A notable collaboration in the sphere of horology has emerged with the introduction of the
Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex Crazy Power Reserve Orologi & Passioni 20th Anniversary timepiece. This watch is not merely a commemorative item; it represents a confluence of distinctive design, mechanical ingenuity, and community engagement, celebrating two decades of Italy's foremost watchmaking forum, Orologi & Passioni. Limited to a highly exclusive run of twenty-one units, this model underscores a dedication to intricate craftsmanship and a unique aesthetic sensibility that has long characterized the Franck Muller name.
Franck Muller, often dubbed the "Master of Complications," established his eponymous brand in 1991, bringing a fresh and audacious perspective to the traditional world of Swiss watchmaking. From the outset, the manufacture distinguished itself with its bold case shapes, particularly the Cintrée Curvex, and its innovative, often whimsical, complications. Muller's vision was to blend avant-garde design with high mechanical complexity, creating timepieces that were instantly recognizable and technically proficient. This philosophy has driven the brand to develop numerous in-house movements and to consistently push the boundaries of horological expression, earning it a dedicated following among enthusiasts who appreciate both its technical achievements and its distinctive visual identity. The brand's Genthod manufacture, Watchland, serves as a testament to this commitment, housing all stages of production from initial design to final assembly.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
The partner in this celebratory endeavor, Orologi & Passioni, stands as a significant institution within the Italian, and indeed European, watch community. With approximately 114,000 members and a vast archive of discussions and information, it has become a vital hub for collectors, enthusiasts, and experts. The forum's influence extends beyond online discussions, having previously collaborated with prestigious watchmaking brands on limited edition pieces. This project with Franck Muller is the fifth such venture in Orologi & Passioni's "Oltremare" collection, signifying a deep mutual respect and a shared passion for the art of mechanical watchmaking. The co-creation process, involving members of the Orologi & Passioni community, imbues this limited edition with a unique sense of collective enthusiasm and direct enthusiast input.
At the core of this anniversary model is Franck Muller’s iconic Cintrée Curvex case. Introduced early in the brand's history, the Cintrée Curvex silhouette, with its tonneau shape perfectly curved on all axes, revolutionized watch design. It offers an ergonomic fit on the wrist while providing a distinctive and voluminous canvas for Franck Muller's expressive dials. This shape is not merely a design choice but a complex feat of engineering, requiring precise manufacturing to achieve its seamless contours. The Cintrée Curvex has become synonymous with the Franck Muller identity, embodying a blend of classic form and modern dynamism. For this Orologi & Passioni edition, the case is rendered in stainless steel, meticulously hand-polished to accentuate its flowing lines and sophisticated profile.
The specific dimensions of the Cintrée Curvex case for this anniversary model are a width of 36 mm, a length of 50.4 mm, and a thickness of 11.6 mm. These proportions ensure a significant presence on the wrist, yet the carefully studied curvature allows it to conform comfortably. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, offering scratch resistance and clarity. The case is rated for water resistance up to 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear and protecting it from minor splashes, though it is not intended for aquatic activities. The overall construction speaks to a robust yet refined housing for the intricate mechanics within.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
The dial of the Cintrée Curvex Crazy Power Reserve is a focal point of artistic execution. It features a stamped guilloché decoration with a sunray pattern, a traditional technique that imparts texture and a captivating play of light. This pattern radiates from the center, creating a sense of depth and dynamism as light conditions change. The dial is finished in a
Deep Blue hue named "Oltremare," a specific choice likely resonating with the Italian origins of Orologi & Passioni and the "Oltremare" collection. This rich blue is further enhanced by the application of an astonishing 25 layers of lacquer, a meticulous process that results in a surface of remarkable brilliance and visual depth, making the blue appear almost liquid.
Contrasting vividly against the deep blue backdrop are the signature Franck Muller numerals. These are hand-applied and presented in white, ensuring excellent legibility. The distinctive, somewhat whimsical Arabic numerals are a hallmark of the Cintrée Curvex collection, their unique design contributing significantly to the watch's immediate recognizability. Their application by hand underscores the artisanal dedication involved in the creation of each piece, adding a human touch to the precision-engineered timepiece. The careful balance of the guilloché, the profound blue lacquer, and the crisp white numerals results in a dial that is both visually striking and a testament to detailed craftsmanship.
A particularly intriguing aspect of this timepiece is its "Crazy Power Reserve" feature. The power reserve indicator is unconventionally positioned on the dial, nestled between the 10 and 11 o'clock numerals. This placement is deliberately asymmetrical and playful, a characteristic often associated with Franck Muller's "Crazy" collections, which are known for their unorthodox displays of time or other functions. This detail injects a sense of individuality and innovation into the watch, moving beyond purely functional indication to become a distinct design element that engages the wearer.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
Driving this anniversary edition is the in-house MVT FM 1701 R1, a manually wound movement that showcases Franck Muller's capabilities as a manufacture. One of its most significant attributes is its impressive 7-day power reserve. This extended running autonomy is made possible through the incorporation of a double barrel system, allowing the watch to maintain its precision for a full week between windings. Such a feature is highly practical for the wearer and reflects a sophisticated approach to movement construction. The movement comprises 225 components, a testament to its complexity.
The MVT FM 1701 R1 operates at a balance wheel frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), a traditional cadence often favored for its contribution to longevity and stable chronometric performance. The movement's dimensions are a diameter of 32 mm and a thickness of 5 mm, making it a relatively slim calibre despite its substantial power reserve capabilities. The choice of a manual winding movement further connects the wearer to the watch, requiring regular interaction that many horological purists appreciate.
The finishing of the MVT FM 1701 R1 is executed to a high standard, indicative of fine watchmaking tradition. Although a solid caseback might be expected by some to maintain case integrity, high-end pieces often feature exhibition backs, and the description of detailed movement decoration implies it's meant to be seen. The bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève, a classic wave-like pattern. The regulator assembly receives mirror polishing, while the mainplate is decorated with perlage (circular graining). Further embellishments include beveling on the regulator assembly and bridges, diamond polishing on the sinks, sunray brushing on the bearing cage, snailing on the ratchets, and circular satin brushing on the wheels and barrel cover. These intricate finishes, meticulously applied by skilled artisans, not only enhance the aesthetic appeal of the movement but also speak to the quality and care invested in its production.
Complementing the striking case and dial is a strap crafted from alligator leather. This choice of material is common in luxury watchmaking, prized for its sophisticated texture and durability. While the color is not explicitly stated for the strap, one might anticipate a blue alligator strap to harmonize with the "Oltremare" blue dial, further unifying the watch's aesthetic. The strap is secured with a stainless steel buckle, presumably engraved with the Franck Muller branding, providing a secure and comfortable fit on the wrist.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
The creation of the Cintrée Curvex Crazy Power Reserve Orologi & Passioni 20th Anniversary is more than a product launch; it is described as a celebration of shared values. It highlights a meeting point between Franck Muller's horological expertise and the profound appreciation for fine watchmaking fostered by the Orologi & Passioni community. This collaborative effort brings together creativity, a respect for horological heritage, and a commitment to technical excellence, resulting in a timepiece that carries meaning for both the brand and the enthusiasts it was co-created with. The direct involvement of community members in the genesis of this watch is a modern approach that strengthens the bond between maker and collector.
The exclusivity of this model is a key aspect of its allure. With only 20+1 pieces being produced (the "+1" often signifying a piece for an archive or a special contributor), it is destined to be a rare sight. This scarcity inherently makes it a sought-after item for dedicated Franck Muller collectors and members of the Orologi & Passioni community who have been part of its journey. Such limited editions often carry a special significance that goes beyond their material qualities, representing a specific moment or relationship in the horological landscape.
The "Crazy" nomenclature in Franck Muller's collections typically hints at a departure from convention. While the famed "Crazy Hours" complication features jumbled hour numerals that the hour hand jumps to, the "Crazy Power Reserve" here refers to the idiosyncratic and playful placement of its indicator. This aligns with the brand’s spirit of innovation and individuality, demonstrating that even a traditional complication like a power reserve can be reinterpreted with a creative flourish, making the watch distinctive and memorable.
Functionally, the timepiece offers hours, minutes, and seconds, all displayed with the clarity expected from a Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex dial. The prominent power reserve indicator, located as mentioned between 10 and 11 o'clock, provides a clear visual cue of the movement's remaining energy. The crown is a dual-position type: the first position is for winding the manual movement, and the second is for setting the time. This straightforward functionality ensures ease of use, allowing the aesthetic and mechanical features to remain the focus.
Courtesy of Franck Muller
This watch embodies a character that is both bold in its design innovation and deeply rooted in mechanical artistry. It successfully merges the heritage of the Cintrée Curvex form and traditional finishing techniques with a contemporary, almost maverick, approach to certain design elements like the power reserve display. It is a piece that communicates creativity and a dedication to the finer points of watchmaking, appealing to those who seek out horological creations that offer more than just timekeeping.
For those interested in acquiring this special edition, the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex Crazy Power Reserve Orologi & Passioni 20th Anniversary is priced at EUR 17,000. Given the extremely limited production run of just twenty-one pieces, availability is inherently restricted. This exclusivity ensures that each piece will be a prized possession for the fortunate few who can secure one, representing a distinct chapter in the stories of both Franck Muller and Orologi & Passioni.
Case: Stainless Steel Cintrée Curvex; Width: 36 mm, Length: 50.4 mm, Thickness: 11.6 mm; Hand polished; Sapphire crystal; Water resistant up to 30 meters.
Movement: In-House MVT FM 1701 R1 (also referenced as MVT FM 1702 in function list); Manually wound; 7 days power reserve; 225 components; Diameter: Ø 32 mm, Thickness: 5 mm; Balance wheel frequency: 18,000 vph; Double barrel system; Decorations include Côtes de Genève, perlage, mirror polishing.
Dial: Stamped guilloché with sunray pattern; Deep blue "Oltremare" color; 25 layers of lacquer; White hand-applied numerals.
Strap: Alligator strap; Stainless steel buckle.
Price: EUR 17,000.
Reference Number: 7885 B S6 PR 05 O AND P.
Notes: Limited edition of 20+1 pieces; Created for the 20th Anniversary of Orologi & Passioni; Features an unconventional hand-operated power reserve indicator between 10 and 11 numerals.