Czapek Promenade Diamond Drops

Czapek & Cie, a name resurrected from the annals of 19th-century horology, continues to carve its unique niche in the contemporary watchmaking landscape. The original François Czapek, a Polish watchmaker in Geneva and one-time partner of Antoine Norbert de Patek (before Patek Philippe & Co. was formed), was renowned for his exquisite craftsmanship. Today, the revived Czapek & Cie upholds this spirit of innovation and artistry, blending historical inspiration with modern mechanical prowess, a philosophy particularly evident in their evolving collections.



The Promenade collection by Czapek & Cie serves as a canvas for artistic expression, harmonizing stylistic pursuits with the brand's commitment to mechanical excellence. It's a line that encourages a journey into new aesthetic territories, and the Diamond Drops model is a prime example of this explorative spirit. This timepiece isn't just about telling time; it's about showcasing a particular vision of beauty, realized through meticulous craftsmanship and a deep appreciation for the wonders of the natural world, translated into horological art.



The Czapek Promenade Diamond Drops emerges as a brilliant evolution of the earlier Gouttes d’Eau model. The Gouttes d’Eau masterfully captured the visual poetry of a water droplet landing on a still pond, with concentric ripples expanding across the dial. The Diamond Drops takes this foundational concept and propels it into a realm of heightened brilliance and intricate gem-setting, reimagining the aquatic inspiration with a cascade of precious stones. The design philosophy stems from observing water in its myriad forms – the dance of light on its surface, the sparkle of morning dew, or the crystalline structure of ice and snow.



Visually, the dial of the Promenade Diamond Drops is conceived as an unbroken expanse of scintillating light. The off-centered small seconds sub-dial, positioned at the 4:30 mark, acts as the conceptual point of impact, from which the "ripples" of gemstones appear to emanate. This arrangement creates a dynamic asymmetry, drawing the eye across a surface that mimics the organic spread of light and texture found in nature. The blued hands offer a subtle contrast, ensuring legibility amidst the brilliance, their slender forms sweeping over a field of carefully set jewels that speak of frozen moments of liquid beauty.



Central to the allure of the Diamond Drops is the masterful execution of the snow-setting technique on its 18K white gold dial base. This demanding craft was entrusted to Czapek’s esteemed partner, AB Products. Unlike traditional pavé setting, which often involves uniformly sized stones in neat rows, snow-setting requires the artisan to select diamonds and sapphires of varying dimensions, many less than half a millimeter in diameter. These are then meticulously placed into individually hollowed-out wells in the dial, fitting together like a microscopic, glittering jigsaw puzzle, ensuring that very little of the underlying metal is visible.



The challenge of snow-setting is compounded by the necessity for the watch dial to remain exceptionally thin and perfectly flat. Each gemstone, therefore, must be measured with extreme precision, and the depth of its corresponding well adjusted to its exact size. This ensures that the final surface is completely flush, creating a seamless tapestry of sparkle. The combination of diamonds with sapphires in various shades of blue adds another layer of complexity, as the gem-setter must work with stones of different hardness while achieving a naturalistic and harmonious blend of colors that evoke the intended aquatic theme.



The dial alone is a testament to extraordinary patience and skill, featuring an astonishing 360 diamonds, weighing approximately 1.5 carats, and 319 sapphires, contributing an additional 1.58 carats. The meticulous setting of these 679 stones requires a full six days of intensely focused labor by a master gem-setter. This dedication to detail transforms the dial into a miniature masterpiece, a shimmering tableau that captures the essence of light interacting with water.



The brilliance of the Diamond Drops extends beyond the dial. The bezel, flange, and crown are also lavishly adorned with gemstones, requiring an additional two days of dedicated work. These components are set with a total of 173 diamonds, amounting to approximately 1.63 carats. This comprehensive gem-setting ensures that the watch sparkles from every angle, creating a cohesive and utterly captivating aesthetic that fully embodies the "Diamond Drops" name.



The case of the Promenade Diamond Drops is crafted from 18k white gold, providing a luminous frame for the spectacular dial. It measures a refined 38mm in diameter, with a height of 10.8mm, making it a suitably proportioned canvas for such intricate artistry. The lug-to-lug distance is 42mm, ensuring a comfortable fit on the wrist. A sapphire crystal glass-box, treated with an anti-reflective coating, protects the dial, while a sapphire case back, also with an anti-reflective treatment on its inner side, offers a view of the intricate mechanics within.



Despite its jeweled exterior, the Promenade Diamond Drops maintains a practical level of resilience with a water resistance of 5 atmospheres (approximately 50 meters). This ensures the watch is protected from everyday encounters with moisture, allowing its beauty to be enjoyed without undue concern for its delicate components, striking a balance between ornate design and functional wearability.



At the heart of the Promenade Diamond Drops beats the Calibre SXH5.1, an evolution of Czapek's first entirely in-house conceived automatic movement, the SXH5. The original SXH5, introduced in May 2020, marked a significant milestone for the Maison, representing its capacity for independent watchmaking from a blank slate. Every component was developed with meticulous attention to detail in collaboration with premier Swiss manufacturing partners and artisans.



For the Promenade collection, and specifically for the Diamond Drops, Czapek’s engineers subtly re-architected the SXH5 to create the SXH5.1. This adaptation was driven purely by aesthetic considerations, a testament to the brand’s "Beauty above all" philosophy. The small seconds mechanism was repositioned to be directly beneath and on the same axis as its display on the dial at 4:30, allowing for the signature off-centered sub-dial that defines the Promenade's unique visual identity and accommodates the expansive gem-set ripple effect.



The architecture of the Calibre SXH5.1 is immediately recognizable, distinguished by six finely wrought skeletonized bridges that secure the gear train. This design cue is inspired by the elegant aesthetics of 19th-century pocket watches crafted by François Czapek himself. The movement also features an off-center micro-rotor, a deliberate choice to provide an unobstructed, plunging view into the intricate mechanism and its exceptional structural beauty, allowing admirers to appreciate the depth and complexity of the caliber.



The finishing of the SXH5.1 movement is executed to haute horlogerie standards. The plates and bridges showcase meticulous bevelling, straight-grained sides, and the particularly challenging hand-chamfered inward angles. Further embellishments include open ratchets and sandblasted black bridges, which create a striking contrast and highlight the sophisticated angling techniques merged with state-of-the-art laser engravings. These details underscore the commitment to exceptional craftsmanship that permeates every aspect of the timepiece.



The technical specifications of the Calibre SXH5.1 include its self-winding nature, a diameter of 30mm (13 lines ), and a slim height of 4.2mm. The movement is comprised of 127 individual parts and incorporates 26 jewels to ensure smooth operation. It utilizes a Swiss lever escapement and features a free-sprung balance wheel with variable inertia, regulated by four gold adjustable weights for the highest level of precision tuning.



This sophisticated movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz, or 28,800 vibrations per hour (VpH), ensuring accurate timekeeping. It delivers a substantial power reserve of 60 hours, drawing energy from a single barrel with a torque of 8 Nmm. This impressive autonomy surpasses that of many high-end sports watches, providing convenience and reliability for the wearer.



The power winding system of the SXH5.1 is driven by a micro-rotor whose mass is crafted from 100% recycled platinum 950. This choice of material and its slightly larger size compared to earlier iterations (which used recycled 18-carat gold) brought a 25% increase in winding power to the movement. This, along with a complete change of ball bearings under the micro-rotor, significantly raised the train efficiency to 90%, enabling the single barrel to be fully wound and consistently deliver the extended power reserve.



Czapek & Cie has demonstrated a commitment to the constant evolution of its Calibre SXH5 since its initial unveiling. Continuous improvements have been implemented to enhance its precision, performance, and aesthetic appeal. These upgrades, including the refined micro-rotor and improved ball bearings, reflect a dedication to pushing the boundaries of their in-house capabilities and ensuring that their movements remain at the forefront of mechanical excellence.



Complementing the visual splendor of the case and dial, the Promenade Diamond Drops is presented on a refined sapphire blue Nubuck leather strap. This choice underscores the Maison’s philosophy that every detail counts in fine watchmaking. The luxurious texture and rich color of the strap provide a perfect counterpoint to the brilliance of the white gold and gemstones, ensuring the watch is as comfortable to wear as it is stunning to behold.



The blued hands, a classic touch in watchmaking, glide over the diamond and sapphire-encrusted dial. Their color offers a subtle yet distinct contrast, enhancing legibility against the dazzling backdrop. This careful consideration of even the smallest elements ensures that functionality is not sacrificed for beauty, but rather integrated harmoniously within the overall design.



The Czapek Promenade Diamond Drops is a highly exclusive offering, presented as a limited edition of only 10 pieces. Each watch will be made to order, allowing for a personalized acquisition experience. The retail price is set at 82,000 CHF, before taxes. This exquisite timepiece is available through Czapek’s official retailers worldwide, the Czapek boutique in Geneva, and via the company's official website, Czapek.com, making it accessible to discerning collectors across the globe who appreciate its unique blend of artistry and mechanical ingenuity.



Case: 18k white gold, 38mm diameter, 10.8mm height, 42mm lug to lug. Bezel & crown set with 173 round-cut diamonds (~1.63 carats). Sapphire crystal glass-box with anti-reflective treatment. Sapphire case back with anti-reflective treatment on the inner side. Water resistance: 5 atm.

Movement: Caliber SXH5.1, Czapek's in-house self-winding mechanical movement. Small seconds. Diameter: 30 mm – 13 lines . Height: 4.2 mm. Number of parts: 127. Jewels: 26. Swiss lever escapement, variable-inertia balance fitted with four gold inertia-blocks. Frequency: 4 Hz – 28800 VpH. Power winding system: micro-rotor with a recycled platinum mass. Power-reserve: 60 hours on a single barrel. Barrel torque: 8 Nmm. Finishes: Open ratchets, sandblasted black bridges, bevelling, straight-grained sides, six hand-chamfered inward angles.

Dial: 18k white gold snow-set dial. Adorned with 679 round-cut diamonds & sapphires (~3.08 carats total; 360 diamonds ~1.5 cts, 319 sapphires ~1.58 cts). Blued hands. Off-centred small seconds sub-dial at 4:30.

Strap: Nubuck leather strap in blue.

Price: 82,000 CHF (before taxes).

Notes: Limited Edition of 10 pieces, made to order. The dial's snow-setting with diamonds and sapphires takes six days of work, with an additional two days for setting the bezel, flange, and crown. The design is inspired by the ripple effect of a water drop.