Christopher Ward The Green Fifteen

Christopher Ward has announced a collaborative iteration of its C60 Trident Lumière, developed in partnership with Adrian Barker, the founder of the horological media platform Bark & Jack. Titled the C60 Trident Lumière Green Fifteen x B&J, this release modifies the established Lumière architecture with functional adjustments aimed at enhancing legibility in low-light environments. The model operates on a time-limited sales window rather than a strict numerical limitation, with order books closing on February 12th. This release marks Barker’s first official watch collaboration, utilizing the C60 platform to integrate specific design cues referenced from military diving history and personal provenance.

The fundamental premise of the "Green Fifteen" centers on the hierarchy of information required during a dive descent. While standard diving watches often employ uniform luminescence across the bezel, this variant isolates the first 15 minutes of the track with green Super-LumiNova, contrasting against the remainder of the dial and handset. This design choice prioritizes the tracking of the initial ascent or decompression stops, a critical phase in saturation diving. The watch retains the professional specifications of the standard C60 Trident Lumière, including a helium escape valve and a chronometer-certified movement, while introducing material updates to the bezel insert and dial markers that distinguish it from the core collection.

The Case and Dial

The chassis of the Green Fifteen is machined from Grade 2 titanium, a material selected for its high strength-to-weight ratio and resistance to corrosion in saline environments. Grade 2 titanium differs from the alloyed Grade 5 variant often seen in luxury horology; it is commercially pure titanium, resulting in a darker, more industrial grey tone that lacks the ability to take a mirror polish but offers superior resistance to oxidation. The case utilizes Christopher Ward’s proprietary "Light-catcher" profile, a complex geometric design intended to minimize visual bulk through a series of brushed and polished facets. Despite the 300-meter water resistance rating, the case measures only 10.75mm in height, a dimension achieved through the integration of a slimmer movement and precise case engineering. The lug-to-lug distance spans 47.90mm, maintaining a footprint that accommodates a wide range of wrist circumferences while ensuring the watch head remains centered.

Integrated into the side of the case is a helium escape valve (HEV). This mechanism is a requisite feature for saturation diving, where divers exist in a pressurized environment breathing a helium-oxygen gas mixture. Helium atoms, being significantly smaller than oxygen or nitrogen molecules, can permeate the gaskets of a watch over prolonged exposure. During the decompression phase, if this trapped gas cannot escape at a rate equal to the external pressure drop, the internal pressure can force the crystal off the watch. The HEV allows this gas to vent automatically, preserving the structural integrity of the timepiece. While the vast majority of owners will not engage in saturation diving, the inclusion of the valve certifies the watch as a professional-grade instrument capable of withstanding the most extreme sub-aquatic pressures.

The bezel assembly features a unidirectional rotating mechanism fitted with a matte black ceramic insert. Ceramic offers a significant advantage over anodized aluminum inserts used in vintage divers, as it is virtually impervious to scratching and UV fading, ensuring the bezel markings remain legible over decades of use. The markings themselves draw inspiration from the "Milsub" diving watches issued to British military forces in the 1970s, characterized by full minute graduations around the entire circumference of the bezel rather than just the first 15 or 20 minutes. This allows for precise timing of events up to a full hour. On this specific reference, the first 15 minutes are filled with green Super-LumiNova, while the remaining markings rely on standard contrast. The dial surface is finished in a matte black with a granular texture, designed to absorb incident light and eliminate reflections that could obscure the hands.

Legibility is further enhanced through the application of Globolight markers. Unlike traditional luminous plots, which consist of liquid paint applied to a surface, Globolight is a ceramic-based composite infused with Super-LumiNova. This allows the indices to be molded into solid, three-dimensional shapes that emit light from all exposed angles, significantly increasing the volume of luminous material and, consequently, the brightness and duration of the glow. The handset follows a strict color-coding protocol: the minute hand—the primary tool for a diver—glows green to match the bezel’s critical 15-minute sector, while the hour and seconds hands emit a blue glow. This chromatic differentiation allows the wearer to instantly distinguish the minute hand in total darkness, reducing the cognitive load required to read the time under stress. A hidden detail, invisible in natural light, is the Bark & Jack logo applied to the dial; this feature is printed in UV-reactive material and is only revealed when exposed to ultraviolet light, such as that provided by the included rechargeable UV torch.

The Movement

Powering the C60 Trident Lumière Green Fifteen is the Sellita SW300-1 COSC. This automatic caliber is a high-grade Swiss movement widely regarded as a direct competitor to the ETA 2892-A2. The SW300-1 is notable for its slender profile, measuring just 3.6mm in thickness—a full millimeter thinner than the ubiquitous SW200-1. This reduction in movement height is the primary factor enabling the watch’s overall case thickness of 10.75mm. Within the context of a 300-meter diver, such slenderness is technically impressive, as thicker cases are typically required to withstand the crushing pressures of deep water. The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz), providing a smooth sweep of the seconds hand and a high degree of escapement stability.

The movement fitted to this model is a Certified Chronometer, having passed the rigorous testing protocols of the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). To achieve this certification, the uncased movement is tested for 15 days, in five positions, at three different temperatures. The daily average rate deviation must fall within the strict boundary of -4 to +6 seconds per day. This level of regulation ensures that the watch performs with high precision regardless of the wearer’s activity level or the position of the wrist. Additionally, the SW300-1 offers a power reserve of approximately 56 hours. This "weekend-proof" capacity allows the user to remove the watch on Friday evening and retrieve it on Monday morning without the mainspring fully unwinding, a significant functional improvement over older 38-hour standard movements.

Mechanically, the SW300-1 features a ball-bearing rotor for automatic winding, driving a mainspring within a Nivarox balance spring system. The movement contains 25 jewels to reduce friction at critical pivot points. The use of the SW300-1 over the SW200-1 also implies a higher level of finishing and tighter component tolerances, reducing wear over time. While the movement is hidden behind a solid caseback, the specifications indicate a focus on reliability and serviceability. The solid caseback itself is engraved with a custom pattern derived from the texture of a pocket knife belonging to Adrian Barker’s grandfather, adding a layer of tactile detail that serves as a nod to the collaborator’s personal history without disrupting the clean aesthetic of the watch face.

The Strap and Bracelet

The timepiece is supplied with two distinct attachment options, emphasizing versatility in both aquatic and casual settings. The primary mount is the Christopher Ward Bader bracelet, constructed from the same Grade 2 titanium as the case. This ensures a uniform grey tonality across the entire watch. The bracelet utilizes a three-link architecture, a classic design that balances flexibility with lateral stability. Titanium’s low density makes this bracelet significantly lighter than a stainless steel equivalent, enhancing comfort for prolonged wear. The clasp features a micro-adjustment mechanism, allowing the wearer to fine-tune the fit in small increments without the use of tools—a necessary feature for accommodating the expansion and contraction of the wrist during temperature fluctuations or physical exertion.

Complementing the titanium bracelet is a bespoke Bark & Jack strap included in the package. This strap employs a hybrid construction method, featuring a textile upper bonded to a rubber lining. This design offers the aesthetic texture of a fabric strap while mitigating the issues of moisture retention and odor associated with pure nylon straps. The rubber lining acts as a barrier against sweat and water, prolonging the lifespan of the strap and improving grip against the skin. The hardware on this strap is also rendered in titanium to match the case, maintaining the lightweight philosophy of the release. The inclusion of quick-release spring bars on both the bracelet and the strap allows for rapid changeovers without the risk of lug scratches often caused by traditional spring bar tools.

Pricing and Availability

The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Green Fifteen x B&J is priced at $2,995.00. This price point positions it in a competitive segment of the market, offering chronometer-certified performance and titanium construction at a tier below entry-level luxury divers from heritage Swiss brands. The pricing reflects the inclusion of the upgraded movement, the proprietary Globolight technology, and the additional strap and accessories.

Unlike traditional limited editions capped at a specific production number, this model follows a time-limited sales strategy. The order window remains open until 5:00 PM GMT on February 12th. Production quantities will effectively be determined by the number of orders received during this period. This approach allows all interested parties to secure a unit without the immediate pressure of a sell-out, while still maintaining the exclusivity of a single production run. Deliveries are expected to follow the standard manufacturing lead times associated with Christopher Ward’s pre-order models.

Technical Specifications

Case: 41mm diameter, 10.75mm height, 47.90mm lug-to-lug, Grade 2 Titanium, "Light-catcher" profile, helium release valve.

Movement: Sellita SW300-1 COSC, Automatic, 28,800 vph (4Hz), 56-hour power reserve, 25 jewels, Chronometer certified (-4/+6 sec/day).

Dial: Matte black sandblasted finish, Globolight® ceramic applied indexes, green emission minute hand (X1 GL C1), blue emission hour/seconds hands (X1 BL C1), hidden UV-reactive logo.

Strap: Grade 2 Titanium Bader bracelet with micro-adjust clasp AND Bark & Jack hybrid rubber/fabric strap with titanium hardware. 22mm lug width.

Price: $2,995.00 USD

Reference Number: C60-41C3H31T0KK1-B0W

Notes: Water resistant to 30 ATM (300m). Features a unidirectional ceramic bezel with green Super-LumiNova for the first 15 minutes. Includes UV torch.