Chopard presents a significant new timepiece, the L.U.C Heritage EHG Moon 122, referencing Ref. Number 161988-5001. This introduction coincides with a major milestone: the 200th anniversary of the esteemed Geneva School of Watchmaking (Ecole d'Horlogerie de Genève, or EHG). Produced in a strictly limited run of just 20 pieces, the watch serves as a testament to Chopard's manufacturing capabilities and its dedication to the craft, realized in ethical 18-carat rose gold.
The story of Chopard's high-end watchmaking division, L.U.C, has its roots in the challenging landscape of the mid-1990s. As the Swiss watch industry worked to regain its footing after the quartz crisis fundamentally altered the market, Chopard's Co-President, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, envisioned a return to the company's foundational principles. He established a dedicated workshop focused on creating an in-house movement, a tribute to the brand's founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard.
Courtesy of Chopard
This initiative culminated in the L.U.C 96.01-L calibre. This automatic movement, distinguished by its efficient micro-rotor winding system, was remarkably advanced and versatile for its time. Its successful development signaled the rebirth of
Chopard Manufacture as a producer of its own high-quality movements and marked the official launch of the L.U.C collection, positioned as the pinnacle of Chopard's horological offerings.
Since the inception of the L.U.C workshops over a quarter-century ago, Chopard Manufacture has cultivated extensive expertise in movement design and production. This internal capability has allowed the brand to develop a wide array of movements, encompassing nearly the full spectrum of horological complications known today. This dedication to technical advancement is underscored by the registration of twenty-two distinct patents related to their movement innovations.
The L.U.C Heritage EHG Moon 122 directly celebrates the bicentennial of the Geneva School of Watchmaking in 2024. Chopard's relationship with the EHG is not new; the brand has partnered with the institution since 2004, actively supporting its mission to preserve and transmit watchmaking knowledge to new generations. The 'EHG' designation within the watch's name explicitly honors this enduring collaboration.
Chopard's commitment extends beyond symbolic gestures. For more than two decades, the company has provided a specially developed 'school-calibre', the L.U.C 06.01-L, to a dozen final-year EHG students annually. This movement, which served as the inspiration for the later L.U.C 63.01-L, is supplied as a kit containing both finished and partially finished components. This approach allows students hands-on experience in perfecting decoration, assembly, and regulation techniques as a core part of their curriculum and graduation project.
As a further development tied to the EHG's 200th anniversary, Chopard and the school jointly decided to incorporate the sophisticated astronomical moonphase module into the base calibre. This enhanced movement will be utilized by students pursuing an additional year of study to qualify as specialized watch repair technicians, offering them experience with higher complications early in their training.
Courtesy of Chopard
The industry has recognized Chopard's sustained efforts in nurturing talent. The company received the “Best Training Company Prize” in the “Technical Centre” category in 2024, adding to a previous win in the “Applied Arts” category back in 2008. These accolades highlight a deep-seated philosophy within the company regarding the importance of education.
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele articulates this view clearly: “The history of our family is the cornerstone of Chopard, laid by artisans and passed down from generation to generation. This expertise is precious. Training is the only way to guarantee the continuity of these ancestral watchmaking and jewellery arts. Without passing on know-how, the future of these professions dedicated to beauty is not assured.” This perspective frames the L.U.C Heritage EHG Moon 122 not just as a product, but as part of a larger commitment to the future of watchmaking.
The design philosophy behind the L.U.C Heritage EHG Moon 122 draws inspiration directly from Chopard's historical archives. The 'Heritage' moniker signifies that the case architecture, particularly its rounded profile, echoes the hunter-style cases of pocket watches crafted by Louis-Ulysse Chopard in the 19th century. This creates a bridge between the brand's origins and its contemporary technical abilities.
Crafted from ethical 18-carat rose gold, the substantial 44mm case presents a sophisticated blend of finishes. The case middle features a vertical satin-brushed texture, providing a subtle contrast to the mirror-polished surfaces of the bezel and the case-back. The lugs, rather than being integrated into the case band, are distinctly welded and polished, a stylistic nod to the construction methods of early wristwatches. This specific detail adds a vintage character to the overall form.
Attention to detail extends to the crown, which measures 8mm and is also fashioned from ethical 18-carat rose gold. It is adorned with a prominent L.U.C logo, specifically chosen because it references a historical Chopard emblem, further reinforcing the connection to the brand’s lineage. The case provides a water resistance of 30 meters, suitable for protection against incidental contact with moisture. Its overall thickness is 12.70 mm.
Courtesy of Chopard
The dial of the L.U.C Heritage EHG Moon 122 is a primary visual focal point. It utilizes a disc of
Deep Blue aventurine glass set onto a gold base. Aventurine, with its suspended copper inclusions, naturally scintillates, effectively evoking the appearance of a star-filled night sky. This provides a dramatic backdrop for the watch's indications. White transfers are applied to the aventurine surface, depicting the major constellations visible from the Northern Hemisphere, enhancing the celestial theme.
Positioned prominently at 3 o'clock is the astronomical moonphase display. This is not merely a printed disc; the moon itself is represented by a hand-hammered and engraved indicator crafted from rose gold, set against an aventurine background within the display aperture. This artisanal execution gives the moon a textured, realistic appearance as it cycles through its phases.
Counterbalancing the moonphase at 9 o'clock is the small seconds display. Integrated within this subdial is a miniature, three-dimensional representation of the Earth as viewed from the North Pole. This globe is sculpted from gold, with the oceans rendered in an intense blue lacquer, adding depth and a vibrant splash of color to the dial composition.
The time is indicated by Dauphine fusée style hands for the hours, minutes, and the small seconds hand. This classic hand shape, characterized by its faceted, elongated triangular form, complements the watch's overall aesthetic. All hands are crafted from ethical 18-carat rose gold, matching the case material and providing clear legibility against the dark blue aventurine background.
Powering this timepiece is the new L.U.C Calibre 63.04-L, a manual-winding movement developed and produced entirely within Chopard's workshops. This calibre is presented as a specific variation of the existing manual-winding L.U.C 63.01-L, adapted to incorporate the astronomical moonphase complication for the first time within this movement base.
The standout feature of the L.U.C 63.04-L is its highly accurate astronomical moonphase complication. Unlike typical moonphase displays, which often deviate by a full day every two and a half to three years, this mechanism boasts remarkable precision. It is engineered to require a correction of only one day after 122 years and 45 days of continuous operation. Chopard calculates the deviation between the movement's lunar indication and the actual lunar cycle to be a mere 57 seconds per lunation (the time from one new moon to the next).
Courtesy of Chopard
From a technical standpoint, the L.U.C 63.04-L measures 38.00 mm in diameter and 6.70 mm in thickness. It is constructed using 181 individual components and incorporates 20 jewels to minimize friction. The movement operates at a frequency of 3 Hz, equivalent to 21,600 vibrations per hour (vph), a rate known for contributing to stable chronometry and longevity. When fully wound, it offers a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. A stop-seconds function allows for precise time-setting.
The internal architecture of the movement utilizes nickel silver for its bridges and mainplate. Nickel silver (also known as German silver or Maillechort) is a traditional material in high-end watchmaking, valued for its stability and silvery appearance, which provides an excellent base for decorative finishes. The bridges are adorned with the classic Côtes de Genève striping pattern, a hallmark of fine Swiss watchmaking visible through the exhibition case back.
The quality and precision of the L.U.C Heritage EHG Moon 122 are validated by two significant certifications. Firstly, its timekeeping accuracy is certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), the official Swiss chronometer testing institute. Secondly, the entire watch head (the movement encased within the watch) carries the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal. This hallmark attests not only to the quality, finishing, and origin (Canton of Geneva) of the movement but also extends to the craftsmanship of the watch's exterior components.
The watch is paired with a strap made from blue calfskin, treated to give it a soft, matte nubuck effect that complements the color scheme of the dial. The strap features hand-sewn stitching in a matching blue tone for a refined finish. It secures to the wrist via a folding clasp, also crafted from ethical 18-carat rose gold, ensuring consistency with the case material.
Courtesy of Chopard
A final detail allowing appreciation of the intricate mechanics is the exhibition case back. Fitted with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal window, it offers an unobstructed view of the L.U.C 63.04-L movement, showcasing its finishing, including the Côtes de Genève, and the movement's overall construction. The case back also features special engraving, likely denoting its limited-edition status and connection to the EHG anniversary.
Given its specialized movement, high level of craftsmanship, precious metal construction, and connection to a significant anniversary, the Chopard L.U.C Heritage EHG Moon 122 is positioned as an exclusive offering. Production is strictly limited to 20 numbered pieces worldwide. The reference number is 161988-5001, and the watch is priced at $90,300 USD. This timepiece represents a convergence of Chopard's heritage, its modern manufacturing prowess, and its ongoing commitment to preserving and advancing the art of watchmaking through education.
Case: Ethical 18-carat rose gold; 44 mm diameter; 12.70 mm thickness; 30 metres water resistance; Vertical satin-brushed case middle; Polished bezel and case-back; Welded polished lugs; 8 mm ethical 18k rose gold crown with L.U.C logo; Glare-proofed sapphire crystal; Exhibition back with special engraving.
Movement: L.U.C 63.04-L; Mechanical manual-winding; 38.00 mm diameter; 6.70 mm thickness; 181 components; 20 jewels; 3 Hz (21,600 vph) frequency; Approx. 60 hours power reserve; Nickel silver bridges and mainplate with Côtes de Genève decoration; Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o'clock, astronomical moonphase display at 3 o'clock; Stop-seconds function; COSC-certified chronometer; Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.
Dial: Blue aventurine on gold base; White transfers depicting Northern Hemisphere constellations; Gold and lacquered globe integrated into small seconds subdial at 9 o'clock; Hand-hammered/engraved gold and aventurine moon phase indicator at 3 o'clock; Dauphine fusée hands for hours, minutes, and small seconds in ethical 18-carat rose gold.
Strap: Blue calfskin with nubuck effect; Hand-sewn tone-on-tone stitching; Folding clasp in ethical 18-carat rose gold.
Price: $90,300
Reference Number: 161988-5001
Notes: Limited edition of 20 pieces celebrating the 200th anniversary of the Geneva School of Watchmaking (EHG). Features an astronomical moon phase requiring correction only once every 122 years. Embodies heritage design cues with modern L.U.C craftsmanship.