Contemporary horology often finds itself balancing on a tightrope between the reverent preservation of historical artifacts and the necessary drive toward modern innovation. It is within this precise intersection that the German manufacturer Hanhart has operated for well over a century, establishing a reputation for producing no-nonsense, high-precision chronographs that served pilots and naval officers when mechanical reliability was a matter of survival. The latest chapter in this storied lineage arrives in the form of the Red Lion Mk II, a collaborative effort that sees Hanhart partnering once again with TGV, the founder of The Urban Gentry, and his design studio, Gentry Labs. This release is not merely a reissue of a dusty reference from the archives but rather a speculative evolution, posing the intriguing question of what might have happened had the legendary 417 ES model continued its developmental trajectory into the modern era with enhanced functionality. The result is a limited edition of 200 pieces that manages to feel both deeply rooted in the mid-20th century and acutely aware of the demands placed on a contemporary daily wearer.
The genesis of the Red Lion Mk II lies in a shared passion for the "Flieger" aesthetic, a design language characterized by stark legibility, robust construction, and ergonomic priority. The collaboration with TGV brings a curatorial eye to the project, one that understands the nuance of enthusiast desires. Where many brands might simply change a dial color and call it a limited edition, the approach here was to fundamentally assess the utility of the watch. The design philosophy circles around the concept of the "Mk II," a designation often used in military and engineering contexts to denote a substantial upgrade or a second iteration that irons out previous limitations while introducing new capabilities. This watch serves as a hypothesized successor to the 417 ES, maintaining the soul of the original pilot’s chronograph while integrating features that transition it from a pure cockpit instrument to a versatile travel companion.
Courtesy of Hanhart
Visually, the watch commands attention through a carefully sculpted stainless steel case that measures a versatile 39mm in diameter. This sizing is a deliberate nod to the vintage proportions that collectors favor, avoiding the modern tendency to inflate pilot watches to unmanageable dimensions. The case features a height of 13.6mm, which, while substantial, is mitigated by the case geometry and the domed nature of the sapphire crystal. The interplay between the satin-finished surfaces and the polished highlights creates a sophisticated industrial look, suggesting a tool that is meant to be used rather than baby-ed. The lugs are drilled and curve gently downward, ensuring that the lug-to-lug distance of 46mm hugs the wrist comfortably, making it accessible to a wide variety of wrist sizes. It is a form factor that prioritizes wearability, acknowledging that a professional instrument must first and foremost be comfortable during extended periods of operation.
One of the most striking visual elements of the Red Lion Mk II is the execution of the dial, which utilizes a matte black surface to absorb light and eliminate glare—a critical feature for any watch tracing its lineage to aviation. The layout features a bi-compax arrangement, but with a distinct asymmetry that enthusiasts will immediately recognize as the "Big Eye" configuration. The 30-minute counter located at the 3 o'clock position is significantly larger than the running seconds sub-dial at 9 o'clock. This design choice is not purely stylistic; it is rooted in historical functionality, where the legibility of elapsed minutes was often more critical to a pilot than the running seconds. To further enhance this readability, the minute counter hand is tipped in a vibrant red, contrasting sharply against the monochrome dial and allowing for instant recognition of the stopwatch status.
Courtesy of Hanhart
Surrounding the dial is a bidirectional rotating bezel constructed from stainless steel, featuring a coin-edge profile that ensures a positive grip even for gloved hands. Unlike a traditional diving bezel marked in 60-minute increments, this bezel is calibrated with a 12-hour scale. This seemingly simple modification unlocks a powerful functionality known as "GMT-light." By rotating the bezel to offset the hour hand against a second time zone, the wearer can track home time or a destination time without the mechanical complexity and added thickness of a dedicated GMT movement. The bezel operates with a precision 24-click mechanism, allowing for half-hour offsets, a thoughtful detail that accommodates time zones with 30-minute deviations. This feature transforms the watch from a simple chronograph into a capable travel tool, perfectly aligning with the "Urban Gentry" ethos of versatility.
The typography used for the Arabic numerals is crisp, white, and generously coated with Super-LumiNova C1 X2, ensuring that the watch remains legible in low-light conditions. The choice of the historic Hanhart logo at the 12 o'clock position anchors the watch in its heritage, reminding the wearer of the brand's long-standing history in the Black Forest region of Germany. A date window is discreetly positioned at 6 o'clock, maintaining the vertical symmetry of the dial. While date windows on chronographs can often be contentious among purists, this integration is handled with restraint, offering necessary daily utility without disrupting the flow of the primary timekeeping elements. The hands are syringe-style, further reinforcing the vintage military vibe, and are filled with the same high-grade luminescent material as the hour markers.
Courtesy of Hanhart
Protruding from the side of the case is perhaps the most iconic feature associated with the Hanhart brand: the red pusher. Located at the 4 o'clock position, this pusher resets the chronograph mechanism. The lore surrounding this distinct design element is rich with romance, with legends speaking of a pilot whose lover painted the button with red nail polish as a reminder of her affection before he flew into combat. However, the pragmatic reality is equally compelling; the red color served as a visual warning to pilots to avoid accidentally resetting the stopwatch while navigating. On the Red Lion Mk II, this pusher is crafted from HyCeram, a hybrid ceramic-polymer composite that offers the scratch resistance and color stability of ceramic combined with the shatter resistance of high-performance plastics. It is a tactile touchpoint that connects the modern wearer to the history of aviation safety protocols.
Internally, the Red Lion Mk II is powered by the impressive AMT5100 M, a manually wound movement derived from the Sellita architecture but significantly modified by their Manufacture AMT department. The decision to use a manual wind movement is significant, as it fosters a daily ritual of interaction between the owner and the machine. This caliber features a column-wheel mechanism, which provides a tactile crispness to the start, stop, and reset actions that cam-actuated chronographs often lack. Furthermore, it boasts a flyback function, a sophisticated complication that allows the user to reset and restart the chronograph with a single press of the reset pusher. In an aviation context, this allowed pilots to instantly restart timing for consecutive navigation legs without the three-step stop-reset-start sequence.
The movement is not hidden away but is proudly displayed through a screw-down sapphire crystal case back. The view reveals a level of finishing that exceeds standard utility grades, with Geneva stripes and blued screws adding a layer of visual depth. A unique detail specific to this collaboration is the "Gentry Labs Watermark" which is printed on the inside of the sapphire glass. This ghosted logo floats above the movement, visible when the light catches it at the right angle, serving as a subtle signature of the partnership without obstructing the view of the mechanics. The movement beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offers a robust power reserve of 58 hours, ensuring that the watch will continue running even if left off the wrist for a couple of days.
Courtesy of Hanhart
Hanhart has ensured that the precision of this timepiece matches its rugged aesthetics. Each movement is adjusted within the Hanhart manufactory to a tolerance of 0 to +8 seconds per day. This regulation process demonstrates a commitment to chronometric performance, ensuring that the Red Lion Mk II is not merely a jewelry item but a reliable timekeeping instrument. The watch is also rated for water resistance up to 10 bar (100 meters), a specification that adds to its "go anywhere, do anything" capability. While it is not a dive watch, this rating ensures it can withstand swimming, rain, and the rigors of daily life without the wearer needing to fear moisture ingress.
The Red Lion Mk II is offered with two distinct mounting options, each changing the character of the watch. The first is a solid stainless steel bracelet, which features a three-link design with a brushed finish that matches the case. The bracelet utilizes a folding clasp and gives the watch a substantial, integrated feel, turning it into a piece of jewelry that can transition from casual to semi-formal settings. The end links are fitted precisely to the case, eliminating unsightly gaps and ensuring a cohesive silhouette. For those who prefer the weight of steel, this option provides a reassuring solidity on the wrist.
Alternatively, the watch can be paired with a black FKM rubber strap. FKM, or fluoroelastomer, is a high-performance synthetic rubber used extensively in the aerospace and automotive industries for its resistance to heat, oils, and chemicals. Unlike cheaper silicone straps that can attract lint and degrade over time, FKM remains supple and durable even in harsh environments. The strap features a tropic-style texture, a nod to the dive watches of the 1960s, which facilitates airflow and drainage. This option highlights the sporting nature of the chronograph and significantly reduces the overall weight, making it an excellent choice for active wear or warmer climates.
Courtesy of Hanhart
The versatility of the drilled lugs means that owners can also easily swap in third-party straps, such as NATO nylons or vintage leathers, further customizing the look to their personal preference. This adaptability is central to the appeal of the Red Lion Mk II; it is a chameleon that looks equally at home on a worn leather aviator strap as it does on high-tech rubber or steel. The 20mm lug width is a standard size, opening up a vast universe of aftermarket options for the collector who enjoys experimenting with different combinations.
In terms of availability and pricing, the Hanhart x Gentry Labs Red Lion Mk II is positioned as a premium offering within the brand's catalog, reflecting the specialized nature of the movement and the limited production run. The version on the stainless steel bracelet is priced at approximately $4,510, while the variant on the FKM rubber strap comes in slightly lower at roughly $4,208. These prices reflect the inclusion of the advanced flyback column-wheel caliber, the HyCeram technology, and the high standard of German manufacturing. With only 200 pieces available worldwide, the watch represents a rare opportunity to own a specific vision of horological history, one that honors the past while firmly embracing the material and mechanical advancements of the present.
Case: Satin and polished stainless steel construction, 39mm diameter, 13.60mm height, 46mm lug-to-lug length. Bidirectional rotating 12-hour stainless steel bezel with 24 clicks. Red HyCeram pusher. Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides. Screw-down sapphire crystal display back. Water resistant to 10 bar (100m).
Movement: Sellita AMT5100 M manual wind manufacture caliber. Column wheel chronograph with flyback function. 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). 23 jewels. 58-hour power reserve. Precision adjusted to 0 to +8 seconds per day.
Dial: Matte black surface with white Arabic numerals coated in Super-LumiNova C1 X2. "Big Eye" 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock with red-tipped hand. Small seconds at 9 o'clock. Date display at 6 o'clock. Historic Hanhart logo.
Strap: Available with solid stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp or black FKM fluoroelastomer rubber strap with pin buckle. Lug width 20mm.
Price: $4,510 (Stainless Steel Bracelet); $4,208 (Rubber Strap)
Reference Number: H704L.210-6428 (Stainless Steel Bracelet); H704L.210-1010 (Rubber Strap)
Notes: Limited edition of 200 pieces worldwide. Collaboration between Hanhart, TGV (The Urban Gentry), and Gentry Labs. Features "GMT-light" tracking via the 12-hour bezel. Gentry Labs watermark integrated into the sapphire display back glass.