Hanhart has a reputation that is deeply cemented in the stark, utilitarian aesthetic of military aviation, often characterized by matte black dials and heavy-duty leather straps designed for the wrist of a pilot in a cold cockpit. However, the release of the new 417 ES Moby Dick 39mm marks a fascinating pivot, bringing a "civilian" interpretation to a design that has largely been defined by its service history. This watch represents a return to a very specific and incredibly rare moment in the brand's archives, reviving the white-dialed chronograph that was once a scarce anomaly in a sea of black-dialed instrument watches. It is a piece that manages to retain the formidable functionality of the original 417 ES while presenting a face that feels significantly more approachable and, dare I say, sophisticated for daily wear in a non-military setting.
The story behind the name "Moby Dick" is one of those charming quirks of the watch collecting community that eventually becomes canon. It wasn't a designation found in a catalog from the 1950s, nor was it a code name used by the factory in Gütenbach. Instead, the moniker emerged organically among vintage enthusiasts who spent years hunting for the elusive white-dialed variants of the 417. Much like Captain Ahab’s obsession with the white whale in Herman Melville’s novel, collectors found themselves chasing these ghosts of the market. The white dial was a deviation from the norm, originally intended for medical officers, naval personnel, or technical professionals who needed the precision of a chronograph but operated outside the strict visual codes of the air force. By adopting this nickname officially,
Hanhart acknowledges the passion of its fanbase and the lore that keeps the vintage market vibrant.
Courtesy of Hanhart
Visually, the watch strikes you immediately with its clarity. The shift from a black negative space to a bright, matte white surface completely transforms the personality of the bi-compax layout. When you look at the dial, the first thing that grabs your attention is the breathing room; the two sub-dials at three and nine o'clock don't feel crowded, and the printed numerals seem to float with a crisp sharpness. This is a watch that was designed to be read quickly, perhaps not in the dark of a night raid, but certainly in the bright, harsh lighting of a laboratory or a cockpit under the midday sun. The decision to use Old Radium-colored Super-LumiNova on the numerals adds a layer of warmth to the cold white background, preventing the watch from looking too sterile or clinical.
The true highlight of this visual package, however, is undoubtedly the handset. Hanhart has opted for thermally blued hands, a traditional technique that offers a dynamic visual experience depending on the ambient lighting. In low light or shadow, the hands can appear almost black, maintaining a high-contrast look against the dial. But when the light catches them at the right angle, they flash a vibrant, electric cornflower blue that feels alive. This interplay of light is something that painted hands simply cannot replicate; it speaks to a level of manufacturing care where the steel is heated to a precise temperature to achieve that specific oxidation color. It is a detail that rewards the wearer for taking a second look, adding a touch of flair to an otherwise strictly functional tool.
Surrounding this high-contrast dial is the signature fluted bezel, a hallmark of Hanhart’s design language that has survived decades of changing trends. The fluting is not just for show; it offers a tactile grip that allows the wearer to rotate the bezel bi-directionally with ease. On the Moby Dick, the traditional red marker—often seen on the black 417 ES models—has been replaced with an ivory-colored insert. This is a subtle but critical design choice. A bright red stripe would have clashed aggressively with the blued hands and the white dial, disrupting the "civilian" harmony of the piece. The ivory insert matches the lume on the dial perfectly, creating a cohesive aesthetic that feels intentional and balanced. It still functions as a timing tool, allowing you to mark a start time, but it does so without shouting.
The case dimensions are a faithful nod to the past, coming in at a very wearable 39mm diameter. In an era where modern chronographs often bloat beyond 42mm, the restraint shown here is refreshing. The 39mm size sits in that "Goldilocks" zone for a wide variety of wrist sizes, offering enough presence to feel like a tool watch but enough compactness to slide under a shirt cuff. The lug-to-lug distance of 46mm further aids this wearability, ensuring the watch doesn't overhang on smaller wrists. The finishing on the stainless steel case is a mix of satin-brushed surfaces and high-gloss polished facets, particularly on the bevels of the lugs. This combination serves to slim down the visual profile of the watch, breaking up the metal and catching the light in a way that emphasizes the architectural lines of the case.
Courtesy of Hanhart
One cannot discuss a vintage-inspired chronograph without addressing the profile and the crystal. The Moby Dick is fitted with a highly domed sapphire crystal that mimics the curvature of the acrylic plexiglass found on the original 1950s models. This dome is responsible for much of the watch's 13.6mm total height, but because the crystal accounts for a portion of that measurement, the actual steel case sidewall is slimmer than the specs suggest (around 11.55mm). The result is a watch that has the charm and distortion of vintage glass but with the scratch resistance and clarity of modern sapphire. It also features an internal anti-reflective coating, which is crucial for a white-dialed watch where glare can sometimes be an issue.
Under the hood, the Moby Dick is powered by the Sellita SW 510 M, a manual-wound movement that is robust, reliable, and easy to service. The choice of a manual-wind caliber is essential for a watch of this heritage. The daily ritual of winding the crown connects the owner to the machine in a physical way that an automatic rotor simply cannot. It forces a moment of interaction every morning, a reminder of the mechanical nature of the object on your wrist. The movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a substantial power reserve of 58 hours, meaning you can skip a day of winding without the watch dying on you. Hanhart has also ensured that the pushers are symmetrically spaced, maintaining the balanced silhouette of the case.
Despite its vintage appearance, the technical specifications of the Moby Dick are thoroughly modern, particularly regarding durability. The original 1950s models were fragile things by today's standards, especially when it came to water resistance. This new iteration boasts a water resistance rating of 10 bar (approximately 100 meters), making it a true "go anywhere, do anything" chronograph. You wouldn't hesitate to take this swimming, which is something you certainly couldn't say about the vintage examples. This upgrades the watch from a delicate collector's item to a robust daily companion that doesn't need to be babied when the weather turns or when you're active.
Furthermore, Hanhart has integrated significant protection against invisible threats. The case features an inner soft iron core that shields the movement from magnetic fields up to 16,000 A/m. In our modern environment, which is saturated with magnets from laptops, phone cases, and speakers, magnetism is one of the most common causes of a watch running poorly. By shielding the hairspring, Hanhart ensures that the Moby Dick keeps time reliably even in a tech-heavy office environment. Additionally, the movement is shock-protected with Hanhart's own damping system, providing peace of mind that a sudden knock against a doorframe won't send the balance wheel into chaos.
Courtesy of Hanhart
The dial layout itself deserves a closer examination for its "bi-compax" symmetry. The small seconds sub-dial sits at nine o'clock, while the 30-minute counter resides at three o'clock. The absence of a 12-hour counter or a date window keeps the dial incredibly clean and focused. The sub-dials are slightly recessed, adding a layer of depth and texture to the face. The concentric circular graining inside these sub-dials contrasts nicely with the matte finish of the main dial, catching the light differently and making them easy to distinguish at a glance. The typography used for the numerals is historically accurate, with the distinct open "6" and flat-top "4" that fans of the brand will instantly recognize.
Legibility is further enhanced by the careful application of the Super-LumiNova. While the "Light Old Radium" color gives a vintage vibe during the day, it glows effectively in low-light conditions. The hands are generously filled, and the hour markers stand out clearly against the dark. Even the small sub-dial hands are legible. It is a testament to the fact that, despite the "civilian" branding, this is still a pilot's chronograph at heart, where readability is a non-negotiable requirement. The removal of the red accents found on the military versions essentially "demilitarizes" the watch without stripping it of its utility.
The case back of the Moby Dick is solid stainless steel, screwed down to ensure that 100-meter water resistance. It features the historic Hanhart logo and the consecutive serial number of the watch. While some might lament the lack of a display back to see the movement, the solid back is historically correct and contributes to the anti-magnetic properties of the watch (a display back would break the Faraday cage created by the soft iron core). It feels solid and reassuring against the skin, and the engraving is deep and precise. It’s a functional case back for a functional watch.
When it comes to strapping this watch to your wrist, Hanhart offers two distinct personalities. The first option is a leather strap, available in light brown, dark brown, or black. These straps are crafted from cowhide and feature white stitching that complements the dial perfectly. The leather is supple and thick, reinforced near the lugs, and lacks the rivets found on the more aggressive pilot straps, keeping with the cleaner, civilian look. On leather, the watch feels warm, classic, and slightly dressier. It plays up the vintage scholar or field engineer vibe, making it appropriate for business casual attire or weekend wear.
Courtesy of Hanhart
Alternatively, the watch can be purchased on a stainless steel bracelet. This transforms the Moby Dick into a much sportier proposition. The bracelet is fully satin-finished to match the lugs, with a simple, robust link design that doesn't distract from the watch head. It gives the watch a bit more heft and presence, turning it into a piece that feels ready for more rugged adventures. The bracelet integrates flush with the case, and the clasp features the historic logo. Choosing the bracelet option essentially future-proofs the watch for summer wear or humid climates where leather might be uncomfortable.
The versatility of the 39mm size combined with the white dial cannot be overstated. White dial chronographs are notoriously difficult to get right; they can often look too large because white reflects more light than black, visually expanding the object. However, the fluted bezel acts as a frame that contains the dial, and the compact lug-to-lug length ensures it remains grounded on the wrist. It wears distinctly smaller than a 41mm or 42mm Speedmaster, sitting high but compact, like a true vintage instrument. It avoids the "dinner plate" effect that plagues many modern white-dialed sports watches.
Hanhart’s dedication to accuracy is also worth noting in this release. They don't just drop a stock movement in and ship it; every single unit is tested and regulated in their manufacture in Gütenbach. Their internal tolerance is 0 to +8 seconds per day, which is a tight standard that ensures you won't be losing time. They explicitly disallow any negative deviation in the main positions. This attention to rate stability is what separates a generic assembler from a true manufacture with a history of timing sports and military operations. It adds a layer of trust that the pretty face is backed up by serious engineering.
The sheer tactile quality of the Hanhart 417 ES Moby Dick is a major selling point. From the resistance of the crown as you wind the mainspring to the crisp "click" of the chronograph pushers, everything feels mechanical and deliberate. The bezel action is smooth but firm, holding its position without being ratcheted. These sensory details contribute to the ownership experience, reinforcing the idea that you are wearing a piece of machinery rather than just a fashion accessory. The absence of "rotor wobble" (since it's a manual wind) makes the watch feel dense and solid on the wrist.
In the landscape of modern horology, where "vintage inspiration" often just means "faking patina," the Moby Dick feels authentic. This is largely because the design isn't a pastiche of random elements; it is a one-to-one recreation of a legitimate, albeit rare, historical model. The "fauxtina" on the lume serves a design purpose here—matching the ivory bezel insert—rather than just trying to look old. The watch acknowledges its history without being trapped by it, upgrading the materials and build quality to meet contemporary expectations of luxury and durability.
Courtesy of Hanhart
The distinction between "military" and "civil" in the watch world is often blurred, but here it serves as a guiding design philosophy. The military 417 ES is aggressive, dark, and stealthy. The Moby Dick is bright, open, and optimistic. It suggests the golden age of civil aviation and exploration, rather than combat. It is a watch for the navigator, the engineer, or the traveler. This narrative shift allows Hanhart to reach a different audience, one that appreciates the history of the brand but perhaps finds the standard black pilot's chronograph a bit too severe for their personal style.
For those looking to acquire this piece of history, the Hanhart 417 ES Moby Dick 39mm is priced to compete aggressively in the mid-tier luxury market. The version on the leather strap comes in at approximately $3,214, offering a classic entry point. For those who prefer the durability and weight of metal, the version on the steel bracelet is priced around $3,522. Given the specifications—the Swiss manual-wind movement, the German case manufacturing, the anti-magnetic shielding, and the unique history—it presents a strong value proposition for collectors and enthusiasts alike. It is available now, finally bringing the legend of the Moby Dick out of the auction houses and onto the wrists of the public.
Case: Stainless steel, satin/polished finish, 39mm diameter, 13.6mm height (11.55mm without crystal), 46mm lug-to-lug; antimagnetic case core up to 16,000 A/m; fluted bi-directional rotating bezel with ivory Super-LumiNova insert; convex sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating; screwed stainless steel case back with historic logo; water resistant to 10 bar (10 ATM).
Movement: Manual winding Sellita SW 510 M; 28,800 A/h (4 Hz), 23 stones; 58-hour power reserve; bi-compax chronograph with central stop second, 30-minute counter, and small second; Hanhart movement damping shock protection; regulated to 0 to +8 seconds per day.
Dial: White dial with historical logo and bi-compax layout; historical font numerals coated with Super-LumiNova Light Old Radium GL; thermally blued hands.
Strap: Available on satin-finished stainless steel bracelet or cowhide leather (black, light brown, or dark brown) without rivets; 20mm lug width.
Price: $3,522 (Steel Bracelet) / $3,214 (Leather Strap)
Reference Number: H701.202-6428 (Bracelet) / H701.202 (Leather Strap)
Notes: Re-issue of the rare "Moby Dick" civil white-dial version of the 1950s 417 ES; nickname derived from collectors due to the rarity of original white dial models; hands are thermally blued rather than painted.