Chopard L'Heure du Diamant Round

Chopard has expanded its established L'Heure du Diamant collection with a new reference that integrates significant gem-setting capability with a distinct textual approach to metalwork. The new L'Heure du Diamant Round, Reference 10A391-1300, is a 30mm timepiece fabricated from 18-carat ethical white gold, notable for its utilization of the manufacturer’s proprietary "crown setting" technique and a "bark-style" bracelet finish that references jewelry techniques prominent in the 1960s. This release continues the brand's long-standing strategy of merging its two primary manufacturing verticals: high-jewelry fabrication and mechanical watchmaking. Unlike many jewelry-focused timepieces that rely on quartz movements to minimize case thickness and maintenance, this model is powered by the Chopard Calibre 10.01-C, a compact manual-winding movement that maintains horological integrity alongside the gemological focus.

The collection, which translates to "The Hour of the Diamond," serves as a platform for Chopard to demonstrate specific stone-setting methods that differ from standard bead or channel settings found in mass-market luxury watches. The primary objective of this specific reference is to maximize the optical performance of the diamonds surrounding the bezel while introducing a bracelet design that prioritizes tactile complexity over the traditional high-polish finish. By combining a substantial 4.65-carat diamond weight with a mechanical drivetrain and a specialized gold finishing technique, Chopard targets a demographic that demands material value and mechanical provenance without conceding to the simplified production methods often seen in the "jewelry watch" category. The watch commands a retail price of $89,800, positioning it in a high-bracket competition against specialized jewelry pieces from houses like Piaget or Cartier, where the value proposition is weighted heavily toward gem quality and artisanal gold finishing.

The Case and Dial

The case of the Reference 10A391-1300 measures 30mm in diameter with a thickness of 8.40mm. It is constructed from 18-carat "ethical" white gold, a material designation indicating Chopard’s adherence to supply chain transparency regarding the sourcing of its precious metals. The case architecture is defined almost entirely by its bezel, which employs the "crown setting" technique. This method, a signature of the Scheufele family’s jewelry design language, utilizes V-shaped prongs to secure the stones. From a technical perspective, this setting style is functionally distinct from a standard bezel setting where the metal encompasses the girdle of the diamond. In the crown setting, the diamonds are elevated above the casing ring, and the prongs are minimized to expose a greater surface area of the diamond's pavilion and girdle. This structural choice allows light to enter the stones from the side, not just the table, significantly increasing the refraction and light return—or "brilliance"—of the brilliant-cut gems. The total weight of the diamonds on the bezel is approximately 4.65 carats, a substantial figure for a 30mm case, implying the use of relatively large individual stones rather than a pavé of smaller mêlée diamonds.

The dial is executed in textured mother-of-pearl, a material derived from the inner shell layer of specific mollusks (nacre). While standard mother-of-pearl is often utilized for its iridescence, Chopard has applied a texturing process to this dial, creating a cloud-like, non-uniform surface that diffuses light differently than a flat polished wafer would. This texturing serves a practical purpose: it reduces the harsh reflections that can sometimes occur with flat nacre, ensuring that the dial remains legible against the high brilliance of the surrounding diamond bezel. The dial features a minimalist layout with no hour markers or numerals, maintaining the focus on the material itself. Time is indicated by rhodium-plated leaf-shaped hands, which provide a tonal match to the white gold case while offering sufficient contrast against the pearlescent background for readability. The absence of a seconds hand creates a static, calm visual, reinforcing the piece's orientation as a dress watch rather than a precision timing instrument. The dial assembly is protected by a glare-proofed sapphire crystal, ensuring that the refractive qualities of the dial and bezel are not obscured by external reflections.

The Movement

Powering the L'Heure du Diamant Round is the Chopard Calibre 10.01-C, a mechanical manual-winding movement. The inclusion of a manual-wind caliber in a 30mm jewelry watch is a deliberate technical choice. In this segment, manufacturers frequently default to quartz movements to reduce production costs and eliminate the need for the wearer to interact with the crown. However, the use of the 10.01-C signals Chopard's intent to appeal to collectors who prioritize mechanical autonomy. The movement is notably compact, with an overall diameter of 15.70mm and a thickness of just 2.90mm. This dimensional constraint presents specific engineering challenges, particularly regarding the mainspring barrel size and the efficiency of the gear train. Despite its diminutive size, the movement delivers a power reserve of 45 hours, which is sufficient for daily wear but requires regular winding if the watch is rotated out of use for more than two days.

The movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), a standard beat rate that balances precision with component durability. It is constructed from 101 components and utilizes 19 jewels to minimize friction in the wheel train. While the 10.01-C is a time-only caliber, its finishing adheres to the standards expected at this price point. The bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes), and the mainplate likely features circular graining (perlage), although the primary visual focus through the exhibition caseback is the bridge architecture. The use of a sapphire exhibition back on a jewelry watch of this size is relatively uncommon, as many brands opt for a solid gold back to maximize the metal weight or allow for engraving. By exposing the movement, Chopard validates the mechanical nature of the watch, allowing the owner to view the balance wheel and the escapement assembly. The crown, used for both winding and time-setting, is also crafted from 18-carat ethical white gold and is set with a briolette-cut diamond, adding a final coherent detail to the gem-focused exterior.

The Bracelet

One of the most distinguishing features of this reference is the "bark-style" bracelet, crafted from 18-carat ethical white gold. This finishing technique involves intricate engraving on the surface of the gold links to mimic the irregular, organic texture of tree bark. Historically, this finish gained prominence in the 1960s and 1970s, appearing on high-profile models from brands like Rolex and Piaget. Chopard's revival of this finish serves a dual purpose: aesthetic differentiation and tactile ergonomics. Visually, the bark texture absorbs light rather than reflecting it directly like a polished surface, creating a matte, silky appearance that contrasts sharply with the high-gloss brilliance of the diamond bezel. This interplay between the "rough" organic gold texture and the precise geometric light return of the diamonds creates a sophisticated visual hierarchy, preventing the watch from appearing overly flashy despite the high carat count.

Functionally, the bark finish offers practical benefits. High-polish gold bracelets are notorious for attracting fingerprints and showing hairline scratches (micro-abrasions) almost immediately upon handling. The deep, irregular grain of the bark finish effectively masks these signs of wear, ensuring the bracelet maintains its aesthetic integrity over long periods of use. The bracelet is constructed with a suppleness described by the brand as "silky," implying a high degree of articulation between the links. This is critical for a metal bracelet, as it must drape comfortably around the wrist without pinching skin or hair. The bracelet is secured by a deployant buckle in matching 18-carat ethical white gold, providing a seamless closure that maintains the continuity of the bracelet design. The integration of the bracelet into the case lugs appears seamless, suggesting that the watch was designed as a cohesive unit rather than a watch head paired with a generic strap option. This integrated approach is a hallmark of high-jewelry watchmaking, where the bracelet is treated as an extension of the case rather than an accessory.

Pricing and Availability

The Chopard L'Heure du Diamant Round (Reference 10A391-1300) is priced at $89,800 USD. This pricing structure places it squarely in the upper echelon of the jewelry watch market, reflecting the significant material costs associated with 4.65 carats of high-grade diamonds and a full 18-carat gold construction, as well as the labor-intensive nature of the crown setting and the manual bark finishing. The premium also accounts for the use of a proprietary mechanical movement rather than a generic quartz caliber.

Availability of this reference is expected to be limited, primarily due to the specialized labor required for the gem setting and bracelet finishing. It will likely be retailed exclusively through Chopard boutiques and a select network of high-end authorized dealers with access to the brand's high-jewelry inventory. As with many high-jewelry pieces, production numbers are generally lower than standard catalog models, though Chopard has not designated this strictly as a "limited edition" with a fixed production cap. The watch targets a specific client base that values the intersection of traditional goldsmithing, gemology, and mechanical horology, offering a distinct alternative to the more ubiquitous designs found in the luxury sports watch segment.

Technical Specifications

Case: 30mm diameter x 8.40mm thickness; 18-carat ethical white gold; Bezel set with 4.65 carats of brilliant-cut diamonds; Crown set with briolette-cut diamond; Glare-proofed sapphire crystal; Exhibition caseback; Water-resistant to 30 meters.

Movement: Chopard Calibre 10.01-C; Mechanical manual-winding; 15.70mm diameter x 2.90mm thickness; 21,600 vph (3 Hz); 45-hour power reserve; 101 components; 19 jewels; Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève.

Dial: Textured mother-of-pearl; Rhodium-plated leaf-shaped hours and minutes hands; No hour markers.

Strap: Bark-style bracelet in 18-carat ethical white gold; Deployant buckle in 18-carat ethical white gold.

Price: $89,800 USD

Reference Number: 10A391-1300

Notes: Features proprietary "Crown Setting" for bezel diamonds; bark finish inspired by 1960s jewelry techniques; utilizes 100% ethical gold.