IWC Schaffhausen has introduced a significant new reference within its esteemed Portugieser line, the Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph IW394009. This model is a formidable display of the brand's technical prowess, combining three major horological complications into a single, cohesive design. Encased in a proprietary precious metal and featuring a deeply complex dial, this watch represents a modern pinnacle for a collection with roots stretching back to the 1930s, offering a mechanical spectacle for discerning enthusiasts. It is not merely an assembly of features, but a carefully considered instrument that balances high complexity with functional readability.
The history of International Watch Company begins with an American watchmaker and engineer, Florentine Ariosto Jones, who traveled to Schaffhausen, Switzerland, in 1868. His vision was to merge American industrial manufacturing techniques with the renowned craftsmanship of Swiss watchmakers. This unique engineering-first approach has defined IWC for over 150 years, earning it a reputation for creating robust, reliable, and functional instrument watches. The brand is known for its mastery of complications, particularly chronographs and calendars, designed to be both ingenious and user-friendly.
Courtesy of IWC
Within IWC's stable of iconic collections, the Portugieser holds a special place. Its origin story dates to the late 1930s when two Portuguese businessmen requested a wristwatch with the precision of a marine chronometer. To meet this demand, IWC housed a large, accurate pocket watch movement in a wristwatch case, resulting in an oversized timepiece for its era. This foundation established the collection's signature aesthetic: a large case, a clean and open dial, Arabic numerals, and a simple "railway-track" chapter ring. These design cues, born from a need for supreme legibility at sea, have defined the family for over eighty years and provide the framework for this new, highly complicated iteration.
The physical presence of the IW394009 is substantial and assertive, housed in a 43.5 mm case. The chosen material is 18-carat Armor Gold®, a specific alloy developed by IWC. This is not standard gold; it possesses a modified microstructure that gives it significantly greater hardness and wear resistance compared to conventional gold alloys. This choice underscores IWC's focus on material science and longevity. The case architecture, with its polished bezel and satin-finished sides, frames the intricate dial, while the classic plunger-style chronograph pushers and substantial crown maintain the functional, instrument-like character of the Portugieser line.
Measuring 15.9 mm in height, the case profile is admittedly thick, a necessity to accommodate the complex mechanics within. Yet, the thoughtfully sculpted lugs are designed to curve downwards, allowing the watch to sit more securely and comfortably on the wrist than its dimensions might suggest. Securing the watch is a black alligator leather strap crafted by the renowned Italian leather artisan, Santoni. The strap’s quality is a tactile detail that complements the watch's visual and mechanical richness. It fastens with an 18-carat Armor Gold® folding clasp, ensuring material continuity and a secure fit.
Courtesy of IWC
At the center of the watch’s identity is its Obsidian-colored dial. This is far from a simple coat of black paint. Its creation is a painstaking process involving approximately 60 distinct steps. The most notable of these is the application of 15 layers of transparent lacquer, which are meticulously built up and polished. This method imparts an extraordinary sense of optical depth, causing the dial to appear almost three-dimensional and liquid-like under direct light. The deep, dark surface provides a dramatic backdrop for the other elements.
The dial is adorned with gold-plated hands and solid gold applied Arabic numerals, classic hallmarks of the Portugieser family. The warm tone of the gold against the obsidian black ensures excellent contrast and legibility. The layout is balanced despite the density of information presented. The primary time is told by the central leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, while the three advanced complications are arrayed logically across the dial's landscape, each occupying its own visual space without causing clutter.
One of the headline features is the flying minute tourbillon, prominently displayed in a large aperture at the 6 o’clock position. The tourbillon, an invention designed to counteract the effects of gravity on the escapement in different positions, is a visual delight. Here, it is a "flying" tourbillon, meaning it is supported only from below, offering an unimpeded view of the rotating cage. This intricate cage, which completes one full rotation every 60 seconds, is composed of 56 individual parts and weighs a mere 0.675 grams.
Courtesy of IWC
IWC has equipped this tourbillon with a hacking mechanism, also known as a tourbillon stop. This is a highly practical feature that allows the entire mechanism, including the balance wheel within the cage, to be brought to a complete halt when the crown is pulled out. This enables the wearer to set the time with down-to-the-second accuracy, a functional benefit not always present in tourbillon-equipped timepieces.
Further enhancing the movement's performance are modern materials. The pallet lever and the escape wheel, two critical components of the escapement, are fabricated from silicone. This material is lightweight, anti-magnetic, and requires no lubrication. IWC goes a step further by coating these parts with its proprietary Diamond Shell® technology. This special coating drastically reduces friction and improves the overall efficiency of energy flow through the movement, which is a contributing factor to the watch's substantial power reserve.
Positioned at 9 o’clock is the retrograde date display. Instead of a hand completing a full circle or a number appearing in a window, a retrograde indicator travels along an arc-shaped scale. On the IW394009, a small hand points to the date on a scale running from the 1st to the 31st. At the end of the last day of the month, the hand instantaneously jumps back to the 1st, beginning its journey anew. This complication provides a dynamic and engaging way to track the date, with the monthly flyback offering a moment of mechanical theater.
The third major complication is the flyback chronograph, with its controls located on the right side of thecase. The chronograph function is displayed in a single, intuitive totalizer at the 12 o’clock position. This sub-dial combines the recorded hours and minutes, allowing them to be read off like a second time zone. This is a more user-friendly arrangement than separate sub-dials for hours and minutes, which can sometimes be difficult to interpret at a glance.
Courtesy of IWC
The "flyback" function adds another layer of utility. While a standard chronograph must be stopped, reset, and then restarted to time consecutive events, a flyback chronograph simplifies this process into a single push of the reset button. When this button is pressed while the chronograph is running, the hands immediately snap back to zero and begin timing again, making it ideal for measuring sequential intervals without interruption.
Powering this complex machine is the IWC-manufactured 89900 calibre. This is a highly sophisticated, self-winding movement comprising 375 individual parts and operating on 42 jewels. It beats at a modern frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), which contributes to its precision. Despite the significant energy requirements of the tourbillon and chronograph, the movement provides a healthy power reserve of 68 hours when fully wound.
The view through the see-through sapphire crystal case back is as impressive as the dial. The movement is extensively decorated with traditional finishing techniques, including Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes) and perlage (circular graining) on the bridges and plates. A standout feature is the oscillating mass, the rotor responsible for automatically winding the mainspring. It is crafted from solid 18-carat 5N gold and is partially skeletonized, allowing for a broader view of the intricate calibre architecture beneath it as it spins.
This model is a clear statement piece within the newly updated Portugieser collection. In 2024, IWC introduced a new palette of signature colors meant to evoke the cycle of day and night, including Horizon Blue, Dune, and Silver Moon. The Obsidian of this reference fits perfectly within that narrative, representing the deepest point of night and providing a stark, beautiful canvas for the gold and mechanical elements to shine.
Courtesy of IWC
The watch is a testament to IWC's engineering-centric approach to high watchmaking. The integration of a tourbillon, a retrograde date, and a flyback chronograph into one automatic movement is a significant technical achievement. The use of advanced materials like Armor Gold® and diamond-coated silicone components demonstrates a commitment to pushing the boundaries of durability and performance, even in the context of a precious metal grand complication.
For those interested in acquiring this horological powerhouse, availability is limited. The IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph Ref. IW394009 is produced as a limited edition of only 100 pieces worldwide. This exclusivity, combined with its complex mechanics and advanced materials, places it in the upper echelon of the brand's offerings. The official retail price is set at $145,000 USD, reflecting its status as a masterwork of fine watchmaking from the Schaffhausen manufacture.
Case: 18 ct Armor Gold®; Diameter 43.5 mm; Height 15.9 mm; See-through sapphire glass back with antireflective coating; Water resistance 3.0 bar.
Movement: IWC-manufactured Calibre 89900; Automatic winding; 68-hour power reserve; 375 components; 42 jewels; Frequency 28'800 VPH (4 Hz); Solid 18-carat 5N gold rotor.
Dial: Obsidian-coloured, created with 60 steps including 15 layers of transparent lacquer; Gold-plated hands and solid gold appliques.
Strap: Black alligator leather strap by Santoni; Strap width 22.0 mm; 18-carat Armor Gold® folding clasp.
Price: $145,000 USD
Reference Number: IW394009
Notes: Limited edition of 100 pieces. Features a combination of three complications: a hacking flying minute tourbillon, a retrograde date display, and a flyback chronograph. The tourbillon's pallet lever and escape wheel are made of silicone with a Diamond Shell® coating.