In the sphere of independent watchmaking, Czapek & Cie has carved a distinct path since its modern revival in 2015. The brand's philosophy hinges on a compelling dialogue between historical watchmaking arts and a decidedly contemporary design language. This approach is not about recreating the past, but about reinterpreting its most demanding crafts for a modern audience. The latest expression of this ethos is the Antarctique Plique-à-Jour Polar Blue, a timepiece that brings a centuries-old decorative art, typically reserved for precious objets d’art, into the robust context of an integrated steel sports watch. It serves as a luminous testament to the brand's first decade of renewed activity, showcasing both technical prowess and a deep respect for artisanal heritage.
The Czapek name itself is steeped in horological history, originally co-founded by François Czapek and Antoine Norbert de Patek in 1839 before the two parted ways. The modern iteration of Czapek & Cie, resurrected through a unique crowdfunding model, has built its identity on transparency, collaboration, and a willingness to explore complex watchmaking. This spirit is embodied in the Antarctique collection, which since its introduction, has become the brand’s flagship platform for innovation. It represents Czapek’s vision of a modern luxury sports watch, combining sophisticated mechanics with a versatile, go-anywhere design. The Plique-à-Jour is the second of four special editions planned to commemorate the company's tenth anniversary, following the Antarctique Tourbillon and further cementing the collection's importance.
Courtesy of Czapek
At the heart of this new release is its extraordinary dial, a mosaic of vibrant blue and turquoise hues that immediately captures the eye. It is a spectacle of light and color, crafted using the ancient and exceedingly difficult technique of plique-à-jour enamel. The name, which translates from French as "letting in daylight," perfectly describes the effect. Unlike traditional enameling where the material is fused onto a solid metal base, plique-à-jour involves filling open metal cells with enamel powders and firing them without any backing. The result is a translucent, stained-glass window in miniature, allowing light to pass directly through, illuminating the colors from within and creating a dynamic visual experience that changes with every angle and lighting condition.
The history of plique-à-jour dates back to the Byzantine Empire around the 6th century AD. Its complexity means that today, only a handful of workshops worldwide possess the necessary skills to execute it successfully. The process is fraught with challenges at every stage. Formulating the enamel powders to achieve the precise desired transparency and color after firing at temperatures around 900°C requires immense expertise. Each individual cell of the dial's framework must be filled meticulously to create a harmonious gradient of color, a task demanding incredible patience and a steady hand. The firing process itself is perilous; the enamel can easily crack or warp under the intense heat, rendering the entire dial useless.
For the Antarctique, this ancient technique is applied to an 18-karat white gold framework, creating a captivating pattern of irregular, interconnected cells. The dial exhibits a beautiful color gradient, transitioning from a deep, oceanic blue at the top to a lighter, more aquatic turquoise towards the bottom. This subtle shift in tone adds another layer of complexity to an already demanding process. The transparency achieved is remarkable, allowing glimpses of the skeletonized movement components churning away just beneath the surface. This creates a direct visual link between the artistic craft of the dial and the mechanical engineering of the caliber, a fusion of art and science that defines the watch.
Courtesy of Czapek
Achieving such a specialized result required a network of collaborative partners, a hallmark of Czapek’s operational strategy. The intricate metal structure of the dial was created by MD’Art, a specialist in high-end watch components. The crucial task of applying and firing the enamel was entrusted to the master artisans at Bagues-Masriera. Following the perilous firing stages, the delicate process of polishing and adjusting the thickness of the enamel to achieve perfect clarity without causing fractures was handled by PBMC. The final steps, including the pad-printed brand name and the attachment of the dial feet, were then completed back at MD’Art. This continuous exchange between Czapek and its partners underscores the collective effort needed to bring such an ambitious project to fruition.
Beneath this stunning enamel work beats the Calibre SXH7, an in-house, self-winding mechanical movement that is a work of art in its own right. As an evolution of the brand’s foundational SXH5 caliber, the SXH7 was specifically designed to be skeletonized, a decision that introduced a host of technical hurdles. The engineering team had to completely reverse the escapement's orientation and entirely rework the crown mechanism, which is now visible. A small seconds display was ingeniously integrated at the 4:30 position, utilizing a sapphire crystal ring to maintain maximum transparency and allow an uninterrupted view into the movement's depths.
The architecture of the SXH7 is a key part of the watch's appeal. The movement is fully open-worked, with sandblasted rhodium-plated bridges creating a modern, matte-gray landscape. This finish provides a striking contrast to the intricate mechanics and the vibrant dial above it. The design reveals the open-worked barrel, the gear train, and the variable-inertia balance wheel, creating a three-dimensional mechanical ballet. The movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz, or 28,800 vibrations per hour, and offers a substantial power reserve of 60 hours from a single barrel. Winding is handled efficiently by a micro-rotor made from 100% recycled platinum, a detail that speaks to both technical refinement and modern sensibilities.
Courtesy of Czapek
The level of finishing on the Calibre SXH7 is exceptional and stands up to close scrutiny through the sapphire case back. The bridges feature hand-chamfered and beveled edges, with straight-graining on their sides. The mainplate is also hand-beveled, and the movement boasts an impressive 18 internal, or inward, angles. These sharp, inward-pointing corners are a true hallmark of high-end finishing, as they can only be properly executed by hand with a file and cannot be replicated by machine. This meticulous attention to detail elevates the movement from a simple timekeeping engine to a piece of mechanical sculpture.
The movement is housed within the signature Antarctique case, crafted from stainless steel and measuring a contemporary 40.5mm in diameter. The case design is a study in contrasts, with sharp, athletic lines softened by fluid ergonomics. The surfaces are finished with a fine vertical brushing, which is contrasted by brightly polished chamfers along the edges of the case and bezel. This interplay of finishes allows the watch to catch and reflect light in a captivating way. With a height of just 10.6mm and a water resistance of 120 meters, aided by a screwed-down crown, the watch is both slim enough for formal wear and robust enough for daily activities.
A defining feature of the Antarctique collection is its integrated stainless steel bracelet. The design is both comfortable and visually distinct, with links that mesh together to form a highly polished, C-shaped motif at their center, a subtle nod to the Czapek name. The outer surfaces of the links are brushed to match the case, creating a seamless flow from the watch head to the clasp. For this new edition, the bracelet has been updated with a micro-adjustment system, allowing the wearer to make small, precise adjustments to the length for a perfect fit. This focus on ergonomics ensures the watch feels balanced and secure on the wrist.
Czapek also emphasizes versatility by including an additional strap and their exclusive "Easy Release" system. This allows the owner to swap from the steel bracelet to a strap in moments, without the need for tools. A variety of straps are available, including rubber options with a "Stairway to Eternity" pattern that echoes the dial textures of other Antarctique models, and a selection of calf leather straps. This feature encourages personalization and allows the watch to adapt to different occasions, from a swim in the ocean to a formal evening event.
Courtesy of Czapek
Visually, the watch presents a cohesive and striking package. The cool tones of the brushed steel case and bracelet provide a perfect frame for the fiery brilliance of the Polar Blue dial. On the wrist, the watch has a commanding presence without being overly large. The way light filters through the enamel and illuminates the skeletonized movement below is truly unique. The sword-shaped hands are generously lumed for legibility, and the small seconds hand sweeps smoothly over its sapphire track, a subtle and constant reminder of the mechanical heart beating within.
The dial's cellular structure, rendered in polished white gold, contrasts beautifully with the soft, flowing colors of the enamel. This framework provides definition and structure to the design, preventing the gradient of blues from becoming amorphous. It feels organic, almost like the crystalline patterns of ice or the intricate veining of a leaf. The placement of the Czapek Genève logo at 12 o'clock and the small seconds at 4:30 are balanced, maintaining the dial's artistic integrity without sacrificing functionality.
Turning the watch over reveals the full expanse of the SXH7 caliber through a sapphire exhibition case back. The platinum micro-rotor, engraved on both sides, oscillates with the wearer’s movement, winding the mainspring. The view allows one to appreciate the depth of the skeletonization and the meticulous finishing applied to every component. The case back is engraved with the Czapek anniversary logo, marking its status as a special commemorative edition.
Courtesy of Czapek
The Antarctique Plique-à-Jour Polar Blue is a powerful statement about the capabilities and vision of the revived Czapek & Cie. It demonstrates that traditional, centuries-old crafts are not relics to be confined to museums, but living arts that can be pushed in new directions. By applying such a delicate and demanding technique to a modern sports watch, the brand challenges conventions and creates something genuinely new and exciting. It’s a synthesis of fragility and strength, tradition and modernity.
The Czapek Antarctique Plique-à-Jour Polar Blue is being produced as a strictly limited edition of only ten pieces. This extreme rarity, combined with the difficulty of its production, ensures its exclusivity. The watch will be unveiled to the public at the WatchTime New York 2025 event. The official price is set at 61,200 Swiss Francs, before the application of taxes. For a select few collectors, it represents an opportunity to acquire a piece that masterfully bridges the gap between ancient decorative art and contemporary mechanical watchmaking.
Case: 40.5mm stainless steel case with a height of 10.6mm. Features a sapphire crystal glass-box with anti-reflective treatment, a sapphire case back, and a screwed-down crown. Water resistance is rated at 120 meters.
Movement: Czapek's in-house Calibre SXH7, a self-winding mechanical skeletonized movement. Contains 25 jewels, 152 parts, and beats at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 VpH). Features a micro-rotor made from recycled platinum and offers a 60-hour power reserve.
Dial: 18K white gold dial with a gradient of blue grand feu plique-à-jour enamel. Features luminescent, steel, sword-shaped hands and a small seconds display at 4:30.
Strap: Integrated stainless steel bracelet with Czapek's "Easy Release" system and a micro-adjustment device. An additional rubber strap is also included.
Price: 61,200 CHF (before taxes).
Notes: A limited edition of only 10 pieces created to mark the tenth anniversary of the brand's revival. The dial is created using the highly demanding plique-à-jour enameling technique, which dates back to the 6th century.