Hermes ARCEAU Jour de casting

Hermès has cultivated a unique relationship with the concept of time. In an industry often obsessed with measuring, controlling, and optimizing every last second, the Parisian house chooses instead to explore a different path. For Hermès, time is an object, a companion, and a space for recreation and spontaneity. This philosophy is not just marketing text; it is a genuine creative brief that informs their watchmaking, leading to poetic complications like the famous "Le temps suspendu" (Time suspended) models, which pause the indication of time with a button press. This playful and artistic approach to horology sets the stage for their latest creations, a series of watches that celebrate craft, character, and the brand's equestrian roots.



The foundation of Hermès, established in 1837 by Thierry Hermès, was not in watches or silks, but in high-quality harnesses and bridles for the equestrian world. This origin story is not just a historical footnote; it is the core DNA that informs the design language of the entire maison. The exceptional skill in leatherworking, the focus on functionality, and the appreciation for beautiful, durable objects transitioned seamlessly from harnesses to saddles, and eventually to iconic leather goods like the Haut à courroies bag. This expansion continued into other areas of life, most notably with the introduction of their famed silk scarves in 1937, which became canvases for intricate artistry. It wasn't until 1978 that La Montre Hermès, the dedicated watch division, was established in Switzerland, but it brought with it this entire legacy of design and craft.



That same year, 1978, saw the birth of one of the brand's most enduring watch designs: the Arceau. Created by the legendary Hermès designer Henri d’Origny, the Arceau is a brilliant translation of the house's equestrian spirit into horological form. Its silhouette is its signature. The round case is intentionally unbalanced by its unique lugs, which are directly inspired by the shape of a stirrup. The upper lug is an elongated, curved loop that the strap passes through, while the lower lug is a more conventional, shorter attachment. This asymmetry gives the watch a dynamic, forward-leaning posture on the wrist, a subtle nod to motion and the riding world. Over the decades, this distinctive case has served as the perfect frame for Hermès's explorations into métiers d'art.



These "artistic crafts" are central to the identity of Hermès watchmaking. The dial is not merely a surface for displaying time but a miniature canvas for showcasing rare and demanding skills, many of which are disappearing elsewhere. Techniques like miniature painting, complex enameling, and wood marquetry are not just decorations; they are the entire point of the watch, demonstrating a commitment to human touch and patient, analogue artistry in a digital age. This dedication finds its newest expression in the Arceau Jour de Casting collection, a trio of watches that bring a charming and mischievous bestiary to life.



The collection was unveiled for the first time at the Hermès 706 Madison Avenue flagship in New York, as part of an exhibition titled "Hermès Time suspended." The scenography, imagined by artist Sarah-Anaïs Desbenoit, created an immersive cinematic landscape where images would emerge and fade, echoing the fleeting, dreamlike hours of early dawn. Within this setting, the new Arceau Jour de Casting watches were presented, their playful dials offering a whimsical counterpoint to the pensive atmosphere. These watches are a direct horological interpretation of the "Jour de casting" silk scarf, originally designed by artist Liz Stirling.



The three watches—Orson, Amy, and Taco—are charming portraits of well-groomed dogs, each "auditioning" for their role. Each dial captures a distinct personality, and, more importantly, each is a masterclass in a different artisanal technique. A unifying detail across all three models is a tiny, three-dimensional bone-shaped tag dangling from the dog's collar or floating nearby. This tag, crafted from genuine leather, is a clever and direct reference to the brand's foundational craft of leatherworking, subtly signing the dial as unmistakably Hermès.



The first model, "Orson," is a portrait of a shaggy black and white dog, brought to life through the incredibly intricate craft of wood marquetry. This technique is effectively a miniature jigsaw puzzle. The artisan must meticulously cut, assemble, and glue tiny pieces from different woods to create the image. For Orson's dial, eight different types of wood were used to capture the texture and depth of his chaotic fur. The varying grains and natural tones of the wood create a sense of movement. To achieve the sharp detail and expressive light in the animal's face, the marquetry is supplemented with miniature painting on the muzzle, the bright, alert eyes, and the small bit of tongue peeking out. The background is a soft, textured blue, allowing the dark-furred dog to stand out.



The second watch features "Amy," a fluffy, caramel-colored dog whose personality is defined by a massive pair of colorful sunglasses. This dial is a showcase for engraving and hand-painting. The process begins in the engraver's workshop, where the artisan patiently carves into the dial to create the deep, soft texture of Amy's fur. This engraving work provides a three-dimensional base for the painter. Then, through subtle brushstrokes and a vibrant color palette, the dog comes to life. The sunglasses are the star, with rainbow-striped lenses and a textured blue frame, giving Amy an air of playful confidence. The entire piece requires successive firing operations to set the colors, building up nuances and details that make the mischievous animal appear ready to leap off the dial.



The third member of the trio is "Taco," a white-haired dog with "laughing eyes" and a happy, open-mouthed expression. This dial utilizes a combination of miniature and cloisonné enameling. The artisan starts by applying a thin, even layer of bright blue enamel to the dial base. On top of this snailed background, the dog's white coat is meticulously hand-painted, a demonstration of miniature enamel painting. The cloisonné technique is then used to add relief and definition to the fur and the intricate details of the collar. This ancient method involves shaping incredibly thin gold wires to delineate the different areas of the design. These "cells" are then packed with enamel powder of various colors and fired, melting the enamel and fusing it to the gold wires, which remain visible, outlining the design.



All three artistic dials are framed by the same precious case. The classic 38 mm round Arceau case is rendered in white gold. The bezel is set with 71 diamonds, adding a ring of brilliance that contrasts beautifully with the artisanal, earthy dials. The crown is also set with a single, elegant rose-cut diamond, a refined detail. The watch is protected by anti-glare sapphire crystal on both the front and the case-back, the latter offering a view of the mechanical movement inside. The case is water-resistant to 3 bar, or 30 meters, underlining its status as a piece of wearable art rather than a tool for aquatic pursuits.



Powering these timepieces is the Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement. The "Manufacture" designation is key, as it signifies this is a proprietary movement developed for the house, crafted in Switzerland. It is a mechanical self-winding caliber, meaning it is powered by the natural motion of the wearer's wrist. It measures a slender 3.7 mm thick, allowing the 38 mm case to maintain a slim profile. The H1912 operates at a modern frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), which ensures reliable timekeeping. It provides a solid 50-hour power reserve, enough to let the watch rest over a weekend and find it still ticking on Monday. The movement is solely dedicated to displaying the hours and minutes, a deliberate choice to leave the dial uncluttered and provide an unobstructed view of the artwork.



Each of the three Arceau Jour de Casting models is paired with a strap made from Hermès's supple Swift calfskin, connecting the watch directly to the house's leather goods expertise. The strap color for each watch is chosen to perfectly complement its dial. Orson, with his black fur and blue background, is matched with a classic Noir (black) strap. Amy, the tan-furred dog with the colorful shades, is paired with a warm Ambre (amber/tan) strap. Taco, set against his vibrant "Bleu jean" background, comes on a matching Bleu jean strap.



These watches are not regular production models but highly exclusive, numbered limited editions. "Orson," the wood marquetry model, is the most exclusive, limited to just 12 pieces worldwide. The "Amy" and "Taco" models are each limited to 24 pieces. This extreme rarity underscores their status as collectibles for lovers of both fine watchmaking and decorative arts. As is common for timepieces where the value is so heavily concentrated in the hand-craftsmanship and precious materials, the price is available only upon request.



ARCEAU Jour de casting - ORSON



Case: Rond, 38 mm in diameter. White gold, set with 71 diamonds. Crown set with a rose-cut diamond. Anti-glare sapphire crystal and case-back. Water resistant to 3 bar.

Movement: Manufacture Hermès H1912 mechanical self-winding movement. 23.9 mm diameter, 3.7 mm thick. 50-hour power reserve. 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). Hours and minutes functions.

Dial: Wood marquetry and leather dial depicting the dog Orson.

Strap: Noir Swift calfskin.

Price: Price Upon Request.

Reference Number:

Notes: Numbered limited edition of 12. The dial is crafted from eight different types of wood, assembled like a jigsaw puzzle, with painted details.





ARCEAU Jour de casting - AMY



Case: Rond, 38 mm in diameter. White gold, set with 71 diamonds. Crown set with a rose-cut diamond. Anti-glare sapphire crystal and case-back. Water resistant to 3 bar.

Movement: Manufacture Hermès H1912 mechanical self-winding movement. 23.9 mm diameter, 3.7 mm thick. 50-hour power reserve. 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). Hours and minutes functions.

Dial: Hand-painted engraved and leather dial depicting the dog Amy.

Strap: Ambre Swift calfskin.

Price: Price Upon Request.

Reference Number:

Notes: Numbered limited edition of 24. The dial is first engraved to create texture for the fur, then brought to life with miniature painting and successive firings.





ARCEAU Jour de casting - TACO



Case: Rond, 38 mm in diameter. White gold, set with 71 diamonds. Crown set with a rose-cut diamond. Anti-glare sapphire crystal and case-back. Water resistant to 3 bar.

Movement: Manufacture Hermès H1912 mechanical self-winding movement. 23.9 mm diameter, 3.7 mm thick. 50-hour power reserve. 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). Hours and minutes functions.

Dial: Enamel and leather dial depicting the dog Taco.

Strap: Bleu jean Swift calfskin.

Price: Price Upon Request.

Reference Number:

Notes: Numbered limited edition of 24. The dial uses both miniature painting (for the white coat) and cloisonné enamel, where gold wires delineate the design.