufacturing principles.

    Courtesy of Longines
    Courtesy of Longines


    The original Longines Legend Diver emerged in an era when underwater exploration was gaining significant traction, moving from a purely military or scientific endeavor to a pursuit enjoyed by a wider public. This period saw an increased demand for reliable and accurate diving instruments. Longines responded to this need in 1959 by developing a watch specifically for underwater use. A key innovation of this early model was its internal rotating bezel, a feature Longines had first conceived in 1936. This design placed the bezel beneath the crystal, protecting it from accidental adjustments and impacts, a practical solution for the demanding environment of diving. The use of a Super-Compressor case, which increased water resistance with rising external pressure, was another important technical aspect of the early Legend Divers.

    Over the subsequent decades, the Legend Diver saw various refinements, particularly in enhancing its water resistance and adapting to evolving technical standards. In more recent times, Longines revisited this iconic design, incorporating it into its Heritage segment. This allowed the company to combine the distinctive look of the mid-20th century model with modern watchmaking technology. The current Legend Diver collection, including the new white dial variant, aims to uphold this blend of historical design cues and contemporary performance.

    The visual presentation of the new L3.764.4.16.6 model centers on its white matt dial. This finish provides a bright, clean background that contrasts sharply with the black hands and markings, a combination intended to enhance readability under various lighting conditions. The hour markers consist of painted Arabic numerals at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions, interspersed with elongated indexes for the remaining hours. Both the markers and the hands, which include satinated black and light green arrow hands, are treated with Swiss Super-LumiNova®, a luminescent material designed to ensure visibility in low-light environments, a critical feature for any dive watch. The dial's surface is uncluttered, focusing on clear indication of time.

    The case of this Legend Diver model is crafted from stainless steel and measures 39.00 mm in diameter. It features a classic round shape with alternating polished and satin finishes, contributing to its utilitarian yet refined appearance. The case back is a screw-down type, contributing to the watch's water resistance. Notable case specificities include the internal turning diving flange, operated by one of the watch's two crowns, and the screw-in nature of both crowns. The lug distance is 20 mm, the lug-to-lug measurement is 47.00 mm, and the case thickness is 12.70 mm. The overall weight of the watch, including the bracelet, is 146.0 grams. These dimensions suggest a watch that balances presence with wearability.

    Courtesy of Longines
    Courtesy of Longines


    A defining characteristic of the Legend Diver design is its dual-crown system. The crown located at the 4 o'clock position is used for traditional time-setting and winding functions. The second crown, positioned at 2 o’clock, is dedicated to operating the internal bidirectional rotating bezel. Both crowns are of the screw-in type, which helps to prevent accidental operation and maintain water integrity. The visual symmetry, or rather asymmetry, created by these two prominent crowns gives the Legend Diver a distinctive profile on the wrist and is a direct nod to its historical predecessors.

    The internal rotating bezel itself is a significant feature, representing an innovative approach to dive timer functionality that Longines pioneered. By placing the bezel inside the case, under the crystal, it is shielded from external forces that could otherwise displace it and lead to inaccurate dive time readings. The bezel features a 60-minute scale, graduated on the flange, with a luminescent triangle marker at the zero position. This allows divers to accurately track immersion times. The operation via the dedicated crown ensures precise adjustments can be made when needed.

    Protecting the dial is a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. This crystal is not flat but domed, a shape that can reduce distortion and enhance the vintage-inspired aesthetic. It also features a black-metallic coating and has several layers of anti-reflective coating applied to both its upper and underside surfaces. This comprehensive anti-reflective treatment is crucial for minimizing glare and maximizing legibility, especially in bright conditions or underwater.

    The clarity of the dial is paramount for a watch designed with diving in mind. The matt white surface of the new model serves as a high-contrast backdrop for the black hands and markers. The extended indexes and the prominent, raised Arabic numerals are designed for quick and easy reading. The hands are distinct in shape, with the hour hand featuring a broad arrow tip and the minute hand being a more slender baton style, both filled with Swiss Super-LumiNova®. The light green accents on the hands further contribute to their visibility against the white dial.

    Courtesy of Longines
    Courtesy of Longines


    Powering the Longines Legend Diver L3.764.4.16.6 is the Calibre L888, specifically the L888.6 variant. This is a self-winding mechanical movement that operates at a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour. A key component of this movement is its monocrystalline silicon balance-spring. Silicon is a material known for its lightness, corrosion resistance, and insensitivity to normal temperature variations and magnetic fields. These properties contribute to the movement's precision and longevity. The Calibre L888.6 provides a power reserve of up to 72 hours, allowing the watch to run for three full days without needing to be wound.

    The emphasis on precision is further underscored by the watch's official certifications. The entire Legend Diver watch is chronometer-certified by the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres), an independent body that tests watch movements for their accuracy and consistency over several days, in different positions, and at various temperatures. Additionally, the watch boasts significant magnetic resistance, stated to be ten times greater than the ISO 764 reference standard, largely due to the silicon balance-spring and other innovative components within the movement.

    As a designated diver's watch, the Legend Diver L3.764.4.16.6 meets the stringent requirements of the ISO 6425 standard. This certification involves a series of tests that confirm its suitability for underwater diving. The watch is water-resistant to 30 bar, which is equivalent to approximately 300 meters or 1000 feet. The ISO 6425 standard also mandates criteria such as resistance to shocks, magnetic fields, condensation, corrosion, and thermal variations. Furthermore, it requires a secure dive time indicator (fulfilled by the internal rotating bezel) and optimal readability in dark conditions through the use of luminous elements on the dial and hands.

    The new white dial model is presented on a stainless steel bracelet. This bracelet features a "beads-of-rice" style for its central links, a design that consists of small, rounded links arranged in rows, known for providing a comfortable and flexible fit on the wrist. This type of bracelet also adds a touch of vintage character to the watch, harmonizing with its historical design roots.

    Courtesy of Longines
    Courtesy of Longines


    Securing the bracelet is a double security folding clasp. This type of clasp is designed to prevent accidental opening, an important consideration for a watch intended for active use. The clasp also incorporates a micro-adjustment system, allowing the wearer to make fine adjustments to the bracelet's length for an optimal fit without the need for tools. This enhances comfort and practicality, especially when adapting to slight changes in wrist size due to temperature or activity.

    While the white dial version is a highlight, Longines has also expanded the Legend Diver collection for 2025 with other options. Models featuring lacquered blue or lacquered black dials are now available with matching blue or black rubber straps. These rubber straps are equipped with a diver pin-buckle, ensuring a secure fit suitable for diving and other water activities. These additions offer a more contemporary, sporty aesthetic and provide alternatives to the stainless steel bracelet or the previously available leather and nylon NATO straps.

    Longines' engagement with water-resistant timepieces dates back much further than the original Legend Diver. The company began producing its first watches designed for water resistance in the 1910s. By 1937, Longines had launched what is believed to be the first chronograph equipped with water-resistant pushers, a design for which it secured a patent the following year. During the 1940s, Longines collaborated with the UK Hydrographic Institute to develop dive watches for Royal Navy divers. This early work laid the groundwork for later civilian dive watches, such as the 1958 Longines Nautilus Skin Diver, which offered water resistance up to 12 bar (120 meters) and featured a steel bracelet with a fine-adjustment system for wear over a diving suit.

    The design ethos of the Legend Diver reflects Longines' broader approach to watchmaking, which often involves drawing from its extensive archives while incorporating modern technical capabilities. The persistence of the internal rotating bezel and dual-crown configuration, coupled with modern materials like sapphire crystal and silicon balance-springs, illustrates this combination of heritage and innovation.

    Courtesy of Longines
    Courtesy of Longines


    The 39mm case diameter of the Legend Diver, combined with its 47.00mm lug-to-lug dimension and 12.70mm thickness, suggests a versatile size that can suit a range of wrist circumferences. Its design, while rooted in the functional requirements of a dive watch, possesses a character that allows it to be worn in a variety of settings, from casual to more formal, and of course, during underwater activities. The clear legibility, robust construction, and secure bracelet further contribute to its practicality as an everyday timepiece. The brand itself posits that a particular disposition is, indeed, an attitude, and this timepiece embodies that through its careful construction and purposeful design.

    The Longines Legend Diver with the new white matt dial, model reference L3.764.4.16.6, is priced at $3,550.00. This new model, along with the rubber strap options for the blue and black dial versions, represents the latest expansion of a collection that has maintained its appeal for over six decades, adapting to new technologies while respecting its distinctive historical identity. These watches are available through Longines' authorized retailers and boutiques.

    Case: Round, Stainless steel, Ø 39.00 mm, Thickness 12.70 mm, Lug distance 20 mm, Lug-to-lug 47.00 mm. Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with multi-layer anti-reflective coating. Screw-down case back, screw-in crowns. Internal turning diving flange. Water-resistant to 30 bar (300 meters). Weight 146.0 g.

    Movement: Automatic, Caliber L888.6. Self-winding mechanical movement, 25,200 vibrations per hour, approx. 72-hour power reserve. Monocrystalline silicon balance-spring. Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds. COSC certified chronometer. Magnetic resistant (exceeds ISO 764).

    Dial: White matt. Painted Arabic numerals and indexes. Black hands (satinated black and light green arrow hands). Swiss Super-LumiNova® applied.

    Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with beads-of-rice links at the centre. Double security folding clasp with micro-adjustment system.

    Price: $3,550.00

    Reference Number: L3.764.4.16.6

    Notes: Features two crowns, one for time setting and one for the internal bidirectional rotating bezel. Certified as a diving watch (ISO 6425). Uses a silicon balance-spring for improved performance and magnetic resistance.
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