• DOXA SUB 200 Dune Sand on the Dial Sea on the Caseback
  • DOXA SUB 200 Dune

    Sand on the Dial Sea on the Caseback

    Hourstriker Staff
    Words by: Hourstriker Staff
    August 25, 2025
  • DOXA has introduced a new limited edition model that draws its inspiration directly from the natural landscapes of the Caribbean. In a continued partnership with the retailer Art of Time, the brand has unveiled the SUB 200 Dune, a timepiece that marries Swiss diving watch heritage with the specific environmental palette of sand and sea. This release follows a previous successful collaboration and further solidifies the connection between the historic watchmaker and the vibrant culture of the islands. Limited to only 100 individually numbered pieces, the SUB 200 Dune is a focused and thematic interpretation of one of the brand's cornerstone models.

    The foundation for a watch like the SUB 200 Dune was laid over a century ago. DOXA's story begins in 1889 in the heart of Swiss watchmaking, Le Locle. From its inception, the brand established a reputation for producing robust and reliable timepieces. While it manufactured a variety of watches over the decades, its most defining chapter began in the 1960s with a dedicated push into the world of professional and recreational diving, a field that was rapidly gaining popularity. This strategic pivot would come to define the DOXA identity for generations of enthusiasts and professionals.

    Courtesy of DOXA
    Courtesy of DOXA


    It was in 1967 that DOXA made its most significant mark on horological history with the launch of the first DOXA SUB, a dive watch designed for the general public but built to professional specifications. This was not merely another water-resistant watch; it was a purpose-built tool. It featured a major innovation in the form of a unidirectional rotating bezel that incorporated the US Navy's no-decompression dive table data. This allowed divers to calculate and monitor their dive times with greater safety and ease, a critical advancement for underwater exploration.

    Alongside this functional innovation, the original SUB introduced a visual signature that became inseparable from the brand: a bright orange dial. At a time when black and white dials were the unquestioned standard for tool watches, DOXA’s research concluded that orange offered the best visibility at depth in the varied conditions a diver might encounter. This bold choice was rooted in practicality and became an iconic piece of design language, making the DOXA SUB instantly recognizable from across a room or under the waves. This commitment to function-first design continues to inform all their modern creations.

    The exclusive nature of the SUB 200 Dune is made possible through DOXA's partnership with Art of Time. Established in 1979, Art of Time is a family-owned luxury watch and jewelry retailer located in Philipsburg, St. Maarten. Over more than four decades, it has cultivated a reputation as a premier destination for horological enthusiasts in the Caribbean. Its standing is built not just on its curated selection of high-end brands but also on a foundation of exceptional customer service and deep product knowledge, offered within a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere.

    Courtesy of DOXA
    Courtesy of DOXA


    This partnership is more than a simple retail arrangement; it represents a shared vision. For DOXA, collaborating with a respected, locally-rooted partner like Art of Time provides an authentic connection to the very region that inspires a watch like the Dune. For Art of Time, it offers its clientele a unique and highly exclusive product that speaks directly to the environment they live in and visit. This synergy allows for the creation of a watch that feels genuinely tied to a specific place, a tribute to the island landscape where golden sands meet the deep blue sea. The success of their previous collaboration, the SUB 200 Azure, paved the way for this new, earth-toned edition.

    The conceptual core of the SUB 200 Dune is a direct translation of the Caribbean environment into a tangible object. The name itself evokes images of windswept beaches and the soft, warm textures of the shoreline. This model is designed to be a tale of two elements: the sand of the land and the water of the ocean. The watch physically separates these two inspirations, dedicating the top-facing dial to the former and the caseback, which rests against the skin, to the latter. This thoughtful design choice creates a narrative that unfolds as one handles and inspects the timepiece.

    Visually, the most immediate and defining feature of the SUB 200 Dune is its dial. Instead of a typical smooth or sunburst finish, the dial is treated with a fine, sand-grain texture. This granular surface masterfully captures the look and feel of a sun-drenched dune. The color is a complex and shifting shade that moves between a sun-bleached taupe in direct light and a warmer, more saturated bronze in the shadows. This dynamic quality gives the dial a sense of life and depth, preventing it from ever appearing flat or static. The texture interacts with light in a way that is constantly changing, much like sand on a beach throughout the day.

    Legibility, a cornerstone of any DOXA diver, is not sacrificed for this aesthetic. The applied hour markers are large and geometric, filled generously with Super-LumiNova luminous material for excellent low-light visibility. These markers, along with the distinctive handset, are sharply outlined in black, creating a high-contrast presentation against the lighter, textured background. The classic DOXA block-style hour hand and sword-shaped minute hand are present, ensuring that a quick glance is all that is needed to read the time. A neatly framed date window sits at the 3 o’clock position, providing daily utility without disrupting the overall balance of the dial.

    Courtesy of DOXA
    Courtesy of DOXA


    Surrounding the dial is a unidirectional rotating bezel, a critical safety feature for any modern dive watch. The bezel on the SUB 200 Dune features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal insert, presented in a deep, glossy black. This provides a strong visual frame for the sandy dial. The dive time scale, marked from 0 to 60, is rendered in a warm, off-white tone that complements the dial's color palette, with key markers also treated with Super-LumiNova. The bezel's unidirectional, 120-click rotation is firm and precise, ensuring that it can only be accidentally turned in a direction that would shorten, rather than dangerously extend, a recorded dive time.

    The watch is housed in a robust 316L stainless steel case that measures a versatile 42.00mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug distance of 46.00mm and a thickness of 13.80mm. These dimensions give the watch a solid, modern presence on the wrist while remaining wearable for a wide range of wrist sizes. The case architecture displays a sophisticated mix of finishing, with fine brushing on the top surfaces of the lugs and a high polish along the case sides and chamfered edges. This interplay of finishes allows the watch to catch the light from different angles, highlighting its classic skin-diver-inspired shape.

    Protecting the unique dial is a highly domed, "box-style" sapphire crystal. This feature is a nod to the acrylic crystals used on vintage dive watches from the mid-20th century, but it offers the superior scratch resistance and clarity of modern sapphire. The pronounced curvature of the crystal creates pleasing visual distortions at the edge of the dial, adding to the watch's character. Water resistance is rated at a substantial 200 meters (20 ATM or 656 feet), a capability ensured by a screw-down crown and a solid, screw-down caseback, making it more than suitable for recreational diving and any water-based activities.

    While the dial is dedicated to the sand, the caseback is where the sea comes to life. In a first for the DOXA brand, the solid steel screw-down caseback features a detailed laser engraving of a map of the Caribbean islands. The landmasses are rendered in a frosted finish, but the true innovation is in the depiction of the ocean. Using a specialized technique of laser-induced oxidation, the sea is finished in a permanent and vivid deep blue. This process creates color by altering the surface of the steel itself, ensuring it will not fade or chip over time. This spectacular detail completes the watch's narrative, creating a private piece of art for the owner that ties the entire concept together.

    Courtesy of DOXA
    Courtesy of DOXA


    Each caseback is also individually numbered to signify its place within the strict 100-piece limited edition run, a detail that underscores its exclusivity. The engraving clearly states "SPECIAL EDITION" and confirms the watch's technical specifications, such as its sapphire crystal and 20 ATM water resistance. This level of detail on a part of the watch that is typically unseen when worn demonstrates a commitment to creating a complete and cohesive product from every angle.

    Powering the SUB 200 Dune is the reliable and well-regarded Sellita SW200 Swiss-made automatic movement. This mechanical, self-winding caliber is a workhorse in the Swiss watch industry, known for its durability, accuracy, and ease of service. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), which translates to a smooth, sweeping motion of the seconds hand. The movement contains 25 jewels to reduce friction on critical components and provides a power reserve of approximately 38 hours when fully wound. DOXA applies its own decorations to the movement, adding a touch of brand-specific finishing.

    Versatility is a key aspect of the SUB 200 Dune package. The watch is delivered with two distinct strap options to suit different occasions and environments. The primary option is a stainless steel "beads-of-rice" bracelet. This style of bracelet, characterized by its small, polished central links flanked by larger brushed links, is renowned for its exceptional comfort and flexibility. It drapes around the wrist smoothly and features a folding clasp with an integrated dive suit extension, allowing it to be easily adjusted to fit over a wetsuit.

    Courtesy of DOXA
    Courtesy of DOXA


    For a more casual or sporty look, an additional black FKM rubber strap is included in the set. This high-quality rubber is soft, durable, and completely waterproof, making it an ideal choice for swimming or diving. It is fitted with a standard stainless steel pin buckle signed with the DOXA logo. The inclusion of both the elegant steel bracelet and the practical rubber strap means the owner is equipped for nearly any situation, from a dinner out to an afternoon on the water.

    The DOXA SUB 200 Dune is available exclusively through Art of Time in St. Maarten. As a limited edition of only 100 pieces worldwide, its availability is extremely scarce. The retail price for this special edition package, including both the stainless steel bracelet and the additional rubber strap, is set at $2,090 USD. This pricing positions the watch competitively within the market for Swiss-made automatic dive watches, especially considering its unique dial, innovative caseback, and limited production run.

    Case: Stainless steel; Diameter 42.00 mm x 46.00 mm; Height 13.80 mm; Water resistance 20 ATM / 200 meters / 656 feet; Screw-down crown; Stainless steel screw-down case back with engraved Caribbean map and blue laser oxidation finish.

    Movement: Swiss mechanical self-winding Sellita SW200; Approximately 38-hour power reserve; Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 25 jewels; DOXA decorations.

    Dial: Textured sand-grain finish in warm taupe/bronze; Indexes and hands with Super-LumiNova; Indications for hours, minutes, seconds, and date at 3 o’clock.

    Strap: Stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet with folding clasp and dive suit extension; Additional black rubber strap with pin buckle included.

    Price: USD 2,090

    Notes: Limited edition of only 100 numbered pieces. Features a unique sand-grain textured dial. The caseback is a first for DOXA, with a laser-engraved map of the Caribbean where the sea is colored blue using laser-induced oxidation.
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