HAUTLENCE Helix Series 1

In the often-traditional landscape of fine watchmaking, certain creations emerge that defy easy categorization. These are timepieces born not from a desire to fit in, but from a compulsion to explore the very mechanics and philosophy of time itself. The Hautlence Helix Series 1 stands firmly in this camp, a bold statement piece that merges aggressive design with sophisticated, unconventional engineering. It is a product of an independent spirit, conceived for those who appreciate horology as a form of mechanical art.

HAUTLENCE, a brand whose name is an anagram of its Neuchâtel birthplace, has cultivated a reputation for architectural and avant-garde time-telling since its inception in 2004. Now based in Schaffhausen and with the backing of MELB Holding, the brand continues to carve its own path, creating timepieces for a niche of collectors who seek mechanical ingenuity over mass-market appeal. The annual production of around 200 pieces underscores this commitment to exclusivity and focused creativity, allowing the brand to develop its nine in-house calibres and pursue a vision that is distinctly its own. The Helix Series 1 is the latest chapter in this ongoing narrative of horological rebellion.



The initial visual encounter with the Helix Series 1 is one of stark geometry and industrial purpose. The watch introduces a new rectangular case for the brand, a form that feels both compact and monumental on the wrist. Measuring 37.0 mm by 45.10 mm, its presence is undeniable, yet thoughtfully proportioned. The case is machined from grade 5 titanium, a material chosen for its combination of lightness and strength. Its surfaces are treated with a combination of satin-finishing and polishing, creating a dynamic interplay of light and shadow that highlights the sharp, uncompromising lines of its "refined brutalist" architecture.

Crowning this titanium monolith is a dramatically domed sapphire crystal. This is not merely a protective covering but a primary design element. The exaggerated curvature acts like a powerful lens, distorting and magnifying the mechanical theatre beneath it. Producing such a precisely curved piece of sapphire is a significant technical undertaking, but the result is a captivating visual effect that draws the eye directly to the watch's conceptual and mechanical heart. This crystal adds a surprising element of softness to the otherwise assertive design, bending light and focusing attention inward.

At the very center of the Helix Series 1, showcased beneath the grand dome of the crystal, lies the main event: a central cylindrical tourbillon. This is not the familiar, flat-spinning tourbillon commonly seen in watchmaking. Instead, HAUTLENCE has engineered a three-dimensional cage that spirals vertically. This kinetic sculpture becomes the absolute focal point, a mesmerizing vortex that seems to animate the entire timepiece. It rotates with a deliberate, steady rhythm, a constant visual reminder of the complex engineering that powers this machine. The tourbillon is not just a complication here; it is the philosophical core of the watch, representing a spiraling, ever-evolving concept of time.

Flanking the central tourbillon are the mechanisms for displaying the time, which are as unconventional as the regulator itself. The watch forgoes traditional hands in favor of two retrograde displays for the hours and minutes. Positioned on either side of the central cage, these indicators perform a crisp, mechanical ballet. The pointers travel along their respective arcs, and upon reaching the end of their scale, they instantly jump back to the beginning to start their journey anew. This retrograde action adds a layer of dynamic, punctuated movement to the dial, a choreography that complements the smooth, continuous spiral of the tourbillon.



The dial itself is a multi-layered affair, skeletonized to reveal the intricate workings of the movement below. The base is a rhodium-plated brass plate with a vertical satin finish, providing a textured, industrial backdrop. The hour and minute tracks are executed in a striking blue, achieved through an ALD (Atomic Layer Deposition) coating on rhodium-plated brass, which offers a vibrant contrast to the metallic tones of the case and movement. This construction creates a sense of depth and complexity, inviting closer inspection of the various gears, levers, and bridges that constitute the watch's inner world.

For low-light visibility, HAUTLENCE has utilized 3D Globolight® for the numerals and indexes. This innovative ceramic-based composite material contains Super-LumiNova® and can be molded into three-dimensional shapes, offering superior and long-lasting luminosity. The blocky, modern font of the numerals enhances the watch's contemporary aesthetic while ensuring that the unconventional display remains perfectly legible in all conditions. The blue glow of the numerals harmonizes with the blue of the retrograde tracks, creating a cohesive and futuristic nocturnal signature.

Powering this intricate display is the D51 automatic calibre, an in-house movement designed, developed, and manufactured by HAUTLENCE. The decision to use a micro-rotor for winding is key to the watch's balanced proportions. By integrating a smaller, off-center oscillating weight, the movement's overall thickness is reduced, allowing for the dramatic height of the domed crystal and central tourbillon without creating an unwieldy case. This thoughtful engineering allows the watch to maintain a thickness of 11.8 mm, a very reasonable dimension for such a complex piece.

The D51 movement is composed of 235 individual components, a testament to its complexity. It operates at a frequency of 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour, a steady beat that ensures reliable timekeeping. The movement is equipped with 36 jewels to reduce friction at key pivot points, enhancing longevity and performance. When fully wound, the calibre provides a substantial power reserve of 65 hours, meaning the watch can be set down for a weekend and will still be running on Monday morning, a practical feature that adds to its daily wearability.



The case construction is robust, designed for performance beyond its aesthetic appeal. The use of grade 5 titanium for the case middle, bezel, and crown ensures a high degree of corrosion resistance and biocompatibility. The polished crown is thoughtfully designed with a black rubber ring for enhanced grip and is engraved with the HAUTLENCE logo. The caseback is fitted with a sapphire crystal, offering a secondary view into the intricacies of the D51 calibre and bearing engravings that denote the brand, water resistance, and its Swiss origin.

A notable feature of the case is its water resistance rating of 10 ATM, equivalent to 100 meters. This is an unusually high rating for a watch with such a complex, non-traditional case shape and a prominent tourbillon. It speaks to the quality of the engineering and gaskets, ensuring that the Helix Series 1 is not a fragile piece of art but a machine built to withstand the rigors of an active lifestyle. This level of water resistance provides peace of mind and broadens the scope of environments where the watch can be confidently worn.

The integration of the strap to the case is seamless, a fluid extension of the case's architectural lines. The watch is fitted with a gray rubber strap that features navy blue textile inserts, a color combination that perfectly complements the blue accents on the dial and the cool tones of the titanium case. The strap is designed for comfort and durability, and importantly, it incorporates a quick-release function, allowing the owner to easily swap it out without the need for tools, adding a layer of versatility.

Securing the watch to the wrist is a buckle also crafted from grade 5 titanium, matching the case material and finish. This attention to detail, extending even to the buckle, ensures a cohesive and high-quality feel throughout the entire timepiece. The choice of materials reinforces the modern, technical identity of the Helix Series 1.



The philosophy behind the Helix is one of forward motion. The brand posits that this watch is for those who view time not as a flat circle of repetition, but as an upward spiral where each moment builds upon the last, constantly evolving. This conceptual framework is physically embodied in the central cylindrical tourbillon, making the watch a piece of wearable philosophy. It’s a departure from the nostalgic designs that dominate much of the industry, representing a conscious choice to look forward.

This timepiece is a clear reflection of HAUTLENCE's strategic direction since 2022. The brand has sharpened its focus, adopting a more contemporary and sporty aesthetic while doubling down on the mechanical codes that first earned it acclaim. By creating a more exclusive distribution network and refining its visual identity, HAUTLENCE is solidifying its position as a leading independent watchmaker, capable of executing highly ambitious and technically demanding projects like the Helix.

The limited nature of this release is a key aspect of its appeal to serious collectors. With only 28 pieces being produced worldwide, the Helix Series 1 is an exceptionally rare object. This scarcity ensures that each owner is part of a very small circle of enthusiasts who appreciate this specific blend of avant-garde design and mechanical innovation. It is not a watch that one is likely to see on another wrist, adding to its unique character.

HAUTLENCE has never been a brand for the faint of heart. Its creations consistently challenge preconceived notions of what a watch should look like and how it should display time. The Helix Series 1 is a powerful continuation of this legacy. It doesn't whisper; it makes a statement with its assertive form, its three-dimensional tourbillon, and its dynamic retrograde displays. It is a machine that celebrates its own mechanics, putting them front and center for all to see.



This is a timepiece that demands engagement. It is not a passive object but an active one, with its jumping retrograde indicators and constantly spiraling tourbillon creating a sense of perpetual motion. It is a conversation starter, a piece that invites questions and rewards close inspection with its layers of detail and high-quality finishing. It successfully merges the raw power of brutalist architecture with the refined precision of high-end watchmaking.

The HAUTLENCE Helix Series 1 is offered at a price of CHF 75,000. Given the in-house movement, the complexity of the central cylindrical tourbillon, the retrograde displays, and the extremely limited production run of just 28 pieces, this positions the watch within the upper echelon of independent horology. Availability is, by design, highly restricted, with pieces allocated to select retail partners and dedicated collectors who follow the brand's unique journey. The Helix Series 1 is a definitive statement of HAUTLENCE's creative and technical capabilities in 2025.

Case: Rectangular case in satin-finished and polished grade 5 titanium. Dimensions are 37.0 x 45.10 x 11.8 mm. Features an extra-hard domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and a sapphire crystal caseback. Water-resistant to 10 ATM.

Movement: In-house D51 automatic mechanical movement with a microrotor. Features retrograde hours and minutes and a central cylindrical tourbillon. Beats at 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour) with a power reserve of 65 hours. Composed of 235 components and 36 jewels.

Dial: Skeletonized and rhodium-plated brass with vertical finishing. Hour and minute displays are rhodium-plated brass with a blue ALD coating. Features 3D Globolight® numerals and indexes for luminosity.

Strap: Gray rubber strap with navy blue textile inserts. Features a grade 5 titanium buckle and a quick strap release function.

Price: CHF 75’000

Reference Number: CD51-TI00

Notes: This is a limited edition of 28 pieces. The watch is defined by its central cylindrical tourbillon, retrograde time display, and a distinctive rectangular case design.