Hublot Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo

The intersection of avant-garde fashion and high horology is often a noisy place, filled with bright colors and loud branding designed to capture attention from across a room. However, when Hublot joins forces with the legendary Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto, the result is the exact opposite: a study in stealth, texture, and the profound depth of the color black. Their latest collaboration, the Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo, marks the fourth time these two iconoclasts have united to redefine what a luxury timepiece can look like. It is a watch that eschews traditional decoration in favor of a stark, monochrome aesthetic that demands a closer look to be fully appreciated.

For this newest iteration, the partnership moves to the Classic Fusion collection, a line within Hublot’s catalog known for balancing the brand's signature boldness with a degree of restraint. This choice of canvas is significant, as it provides a pure, round silhouette that acts as the perfect backdrop for Yamamoto’s deconstructivist philosophy. The watch is not merely a timekeeping instrument but a narrative object that explores the "All Black" concept, a philosophy Hublot pioneered in 2006. In this context, black is treated not as the absence of light, but as a medium to reveal form through volume and texture.



The immediate visual impact of the Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo is one of cohesive intensity. The 42mm case is crafted from microblasted black ceramic, a material choice that speaks to Hublot’s technical expertise. Unlike traditional metals that reflect light, the microblasted finish absorbs it, creating a matte surface that feels almost geological. This ceramic is zirconium-based, sintered at extremely high temperatures to create a material that is ultra-tough and virtually scratch-proof, save for the hardness of a diamond. It ensures that the pristine, dark aesthetic of the watch remains unblemished over time, maintaining the integrity of the design.

The bezel, crafted from the same microblasted black ceramic, frames the dial with the signature H-shaped screws that define Hublot’s DNA. These six screws provide the only interruption to the matte ceramic surface, offering a subtle industrial edge to the otherwise organic flow of the case. The use of ceramic extends beyond mere aesthetics; it offers a lightweight wearing experience that defies the visual weight of the all-black construction. On the wrist, the material warms quickly to body temperature, making it a tactile pleasure to wear for extended periods.

The dial of this limited edition is where the influence of Yohji Yamamoto becomes most apparent. It features a camouflage pattern, a motif traditionally associated with concealment in military contexts or bold streetwear statements. However, in the hands of Yamamoto and Hublot, camouflage is reimagined as a study in relief and monochrome tonality. The pattern is executed entirely in shades of black and dark gray, created through distinct printing techniques that build height and texture on the dial surface.

This "black on black" approach means the camouflage pattern is not static; it shifts and morphs depending on the angle of the light. In low light, the dial appears almost uniform, a pool of deep ink. Under direct illumination, the raised sections of the camo pattern catch the light, revealing a complex topography of shapes that seem to float beneath the sapphire crystal. It is a dynamic display that rewards the wearer with a different visual experience throughout the day, embodying the idea of a "living" material.



At the six o'clock position, the signature of Yohji Yamamoto is emblazoned on the dial in a contrasting grey tone. The signature is scrawled in a chaotic yet deliberate hand, contrasting sharply with the geometric precision of the watch’s construction. It serves as a seal of approval from the master tailor, a reminder that this object sits at the nexus of Swiss precision and Japanese avant-garde design. The placement is balanced, anchoring the lower half of the dial without overwhelming the camouflage motif that serves as the visual protagonist.

Legibility on an "All Black" watch is often a secondary concern to the overall aesthetic, a philosophy Hublot has famously described as "visible invisibility." On this model, the hands and hour markers are blackened to match the case and dial, maintaining the uncompromising monochrome theme. While this might suggest difficulty in reading the time, the faceted finishing on the hands allows them to catch available light, separating them from the matte background of the dial. It creates a subtle contrast that allows the time to be read without breaking the immersive darkness of the piece.

The concept of "time felt, not displayed" is central to this collaboration. It aligns perfectly with Yamamoto’s approach to fashion, where the silhouette and the feeling of the fabric take precedence over overt branding or bright colors. The watch encourages a more intimate relationship with time, one where the wearer must engage with the object directly. It is a rebellious stance against the hyper-legible, utilitarian nature of traditional tool watches, positioning this piece firmly in the realm of kinetic art.



Turning the watch over reveals a smoked sapphire crystal caseback, offering a glimpse into the mechanical heart of the timepiece. The semi-transparent dark glass continues the mysterious vibe of the watch, allowing the movement to be seen but shrouding it in shadow. It is a thoughtful detail that ensures the "All Black" theme is not broken even on the parts of the watch that are rarely seen. The caseback also bears the engravings that denote the limited nature of the release, marking each piece as one of only 300 produced worldwide.

Powering the Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo is the HUB1110 self-winding movement. This automatic caliber is a reliable workhorse in the Hublot stable, beating at a standard frequency and offering a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. While the movement is robust and precise, its presence here is more about supporting the artistic vision of the watch than chasing haute horlogerie complications. The skeletonized rotor, visible through the smoked back, adds a layer of mechanical depth, its motions winding the mainspring with every movement of the wearer's wrist.

The strap of the watch is a critical component in the "fusion" narrative. It is constructed from a combination of black fabric and black rubber, a deliberate pairing that bridges the gap between Yamamoto’s textile mastery and Hublot’s material innovation. The fabric upper layer provides a texture that is reminiscent of the woven garments Yamamoto is famous for—wool, cotton, and silk layered to breathe. It gives the strap a sartorial quality, making it feel more like a cuff of a high-end jacket than a traditional watch attachment.

Underneath the fabric lies a foundation of durable black rubber. This is a classic Hublot touch, dating back to their disruption of the industry in 1980 when they first paired gold cases with rubber straps. The rubber lining ensures comfort and longevity, protecting the fabric from sweat and wear while helping the watch grip the wrist securely. The strap is secured with a black-plated steel deployant buckle, which operates smoothly and maintains the seamless, dark profile of the watch on the wrist.



The overall size of 42mm is a sweet spot for the Classic Fusion line. It is substantial enough to assert a presence—especially given the light-absorbing properties of the black ceramic—but slim enough to slide under a shirt cuff. The height of the case is kept relatively slender, thanks to the compact dimensions of the HUB1110 movement. This wearability is essential for a watch that aims to be "modest and confident," as Yamamoto describes the color black. It does not shout for attention with bulk; it draws the eye with its enigmatic finish.

The collaboration speaks to a shared history of challenging norms. Yohji Yamamoto’s 1981 debut in Paris was a shock to the system of the fashion world, introducing oversized, dark, deconstructed silhouettes at a time when excess and color were the trends. Similarly, Hublot’s entry into the watch world was defined by breaking the rules of material usage. Both brands have built their legacies on the idea of the "antithesis"—creating luxury through opposition to established standards. This watch is the physical manifestation of that shared spirit of rebellion.

Water resistance is rated at 50 meters, or 5 ATM. While this is not a diving watch by any stretch of the imagination, this rating provides more than enough protection for daily life. It can withstand splashes, rain, and the occasional immersion, ensuring that the watch is a practical companion for the urban explorer. The focus here is on urban utility and style rather than deep-sea performance, which aligns with the lifestyle of the typical Yohji Yamamoto collector.

The "All Black" concept, as interpreted here, is about stripping an object down to its essence. By removing color, the designers force the eye to focus on the lines, the curves, and the textures. It is a purification of form. The camouflage pattern, usually a chaotic element, becomes a structured, rhythmic addition to the dial. It adds motion to a static object, suggesting the fluidity of fabric or the shifting shadows of a cityscape at night.



Each of the 300 pieces in this limited edition comes in a special presentation box, also designed with the "All Black" aesthetic in mind. The packaging is not an afterthought but an extension of the experience, likely featuring the same interplay of matte and gloss textures found on the watch itself. For collectors, the unboxing experience sets the stage for the moody, sophisticated piece inside, reinforcing the exclusivity of the collaboration.

The Hublot Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo is a limited edition release, restricted to just 300 pieces globally. This exclusivity ensures that it will remain a rare sight, sought after by both sneakerheads and serious horologists alike. The timepiece is priced at $12,700 USD and is available through a select network of Hublot boutiques and the brand's online e-commerce platform. Given the fervent following of both the Swiss watchmaker and the Japanese designer, this monochromatic masterpiece is expected to disappear into private collections with the same stealthy efficiency it displays on the wrist.

Case: 42 mm diameter microblasted black ceramic case and bezel. Water resistant to 50m (5 ATM). Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment.

Movement: HUB1110 self-winding automatic movement. Approximately 48 hours of power reserve.

Dial: Black and grey camo printing.

Strap: Black fabric and black rubber strap with black-plated steel deployant buckle.

Price: $12,700 USD

Reference Number: 542.CI.6670.NR.YOY

Notes: Limited edition of 300 pieces. Fourth collaboration between Hublot and Yohji Yamamoto.