Bremont has unveiled the latest iteration of its formidable dive watch series, the Supermarine 500M. This new model represents a significant step forward for the collection, incorporating enhanced materials, a refined design, and a new powerhouse movement, all while staying true to the brand’s mission of creating exceptionally capable tool watches. The release signals a focused effort to elevate the Supermarine line, blending rugged professionalism with intricate new details that speak to a deeper appreciation for the watch's aquatic inspiration. It is a calculated evolution, designed to meet the rigorous demands of professional divers and appeal to enthusiasts who value robust engineering and thoughtful design.
Founded in 2002 by brothers Nick and Giles English, Bremont has carved a distinct identity in the watchmaking landscape, rooted in a passion for aviation, mechanics, and British engineering. The company’s mantra, "Take It Further," is not merely a marketing slogan but a guiding principle that informs every aspect of their watch design and construction. This ethos is materialized at "The Wing," Bremont's state-of-the-art manufacturing facility nestled in the Chiltern valley, where the brand brings its meticulously crafted timepieces to life. Bremont’s collections are purposefully structured around the foundational environments of Air, Land, and Sea, ensuring each watch is purpose-built to excel in its intended domain.
Courtesy of Bremont
The Sea collection, and specifically the Supermarine range, has always been Bremont’s answer to the challenges of the deep. These watches are engineered for individuals who operate in some of the most unforgiving environments on the planet. They are not simply accessories but critical pieces of equipment where reliability is paramount. The development of the new Supermarine 500M is a direct reflection of this commitment. It builds upon the legacy of its predecessors, incorporating feedback and technological advancements to create a timepiece that is more durable, more functional, and more compelling than ever before.
At the heart of the new Supermarine 500M is its formidable case. Now crafted from 904L stainless steel, the watch offers a superior level of corrosion resistance, a crucial attribute for any timepiece intended for prolonged saltwater exposure. This specific grade of steel is notably harder and more resistant to pitting and crevice corrosion than the more commonly used 316L steel, a testament to Bremont's no-compromise approach to material selection. The choice of 904L steel immediately places the Supermarine 500M in a higher tier of dive watch construction, promising enhanced longevity and a lasting finish.
The case architecture itself has undergone a subtle but significant redesign. Measuring 43mm in diameter with a case length of 50mm, it maintains a commanding presence on the wrist, yet the profile has been slimmed down to a depth of 13mm for a more ergonomic fit. This refinement ensures that while the watch is undeniably robust, it remains comfortable for daily wear. The lugs, with a width of 22mm, provide a balanced stance and accommodate a variety of strap options, further enhancing the watch’s versatility.
Beyond its dimensions, the case is fortified with features designed for extreme conditions. Bremont has enhanced the guards surrounding the bezel and the screw-down crown, providing additional protection against accidental impacts that are an inherent risk in diving or any adventurous activity. An automatic helium escape valve (HEV) is seamlessly integrated into the case. This specialized one-way valve is critical for saturation divers, allowing trapped helium molecules to exit the watch during decompression, thereby preventing the sapphire crystal from being dislodged by internal pressure.
Courtesy of Bremont
The Supermarine’s water resistance is, as its name suggests, a headline feature. The watch is rated to 500 meters (50 ATM), a depth that far exceeds the limits of recreational scuba diving and places it firmly in the category of a professional-grade instrument. This impressive rating is secured by the robust case construction, the screw-down crown, and a solid stainless steel screw-in case back. The case back is engraved and decorated, providing a final seal against the immense pressures encountered in the deep ocean.
A key functional element of any true dive watch is its rotating bezel, and the Supermarine 500M excels in this area. It features a unidirectional rotating bezel, which only turns counter-clockwise as a safety measure to prevent accidental extension of a dive time. The bezel itself is made from 904L stainless steel and features a detailed knurled edge, offering excellent grip even when operated with gloved hands. Set within this steel frame is a highly durable black ceramic insert, which is virtually scratch-proof and resistant to fading from UV light, ensuring the timing scale remains crisp and legible for the life of the watch.
The dial of the new Supermarine 500M introduces a captivating and artistic new element to the collection. It features a mesmerizing, 3-dimensional black wave pattern, a design that directly reflects the beauty and power of the ocean's surface. This intricate texture adds a significant layer of visual depth and character to the watch face, shifting its appearance with the changing light. It’s a sophisticated touch that elevates the watch from a pure tool to a piece of wearable art, without compromising its primary function of legibility.
Clarity is paramount in a dive watch, and the dial is designed for instant readability in all conditions. Large, applied indexes are used for the hour markers, each one generously filled with white Super-LumiNova®. This high-performance phosphorescent material provides a powerful and long-lasting blue glow, ensuring the time can be read at a glance in low-light or murky underwater environments. The black dial ring features a precisely printed minutes track, allowing for exact time-setting and measurement.
Courtesy of Bremont
The handset chosen for the Supermarine 500M consists of polished nickel-plated hour, minute, and second hands. Bremont has opted for a classic "sword" style, a design renowned for its use in military tool watches due to its exceptional visibility. Like the indexes, the hands are filled with the same white Super-LumiNova®, creating a cohesive and highly legible display. A discreet date window is positioned at the 3 o'clock mark, adding a practical everyday complication without cluttering the dial.
Protecting this intricate dial is a domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The domed shape adds a touch of vintage character while also enhancing the structural integrity of the watch under pressure. Furthermore, the crystal is treated with an anti-reflective coating, which minimizes glare and significantly improves clarity, making the dial easy to read from any angle, whether under the bright sun or deep beneath the waves.
Driving the Supermarine 500M is the automatic BB64AH movement. This robust and reliable caliber is built to perform, offering a substantial 56-hour power reserve. This extended power reserve means the watch can be taken off for a full two days and will still be running when picked back up, a convenience for those who rotate through several watches. The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour (4Hz), a modern standard that ensures a smooth sweep of the seconds hand and contributes to greater timekeeping accuracy.
The BB64AH movement is constructed with high-quality components chosen for their stability and durability. It features a Glucydur balance wheel, an alloy that is highly resistant to deformation from temperature changes and magnetic fields. This is complemented by an Anachron balance spring and a Nivaflex mainspring, both of which are advanced alloys that provide consistent energy delivery and further enhance the movement’s precision and longevity over time. With 25 jewels reducing friction at key points, the BB64AH is a true workhorse, engineered to provide reliable timekeeping in the most demanding situations.
Courtesy of Bremont
A significant part of the new release is the introduction of Bremont’s newly engineered quick-release Supermarine bracelet. Crafted from matching 904L stainless steel, the bracelet features distinctive barrel-shaped links that alternate between a polished and satin finish, creating a dynamic and refined look. This design, referred to as "infinity links," is not just about aesthetics; it provides exceptional fluidity, allowing the bracelet to conform comfortably to the wrist.
Crucially, the bracelet incorporates a micro-adjustment feature within the clasp. This allows the wearer to make small, precise adjustments to the fit without the need for tools, ensuring a perfect size whether worn directly on the skin or over a wetsuit. The quick-release system further enhances versatility, enabling the wearer to easily swap the bracelet for one of the other available strap options. This combination of advanced engineering and user-friendly features makes the new bracelet a standout component of the overall package.
For those who prefer alternative options, Bremont offers the Supermarine 500M on two other high-performance straps. The first is a chevron-patterned black rubber strap, which is durable, waterproof, and extremely comfortable for active use. The second option is a black and anthracite woven fabric NATO strap, offering a secure and rugged military-inspired look that is both lightweight and breathable. Both the rubber and NATO straps provide distinct styles while upholding the watch's tool-watch identity.
The ergonomic considerations extend to the watch's primary point of interaction: the crown. The oversized crown is designed for easy operation, even when wearing thick diving gloves or in challenging, cold environments. To prevent accidental adjustments to the time or date, which could be critical during a dive, the crown is framed by a newly designed faceted crown guard. This functional detail, combined with the slimmed-down case and fluid bracelet, showcases Bremont's holistic approach to design, where every component is considered in the context of real-world use.
Courtesy of Bremont
Davide Cerrato, Bremont's CEO, summarized the philosophy behind the new model, stating, "The ever-evolving Supermarine collection is a testament to providing divers with reliable timepieces for exploring the depths. With the addition of a subtle yet artistic wave design dial, the Supermarine 500m captures the spirit of the world’s oceans in a robust, high performance and ergonomic dive watch.” His statement underscores the dual focus of the watch: to be a high-performance instrument that also possesses a refined, artistic quality inspired by its natural element.
The new Bremont Supermarine 500M collection is positioned as a premium offering in the competitive dive watch market. The pricing reflects the high-grade materials, advanced engineering, and British assembly. The model on the new 904L stainless steel bracelet is priced at £4,350.00. The versions offered on either the high-performance rubber strap or the woven fabric NATO strap are both available for £4,100.00. This latest evolution of the Supermarine is currently available through Bremont's authorized dealer network and brand boutiques, offering a compelling new option for serious divers and watch aficionados alike.
Case: 904L stainless steel construction; 43mm diameter, 50mm length, 13mm depth, 22mm lug width. Features a black ceramic uni-directional bezel, automatic helium escape valve, and screw-down crown with protector. Domed anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Water resistance rated to 500 metres / 50 ATM.
Movement: Automatic BB64AH Movement; 25 Jewels, 28,800BPH (4Hz), 56-hour power reserve. Components include a Glucydur balance wheel, Anachron balance spring, and Nivaflex mainspring.
Dial: Black 3D wave pattern dial with a date window at 3 o'clock. Features applied indexes and polished nickel-plated sword hands, all infilled with white Super-LumiNova® (Blue emission).
Strap: Available on a 904L steel quick-release Supermarine bracelet with micro-adjustment, a black quick-release rubber strap, or a black and anthracite woven fabric NATO strap.
Price: £4,350.00 (Steel Bracelet), £4,100.00 (Rubber or Fabric Strap).
Reference Number: sm43-dt-ss-bk-b (Bracelet), sm43-dt-ss-bk-r-s (Rubber), sm43-dt-ss-bk-n-s (Fabric).
Notes: The case is crafted from high-grade 904L stainless steel for superior corrosion resistance. The dial features a new, intricate 3D wave pattern. The movement offers an impressive 56-hour power reserve.