Chopard is marking a significant milestone with the introduction of the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition. This new timepiece, presented in a limited run, serves as a testament to the brand's profound dedication to the highest echelons of watchmaking, as championed by the Fleurier Quality Foundation. It is a piece that encapsulates the essential principles of the L.U.C collection: superior technical execution, refined aesthetics, and an unwavering commitment to the most rigorous certification processes in the industry. This anniversary model is not merely a look back; it is a reaffirmation of the standards Chopard helped establish two decades ago.
The journey of the L.U.C collection is a story of revival and ambition. In the mid-1990s, the Swiss watch industry was still finding its footing after the disruptive quartz crisis. It was during this period that Chopard Co-President, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, embarked on a mission to honor the legacy of the company's founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard. He envisioned a dedicated workshop capable of producing in-house movements of exceptional quality. This vision led to the establishment of Chopard Manufacture and, in 1997, the birth of the first L.U.C timepiece, powered by the L.U.C 96.01-L calibre, a groundbreaking automatic micro-rotor movement that set the stage for all that would follow.
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Over the subsequent quarter-century, Chopard Manufacture has evolved into a formidable force in Haute Horlogerie. The workshops have been responsible for a wide array of movements, encompassing nearly every major horological complication. This relentless pursuit of innovation is evidenced by the twenty-two patents registered by the manufacture. This foundation of technical prowess is the bedrock upon which every L.U.C watch is built, ensuring that each piece is not only aesthetically pleasing but also mechanically sophisticated and robust.
At the core of this anniversary edition is the celebration of the Qualité Fleurier certification, arguably the most demanding and holistic standard in Swiss watchmaking. The history of this label began over twenty years ago, born from a unique collaboration. Four independent manufactures rooted in the town of Fleurier—Chopard, Bovet, Parmigiani Fleurier, and Vaucher—joined forces. With support from local and federal authorities, they established the Fleurier Quality Foundation in 2001. Their shared objective was to create an unimpeachable, independent certification that would test finished timepieces against the most stringent criteria of craftsmanship, performance, and durability.
The Qualité Fleurier process is exhaustive. It is not a single test but a gauntlet of five distinct trials. First, the movement must achieve COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certification, a well-respected benchmark for precision. Second, the entire cased watch undergoes the formidable Chronofiable testing protocol. This involves three weeks of simulated aging, including exposure to extreme temperatures, humidity, magnetic fields, and numerous impacts, all designed to assess the watch's long-term reliability.
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Third, the aesthetic quality of the finishing is meticulously examined. Every component of the movement, even those hidden from view, must be decorated to an exceptional standard, including techniques like Côtes de Genève, circular-graining, bevelling, and mirror-polishing. Fourth, and perhaps most uniquely, the assembled watch is subjected to the Fleuritest simulator. This machine, developed specifically for the certification, simulates a full 24 hours of wear, cycling through calm, active, and even sports-related phases. To pass, the watch's daily rate variation must remain within a tight tolerance of 0 to +5 seconds. Finally, the watch must be 100% manufactured in Switzerland. Chopard's continued presence as the only founding member still on the label's steering committee underscores its deep commitment to upholding these unparalleled standards of excellence.
The L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition is presented in a 39 mm case constructed from ethical 18-carat yellow gold. Its proportions and design cues are deliberately drawn from the inaugural L.U.C Qualité Fleurier model from 2005, which itself found inspiration in a vintage Chopard piece from the 1950s. The case exhibits a beautiful interplay of finishes, with the top surfaces and caseback being highly polished, creating a striking contrast with the vertically satin-brushed case flanks. This thoughtful detailing gives the watch a dynamic visual character.
The form of the case is defined by its harmonious curves and finely sculpted welded lugs, which provide a seamless transition from the case to the strap. The crown, also crafted from ethical 18-carat yellow gold, measures 6 mm and is adorned with the classic L.U.C logo. Functionally, the case is rated for water resistance up to 50 metres, offering a degree of practicality for daily wear. A glare-proofed sapphire crystal protects the dial, while a second sapphire crystal on the exhibition caseback invites inspection of the beautifully finished movement within.
The dial of this anniversary piece is a masterclass in balanced design, employing a two-tone, sector-type layout. This style, which first gained prominence with the Art Deco movement, is known for its clarity and geometric structure. The base of the dial is gilded brass, which provides a warm, rich foundation. The central portion features a sunburst satin-brushed finish, emanating from the pinion of the hands and catching the light in a captivating display.
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Surrounding this is a chapter ring finished with a circular satin brush and rendered in a deep brown, providing a distinct and legible frame for the time-telling elements. The small seconds, positioned at 6 o’clock, resides in a slightly recessed sub-dial with a snailed, or concentric, pattern that adds another layer of texture. The use of brown transfers for the markings maintains the dial's warm, cohesive color palette.
The hands and markers are executed with precision. The hour and minute hands are gilded and take on the iconic "syringe" shape, a characteristic feature of early L.U.C Qualité Fleurier models. The applied hour-markers are also gilded, and both the hands and markers are treated with Super-LumiNova to ensure readability in low-light conditions. The small seconds is indicated by a simple, gilded baton-type hand, maintaining the dial's clean aesthetic. Underneath the brand name, the "CHRONOMETER" inscription proudly notes the movement's COSC certification, a prerequisite for the more extensive Qualité Fleurier testing.
Powering the timepiece is the L.U.C Calibre 96.09-L, a self-winding mechanical movement whose architecture is derived from the seminal L.U.C 96.01-L calibre that launched the collection in 1996. One of the most remarkable attributes of this movement is its slimness; it measures a mere 3.30 mm in thickness. This slender profile is achieved in part through the use of a micro-rotor for winding, which is integrated into the plane of the bridges rather than being layered on top. This micro-rotor is crafted from ethical 22-carat gold and is intricately engraved, making it a visual highlight.
The movement operates at a modern frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), which contributes to its precision and stability. It is built with 172 components and contains 29 jewels to reduce friction at critical points. A key feature is the Chopard Twin technology, a system of two stacked barrels that work in series to provide a generous power reserve of approximately 65 hours. This allows the watch to continue running accurately for nearly three days off the wrist.
As required by the Qualité Fleurier criteria, the decoration of the L.U.C 96.09-L is executed to the highest standards. The bridges are adorned with the classic Côtes de Genève pattern, while the mainplate features fine circular-graining. These traditional decorations, along with meticulous bevelling and polishing of other components, contribute to the movement's overall quality and its successful passage through the rigorous certification process.
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The watch is secured to the wrist with a strap that complements its vintage-inspired aesthetic. It is fashioned from a soft brown calfskin, chosen for its comfort and durability. The strap is distinguished by hand-sewn topstitching in an ecru, or off-white, color, a detail that enhances its classic character and provides a visual link to the warm tones of the case and dial.
This strap is fastened with a traditional pin buckle. In keeping with the rest of the timepiece, the buckle is crafted from solid 18-carat ethical yellow gold, ensuring a cohesive and high-quality feel throughout. This combination of a supple leather strap and a precious metal buckle provides a wearing experience that is both comfortable and secure.
The 20th Anniversary Edition joins a very exclusive family of timepieces. Chopard Manufacture has deliberately produced L.U.C Qualité Fleurier models in small, limited series, reinforcing their rarity and desirability. The lineage began with the first model in 2005. Over the years, other notable examples have included the L.U.C Tech Qualité Fleurier from 2009, which featured a more openworked dial to showcase the movement's mechanics.
In 2014, the L.U.C Tourbillon QF Fairmined was a landmark release, being the first watch ever to be made from "Fairmined" certified ethical gold. The L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined followed in 2017, presenting a bold asymmetrical design with its crown unconventionally placed at 4 o'clock. More recently, the 2024 L.U.C Qualité Fleurier in Lucent Steel marked the first time the prestigious certification was awarded to a watch cased in Chopard's exclusive and highly durable steel alloy.
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The philosophy of the L.U.C collection is a direct reflection of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele's personal vision and commitment. It is a collection dedicated to the purest expression of watchmaking excellence. Every aspect of an L.U.C watch, from initial conception and development to production, assembly, decoration, and final certification, is handled in-house within Chopard's facilities in Fleurier and Geneva.
The Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition, with reference number 161992-0001, is a strictly limited and numbered offering. Only 20 pieces will be made available worldwide, a number that speaks to its exclusivity. This rarefied timepiece is priced at $32,300.
Case: Ethical 18-carat yellow gold, 39 mm diameter, 8.92 mm thickness. Polished and satin-brushed finishes, glare-proofed sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback. Water resistance 50 metres.
Movement: L.U.C 96.09-L self-winding mechanical movement with an ethical 22-carat gold micro-rotor. 65-hour power reserve with Chopard Twin technology, 4 Hz (28,800 vph) frequency, 29 jewels. Certified chronometer (COSC) and Qualité Fleurier (QF) certified.
Dial: Gilded brass-based sector dial with sunburst satin-brushed center and circular satin-finished brown chapter ring. Snailed small seconds at 6 o'clock. Gilded syringe-shaped hands and applied hour-markers enhanced with Super-LumiNova®.
Strap: Brown calfskin with beige topstitching. Pin buckle in ethical 18-carat yellow gold.
Price: $32,300
Reference Number: 161992-0001
Notes: This is a numbered limited edition of 20 pieces celebrating the 20th anniversary of the Qualité Fleurier certification. The timepiece undergoes rigorous testing including COSC, Chronofiable, and the Fleuritest to achieve its QF label.