The intersection of industrial design and high-end horology has always been a space of friction and fascination, a place where the raw aesthetics of urban architecture collide with the delicate precision of Swiss manufacturing. This specific convergence is nowhere more apparent than in the latest output from the ongoing partnership between Nyon-based manufacture Hublot and British creative director Samuel Ross. Their collaborative efforts have previously yielded highly sculptural, almost avant-garde timepieces, but the arrival of the Big Bang Unico SR-A Samuel Ross All Black marks a distinct shift in their shared narrative. It represents a move from the hyper-exclusive realm of the tourbillon into a slightly more democratized, yet equally rigorous, expression of their combined design languages. This is a watch that does not merely tell time; it articulates a philosophy of "stealth, strength, and speed," wrapping the wrist in a monochrome armor that feels both futuristic and deeply grounded in material science.
To understand the gravity of this release, one must first appreciate the lineage from which it springs, particularly the twenty-year history of the "All Black" concept at Hublot. Two decades ago, the idea of a luxury watch completely devoid of contrast—black hands on a black dial within a black case—was viewed as counterintuitive, perhaps even subversive. Yet, it established a trend that the industry has since embraced wholeheartedly. This new reference acts as a celebratory milestone for that anniversary, yet it filters the heritage through Ross’s distinct brutalist lens. The result is not just a darkened watch, but an object that absorbs light and attention in equal measure. The ceramic construction is paramount here; it is not merely a coating but the structural essence of the piece. Zirconium sintered at extreme temperatures creates a chassis that is virtually impervious to scratches, ensuring that the satin-finished and polished surfaces retain their industrial sheen essentially forever.
Courtesy of Hublot
Visually, the timepiece commands attention through its aggressive yet refined geometry, maintaining the classic 42mm stance that has made this specific case shape a favorite among collectors who demand presence without unwearable bulk. The case itself is a study in texture, alternating between light-absorbing matte finishes and light-reflecting polished chamfers that highlight the architectural complexity of the construction. It looks less like a traditional jewelry item and more like a precision instrument machined from a solid block of stealth material. The iconic H-shaped screws, plated in black titanium, stud the bezel, reinforcing the mechanical nature of the design. They serve as visual anchors, reminding the wearer that this is a construction of assembled parts, a machine held together by tension and engineering rather than seamless, organic flow.
The dial—or rather, the absence of a traditional dial—is where the "Unico" designation truly proves its worth. A matte black skeletonized interface strips away any unnecessary material, offering an unobstructed view into the mechanical gut of the watch. It is a chaotic yet organized lattice of gears, springs, and levers, all finished in varying shades of grey and black to maintain the monochrome ethos. The decision to skeletonize the display is not purely aesthetic; it serves the narrative of transparency that Ross often employs in his design studio, SR_A. By removing the opaque barrier between the user and the engine, the watch becomes an honest object, hiding nothing of its function. The industrial grey of the hands and indices provides just enough contrast against the abyss of the movement to remain legible, a subtle nod to the functionality required of a tool watch.
Powering this blackened vessel is the HUB1280 Unico Manufacture movement, a self-winding chronograph flyback caliber that has become a pillar of modern reliability. Comprising 354 individual components, the movement is a testament to the brand's insistence on vertical integration. Unlike standard modular chronographs, this caliber was designed from the ground up to be a chronograph, featuring a column wheel that is visible from the dial side—a rare treat for enthusiasts who enjoy watching the mechanical coupling engage when the pusher is depressed. The flyback function adds a layer of practical utility, allowing the wearer to reset and restart the timing mechanism with a single push, a feature originally developed for pilots who needed to synchronize navigation instantly. With a power reserve of approximately 72 hours, the watch is designed to be set down on a Friday and picked up on a Monday morning without missing a beat, fitting perfectly into the rhythm of a modern lifestyle.
Courtesy of Hublot
The integration of the strap into the overall design language is perhaps one of the most striking features of this release, moving beyond the standard rubber offerings to something that feels architecturally significant. The strap utilizes a vivid honeycomb structure, a motif that has become a signature in Samuel Ross’s body of work. This hexagonal pattern is not merely a surface print but a three-dimensional molding that creates depth and texture. The decision to perforate the rubber in this manner serves a dual purpose: it reduces the physical weight of the strap, contributing to the overall lightness of the piece, and it allows for airflow, making the watch incredibly comfortable during extended wear. Ross has described this process as "taking information away" to increase lightness, a sculptural approach to ergonomics that transforms a simple retention device into a critical component of the watch's identity.
On the wrist, the interplay between the structured rubber strap and the ceramic case creates a silhouette that is unmistakably contemporary. The way the strap flows directly into the lugs without a traditional break creates a unified form, making the watch feel like a singular, cohesive object rather than a head attached to a band. The deployant buckle, crafted from black ceramic and black-plated titanium, continues the material story all the way around the wrist. It clicks shut with a reassuring solidity, securing the "wearable machine" against the skin. The honeycomb pattern on the strap also catches the light in a unique way, breaking up the matte blackness with pockets of shadow and depth, adding a tactile dimension that invites the wearer to run their fingers over the surface.
This release signifies a maturation of the partnership, moving from the high-concept, low-production art pieces of the past toward a model that sits comfortably within the core collection while retaining its special edition allure. The previous SR_A editions were defined by their tourbillon movements—mechanisms that are undeniably prestigious but perhaps less suited for the rugged, hands-on lifestyle that Ross envisions for his designs. By equipping this new model with the Unico chronograph, the collaboration embraces a spirit of utility and robustness. It acknowledges that a watch designed with industrial codes should be able to withstand the rigors of daily life, functioning as a companion for the active creative rather than a delicate object to be kept in a safe.
The chromatic discipline displayed here is worth noting further; "All Black" is often a marketing term, but here it is executed with a painterly eye for tonality. It is not a flat, dead black, but a living spectrum of charcoal, slate, onyx, and obsidian. The sapphire crystal, treated with anti-reflective coating, disappears almost entirely at certain angles, leaving the wearer face-to-face with the matte bridges and the glinting gear train. The sheer depth of the dial is mesmerizing, with layers of mechanics stacked upon one another. The date wheel, often a point of contention in skeletonized watches, is integrated seamlessly, visible as a ring bordering the movement, with the current date framed in a window that feels technical and deliberate, like a gauge in a cockpit.
Courtesy of Hublot
One cannot overlook the influence of Samuel Ross’s background in sociological and industrial design on the final product. His studio, SR_A, often explores themes of brutalism and the built environment, and those influences are palpable in the sharp angles and bevels of the watch case. It feels like a piece of micro-architecture, a structure designed to house a living mechanism. The "SR_A" branding is present but not overpowering, integrated into the aesthetic in a way that suggests a true co-creation rather than a simple licensing deal. This is a product where the DNA of the watchmaker and the DNA of the designer have been spliced together, resulting in a mutation that is stronger and more visually compelling than the sum of its parts.
The technical specifications regarding water resistance further solidify its status as a luxury sports watch. With a rating of 100 meters or 10 ATM, this is not a fragile piece of haute horlogerie that fears a splash of water. The robustness of the Unico movement coupled with the impervious nature of the ceramic case and the water resistance means this watch is capable of accompanying its owner through almost any environment. Whether it is the humidity of a chaotic urban summer or the submerged pressures of a casual swim, the engineering holds up. This aligns perfectly with Ross’s statement about envisioning a "wearable machine for the wrist built for a rugged, hands-on lifestyle." It is a tool meant to be used, not just displayed.
The skeletonization process also reveals the silicon escapement, a high-tech component that requires no lubrication and is unaffected by magnetic fields. In an era where we are constantly surrounded by the magnetic signatures of smartphones, laptops, and induction chargers, this feature is critical for maintaining accurate timekeeping. The use of silicon is another example of the "Art of Fusion," combining traditional mechanical principles with cutting-edge materials science. It ensures that the watch remains precise, with an accuracy rating of -2/+4 seconds per day, rivaling the best chronometers in the world. This dedication to performance underpins the visual flair, ensuring that the style is backed by substantial substance.
Collectors will likely appreciate the subtle details that differentiate this limited edition from the standard Big Bang Unico models. The specific layout of the honeycomb strap, the customized branding on the dial and case back, and the specific chromatic treatment of the movement bridges all signal that this is a special release. It sits in a unique position within the catalog—more attainable than a sapphire tourbillon, yet significantly more exclusive and design-forward than a standard production piece. It bridges the gap between merchandise and art, offering a slice of the SR_A design philosophy in a package that fits on the wrist.
Courtesy of Hublot
The tactile experience of the watch is dominated by the temperature-neutral feel of ceramic. Unlike steel or gold, which can feel shockingly cold when first strapped on, ceramic adjusts quickly to body temperature, making it incredibly comfortable. It is also lighter than steel, which, when combined with the perforated rubber strap, results in a 42mm watch that wears much lighter than one might expect. This lightness is deceptive, given the visual weight of the blacked-out aesthetic, creating a sensory contradiction that delights the wearer. It looks heavy and substantial, like a piece of military hardware, but it feels agile and athletic.
Furthermore, the column-wheel chronograph mechanism provides a tactile crispness that is highly prized by enthusiasts. The start, stop, and reset actions of the pushers are distinct and smooth, devoid of the mushiness sometimes found in cam-actuated systems. This mechanical feedback is a crucial part of the user experience, connecting the wearer physically to the passage of time. When the chronograph is running, the central seconds hand sweeps smoothly around the dial, a relentless forward motion that contrasts with the static, architectural solidity of the case.
The concept of "fusion" extends to the very philosophy of the watch's existence. It fuses the heritage of Swiss watchmaking with the forward-looking, somewhat dystopian optimism of modern British industrial design. It brings together the organic honeycomb shape found in nature with the synthetic perfection of sintered ceramic. It merges the history of the 2005 Big Bang with the future of the SR_A aesthetic. This layering of concepts creates a rich narrative for the owner, who is not just buying a timekeeper but a piece of a continuing dialogue between two creative powerhouses.
Courtesy of Hublot
In the broader context of the watch market, monochrome black watches have transitioned from a niche curiosity to a staple genre, largely thanks to the brand's early experiments. However, keeping the "All Black" look fresh after twenty years is a challenge. This release succeeds by focusing on texture and structure rather than just color. By playing with the way light hits the honeycomb rubber, the satin ceramic, and the skeletonized movement, the watch achieves a level of visual interest that a flat black watch could never sustain. It proves that the absence of color does not mean the absence of character.
For those interested in acquiring this piece of industrial art, the Hublot Big Bang UNICO SR-A Samuel Ross All Black is priced at USD 31,200. It is a strictly limited edition, with only 200 examples being produced for the global market. The timepiece is available for purchase through a selection of the brand's boutiques and authorized points of sale, as well as via their official online platform. Given the limited production run and the significant interest surrounding Samuel Ross’s design ventures, availability is expected to be scarce, catering to a select group of collectors who appreciate the unique fusion of horological tradition and avant-garde industrialism.
Case: 42mm diameter. Satin-finished and polished black Ceramic construction. Satin-finished and Polished Black Ceramic bezel with 6 H-shaped Black-plated Titanium screws. Sapphire crystal with Anti-reflective Treatment. Water resistant to 100m or 10 ATM.
Movement: HUB1280 UNICO Manufacture Self-winding Chronograph Flyback Movement with Column Wheel. Features double clutch system and column-wheel visible from dial side. 72-hour power reserve. Construction of 354 components.
Dial: Matte Black Skeleton Dial.
Strap: Black Structured Honeycomb Rubber Straps. Black Ceramic and Black-plated Titanium Deployant Buckle Clasp.
Price: USD 31,200
Reference Number: 441.CX.1140.RX.SRA26
Notes: Limited Edition of 200 pieces. First signature SR_A model equipped with the Manufacture’s Unico chronograph calibre. Celebrates the 20th anniversary of Hublot's first All Black timepiece.