Girard-Perregaux Laureato Infinite Grey

Girard-Perregaux has introduced a new iteration of its celebrated Laureato collection, the Laureato 42mm Infinite Grey. This model continues the lineage established in 1975, blending a recognized design with a dial crafted using an ancient artistic technique. The result is a timepiece that presents a familiar silhouette while offering a unique and deeply textured visual experience, rooted in the Manufacture's extensive history of watchmaking and artisanal crafts.



The history of Girard-Perregaux provides the foundation upon which a watch like the Infinite Grey is built. Established in 1791, the brand was a trailblazer, championing the concept of an integrated manufacture where all aspects of watch creation were housed under one roof. This holistic approach to watchmaking has been a defining characteristic for over two centuries, allowing for a seamless fusion of technical development and aesthetic design. This philosophy has yielded significant contributions to horology, demonstrating a consistent drive for innovation.



Throughout its existence, Girard-Perregaux has marked its path with groundbreaking achievements. The Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, first presented in 1867, was a revolutionary concept that transformed a functional part of the movement into a primary aesthetic element. In 1965, the brand pushed the boundaries of precision with its High Frequency movement, operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour. A few years later, in 1971, Girard-Perregaux was instrumental in setting the universal frequency for quartz movements at 32,768 Hz, a standard that persists today. More recently, the Constant Escapement of 2013, which won the prestigious Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, showcased a novel approach to delivering consistent energy to the regulator.



The Laureato itself was born in this environment of technical and design-forward thinking. Launched in 1975, it entered the scene during a pivotal decade for watch design, when the concept of the luxury sports watch in steel was gaining prominence. The Laureato's design was distinctive from the start, characterized by its unique octagonal bezel. This shape was not without precedent in the brand's history; it drew inspiration from the 14-sided bezel of the 1969 Deep Diver model, illustrating a clear design lineage within the Manufacture. The Laureato’s combination of sporty architecture and refined finishing captured the spirit of the era and established a new pillar for the brand.



The Laureato 42mm Infinite Grey carries this legacy forward in a stainless steel case that measures a contemporary 42mm in diameter and a relatively slim 10.68mm in thickness. The case construction is a study in geometric harmony, a signature of the Laureato line. The polished octagonal bezel sits atop a circular plinth, which in turn is integrated into a tonneau-shaped case body. This layering of shapes creates a dynamic visual effect, catching and reflecting light in multiple ways.



This play of light is further accentuated by the meticulous finishing applied to the case and the integrated bracelet. The surfaces feature a sophisticated alternation between satin-brushed and polished finishes. The flat surfaces of the bezel and case are typically brushed, providing a soft, matte look, while the beveled edges are polished to a mirror-like shine. This contrast highlights the crisp lines and complex geometry of the case, adding a sense of visual depth and complexity that elevates the watch beyond a simple tool.



The integrated steel bracelet is a core component of the Laureato's identity, flowing seamlessly from the case to create a cohesive and ergonomic feel on the wrist. The links are broad and H-shaped, with a brushed finish that is complemented by smaller, polished center links. This design not only contributes to the watch's distinctive aesthetic but is also engineered for comfort, draping smoothly around the wrist. The bracelet is secured with a steel triple-folding buckle, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit.



At the center of the Infinite Grey model is its most defining feature: the Grand Feu enamel dial. This element elevates the timepiece by employing an artisanal technique that is centuries old and notoriously difficult to master. The choice of Grand Feu, or "great fire," enamel speaks to Girard-Perregaux's commitment to preserving and utilizing high-level craft within its modern collections. The resulting dial is not merely colored but possesses a unique depth and luminosity that cannot be replicated by modern lacquering or plating methods.



The creation of this dial is an exacting and unpredictable process, performed in-house. It begins with a powder composed of silica, minium, potash, and soda. This base is mixed with various metal oxides to achieve the specific, nuanced grey hue with its subtle bluish undertones. This powdered mixture is carefully applied to the metal dial base and then fired in a special kiln at temperatures reaching approximately 800 degrees Celsius. This process is repeated between five and ten times, with each firing fusing the enamel into a glass-like surface and deepening its color.



The inherent difficulty of the Grand Feu technique lies in its high failure rate. The extreme temperatures can cause the dial to crack, bubble, or develop imperfections in color. A significant number of dials are rejected during the production process. However, those that successfully emerge from the kiln are masterpieces of the craft. Their surface is exceptionally hard, and the color is permanently set, making it impervious to fading or aging from exposure to UV light. The surface possesses a flawless, radiant quality that is both visually striking and permanent.



Beneath the translucent layers of grey enamel lies another layer of artisanal detail. The dial base is engraved with a sunray flinqué motif. This technique involves engine-turning a precise, radiating pattern onto the metal before the enameling process begins. As the translucent enamel is applied and fired over this engraving, the pattern remains visible, creating a captivating effect. The sunray motif appears to move and shimmer as the watch is tilted in the light, adding a sense of dynamism and depth that interacts beautifully with the glossy enamel surface.



The dial is furnished with rhodium-plated, baton-style hands and applied hour markers. These elements are clean and legible, filled with luminescent material for visibility in low light. The iconic "GP" logo is also applied in rhodium-plated metal below the 12 o'clock position. A subtle but significant detail is the central seconds hand, which features a counterweight designed in the shape of the Girard-Perregaux Gold Bridge, a direct nod to the brand's most famous and historic movement architecture. At the 3 o’clock position, a date aperture is cleanly cut, featuring white numerals on a disc that is color-matched to the grey dial, ensuring a harmonious and integrated appearance.



Flipping the watch over reveals the mechanical heart of the Laureato Infinite Grey through a sapphire crystal case-back. The timepiece is powered by the Calibre GP01800, an in-house automatic movement. This calibre is entirely designed, developed, produced, and assembled at the Girard-Perregaux Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a testament to the brand's capabilities as a true integrated watchmaker. The movement is relatively slender, measuring just 3.97mm in height, which contributes to the watch's wearable overall thickness of 10.68mm.



The technical specifications of the Calibre GP01800 are robust and modern. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), which is the contemporary standard for providing a good balance between accuracy and longevity. The movement is constructed from 191 individual components and includes 28 jewels to reduce friction at key points. When fully wound, it provides a minimum power reserve of 54 hours, allowing the watch to run for over two days off the wrist without stopping. The winding is automatic and occurs in the clockwise direction via the motion of the wearer's wrist.



The view through the case-back is not merely functional but is a display of high watchmaking finishing, reflecting Girard-Perregaux's rigorous standards. The most prominent feature is the oscillating weight, or rotor, which is crafted from solid pink gold. The use of a heavy metal like gold increases winding efficiency. This weight is decorated with a circular Côtes de Genève pattern, a classic form of Swiss watch decoration. The bridges of the movement are adorned with straight Côtes de Genève, while the main plate features circular graining, also known as perlage.



Further details within the movement underscore its quality. The screw heads are polished to a mirror finish, and the edges of the bridges and plates are beveled and polished, a technique known as anglage. These finishing techniques are not necessary for the function of the watch but are hallmarks of traditional Haute Horlogerie, requiring significant time and skill to execute. They demonstrate a respect for tradition and an attention to detail that extends to the parts of the watch that are not always visible.



The overall presentation of the Laureato Infinite Grey is one of balanced contradiction. It is a sports watch by heritage and design, with its robust steel construction, integrated bracelet, and 100 meters of water resistance. This makes it a practical choice for daily wear and capable of handling a variety of situations. Yet, the centerpiece of the watch is an exquisitely crafted enamel dial, a feature more commonly associated with delicate dress watches. This combination of rugged architecture and refined artistry gives the watch a unique character.



It is a timepiece that respects its own history while confidently asserting a modern presence. The 42mm case size is contemporary and provides ample space for the dial's details to be appreciated, while the slim profile ensures it remains comfortable and unobtrusive on the wrist. The interplay between the industrial feel of the brushed steel and the deep, lustrous, and handmade quality of the dial creates a compelling narrative of craft and capability. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Infinite Grey is priced at $17,900 USD.



Case: Stainless steel construction, 42 mm diameter, 10.68 mm thickness. Features a sapphire crystal case-back and offers 100 m of water resistance.

Movement: In-house automatic Calibre GP01800. Diameter of 30 mm, height of 3.97 mm. Beats at a frequency of 28,800 Vib/h (4 Hz). Composed of 191 parts with 28 jewels. Features a pink gold oscillating weight and a minimum power reserve of 54 hours. Functions include hours, minutes, and date.

Dial: Grey Grand Feu enamel with a flinqué sunray motif. Features a rhodium-plated applied GP logo and indexes.

Strap: Integrated stainless steel bracelet with a steel triple-folding buckle.

Price: USD 17,900

Reference Number: 81010-11-3475-1CM

Notes: The dial is crafted using the demanding Grand Feu enamel technique, which makes it exceptionally durable and resistant to fading. This model will be available worldwide from June 23rd, 2025.