IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse

IWC Schaffhausen has firmly established a rhythm of releasing dedicated timepieces to commemorate the Chinese Lunar New Year, and for 2026, the focus shifts to the Year of the Horse. This annual tradition sees the Swiss manufacturer adapting one of its most recognizable platforms to honor the changing zodiac. The Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse, Reference IW501709, serves as the vessel for this celebration, limited to just 500 pieces worldwide. It combines the established architecture of the Portugieser line—a family of watches known for its imposing size and instrument-like clarity—with specific aesthetic cues designed to resonate with the cultural significance of the Lunar New Year. The release is timed to coincide with the start of the festivities on February 17, 2026, offering a tangible connection to the celestial calendar through mechanical craftsmanship.



The choice of the Portugieser for this specific edition is not arbitrary, as the model’s expansive dial offers a substantial canvas for the rich color palette chosen for the tribute. The Year of the Horse is associated with specific character traits in traditional Chinese culture, predominantly symbolizing energy, strength, and a spirited drive toward success. Those born under this sign are often characterized as active and independent, traits that align well with the robust nature of a large automatic wristwatch. IWC has translated these abstract concepts into a physical object by utilizing a color scheme and a unique movement component that directly reference the Zodiac animal, rather than altering the fundamental geometry that defines the Portugieser collection.



Historically, the Portugieser family traces its roots back to the late 1930s, when two Portuguese merchants approached the International Watch Company with a specific request for wristwatches that could match the precision of marine chronometers. At the time, the only way to achieve such accuracy was to house a large pocket watch movement inside a wristwatch case. This necessity dictated the form: a large, round case with a very thin bezel and a dial that prioritized legibility above all else. This reference IW501709 maintains that lineage, utilizing a case diameter of 42.4 millimeters. While this size is substantial, it remains true to the oversized origins of the reference 325, the original "Portuguese" watch, ensuring the piece retains the wrist presence that collectors have come to expect from the line.



The case is crafted from stainless steel, featuring a mix of brushed and polished surfaces that highlight the architectural lines of the lugs and the case band. The height of the watch stands at 13 millimeters, which is relatively moderate considering the complexity of the automatic movement housed within. A significant factor in the watch’s profile is the use of double box-glass sapphire crystals. The crystal on the front has an arched edge, creating a vintage aesthetic that mimics the acrylic crystals of the mid-20th century while providing the scratch resistance of modern sapphire. This design choice allows light to enter the dial from oblique angles, adding depth and three-dimensionality to the viewing experience without compromising the structural integrity required for a water resistance rating of 5 bar.



Visually, the most striking feature of this edition is the burgundy dial. Red is traditionally the color of good fortune, joy, and warding off evil spirits in Chinese culture, making it a staple for Lunar New Year editions. However, rather than a bright, fire-engine red, IWC has opted for a deeper, more sophisticated burgundy tone. The finish on the dial interacts dynamically with ambient light, likely utilizing a sunburst pattern that causes the red to shift from a vibrant crimson to a darker, almost wine-colored hue depending on the angle of the wrist. This dynamic quality prevents the watch from appearing flat or overly bold, allowing it to remain versatile enough for various formal contexts despite the strong color choice.



Contrasting against the rich red background are the golden hands and appliques, a classic color pairing that evokes prosperity. The hour markers are applied Arabic numerals in the signature font of the Portugieser collection—crisp, upright, and highly legible. The "railway" minute track, a feature reminiscent of pocket watches, circles the periphery of the dial, providing a precise scale for reading the minutes. The use of gold for these elements warms up the cool tones of the steel case and complements the red dial, creating a cohesive look that feels ceremonial. The hands themselves are leaf-shaped, or "feuille," tapering to delicate points that sweep across the dial with grace, further emphasizing the dressier nature of this timepiece.



The dial layout follows the symmetry established by the original Portugieser Automatic 2000, reference 5000. It features a bi-compax arrangement with two subdials placed horizontally at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions. The subdial at 9 o'clock houses the running small seconds, providing a constant visual indicator that the watch is operating. The subdial at 3 o'clock serves a different but equally critical function: the power reserve display. This indicator tracks the state of wind of the mainsprings, showing the remaining energy on a scale from one to seven days. The recessed nature of these subdials, which feature a concentric circular pattern known as azurage, adds a layer of texture to the face of the watch, breaking up the expanse of burgundy and catching the light differently than the main dial surface.



At the 6 o'clock position, a small rectangular aperture reveals the date. The date disc is white with black numerals, providing high contrast for readability. While some purists prefer dateless dials for perfect symmetry, the inclusion here adds practical utility to the watch, aligning with its role as a daily companion for the active individual symbolized by the horse. The window is framed discreetly, ensuring it does not overpower the other elements of the dial. The balance of the dial is maintained by the careful spacing of the IWC Schaffhausen logo below the 12 o'clock marker and the "Automatic" designation above the date window, keeping the vertical axis grounded amidst the horizontal dominance of the subdials.



Turning the watch over reveals the mechanical heart of the timepiece through the sapphire crystal caseback. The movement driving the Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse is the IWC-manufactured Caliber 52011. This movement is a modern iteration of the brand’s large automatic calibers, designed to be robust and efficient. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hertz, ensuring a high degree of precision. The movement is large, filling the case well, which is an aesthetic plus for enthusiasts who appreciate seeing a mechanism that is properly sized for the watch it powers, rather than a small movement surrounded by a large spacer ring.



The defining technical feature of the Caliber 52011 is the Pellaton winding system. Invented by IWC’s technical director Albert Pellaton in the late 1940s and early 1950s, this system uses a pawl-winding mechanism rather than direct gearing to transfer energy from the rotor to the mainspring. The genius of the system lies in its ability to harness the motion of the rotor in both directions—clockwise and counter-clockwise—to wind the watch. In the 52000 caliber family, IWC has updated this classic mechanism with modern materials tech. The pawls, the automatic wheel, and the rotor bearing are made from black zirconium oxide ceramic. This high-tech material is virtually wear-free, addressing the friction issues that traditionally plague automatic winding systems over long periods of use.



The power reserve of the Caliber 52011 is an impressive seven days, or 168 hours. This extended autonomy is achieved through the use of two barrels. While the original 5000 caliber used a single massive barrel to achieve the same run time, the switch to twin barrels in the newer generations allows for a more consistent delivery of torque to the escapement throughout the entire discharge cycle. This improves the isochronism of the watch, meaning it keeps time more consistently whether it is fully wound or nearing the end of its power reserve. The dial indicator at 3 o’clock allows the owner to easily monitor this long reserve, ensuring the watch never stops unexpectedly if left off the wrist for a few days.



For this specific Year of the Horse edition, the rotor has been completely reimagined. Instead of the standard open-worked oscillating weight, the rotor is a gold-plated medallion crafted in the shape of a galloping horse. The detail on the horse is intricate, with texturing that suggests the musculature and movement of the animal. It is depicted in full stride, tail flowing behind, capturing the kinetic energy associated with the zodiac sign. The rotor rotates freely over the movement bridges, which are finished with circular Geneva stripes and perlage. The contrast between the gold of the horse rotor and the silver tones of the rhodium-plated bridges creates a visual spectacle that is exclusive to this limited run. The "Probus Scafusia" seal, IWC’s motto meaning "Good, solid craftsmanship from Schaffhausen," is integrated into the design, reminding the owner of the brand’s industrial heritage.



The watch is secured to the wrist by a strap made of alligator leather. IWC supplies two straps with this edition to maximize versatility. The primary strap is black, offering a classic and formal look that tones down the colorful dial. An additional strap in burgundy is also included, allowing the owner to lean fully into the red theme of the watch. This second strap matches the dial perfectly, creating a bold, uniform aesthetic that makes a stronger statement. The strap width at the lugs is 22 millimeters, tapering to 18 millimeters at the buckle, a standard proportion that ensures comfort.



The buckle itself is a stainless steel folding clasp. Folding clasps are generally preferred on heavier watches as they provide a counterweight to the watch head, keeping the timepiece centered on the wrist. They also offer added security; if the clasp pops open, the watch remains a closed loop around the wrist rather than falling to the ground. The finishing on the clasp matches the case, with polished and brushed sections that reflect the attention to detail found elsewhere on the watch. The tactile experience of operating the clasp is solid and reassuring, consistent with IWC’s reputation for over-engineering their case components.



On the wrist, the 42.4-millimeter diameter and the relatively long lug-to-lug distance characteristic of the Portugieser mean that this watch commands attention. It is not a timepiece that slips unnoticed under a tight shirt cuff. The box-glass crystal adds slightly to the visual height, but the ergonomic curvature of the lugs helps the case hug the wrist, mitigating the size somewhat for those with average-sized wrists. The lack of a substantial bezel means the dial opening is vast, making the watch appear even larger than its dimensions suggest. This "all-dial" look is a signature of the Portugieser and contributes to its exceptional legibility.



The distinct combination of the stainless steel case and the burgundy dial strikes a balance between the celebratory nature of the release and the utilitarian roots of the model. While gold cases are often used for high-end commemorative editions, the choice of steel here keeps the watch grounded and perhaps more usable as a daily wearer. It lacks the softness of precious metal, making it more resistant to the dings and scratches of everyday life. The red dial serves as the primary indicator of its special status, differentiating it immediately from the standard silver or blue dials found in the core collection.



Collectors often appreciate the "Year of the" series for the unique rotors, as they represent one of the few times IWC significantly alters the architecture of the movement view. Seeing the horse gallop around the caseback as the wrist moves adds a playful and kinetic element to the ownership experience. It transforms the movement from a purely functional engine into a kinetic sculpture that honors the theme of the watch. The limitation to 500 pieces also adds a layer of exclusivity, appealing to those who seek variations of iconic models that are not widely seen in the wild.



The water resistance of 5 bar (approximately 50 meters) is sufficient for a watch of this class. It is capable of withstanding splashes and rain, though it is not designed for swimming or diving. Given the leather strap and the dressy nature of the complication, it is unlikely to be used in aquatic environments, but the rating provides peace of mind against accidental exposure to water. The crown, featuring the IWC logo, is non-screw-down, which makes winding and setting the watch a convenient process, inviting the user to interact with the mechanism.



Pricing for the IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse is set at US$ 15,500. This price point reflects the premium nature of the in-house 7-day movement, the limited production run, and the specialized manufacturing of the commemorative rotor and dial. The watch is available through IWC boutiques and authorized retailers, though given the limited number of 500 units, allocation may be tight, particularly in markets where the Lunar New Year is widely celebrated. The package includes the additional accessory strap, adding value and flexibility to the offering right out of the box.



Case: Stainless steel construction, 42.4 mm diameter, 13 mm height. Water resistance 5 Bar. Double box-glass sapphire crystals with antireflective coating on both sides. See-through sapphire glass back.

Movement: IWC-manufactured 52011 calibre, automatic self-winding with Pellaton winding system. 168 hours (7 days) power reserve. Frequency 28,800 Vph (4 Hz). 264 components, 31 jewels. Rotor with 18-carat gold medallion in shape of a galloping horse.

Dial: Burgundy color. Golden hands and appliques. Small hacking seconds, power reserve display, and date display.

Strap: Black alligator leather strap, 22 mm width. Stainless steel folding clasp (18 mm width). Includes additional burgundy alligator leather strap.

Price: US$ 15,500

Reference Number: IW501709

Notes: Limited edition of 500 pieces celebrating the Lunar New Year (Year of the Horse). Features unique gold-plated rotor in the form of a galloping horse.